LIGHTS AND SHADES 



OF 



MISSIONARY LIFE: 



CONTAINING 



TRAVELS, SKETCHES, INCIDENTS, 



AND 



MISSIONARY EFFORTS, 



DURING 



NINE YEARS SPENT IN THE REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 



BY 



REV. JOHN H. PITEZEL, 

ALIAS, WA-ZAH-WAH-WA-DOONG, OR "THE YELLOW BEARD.' 



"Every matter in the universe is linked in such wise unto others, 
That a deep, full treatise upon one thing might reach to the history of 
all things." Tupper. 



CINCINNATI: 

PRINTED AT THE WESTERN BOOK CONCERN, 
FOR THE AUTHOR. 

K. P. THOMPSON, PRINTER. 
1857. 





Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, 

BY JOHN H. PITEZEL, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District 
of Ohio. 



f^ 



PREFACE. 



Variety is said to be the "spice of life." In 
general this sufficiently marks the devious walks 
of human life to break the spell of monotony. 
But of some stations this is more especially true. 
In such, if not more frequent, it is at least more 
marked. The "ups and downs" differ like hil- 
locks when compared with cragged and steep 
mountains. To some the transition is greater 
from toil to rest, from imminent danger to safety: 
consequently, the thermometer, indicating the de- 
grees of pleasure or distress felt, is subject to rise 
higher or fall lower, proportionately. 

The life of a missionary, in a wild and unculti- 
vated field, is far from being monotonous. He is 
constantly brought into contact with extremes. 

His life is often a checkered scene not all made 

3 



PREFACE. 



up of thorns, not all of clouds and storms. The 
cheerful sunlight often breaks in upon his path. 
Hardship itself imparts a power of endurance not 
a gift of nature, enabling its possessor to frown 
down formidable obstacles. It is often the lot of 
missionaries to wade through the deepest trials 
and experience the greatest consolations. 

The sketches given in the following narrative, 
it is hoped, may not prove entirely uninteresting 
to the indulgent reader. Often it is the case that, 
, in new and unsettled portions of the country, the 
travels and labors of missionaries form an import- 
ant link in its after history. And without these, 
the history of the Church can not be fairly writ- 
ten; and unless the missionary make the record, 
it is not likely to be made by others. Indeed, in 
many instances, none but he can make it. 

Much of the early history of the vast territory 
stretching along Lakes Huron and Superior, and 
extending far into the western wilds, has been 
gleaned from the accounts of Jesuit missionaries. 



PREFACE. 5 

We can not but admire the pains taken by Ma- 
caulay, in his History of England, to describe 
what England was a hundred and fifty years ago, 
compared with what England is now. So when 
we read over the privations and conflicts of the 
early settlers of our own country, we are inspired 
with gratitude at the onward march of improve- 
ment and our own superior advantages. The 
means of conveyance; the different methods of 
travel; the difference between the exposures of 
the wilderness and the comforts of a country where 
the forests have been cleared and towns and cities 
have sprung up, with all the new inventions for 
annihilating distance and labor, weigh not a little 
in the scale. It is certainly not unworthy of note 
whether, in crossing the great deep, we are to be 
conveyed in a bark canoe, an open boat, in filthy 
and uncomfortable schooners, the proud brig, or 
the stately steamer, where ease itself becomes 
painful and luxury begets loathing. Nor is it 
of less interest whether journeys made by land 



6 



PREFACE. 



be performed on foot, with the aid of snow-shoes, 
through a wintery wilderness where the habitation 
of man is seldom seen, where the pedestrian is 
compelled to shoulder his own bed and ne-wah-poo, 
or provisions, and erect his rude shelter of boughs 
for temporary sojourn, or whether the route is the 
beautiful turnpike over which the traveler rolls on 
elliptic springs, finding, at frequent intervals, com- 
modious inns, or flies, in the rail-car, over mount- 
ain and valley. 

In a letter from Rev. D, P. Kidder, D. D., in 
reference to the unpretending work now offered to 
the public, he says : " Indeed, I think it the duty 
of those who can, to furnish the Church with suit- 
able records of their missionary labors, and to per- 
petuate some knowledge of the aboriginal races 
of our continent, now so fast fading away." Such 
has been the aim of the writer, so far as his mate- 
rial and the time he could devote to this work 
would admit. How far he has succeeded is left 
to the good sense and judgment of the reader. 



PREFACE. 7 

Tremblingly hoping that this little volume may 
be acceptable to ministers and members of the 
Methodist Episcopal Church and the reading pub- 
He generally, and that its influence, as far as it 
extends, may tend to promote the great mission- 
ary catise, and thus advance the Redeemer's king- 
dom in the salvation of man, it is now sent forth 
without apology. 

J. H. PlTEZEL. 

Paw Paw, Mick., June 5, 1857. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTEE I. 

Author appointed missionary — A new era — Missionary spirit — Arrive at 
Detroit — John Owen — J. S. Harrison — Geo. W. Brown — Sabbath — 
Steamer Constitution — Accommodations — Lake St. Clair — Scenery — 
Indians — "Wesleyan missionaries — Lake Huron — Reunion — Saginaw 
Bay— Island of Mackinaw — Indian lodges — Indian annuity — "Big Tur- 
tle " — Mr. Balotes — Traders — Whisky — Drunkenness — Results — Mr. 
Stuart — Transparent waters — A Christian Indian family — Rev. Mr. 
Daugherty — Catholicism — Its time-serving policy — Fort Mackinaw — 
Rev. Mr. O'Bryan — Fort Holmes — Sugar Loaf — Arch Rock — The 
Scenery — Poetical impromptu — Preaching — "General Scott" — Garden 
River— Saut Ste. Marie— James Ord, Esq.— Fort Brady— Rev. W. H. 
Brockway Page 21 

CHAPTER II. 

Saut Ste. Marie mission — John Kah-beege — Introduction to the mission — 
Mission-house — Gloomy aspect — Improvement — Site of the mission- 
Scenery — Religious aspect — Indian devotion — First Sabbath — Preach- 
ing — Indian meetings — S. Spates — Family worship — S. Hall — Schools — 
Domestic cares — Roman Catholic Indians — Wedding — Christmas and 
New Year — Baptism — Sunrise scenery — Travels— Nimrod — Scene of 
wigwams — Domestic scene — Indian heathenism — Fishes and Fishing — 
Close of winter — Summer — Visitors — Temptation— Sabbath desecra- 
tion — Notes of Study — Close of the year — Appointment to the Kewa- 
wenon mission 35 

CHAPTEE III. 

Voyage to Kewawenon — Outfit— Embarkation— Rough waters — Grand 
Sable— Pictured Rocks — Grand Island — Dead River — Arrival 61 

9 



10 CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Kewawenon mission — Kewenaw Bay — " L'Anse " — Indian cabins — Prepa- 
rations for winter — Mr. and Mrs. Marksman— Produce from the mission 
garden — Furniture — Schools — Sabbath school— Scarlet fever— Manual 
labor — Religious aspect —Indian membership — Meetings — Encouraging 
tokens— Severity of winter — Providential deliverance Page 72 

CHAPTER V. 

Trip to La Pointe — The canoe — The company — Wind-bound — Coasting — 
James Schoolcraft — Heavy sea — Missionaries of American Board — Their 
mission — Religious exercises — S. Hall— New Testament in Ojibwa — 
Rev. Mr. Wheeler — Schools — Hospitality — Indians from the woods — 
Their condition — Their wretchedness — War-dance and heathen burial — 
Indian burial — The feast — Return — Becalmed — Rock Harbor — Copper 
Harbor — A fix — Dr. Houghton — Bay Degree — Hazardous landing — 
Dreary night — Unsuccessful attempt to re-embark — Sabbath — Arrive at 
the mission 86 

CHAPTER VI. 

Second year — Potato crop — Eagle river — Author dubbed Captain — G. 
Bedell — Backslidings and revivals — "Man's extremity, God's opportu- 
nity" — Christmas eve — Pastoral visiting — David King — Indian notion 
of weeping — Rowdies — Accession to the Church — Fiery trials — Better 
days — Travels — Chief Monomonee — Efforts of a Catholic priest — Outfit 
for traveling — Character of the country — Lodging at night — Carp 
river — Hospitable reception — Snow-shoe lameness — Contrivance for the 
emergency — Indian treatment for the case— W. B.— His misrepresenta- 
tion — Reach home — Handicraft — Making shoes — Fortune seekers — Town 
election — Author attends conference at Marshall 104 

CHAPTER VII. 

Interesting conference — Author reappointed to Kewawenon mission — J. 
W. Holt, assistant — Arrive at the Saut — Schooner Fur Trade) — Fair 
winds and deceitful prospects — Head winds and heavy seas — Imminent 
danger — Panic among the passengers— Uncomfortable condition— Cap- 
tain R. and his crew — Driven back to Fort Brady — Captain B. — Grand 
Island— Mr. W. — His family — Arrival home — Mr. B. — His sudden 
death — Silver mountain — A mine in project — Location a bone of 
contention — Disappointment and loss — The uncertainty of worldly 
riches * 121 



CONTENTS. 11 



CHAPTER VIII. 

First visit among the miners — Reception — Preaching and traveling — Re- 
turning — Bewildered — Wanderings by day — Lodging by night — Fare in 
the wilderness — Impassable swamps — Situation perplexing — Comes to 
Portage river — Is relieved by a boat — Author reaches home after much 
fatigue and suffering — Statistical table — Subsequent visits among the 
miners — State of things at Kewawenon — Conversion of J. T. and wife 
from Popery — Erection of a church — The young Indian, Joshua Soule-^- 
His sad end — Visits of the Superintendent « • Page 131 

CHAPTER IX. 

Michigan annual conference — A change — Difficulties — P. 0. Johnson and 
wife — The new field — The cabin — Wants supplied — Mining — The per j 
petual din — Speculation — "Humbug" — Visitations — The English min< 
ers — German and Irish — Backsliding — Meeting-place — Dancing — Author 
invited to a Christmas ball — Declines the invitation — Four reasons fotf 
declining — Some favorable characteristics among the miners — Congre- 
gational singing ■ 150 

CHAPTER X. 

Eagle river — Origin of the name — The town — The cliff— View from the 
top — Trouble — Soil — Farming — Picturesque scenery — Number of work- 
men at the Cliff Mine — Captain Jennings — L. Hanna — Character of the 
miners — A look into the mine — The stamps — Monthly amount of copper 
mined — The whim — The sheer — Preparations to enter the mine — The 
descent by ladders — The stull, or pent-house — Exceeding richness of the 
mine — Best time for visiting the mine — The various operations of the 
workmen • • 165 

CHAPTER XI. 

Close of the conference year — Conference at Kalamazoo — Delightful Sab- 
bath at sea — Public worship — Author tarries at the Saut daring con- 
ference — New acquaintances — Little Rapids — Favorable religious as- 
pect — Mr. Richmond — Ramsey Crooks — Mrs. Hanna — Rough sea — 
Arrival at Copper Harbor— Author appointed Superintendent of the 
missions in the District — Birth of a son — Arrival of missionaries— Case 
of delirium tremens — Arrival at the Saut — A new home — Reflections — 
Sad end of a drunken Indian — Dreadful influence of rum upon the 
Indians 175 



12 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XII. 

Visit to Garden river — Trips to Naomikong — Cold journey — Reach Carp 
river — Te-quah-me-non — The old squaw — King-hawk — Kah-ba-no- 
den — Interview with him — Return to Naomikong — Waishkees Bay — 
Reach home — Trip during the " crust-moon " — Derivation of the name — 
Nodaway — The Ojibwas — Slaughter of the Nodaway — Indian medicine 
men — Ceremonies of initiation — Precepts binding upon medicine men — 
Caraboo meat — She-gud — Interesting love-feast — An aged widow — Re- 
turn home Page 187 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Summer tour among the missions — Arrive at La Pointe — Preaching 
aboard ship — Schooner exchanged for a canoe — Appropriate Scripture 
reading — Sabbath on sbore — A heavy storm — Reach St. Louis river — 
Fond du Lac mission — Fall of tbe native missionary — Slight progress 
at the mission — Indian council — The chief, Shingobe — Author addresses 
the Indians — Nah-gah-nup replies — Author rejoins — Nah-gah-nup re- 
plies again — The head chief speaks — Discouraging prospect for Sandy 
Lake — Interview with Dr. Norwood — The route — Reach Knife Port- 
age — Grand Rapids — Difficult ascent — Tempest — Musketoes — Arrive at 
Sandy Lake — A conjurer — His maneuvers — Modern spiritualism — 
Council — Sandy Lake mission — Contest between paganism and Chris- 
tianity — Leave Sandy Lake — Sabbath at La Pointe — Arrive at Kewa- 
wenon— Mrs. Barnum — Kewawenon mission — Baptism — Arrive at Eagle 
river — Eagle River mission — Arrival home 200 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Saut de Ste. Marie mission — Little Rapids— J. D. Bingham — P. 0. John- 
son — National fast — Appearance of cholera — Death of Mr. Stevens and 
Captain Hicks — Other deaths — Embark for Detroit — Arrive at Adrian, 
the seat of the conference — Dr. Hinman — An interesting conference — 
Return to Saut Ste. Marie — Missionaries in company 221 



CHAPTER XV. 

Naomikong — A new mission-house — Collecting the materials — Return 
home — A second trip to Naomikong — A third trip — Memorable love- 
feast — Additions to the Church — Mother Waishkee — Remarkable 
Instance of filial affection — Fourth trip — Return — Sermon on the 
occasion of the death of Zachary Taylor, President of the United 
States 227 



CONTENTS. 13 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Trip to Sandy Lake — Mr. Sawyer — Rough sea — Precarious situation — 
Storm ceases — Safe arrival — Fort Wilkins — Grand Portage — Mrs. 
Hughs — East Savan river — No-ko-mis — War-dance — Appearance of the 
savages — Speech of an old chief— Martin Luther's speech — Another 
speech of the chief — His marriage — Baptism of his children — Astonish- 
ment of the wild Indians — Famine — Dreadful suffering — Cannibal- 
ism Page 234 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Return from Sandy Lake — A storm — Reach Grand Portage — Wind- 
bound — Reflections — Reading — Trial of faith necessary — Voyage con- 
tinued — Great boat — Reach LaPointe — Mr. Oaks — Black river— Drunken 
squaw — Land at Iron river — A trying day — Reach Ontonagon — Mrs. 
Douglas — The fatal cup — Fatal results — John South wind — David 
King — Mr. Sheldon — D. D. Brockway — Arrive at the Saut 249 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Condition of the missions — The extreme posts — Kewawenon — Labors 
of Mr. Crane — His success and sorrows — Eagle river — The Saut — Mis- 
sionary news — Condition of Sunday schools — "Angels unawares" — ■ 
John Peterson — Rev. A. Atwood — Liberality of Mr. Peterson — En route 
for conference — Arrive at Detroit — Tiffin City — Great changes — Adrian — ■ 
Albion — Interesting session — Winter supplies — Arrival at the Saut — ■ 
Death of little Henry — Sorrow — Dr. Durbin 264 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Quarterly meeting at Naomikong — Snow — Illness — Improvements — Relig- 
ious prospects — Interesting meeting — Sacrifices — Author takes charge 
of a school — Temperance — Meetings and lectures — Result — Mysterious 
disease— Deaths — Collision on the Lake — Foundering of the Manhat- 
tan — Lives saved 274 

CHAPTER XX. 

Visits among the missions— Entering the St. Louis river — Arrive at Fond 
du Lac — Sandy Lake — Mrs. Spates — Public worship — Sermon to the 
Indians — Behavior of a heathen Indian — Lawlessness — Route home- 
ward — Bad River station — Musketoes and gnats — Rough sea — Ontona- 
gon river — Minnesota Mine — The Monticello — Independence— Manner 



14 



CONTENTS. 



of the Author's spending the day — Kog-wa-on — What he said to the 
missionary — The missionary's reply — Phoenix Mine — Arrival at the 
Saut Page 283 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Impediments to the evangelization of the Indians — Removal of the place 
of payment — Destitute situation of the Indians at Sandy Lake — Sick- 
ness and death — Numerous graves — Destruction of canoes — Distress of 
the Indians — Report of the missions as published — Saut Ste. Marie — 
Naomikong — Waishkees Bay — Kewawenon — Carp river — Sandy Lake 
and Mill Lac — Fond du Lac — Eagle river — Ontonagon 298 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Author commences the labors of another year — Improvements at Naomi- 
kong — Rev. Mr. M'Dougall — S. P. Church — Trip to the Bruce Mine — 
Cordial welcome — Temperance speeches — Preaching — Baptism and the 
Lord's supper — Return home— Trip to Naomikong — Difficult traveling — 
Preaching and awakening 312 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Religious prospect at Saut Ste. Marie — Increased attention and interest — 
Rev. Mr. Porter and Rev. Mr. Bingham — Rev. John Clark — Conversion 
of a lady — Her great joy in God — Author visits her husband and other 
soldiers in the Fort — Some interest — Conversions — A class organized — 
An incident — Interesting meetings — The inebriate — Melancholy cas- 
ualty — Death of a wicked man — His funeral 321 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Author commences a tour of visitation — Steamer Baltimore — Accommo- 
dations — Reading — Contrast — Marquette — Mr. and Mrs. Benson — Mrs, 
Barnum — Kewawenon — Appearance of the mission — Mr. Barnum's mis- 
sionary report — Quarterly meeting — Council— Rev. S. Steele — E. H. 
Day — Visit to various mines — Man killed by falling — Illness — Dr. 
Senter — Reach home — Trip to Carp river — Great change wrought 
around Lake Superior — Return — Providence — Summerfield — National 
discourse 332 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Camp meeting at White Fish Point — Published account — Rev. L. War- 
ner — His preaching — Peter Jones — Description of him— Sallows, 



CONTENTS. 15 

M'Dougall, and Blaker — Indians at the meeting — Their conduct — Mar- 
riage — Missionary meeting — Love-feast and sacrament — Remarks at 
the love-feast — Close of the meeting — Indian christening — Temperance 
meeting — Peter Jones's account of the temperance meeting- -Page 345 

CHAPTEE XXVI. 

Revival at the Saut — Declension — Troops at the Fort ordered to Califor- 
nia — Sergeant M. and family — Remove to Wisconsin — Members left — 
The congregation — Sunday School — Naomikong — Prosperity — Extract 
from the annual report — Deaths — Dying sister — Account of a pagan 
woman — Revival meetings — Statistics — Day school — Sabbath school — 
The children — Value of the mission property — Houses built by the 
Indians — Industrial pursuits among them — Camp meeting — Small-pox 
at the Saut — Kewawenon — Report — Usual prosperity— Indians con- 
verted — Number of members — The schools — Eagle River mission — A 
laborious field — S. Steele — Well sustained — A prosperous year — Mis- 
sionary money raised — German mission — Statistics of Church and Sab- 
bath school — Letter from S. Steele to the author — Ontonagon — E. H. 
Day — His labors encouraged by the people — Sunday school statistics — 
Carp river — Great iron mines — Rev. William Benson — Failure of sup- 
plies — Result — Supplies forwarded — " Old stamp " Methodists — Another 
call for missionary help — Isle Royal — Lumbermen visited — General 
tables of statistics 363 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Communication from Dr. Durbin — Transfer of missions to Wisconsin con- 
ference — Author and family embark for Detroit — Rev. Mr. M'Dougall — 
Touch at Mackinaw — Steamer Atlantic — Reflections on the close of the 
conference year — Arrive at Detroit — Toledo — Cholera — Confined mostly 
to emigrants and the intemperate — Reach Adrian — Pleasant greetings — 
Great changes — Reach Chicago — Arrive at Sheboygan — Fond du Lac — 
The conference — Its appearance — Rev. E. Yocum — W. H. Sampson — 
Dr. Adams — Rev. C. Hobart — Sabbath meetings — Conference love- 
feast — Sermon of Bishop Ames — Its character — Catholic priest — His 
meetings — 'Michigan conference — Pleasant home — Preaching — Bishop 
Scott — Agreeable session — Author appointed to Kalamazoo station — 
Reflections on leaving the mission district — Reach Adrian and Albion — 
Arrive at Kalamazoo — The new charge — Journey to the Saut — Packing 
for removal — Missionaries — Sabbath — Farewell sermon — Rev. James 
Shaw — Last moments in the empty house — Humiliation, joy, and conse- 
cration — Last visit to little Henry's grave — Resignation and hope — 
Homeward bound — Arrive at Kalamazoo 375 



16 CONTENTS. 



OHAPTEK XXVIII. 

Woman— Her part in the missionary work — The Christian lady at an 
Indian mission — New sights, sounds, and influences— Her associates — 
The charm and romance at first — The spell broken — Sympathy with the 
Psalmist — Domestic cares — Burdensome visitations — Training of chil- 
dren — Partnership of the wife in the labors and sufferings of her hus- 
band — Contrast of housewifery at the Protestant and Catholic stations — 
Long absences of the husband — Letter from a missionary's wife to her 
husband — Travels of the female missionary — Hardships incident — Re- 
volting scenes — Letter from Mrs. Spates to Mrs. Pitezel — Desolation and 
famine — Potatoes the principal food — Great moral darkness • • Page 385 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Indian characteristics — His affection for his traditional history — The sad 
coming of the " pale faces " — A superficial glance not sufficient to esti- 
mate properly the Indian — The shades of the wilderness his home — The 
blessings of civilized life absent — The seeming natural inference — The 
Indian's want of opportunity— Fate of such as have resided among 
Indians — Names of renown — Intellectual capacity of such unquestion- 
able — Fine specimens of impassioned eloquence — Speech of Sastarexy 
pending the giving up of Le Pesant — Speech of Logan after all his 
relatives had been murdered — Speech of Black-Hawk after failing to 
effect the deliverance of his people — Indians imitative beings — Skill 
of Indian women — Progress in the various arts of civilization — Indian 
love of liberty and independence — Indian history a history of wars — 
Savage ferocity and cruelty in war — Mr. Frost's testimony on this sub- 
ject — Treachery — Indians seldom aggressors — Degradation of Indian 
women — The term woman a reproach — Gov. Cass and the disgraced 
Indian — Drudgery devolves upon the women — This not compulsory but 
voluntary — Simplicity of their language — Expressive terms — Coat of 
arms — Indian mythology and religion — Extract from Hall's Life of 
Clark — The Great Spirit — Polytheism — Divers divinities— Sacrificial 
offerings — Superstition — The priesthood — Universal deluge — Incarna- 
tion — Idolatrous and polytheistic worship — Signification of Mackinaw— 
Sacred rock in St. Louis river — Ma-ne-bu-zho, of the Ojibwas — Image 
representing this god — Greatest blessings attributed to him — Longfel- 
low's song of Hiawatha 398 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Plea for Indian missions — Skepticism on this subject— Opinion of a gen- 
tleman of learning and talent— Reports of Messrs. Foster and Whitney— 



CONTENTS. 17 

Their disparaging statement of the result of Christian missions— The 
assumption denied as unfounded — Heaven's mandate to be obeyed — 
Result of the Indian wars — Statements of Government officers corrob- 
orate the favorable reports of missionaries — Mr. Tyler's message, 1842 — 
Extract — Argument from the few as yet Christianized — Ratio of con- 
verted Indians to the whole favorable — Results of the Christianizing 
process— Wesleyan missionaries in Canada— Speech of Yellow Head, 
head chief of the Chippewas— Speech of Penaslie, chief at Kewawe- 
non, in reply to Yellow Head— Clear testimony of these speeches touch- 
ing the power of the Gospel upon the Indian— Indians a part of the 
"purchased possession" — Christianity a debtor to the Indian — The 
Indian's choice is between two alternatives : Christian civilization or 
extinction — Encouragement from prophecy • • • Page 41 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Lake Superior region — Its exhaustless wealth — Hitherto mostly un- 
known — Great change — Commerce, mining, and agriculture — Reports 
of Messrs. Foster and "Whitney — Dr. Houghton — His important servi- 
ces — The Jesuit missionaries — Native copper — How regarded by the 
Indians — Alexander Henry — Mining since 1844 — Mining four hundred 
years ago — Samuel 0. Knapp — Extract from Foster and Whitney's 
reports — Proof of high antiquity from the forest trees over the works — 
No traditions of the ancient mines — Lake Superior region not adapted 
to farming purposes — Soil of the south shore — Surprising rapidity of 
vegetation — Products — Fisheries and pineries the principal matters 
of commerce — Saut Ste. Marie canal— Advantages and attractions of the 
Lake Superior region — Romantic scenery — Setting sun — Aurora bore- 
alis — Mirage — Late twilight and early dawn— State of society not fa- 
vorable — Laxity of morals — A proud destiny in the future — Con- 
clusion 422 






LIGHTS AND SHADES 
MISSIONARY LIFE. 



LIGHTS AND SHADES 

OP 

MISSIONARY LIFE 



CHAPTER I. 

APPOINTMENT AS M I S S I N A R Y — V Y A GE 

TO THE SAUT. 

At the Michigan annual conference, held at Ann 
Arbor, August 16, 1843, Rev. W. H. Brockway, 
then superintendent of the Indian missions of Lake 
Superior, applied to me to go as a missionary into 
his district. After prayerfully considering the mat- 
ter, I gave my consent, in case the Bishop should 
assign me such a field. In a free conference with 
Mr. Brockway and Bishop Soule, it was arranged that 
we should take charge of the mission at Saut de Ste. 
Marie. To make the needful preparation, with the 
least possible delay, I left the conference in session, 
and repaired to Adrian, near which was Mrs. P. and 
our only child, then in her third year, at a sister's. 

I had before formed some idea of the ruggedness 

of that northern clime, and of the obstacles in the 

way of missionary effort ; and future experiment 

proved that they were not overrated. No one, who 

21 



22 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

values the priceless blessings of civilized society, can 
consent to part with them without a struggle, and 
delve into such scenes as fill every land of paganism. 
To embark in this enterprise put the faith and reso- 
lution of Mrs. P. to a severe test. Her friends also 
felt as if we were about to be exiled. But sober 
second thought chased away gloomy apprehensions, 
and led to hopeful trust in God. I felt to look upon 
this date as a new era in my life. The missionary 
fire had before been enkindled in my heart, and an 
inward desire to cultivate mission ground; but up 
to this time no door seemed to open to me. I had 
made the language of the poet my own : 

" Should Providence command me to the farthest verge of the green earth, 
To distant harb'rous climes, 

'Tis naught to me, since he is ever present, ever felt, 
In the void waste as in the city full, 
And where he vital breathes there must be joy." 

The language of my heart, as recorded at the time, 
was, "Hitherto the Lord hath helped us, and here 
by his grace will we raise our Ebenezer." 

August 25th we left Adrian, taking with us Mrs. 
P.'s sister, then a girl twelve years of age, for De- 
troit, via Monroe, where we arrived in the evening. 
The next day we were disappointed in the boat which 
was to take us to Detroit. Mr. Goodenough, the 
landlord, kindly furnished us with a good two-horse 
buggy, and sent his son to drive. After a ride of 
forty miles, through heat and dust, we arrived safely 
in Detroit. After the first night, during which we 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 23 

lodged at a tavern, we were kindly cared for under 
the roof of Mr. John Owen, long and widely known 
as a leading citizen of Detroit, and an influential 
member of the Methodist Episcopal Church. 

Sunday morning we heard Rev. J. S. Harrison 
preach his introductory sermon, from Galatians vi, 14. 
In the afternoon Rev. Geo. W. Brown, a missionary 
bound for Kewawenon, Lake Superior, preached. At 
night it was my privilege to speak to a very large 
and attentive audience, on the amazing love of God 
to a lost world, from John iii, 16. To me it was a 
profitable season, and I trust it was not a lost oppor- 
tunity to others. It seemed to me a matter of doubt 
whether I should ever again stand before such an 
intelligent congregation of white people. But this 
was resigned to Him whose I was and whom I served. 
The day throughout was hallowed by the presence 
and blessing of God. 

Tuesday, 29th, after a pleasant stay of three days 
in the city, we were glad to take the steamer Con- 
stitution, bound for Mackinaw. We lay at the dock 
till two o'clock the next morning. Accommodations 
on board were very poor. Wife, daughter, and sister 
found lodgings in the ladies' cabin. I received a 
miserable berth in another part of the boat, and, being 
slightly unwell, much fatigued, and lodged in a sultry 
berth, I rested but little and slept less. In the morn- 
ing we were in the beautiful little Lake St. Clair. 
Our way thence into the St. Clair river and up its 
rapid and pure current into Lake Huron, is too near 



24 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

home, and has been too often described, to need mi- 
nute attention here. It is enough to say that we were 
charmed all the way with the picturesque scenery, 
both on the British and the American shore. Spa- 
cious farms, neat dwellings, smiling villas, and charm- 
ing landscapes stretch along the banks of that majestic 
river. Near Port Sarnia we felt an interest in ob- 
serving a number of Indians sporting on the shore. 
On the rising ground, for a long distance, appeared 
their neat and comfortable-looking cabins, connected 
with well-cultivated fields, affording proof of a near 
approach to civilization. They are under the care 
of British Wesleyan missionaries, who have done a 
great work for the Canada Indians. The mission 
buildings are on a slightly- elevated spot, and look 
tasteful and inviting. We had soon passed Port 
Huron and Fort Gratiot, and were, anon, laying our 
course across the majestic Lake Huron. It was de- 
lightful weather, with scarcely a ruffle on the water. 

We were happy to have, as associates, Rev. George 
W. Brown and his estimable wife, who had but re- 
cently given him her hand and heart, as the com- 
panion of his joys and sorrows in his self-denying 
itinerancy. Brother B. and myself had spent several 
years together, in the same village, when boys. We 
had, for a time, attended a literary institution to- 
gether. When but a youthful exhorter I had been 
permitted to point him to the Lamb of God, and 
invite him to the altar, where our prayers and tears 
were mingled and our hearts made to rejoice at his 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 25 

happy deliverance. Once more we found ourselves 
united in the noblest work to which man was ever 
called — a mission of love and salvation to perishing 
heathen. During this delightful trip the Lake was 
often made to echo the hymns and spiritual songs 
of the little band. What mystery is there in the 
ways of Providence! 

That night we crossed Saginaw Bay. It was suc- 
ceeded by another beautiful day. The sun seemed 
to burst upon the world, from the bosom of the deep, 
like a globe of fire, sending out his golden beams, 
as if to enliven the scenes around us, already wearing 
an aspect of loveliness. We had soon neared the 
land, and swept gracefully by points, islands, and 
landscapes on the American shore, which I shall not 
detain the reader to describe. A little before noon 
we came in full view of the lofty island of Mackinaw, 
about three hundred feet high above the level of the 
Lake. From its summit frowned upon us the im- 
posing battery of the Fort. Situated at its base is 
the village, comprising several hundred inhabitants, 
mostly French, Indian, and half-breeds. As we drew 
near we could see the shore dotted with Indian lodges, 
in the shape of pyramids, looking, in the distance, 
like so many ant heaps. The Indians, three or four 
thousand in number, and about twenty-five chiefs, were 
here to receive their annuity — some of them from a 
distance of two or three hundred miles. They were 
to receive $27,000 that year. Before landing the 
captain kindly coasted along the eastern shore of the 



26 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

island, and pointed out some of its prominent objects, 
among which was the great natural curiosity, called 
Arch Rock. Turning about we glided leisurely into 
the straits, where we landed on the spot famed in 
the history of our country for daring exploits, scenes 
of slaughter and blood. 

Michilimackinac signifies, according to some, "Big 
Turtle," owing to the peculiar shape of the island. 
Mr. Schoolcraft says, " that the present Indian signifi- 
cation of the name of this island is, ' place of the danc- 
ing spirits,' and that the popular etymology, which 
derives this word from < Big Turtle,' dates still farther 
back, and is founded on the fact that the miehi were 
turtle spirits." (Sheldon's Early Hist, of Mich., p. 41.) 

We dined at a tavern, and as we were to be de- 
tained for several days before we could go to the 
Saut, after some pains, we found quarters under the 
roof of a Mr. Balotes, a member of the Baptist 
Church. The place was so thronged with strangers 
that comfortable lodging, at a public house, was out 
of the question. We could not have desired kinder 
attention than we found with this pleasant family. 

The afternoon was spent in strolling among the 
Indian wigwams, and seeing them receive their pay 
and spend it among the traders, who thronged the 
place, and were ready to grab the Indian's money 
as soon as it came into his hands, by fair or foul 
means. It was a little surprising to us to find cher- 
ries and currants, in their prime, the last of August. 

Among our excursions brother B. and myself vis- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 27 

ited the mission establishment, once under the care 
of the Presbyterian Church, but now abandoned. It 
is a spacious building, and was once thronged with 
native and half-breed children and youth, there edu- 
cated at vast expense. Little of the fruit of this 
self-sacrificing labor is thought now to be apparent. 
But it may be seen, in the revelations of eternity, 
that here was a necessary and very important link 
in the chain of events, connected with the Christian- 
ization of benighted pagans. 

September 1. This morning I took a walk along the 
shore of the straits about a mile, where I saw scenes 
of woe and wretchedness. Some of the worse than 
heathen whites, French, and half-breeds, bad been 
furnishing the Indians with whisky, and cheating 
them out of their money. The direst effects of 
drunkenness were witnessed among them. Some 
were raving and fighting, some singing, some danc- 
ing, or running and whooping, while in some of the 
lodges were men, women, and children, rolling and 
tossing, and making hideous noises or doleful moan- 
ings. What a very pandemonium was here seen — all 
the work of whisky ! My soul sickened at this sight 
of woe. I was grieved to see such a mass, susceptible 
of high intelligence, debased below the level of the 
brute. Fearful, thought I, will be the final reckoning 
of the instigators of all this crime and misery, when 
the Judge of all the earth shall make inquisition for 
blood. The agent, Mr. Stuart of Detroit, took a 
noble stand in favor of temperance, and exerted a 



28 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

great influence among the Indians. But his utmost 
vigilance was insufficient to prevent the ravages of 
this destroyer. Bad as was the case here described, 
I was told that there was then much less drunkenness 
than was common at such times. Here is revealed 
to us an almost omnipresent obstacle to missionary 
success. It is but justice to say, that among the 
traders were several honorable exceptions to such as 
have been just mentioned. 

The missionaries and their families, accompanied 
by brother Patterson and wife, from Detroit, took a 
ride on the straits, in a sail-boat. We sailed up and 
down the channel and into the verge of Lake Michi- 
gan. We had never before seen any thing to equal 
the transparency of those waters. The bottom, at a 
depth of twenty or thirty feet, was perfectly visible. 
The stones and pebbles are white lime, which makes 
them perceptible at greater depth than otherwise. 
We passed over to the opposite island, and then re- 
turned, singing as we crossed the channel, 

" From Greenland's icy mountains," etc. 

We felt our spirits refreshed and the missionary fire 
re-enkindled. 

September 2. This morning brother Brown and 
myself visited a family of Christian Indians, from 
Saut Ste. Marie, A fire was burning in the center of 
the lodge and something cooking in a kettle. The 
ground around was covered with green branches of 
white cedar. On these were spread some neat mats 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 29 

of their own make. Opposite the door were two 
painted wooden trunks, which served as seats for 
visitors. Their blankets and bedding were carefully 
stowed away in the sides of the wigwam. They ap- 
peared glad to see us. 

We sung one of their favorite hymns — 

" Jesus my all to heaven is gone," 

such as could singing in the Ojibwa, and then prayed. 
Here were the visible fruits of our mission at the 
Saut. Contrast the scene presented here with that 
above. Let an infidel world judge between the phi- 
lanthropic efforts of the Church to elevate the red 
man, and the avaricious and misanthropic endeavors 
of wicked men to build up their own fortunes by 
exterminating the tribes of the wilderness. 

We here formed the acquaintance of Rev. Mr. 
Daugherty, a Presbyterian missionary, a pious and 
worthy man from Grand Traverse, who accompanied 
his Indians and had his tent among them. He was 
here to preserve his sheep from the destroyer. 

We here found an influence which is deadly against 
the spread of a pure Christianity — it is Catholicism. 
The settlers are mostly Catholic. There was here a 
Catholic mission and a priest on the spot, with his fol- 
lowers. They wear the cross and count their beads, 
but are kept in ignorance of the Bible. This system 
of worship is fascinating to the Indians, for the very 
reason that its rites and ceremonies are mostly exter- 
nal, and require little exercise of the mind and heart. 



30 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

The ever- changing nature of the pretended infallible 
Church, Jesuit-like, becomes a perfect time-server, 
and has a dexterity to show the side or put on the 
face which suits best, and so wins the favor of the 
Indians. That afternoon we visited Fort Mackinaw, 
and without enumerating the objects of interest which 
we here saw, we thought it difficult to imagine how 
any thing could be kept in a more neat and orderly 
manner. Rev. Mr. O'Brian, of the Episcopal Church, 
was chaplain. After conducting our wives back to 
their lodgings, brother Brown and myself reascended 
the hights of the island, and took a fatiguing though 
romantic stroll to see some of its wonders. We 
went first to Old Fort Holmes, which at different times 
had been in possession of the British and Americans. 
This is situated on the highest part of the island. 
There are still large excavations remaining. Two 
posts and a beam of the gateway were standing, on 
which many have aspired to immortality by carving 
their names. Except in one or two narrow places, 
we could see water all around the island, nine miles 
in circumference. We next went to see what is 
called Sugar Loaf, a huge rock, which, in shape, 
resembles a sugar loaf. Thence we followed a cir- 
cuitous trail to the eastern extremity of the island, to 
take a more accurate view of Arch Rock. Advancing 
toward the arch we came first to a fearful precipice, 
suddenly breaking off, perhaps, a hundred and fifty 
or more feet to the bottom. Before us was the mag- 
nificent arch, extending across this chasm, which 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 31 

opened to the east on Lake Huron. A path to the 
right led us along the brink to the arch itself. We 
removed our boots from our feet — went on the arch to 
the center, the loftiest spot. In reaching this we must 
cross one place where the rock was not much over a 
foot wide — its summit is about three feet in width. 
The other side of the arch is in no part much over a 
foot wide. There were growing on the narrow part 
some small twigs of cedar. On this lofty spot we 
stood for some time, filled with wonder at the august 
exhibition around us. In the rear, and on each hand, 
the lofty eminence was clothed with trees and shrub- 
bery — maple, birch, poplar, cedar, and balsam, giving 
to the landscape richness and variety. Before us 
were the majestic waters of Lake Huron, dotted with 
three little islands, in full view, called St. Martin's 
Islands. Is it wonderful that we should have felt 
like invoking the spirit of the muses, or that, if pos- 
sessed of a whit of the ideal faculty, it should have 
sought embodiment in poetic measure ? Here is given 
the substance of an impromptu sketched on the occa- 
sion; but please do not be hypercritical, kind reader, 
as you trace these lines : 

Lo ! on a rock I stand, 

Arch'd by the hand of God ; 
Beneath, the surges lash the strand, 

Terrific, at His nod ! 

Above, the tempest low'rs, 

Around, the waters sweep, 
And distant islands tell the pow'r 

That placed them in the deep. 



32 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

How mighty is the hand 

Which, from old chaos wild, 
Heav'd up the rocks and fram'd the land, 

And form'd both seas and isles I 

If great the hand which made, 

How wise the mind which plann'd 
Creation, in her various grades, 

From matter up to man ! 

This God is our Great Rock, 

Our Hight, when torrents sweep, 
Our Covert from the tempest's shock, 

Our Firm Foundation deep. 

We returned from this excursion feasted in mind, if 
hungry and fatigued in body. 

Sabbath, at half-past ten o'clock, A. M., we had 
the pleasure of hearing Rev. Mr. Daugherty preach, 
through his interpreter, to the Indians, who collected 
in the old Presbyterian church. His text was, "I 
counsel thee to buy of me gold tried in the fire," etc. 
Both the text and sermon were well adapted to the 
occasion. It fell to my lot to address the white con- 
gregation in the afternoon. At night brother Brown 
preached a very good, practical sermon to the Indians. 
It was refreshing to us in this land of comparative 
heathendom, for ministers and members of different 
persuasions, but all belonging, as we trust, to the 
true Church, to blend our hearts and our devotions 
together. 

September 4. We left Mackinaw at eight o'clock, 
A. M., in the steamer General Scott, thence to the 
Detour, a distance of forty-five miles. The lake was 
quite rough. We now entered the mouth of the Ste. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 33 

Mary's river, and were ascending her majestic waters, 
in the midst of her thousand islands, sprinkled around 
us like dew-drops glittering in the sunlight. We 
swept by the dilapidated fortification on St. Joseph's 
Island, and several beautiful landscape scenes among 
the mountains to the north. Now we had reached 
the Indian settlement on the Canada shore, at a place 
called by the Indians Ke-te-gon See-beh ; that is, 
Garden River. Soon before us rose up, in grandeur, 
the Falls of the St. Mary's. On our left was the 
Methodist mission. The shore on each side was lined 
with dwellings of the French and half-breeds up to 
the Falls. Here was seen, on the Canada side, the 
Hudson Bay Company's Fort. On the American 
shore, directly opposite, was the village of Saut Ste. 
Marie and Fort Brady.* But the most attractive 
spot, on the river, was that of the Indian Agency, 
occupied by James Ord, Esq., about half a mile east 
of the Fort. This was once an elegant building, but 
had become worse for the wear. It stands a little 
back from the river, on high ground, surrounded by 
a spacious inclosure, shaded by several balsam and 
spruce, and some large, venerable-looking elms, which 
have resisted the storms of many generations. As 
we gradually ascended into this high latitude we sen- 



*In the rear of this, on a sightly spot, was the Baptist mission, under 
the superintendence of Rev. A. Bingham, who, for about twenty years, 
had been laboring to bring the Indians under Christian influence. Sev- 
eral children boarded at the mission, and a school was kept up which 
would have done credit to any land. 



34 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

sibly felt that we were getting into a colder region. 
There appeared to be something in the very atmos- 
phere so pure and bracing as to give buoyancy and 
elasticity to the physical and mental powers. One 
of our recent missionaries happily expressed his own 
sensation, when in that region, by saying, that he 
"felt all the time like making a speech." At seven 
o'clock in the evening we landed safely at Fort Brady, 
and were kindly entertained, for the night, in the 
quarters of Rev. W. H. Brockway, who, in addition 
to his charge of the missions, was chaplain in the 
Fort. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 35 



CHAPTER II. 

YEAR SPENT AT THE SAUT STE. MARIE MISSION. 

We had been realizing something of the romance 
of missionary life. The trip to the Saut had been 
delightful. From the time that we left Detroit every 
thing bore the charm of novelty. We were now 
about to assume the sober verities of mission life. 
Our first lessons were clear evidence to us that we 
had entered upon no sinecure. Every itinerant 
knows something about how matters in a station will 
often become deranged, even in the interval of con- 
ference. And preachers' wives know what it is to 
follow others into houses of all kinds, turned over to 
them, often not fit for occupancy. We were to take 
possession of premises from which the missionary 
had been absent about three months, and which had 
been consigned to the care of Indians, including the 
family of twelve children, boarded, clothed, etc., by 
the mission. 

September 5. John Kah-beege, a native preacher, 
who was to be our interpreter, came from the mission 
in a boat, to take us to our new home. We went 
down immediately after breakfast, accompanied by 
Rev. Gr. W. Brown, who introduced us to the mission 
children, telling them that their father and mother 



36 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

had come to take care of them. At first they were 
very shy of us, and manifested a profound ignorance 
about every thing relating to the concern. They 
were shrewd enough to watch the movement of things 
before they threw off their reserve. 

Our next business was to look about us and see 
where we were and what was to be done. There was 
ample room in the mission house, such as it was. 
One end was frame and partly finished, the other was 
built of hewed logs, much dilapidated, and has since 
been displaced by a substantial frame building. This 
dwelling, though looking very well from a distance, 
was, within, any thing but inviting, as a home. It 
had become the tenement of vermin, which gave us no 
little labor and care to expurgate. The children had 
worn their clothes to tatters, and had not a decent 
change. And, worse than this, several of them were 
infected with an odious cutaneous disease. But to 
enter into the details of these matters we should be 
compelled to write what would grate harshly upon 
refined sensibilities, and impose no pleasant task upon 
the writer. And yet it should be remembered that 
such domestic evils, disagreeable as they are to name, 
or read, must be met and disposed of by the mission- 
aries, as existing realities; and should they make no 
pretenses to extraordinary refinement, they may at 
least claim to have sensibilities highly susceptible of 
such impressions. 

We may ask the neat Massachusetts housewife to 
picture to herself, if she can, what would be her feel- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 37 

ings to be ushered into such a home, laden with the 
care of such a family? Do you wonder that gloomy 
thoughts filled the mind of Mrs. P.? But no time was 
to be lost ; something was to be done, and all hands 
went at it with the utmost determination and with 
such skill as we could command. In short, resolution 
and persistent effort overcame all such obstacles, and 
we were soon permitted to see the children well, com- 
fortably and decently clad, the building cleansed from 
every thing offensive, and our forbidding home to 
wear an agreeable and comfortable aspect. If, as 
Mr. Wesley says, "cleanliness is next to godliness," 
those acts of physical renovation were intimately con- 
nected with the spiritual interests of the mission. 

SITE OF THE MISSION. 

Than this scarcely any thing could be more lovely. 
It is two miles down the river from Fort Brady. At 
the station a large branch of the river breaks off 
abruptly, from the main channel, flowing southwardly, 
studded with numerous beautiful islets. The current 
here is very rapid; hence the name of Little Rapids. 
The mission stands on a gentle slope, a few rods back 
from this channel, in full view of the beautiful river 
scenery to the east and north, and of the mountain- 
ous ranges on the Canada shore. The shore is very 
abrupt in front of the mission, the water being, a few 
feet from land, eight or ten feet deep, and perfectly 
clear and transparent. In the rear were the barn 
and out-houses. Lining the shore were about a dozen 



38 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

Indian houses, several wigwams, and the school-house, 
an old log building, which served for chapel and 
schools. The land under cultivation was principally 
along this channel. Forty or fifty acres were then 
cultivated by the Indians, under the direction of the 
superintendent, aided by the other missionaries. A 
fine crop of vegetables were in the ground when we 
landed, to take care of which were among our first 
duties. 

RELIGIOUS ASPECT. 

Aside from its religious aspect a Christian mission 
possesses no intrinsic importance. The aim of this 
cause is a direct one; it contemplates the salvation 
of deathless immortals. When this end is not ac- 
complished missionary efforts prove a failure. The 
Christianization of the heathen is fundamental — civ- 
ilization is the legitimate fruit. 

We found here a small society of fifty-five Indians. 
When in their meetings, even a stranger to their 
language could readily perceive that religion is the 
same among the untutored Indians as among the 
whites. Their fervent prayers — their devout hymns 
of praise — their subdued and often tearful attention 
to the preached word — their consistent religious ex- 
perience, as they relate in the class or love-feast, and 
the correctness of their general deportment, may be 
favorably compared with that of their more knowing 
white brothers. 

September 10th, we spent our first Sabbath among 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 39 

them. Brother Brown had not yet left for Lake 
Superior, and preached to the Indians in the morning. 
At the same time I preached to the whites in Fort 
Brady. After noon, for the first time, it fell to my 
lot to preach, through an interpreter. I was much 
less embarrassed than I had anticipated, but it seemed 
like a tedious way of preaching. The Indians heard 
the word attentively, and all, we trust, were measura- 
bly blessed. Brother Brockway was with us, with 
whom we were permitted to join in receiving and 
administering the holy eucharist. Several Indians, 
from abroad, partook with us ; some from Grand 
Island, 130 miles distant. It was a solemn and im- 
pressive season. The prayer meeting, at night, gave 
evidence of the presence of God. 

Our Sabbath meetings consisted of the Sunday 
school, preaching twice, class and prayer meeting; 
sometimes only one sermon and prayer meeting. Be- 
sides, we had one or more meetings during the week. 
Some of these were seasons of special interest, as 
some facts, noted at the time, will show. 

September 24. Preached in the morning, with good 
liberty, on the subject of prayer. At the evening 
meeting the Indians sung with much readiness and 
prayed with fervency. And although I could under- 
stand but little they said, I was much blessed in 
waiting upon God with them, and began to feel 
much at home in those meetings- — felt, at the time, 
an inward consciousness that I was slowly advancing in 
the divine life, and panted for all the fullness of God. 



40 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

October 2. We had Rev. S. Spates with us, on his 
way to Fond du Lac mission, Lake Superior. He 
had been several years in the work, and had acquired 
an experience to which we were strangers. We en- 
joyed a gracious season together — had a good con- 
gregation. There were several Indians from Garden 
River, Canada. I conducted the morning services. 
At two o'clock, P. M., brother Spates preached from, 
a Ye are the salt of the earth," etc. His remarks 
were brief, pointed, and appropriate, and had a good 
effect on the hearers. The prayer meeting, at night, 
was a spiritual and profitable season. The Indians 
prayed with great readiness, simplicity, and fervency. 
The Lord was with us of a truth. One said, in his 
prayer, " Me very poor Indian''' Becoming very 
happy, he exclaimed, " Ah-pe-che-me-quaich, Ke-sha- 
mon-e-doo" — very thank you, Good Spirit! They 
prayed fervently for their missionaries, as well as 
for themselves and their children. The next evening 
we had a missionary prayer meeting — a season of 
considerable interest. This may suffice as a specimen 
of our religious exercises; other incidents of the 
kind will be found as we pursue the thread of our 
narrative, and may be passed over here. 

Our seasons of family worship were among the 
most deeply-interesting and profitable interviews. 
The family, including the Indian children, were called 
together, morning and evening, and a lesson read out 
of the holy Scriptures, and a hymn sung, generally 
in Ojibwa, and prayer, by some member of the family. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 41 

October 4. Rev. S. Spates was still with us, wait- 
ing for a vessel to sail to La Pointe. We were vis- 
ited, the same day, by Rev. S. Hall, a missionary of 
the A. B. C. F. M., from La Pointe, who was on his 
way to Boston, accompanied by his family. He had 
spent twelve years there — wrote and preached in the 
Indian tongue. More will be said about this truly 
Christian gentleman, and devoted missionary, in an- 
other place. 

Our religious prospects were, at times, very flatter- 
ing, during the early part of the year. But we had 
two serious drawbacks. Several of the Indians went 
to the woods to hunt, and were some time absent. 
John Kah-beege, our interpreter, started early in the 
winter to visit the Indians at Te-quah-me-non, and 
the little band at Grand Island. Instead of returning 
immediately from Grand Island, as was expected, he 
went on to Kewawenon, and did not get back till the 
opening of spring. We were, therefore, left to do 
the best we could for interpreters, and had often to 
speak through persons poorly qualified for such a 
work ; and our hands were tied, and our best efforts 
trammeled. 

The members connected with the station were con- 
siderably scattered along the shore of Lake Superior, 
as far as Grand Island. Some lived twelve miles 
below the mission, on the American shore, and some 
at Garden River, Canada. As I had the care of the 
school, it was intended that brother Kah-beege would 
do most of the traveling and preaching at these out- 



42 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

posts. During his long absence, in addition to the 
duties of the school, I made several visits to their 
encampments, for particulars of which see below : 

OUR SCHOOLS. 

The day school was made up of about thirty-five 
scholars. The average attendance, through the win- 
ter, was about eighteen. During sugar-making we 
had few, except the mission children, and the school 
was, for a time, discontinued, except as it related to 
the mission children. They were instructed at home. 
During the summer there was again better attendance, 
and the school was more prosperous. Several of the 
children spoke English quite well, and could read 
readily. The studies pursued were, of course, mostly 
elementary, and in English — spelling, reading, writ- 
ing, arithmetic, geography, and grammar. The schol- 
ars gave evidence that, with proper help, they could 
readily acquire knowledge. 

The Sunday school was made up of the scholars 
of the day school, and exerted a healthful moral and 
religious influence over the Indians. But the super- 
intending and teaching devolved on the missionaries, 
and made their duties confining, if not arduous. 

DOMESTIC CARES. 

The care of the mission family imposed no small 
burden, especially on Mrs. P. Our family numbered 
sixteen. Besides, persons employed to work for the 
mission were fed under our roof. More than this, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 43 

we were often visited by hungry Indians, who must 
be fed. One evening more than twenty crowded in 
upon us just after we had finished our supper. An 
additional meal was provided for them, and part 
lodged at the mission, and the rest distributed among 
our neighbors. This is one out of numerous instances 
of the kind. In those onerous duties Mrs. P. had 
little reliable help. Her sister did what she could. 
Two of the native girls were women grown. One 
was good help when so disposed; but the other had 
been recently taken from the wigwam. Some of the 
smaller children could render some assistance, but 
to see that they did it was, to Mrs. P., about equiva- 
lent to doing it herself. It was requisite also that 
the boys should be trained to habits of industry. 
They must work part of each day on the farm, and 
the missionary must generally be with them, or little 
would be done. So that, in doors and out, he was 
constantly taxed with the oversight of the children. 
Of this we were not disposed to complain. We had 
gone there to do what we could to better the con- 
dition of the Indians, and had anticipated all the 
work that we could perform. Our chief source of 
regret was that we could see so little fruit of our 
efforts. 

ROMAN CATHOLIC INDIANS. 

The following note was penned October 22d: "Yes- 
terday we were visited by some Catholic Indians 
from Lake Michigan. They were intoxicated. Poor 



44 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

souls! How sunken in degradation and misery with 
all their religion! And how much more deserving 
of censure they who served as agents in their intox- 
ication !" 

WEDDING. 

About this time Betsy Ge-zhe-go-qua, one of our 
mission girls, was married to John Tanner. By this 
means our number was diminished, but our best 
native help was taken away. 

CHRISTMAS AND NEW-YEAR. 

Christmas we met at half-past ten o'clock, A. M., 
for religious worship. There was a good turn-out 
on the occasion. Brother Brockway preached from, 
" He that believeth not is condemned already." His 
sermon was characteristic. He generally scores deep, 
and handles matters without much ceremony, espe- 
cially when he comes in contact with the vices and 
abominations of the heathen. 

On the approach of New- Year we had great prep- 
arations to make for the large number of Indians 
expected from abroad. A barrel of flour was baked 
into bread for the occasion, and a barrel of bean 
soup made, and sundry minor things placed in readi- 
ness. The Indians began to gather in before we 
were prepared for them. Several were pagan Indians 
recently from Lake Michigan, ignorant of God, but 
professed to be seeking religion. They were deplor- 
ably degraded. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 45 

On Friday night we had a refreshing meeting. 
Saturday the number of Indians from abroad was 
considerably augmented; on which day we had preach- 
ing both afternoon and night. Sunday morning we 
had a very spiritual love-feast. At the public meeting 
the house was filled to its utmost capacity. The 
sacraments were administered after preaching. I 
had here the privilege of baptizing Wyatt, a sprightly 
infant son of Rev. W. H. Brockway, who shortly 
after was taken to the better land. 

Sabbath evening, at eight o'clock, being New- 
Year's eve, we assembled to hold a watch-night. It 
was introduced by a prayer meeting, in which the 
Indians participated with their usual fervency and 
devotion. I followed with a sermon from Psalm 
lxxiii, 24. We then closed the old year with a 
prayer meeting, in which God was evidently in the 
midst to bless. Brother Brockway and family partici- 
pated with us in the watch meeting and the scenes 
that surrounded us at the dawn of the new year. 
One person professed religion and united with the 
Church. 

New- Year's day burst upon us as one of the most 
delightful we had ever beheld. The weather was mild 
for the climate and season. The thermometer stood 
at 22° above zero in the morning, and 32° above at 
three o'clock, P. M. As the day dawned, the atmos- 
phere was clear and transparent. A rich golden 
belt stretched along the eastern horizon, tinged with 
red, purple, and other hues. The still night had 



46 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

clad the shrubs and evergreens on the island oppo- 
site the mission with a rich, frosty drapery. The 
sun looked out from his nightly covering, and seemed 
to smile on the scene of loveliness. The beautiful 
river Ste. Marie's perfected the gorgeous picture, 
dashed upon nature's canvas by Him who painted 
the lily and colored the rainbow. As soon as it 
began to be light the Indians commenced to make 
their visits. Their custom at such times is to go, 
from the eldest to the youngest, and give every body 
a friendly shake of the hand, and say, " Bush-oo" — 
wish all a happy New- Year! Some will give you 
a kiss, if you will suffer it; and they will take all 
the cakes and provisions you see fit to give them, 
eating what they can, and carrying the rest away 
in their mush-Jce-mot, or sack, which they carry for 
this purpose. 

At ten o'clock we again had public worship with 
the Indians, when it fell to my lot to preach. After 
meeting we distributed some corn, pork, and other 
eatables among our visitors, including the barrel of 
bean soup, which was not the least among the luxu- 
ries of the day. 

Thus ended our first New- Year's day among the 
Indians. "We could but record with gratitude that 
we had, up to that time, from our arrival, been blessed 
with almost uninterrupted health. Our fare had been 
coarse and our labor arduous, but, with health and a 
peaceful conscience, we felt that it was to us really a 
happy New-Year. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 47 

TRAVELS. 

It has before been intimated that we were occa- 
sionally called to visit the Indians at their encamp- 
ments. This was done in a boat, or canoe, when the 
river was not frozen. During the winter we traveled 
on snow-shoes. I made five visits during the fall 
and winter to Mah-sh7coo-ta-sa-ga, twelve miles from 
the mission, down the river, on the same shore. The 
place derives its name from the quantity of hay 
that grows in the vicinity. The channel there widens 
into a small lake, which in English is called Hay 
Lake. I went four or five times to preach to the 
Indians living at Garden River, eight miles off, on 
the Canada side; and once visited a place called 
Shmo-na-ya-sing, sixteen miles distant on the same 
shore, where some of our mission Indians were mak- 
ing sugar. These journeys were none of them per- 
formed without severe physical labor and exposure. 
Particularly the jaunts made on snow-shoes were 
sometimes accomplished with blistered feet and weary 
limbs. In one instance several of my toes became so 
badly bruised that the blood settled under the nails, 
which in a few days came off and gave place to 
others. We were, however, amply rewarded for these 
slight inconveniences to find our visits highly prized 
by the Indians. The influence of God's Spirit was 
often manifested in the quickening of believers, and 
in some instances we found those who were inquir- 
ing what they must do to be saved. It would be 



48 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

unnecessarily tedious to enter into the minutiae of 
these trips — a description of one of them, made in 
mid-winter, must suffice. 

February 3d, in company with a young man for 
interpreter, I left the mission for Mali-sTikoo-ta-sa-ga. 
For an outfit we had snow-shoes, a dog-train, and 
two dogs, to draw our bed and provisions. The train 
was constructed of two narrow boards, about nine 
feet in length, made thin and light, and fastened 
with screws to small cleats, which were on the upper 
side. The fore end was bent over like a skate. A 
hole was made through the cleats at each end, and a 
rope drawn through from one end of the train to the 
other. Then the provision basket, made narrow 
and long for the purpose, and one buffalo robe and 
blanket, were lashed fast to the bottom ropes with a 
strong cord. One of our dogs was nine or ten years 
old, and had performed important services of this 
kind for years. His name was Nimrod. He was a 
noble specimen of the canine race, and a universal 
favorite. He, however, came to a bad end. Like 
poor Tray of old, the next summer he fell into the 
bad company of some Indian dogs, and commenced 
killing the mission calves. Our superintendent found 
it necessary to make an example of the Indian dogs ; 
and, though no doubt one of his most painful acts, 
as a matter of impartiality, he was compelled to 
shoot Nimrod with the rest. But the mission family 
were filled with sorrow, as at the loss of a friend. 

But to return from this digression. Thus equipped 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 49 

we took up our line of march on the ice, which in 
some places was bare, but was mostly covered with 
snow. Here and there water was standing on the 
ice, thinly crusted with snow, through which we 
would sometimes break with our snow-shoes. This 
made them clog, and rendered the walking heavy. 
We overtook an Indian train drawn by a pony, on a 
fishing tour. By the kind invitation of the owner, 
I rode a short distance. About two o'clock, P. M., 
we arrived at the encampment, which was about half 
a mile from shore, in the dense woods. As we ap- 
proached the scene presented was novel and inter- 
esting to one who had never seen the Indians in 
their winter retreat. The smoke from the wigwams 
was seen curling up among the hemlocks. The 
lodges looked like huge brush heaps covered with 
snow, with long smoky poles pointing up in the 
center. The lodges were first constructed as usual, 
generally conical in shape ; then thickly covered with 
boughs, and these deeply imbedded in snow, which 
served to break the severity of the cold. A large 
shed was sometimes made over the door, covered on 
all sides in the same way, which served for a wood- 
shed and store-room. 

The numerous, lofty, and wide-spreading ever- 
greens were clad in the verdure of spring, in the 
dead of winter. Where is the spot on earth, how- 
ever wild and desolate, in which the beneficent Author 
of our being has not placed something worthy of 
admiration ? 



50 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

We stopped with I-ah-be-dah-sing, a subordinate 
chief. His was the interesting family we visited at 
Mackinaw. We gave provision to the chief's wife, 
who did our cooking to admiration. They had just 
caught several rabbits, and the boys, that day, caught 
a fine lot of fish, which, with the stock of eatables 
we had with us, made us fine living. The chief was 
employed in making a gill-net, which labor he per- 
formed with great ease and dexterity. He was in- 
dustrious, and seemed to thrive. 

At night we had preaching, and several prayers, 
in this lodge, and were blessed in waiting upon God 
in the wilderness. We awoke on Sabbath morning 
somewhat rested from the weariness of the previous 
day. At ten o'clock, A. M., we met again for wor- 
ship. I preached from Isaiah iii, 10, 11. It was 
quite windy, and forced the smoke back into the 
lodge so that it was almost suffocating. I spoke with 
great difficulty, and did not know but I would be 
forced to follow the example of some other mission- 
aries and preach in a sitting posture ; but felt as 
if I could not be reconciled to this apparently indo- 
lent way of preaching. 

A SCENE IN DOMESTIC LIFE. 

As night approached I could not but look thought- 
fully on what was passing around me contrasted with 
civilized life. I was seated upon a mat, Indian fash- 
ion, at supper. Before the fire were some fish spread 
out on a stick, stuck in the ground, roasting. Any one 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 51 

approached and took a piece at pleasure. On each 
side of us the Indians were eating corn soup with 
wooden spoons. In the company were two dogs and 
a cat, which made themselves perfectly at home, and 
seemed to be objects of amusement to the inmates 
approaching veneration. Overhead were suspended, 
on poles, some of the fish caught the preceding day. 
On the end of one of these poles sat a chicken, very 
gracefully surveying the interesting scene below. 
Here, thought I, is life, in patriarchal simplicity, sure 
enough — every one seeming to do what is right, in 
his own eyes, with no one to say, What doest thou? 

At night we met again for religious worship. I 
spoke from Ezekiel xxxiii, 11, and a few prayers 
closed the public exercises of the Sabbath. After- 
ward I had some conversation with the chief about 
the religious belief of the heathen Indians. What I 
gathered, from a poor interpreter, was, in substance, 
as follows: They believed there were four gods in 
heaven. One was the Great God. When they wor- 
shiped him they used to prepare their wigwam very 
nicely. They worshiped him with music and dancing. 
They looked upon him as the god of medicine, who 
gave health to the people. Besides these, they be- 
lieved that there is one under the earth, which is 
Mah-je-mon-e-doo, the devil, or evil spirit. They fre- 
quently fasted, and some, who were very wicked, 
sometimes fasted eight or ten days. They were also 
the worshipers of idols. 

Monday, the 5th, we left the encampment about 



52 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

nine o'clock, A. M. The weather was moderate. It 
was heavy and tedious walking. The wind, on Sab- 
bath, had also entirely obliterated the track. But 
by half-past twelve o'clock we reached home, in- 
clined to the belief that walking on snow-shoes would 
be the best possible athletic exercise for modern 
dyspeptics. 

FISHES AND FISHING. 

From the time that we had reached Mackinaw we 
had often shared in the luxury afforded by the de- 
licious fishes abounding in those waters. In the 
spring and fall the far-famed white fish are caught 
plentifully in scoop-nets, just at the foot of the 
Rapids. Trout are also abundant, including the 
speckled, or brook-trout, a rare pan fish. Pickerel 
are caught in the spring and fall, and barreled in 
large quantities, at Muddy Lake, several miles down 
the river from the Saut. Another excellent fish is 
the herring. These run in schools at certain seasons, 
winter and summer, and are caught either in gill-nets 
or with the spear. The latter method furnishes great 
amusement to the natives in the winter season. Some 
of the mission boys exhibited much dexterity in this 
line, and, in the season, kept us in fish. 

CLOSE OF WINTER. 

Our winter proved to be a mild one for that climate. 
Only occasionally was the thermometer below zero. 
One or two of the coldest days it fell as low as 24° 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 53 

below. Toward the close we had snow from three 
to four feet deep on a level. Spring began to open 
gradually, the last of March and through the month 
of April, by the close of which the river was open, 
and the way clear for boats from below. It is not 
uncommon for the river to be closed up with ice till 
the tenth, and sometimes as late as the middle of 
May. It was cheering, after being closed in by so 
long a winter, and shut out, to a great extent, from 
the busy world, to see the dreariness of winter gone, 
and all things wearing the cheerful aspect of a lovely 
spring. It was not long before the noble steamer 
was seen stemming the rapid current, as the sailors 
say, "with a bone in her teeth." To the inhabitants 
of that region the arrival of the first boat in spring 
is a season of intense interest. Crowds collect at 
the landing to witness the new arrival, and obtain 
the latest news. 

SUMMER. 

This was to us a busy season, and passed rapidly 
away. Our duties were too monotonous to require 
minute description. The day school and Sunday 
school have been before described. There was little 
variation during the summer months. There was 
much hard work done on the farm by brother Brock- 
way and Indians hired by him for this purpose, in 
clearing, fencing, plowing, planting, and cultivating 
the crops. Here we found abundant exercise for 
all the time that could be spared from other duties, 



54 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

and such work was a part of the daily training of 
the boys belonging to the mission. 

We were favored, during the summer months, with 
the visits of many persons from abroad, who seemed 
to feel a lively interest in whatever appertained to 
the Indians. I believe our mission stations generally 
are — they ought to be — what Paul calls "given to 
hospitality." It often fell to our lot to entertain our 
brethren, sometimes for days and weeks together, 
who were bound to more remote parts. The fol- 
lowing note was penned July 6th: "For a few weeks 
we have had a good deal of company, which, by the 
way, is no new thing. For several successive Sab- 
baths we have had more or less Indians from abroad. 
Besides these brother Johnson and family, the Gov- 
ernment carpenter for L'Anse, stopped with us more 
than a week. In addition to these we had a number 
of visitors. Several Indians are now down from 
Grand Island, and some from Te-quah-me-non, who 
are now at the Fort, and will probably be with us 
to-morrow. There are also here three lodges from 
Mah-sfikoo-ta-sah-ga. These visits, though, for the 
most part, very agreeable, add not a little to Mrs. 
P.'s domestic cares." 

We felt at times greatly tempted that the visible 
effects of our efforts were not more striking and 
apparent. Then we were comforted to toil on, and 
leave the event with Him who sees the end from the 
beginning, and has promised that our "labor shall 
not be in vain in the Lord." An extract or two 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 55 

from my journal, about this time, will illustrate what 
is here alluded to, and show something of the state 
of religion at the mission : 

" Sunday, May 26th, preached a plain, practical 
discourse from, 'If I regard iniquity in my heart, 
the Lord will not hear me.' I felt happy in endeav- 
oring to discharge my duty. At half-past one we 
held a class meeting, and are soon to meet for our 
evening prayer meeting. Have had some peculiar 
trials of mind the past week; but out of them all the 
Lord hath delivered me, and to his great name be all 
the praise. Have this day felt a divine consolation and 
peace in my heart. How much consolation there is in 
that one word Immanuel, God with us ! Often when 
my soul has seemed to be tossed on life's stormy 
deep, as a ship on the ocean, a consciousness of God 
with me, the unworthiest of all, has hushed every 
rising apprehension, and spread calm over my soul. 
John Wesley's living and dying motto was, 'The 
best of all is, God is with us.' Surely this is the 
best of all. Heaven never made a more gracious 
promise to Israel than that God ' shall be their God, 
and shall dwell among them.' " 

SABBATH DESECRATION. 

"We are here at times called upon to witness some 
of the crying sins of our land, among others that of 
Sabbath-breaking, as was the case here to-day. Boat- 
men are frequently seen passing and repassing, sing- 
ing their boat-songs, and calling for vengeance upon 



56 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

themselves by profane swearing. A fishing-boat went 
down this morning, and one up this afternoon, laden 
with fish, towing an empty boat. The boatmen had 
to wade and pull the boat up the Little Rapids. But 
they comforted themselves by swearing that they 
would get drunk at night." 

"June 2. This morning preached from Hebrews 
x, 22-24. Was much blessed in attempting to urge 
upon the people the important consideration in the 
text. A fixed attention and deep solemnity pervaded 
the congregation. At two we met again, and par- 
took of the sacrament of the Lord's supper. Brother 
Brockway came down, but was so unwell as to be 
unable to attend the meeting, much less administer 
the eucharist; so this duty devolved on me. But 
God was with us in the breaking of bread. Some 
wept; one woman was so affected that she left the 
room weeping aloud; others rejoiced; and a deep 
solemnity characterized the whole scene. This even- 
ing had a very lively and interesting prayer meeting. 
The members of the Church were much blessed." 

Enough has been said to show, at least, that the 
Angel of the covenant was with this little Church 
just emerging from the night of pagan darkness. 

NOTES OP STUDY. 

The missionary appointed to labor among the Indi- 
ans has it in his power to shape, to a good degree, 
his own course. He can let himself down to the 
condition of the Indians, or, by habits of diligent 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 57 

study and an adherence to the customs of civilized 
life, raise the Indian to the sphere in which he moves. 
He can at least aim at this and realize its gradual 
accomplishment. The latter course we chose. In 
the school and in the field, as well as in the kitchen, 
our aim was to teach the Indians to live like white 
people. But to throw aside our books and spend the 
long winter nights in chatting, and smoking, and 
laughing with the Indians, in their wigwams — a course 
some have pursued — was to us any thing but tolera- 
ble. In that far-off land, deprived, to a great extent, 
of civilized society, the missionary can only atone for 
this loss by communing with his books. It may be 
added, that to preach acceptably among either Indians 
or white people a man must study. 

As illustrative of the manner in which we endeav- 
ored to husband our time, this brief record is made, 
which, if not generally edifying, it is hoped may serve 
as a source of encouragement to some young breth- 
ren in the ministry, who, like the writer, were de- 
prived of early advantages, and have had to force 
their way up the rugged defiles of knowledge, mostly 
unaided and alone, beset with all the obstacles of 
itinerant life, in the "backwoods." My daily read- 
ing was the holy Scriptures, the Old Testament in 
the English, by course, and a portion of the Greek 
New Testament. Among the miscellaneous reading, 
for the year, were, added to our periodicals, Dr. 
Olin's Travels in Egypt, Arabia, etc.; and, in con- 
nection, Dr. Robinson's Biblical Researches in Mount 



58 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



Sinai, etc.; Stephens's Central America; Lanman's 
History of Michigan; Bancroft's History of the United 
States, the first two volumes, etc. Some attention 
was paid to the Indian language, sufficient to enable 
me to read, with readiness, their hymns and the Scrip- 
tures translated into the Ojibwa, so that the Indians 
could understand. After a short time the services 
of an interpreter were dispensed with in this work. 
Most of what was acquired of the language, other- 
wise of practical benefit, was in colloquial intercourse. 

"Feb. 7. This morning I finished reading through, 
by course, the Greek Testament. Though a small 
thing in itself, it is what, at one time, I hardly ex- 
pected to accomplish — was in my twenty-fourth year 
before I knew the Greek alphabet. All the assistance 
I have received from a teacher, has been some frac- 
tions of four or five weeks, by an ordinary linguist. 
Since that I have passed through some of the sever- 
est conflicts of my life, and, on account of other press- 
ing duties, and the difficulties and discouragements 
of mastering a dead language, alone, I have, several 
times, for months together, laid my Greek entirely 
aside. But I have scarcely entered this delightful 
field of literature, and feel like ' forgetting the things 
that are behind,' and reaching on to further attain- 
ments. I am reviewing my Latin, and find I can 
make more rapid progress than at any former period." 

To gain time to prosecute these studies I usually 
rose at four or five in the morning, and endeavored 
carefully to redeem the passing moments. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 59 



CLOSE OF THE YE AR — APPOIN TIE NT TO THE KEWA- 
WENON MISSION. 

No note was made in my journal, from the sixth of 
July to the twenty-fifth of September. It was with 
us a very busy season. In the absence of Rev. W. 
H. Brockway, to visit the upper missions, it became 
necessary for me to take my scythe and help to cut 
and secure the hay. During the year we had gained 
some members and lost some, so that the returns to 
conference were about what we found them. Though 
we could not rejoice over any special revival, we could 
at least perceive that the Church exhibited signs of 
healthfulness and improvement. 

We lost, by death, a very amiable and interesting 
Christian youth, named Beverly Waugh, who died of 
lingering consumption, in great peace and triumph. 
It has not been our lot to witness many brighter ex- 
amples of Christianity, in life and in death, any where, 
than was seen in this child of the wilderness. 

Amid the ever-recurring changes incident to mor- 
tals, it fell to our lot to dissolve the relation which we 
sustained to this mission. It was the superintendent's 
desire that we should take charge of the Kewawenon 
mission, distant two hundred and fifty miles, on the 
shore of Lake Superior. To this arrangement we 
cheerfully submitted, although we knew that it would 
subject us to privations and perhaps sufferings, to 
which, as yet, we were strangers. The season was ad- 
vancing, and it would not do to await the sanction of 



60 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

conference. Accordingly we had our things boxed up, 
and, in part, sent up to the Fort, ready for shipping 
on the Astor, a noble brig, then up the Lake, and ex- 
pected soon to return. She was then to sail for 
Kewawenon, with winter's supplies for the traders, 
Government officials, missionaries, and others. Mary 
Jane, sister of Mrs. P., was to return to her friends, 
accompanied by brother Brockway, who left on the 
twenty-third of September, to attend the annual con- 
ference. We now had all things in readiness to leave, 
at short notice, for our new home. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 61 



CHAPTER III. 

VOYAGE TO KEWAWENON. 
WRECK OP THE ASTOR. 

The Astor had been due, from Lake Superior, 
about ten days, while we were waiting in anxious 
suspense. Meantime the Algonquin arrived with 
intelligence that, in a terrible gale, while she lay in 
Copper Harbor, she dragged her anchor, and was 
wrecked, on the rocky coast, near Fort Wilkins. It 
was melancholy to think of the loss of such a craft, 
especially at a time when it must subject many to 
privation and suffering, for want of food, during the 
long winter just at hand. The Algonquin was now 
the only boat, on Lake Superior, that could be de- 
pended on, and she had more than she could do to 
get supplies to Fort Wilkins. No boat could go to 
Kewawenon. What were we to do in this strait? 
Our missionary at Kewawenon, we knew, must be out 
of provisions. To hire hands and go, in open boat, 
or canoe, at that late season, must be attended with 
considerable expense, and subject us to great ex- 
posure. Who should bear all this responsibility? 
The superintendent was absent, and our funds were 
low. There are times when missionaries must as- 
sume responsibility, and, in justification, point to the 



62 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

necessity or wisdom of their course. We felt this to 
be just such a time. Our first endeavor was to pro- 
cure a large Mackinaw boat. But we soon found 
that the Fur Company had chartered every one that 
we could hear of, to send supplies to Copper Harbor, 
and to carry on their fisheries. Our last and only 
alternative was to buy a large bark canoe, for which 
we paid twenty dollars. We rigged it with sails and 
substantial oars, paddles, and other necessary ap- 
pendages. 

Mrs. P. was afraid to venture in so frail a craft, 
and could hardly have been persuaded to do so only 
on being assured, by one of our voyagers, that we 
should keep near the shore — by the way, at times, an 
impossibility, without the greatest hazard. This is 
especially the case in coasting along a rocky shore, 
when the sea is all commotion, and a landing could 
not be effected. The only safety, then, is in keeping 
off from the shore. How this promise was fulfilled 
will be seen in the sequel. 

OUTFIT. 

Our books and goods, except clothes and bedding, 
must be left to be forwarded in the spring. We must 
take provision enough to supply us till the next 
spring, and also to serve for our journey. We had 
three hearty Indians, besides our own family, who, at 
such work, can always eat a full allowance. Took 
with us a tent, four barrels of flour, in sacks, one 
of pork, also in sacks. Besides the articles named, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 63 

we took a keg of butter, one of lard, a box of can- 
dles, one of soap, a small cheese, one hundred pounds 
of sugar, etc. Long slim poles were laid in the bot- 
tom of the canoe to give it strength and firmness, 
and all this lading stowed in, as few, except Indians, 
could do it. Brother John Kah-beege was our main 
dependence, whose skill, as an accomplished voyageur, 
we had abundant occasion to prove. 

THE JOURNEY. 

September 30th, we took our leave of the Saut 
Ste. Marie mission' — went to the Fort and passed our 
things over the portage, and the canoe over the 
Rapids, at the head of which we camped. 

October 1. We were up at three o'clock, A. M., 
and would have been off very early, but one of the 
men had returned to the mission and detained us. 
But at eight o'clock we were all ready, and left, with 
a beautiful day, and a light wind aft. At ten o'clock 
we passed Pointe au Pin, or Pine Point, six miles 
distant. The current here is very rapid. In an hour 
more we had reached Gross Cap, sixteen miles from 
the Saut, on the Canada side. We had now an op- 
portunity to test our Indian's readiness to keep near 
the shore. To do this we must have coasted round 
a deep bay, fifty or more miles, to reach White Fish 
Point. Directly across it was only thirty miles, and 
now the wind had increased, and promised, in a few 
hours, to waft us over. 

So favorable an omen was not to be slighted. 



64 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Kah-beege proposed to make the traverse. Mrs. P. 
remonstrated, reminding him of his promise, but was 
overruled. Parisian Island lay a little out of our 
course, to the north-west. We steered directly for 
this, eleven miles distant. Here we landed a few 
minutes, and again hoisted sail, and were off for 
White Fish Point. When out miles from land, in 
every direction, the huge waves rose higher and set 
in stronger, in the direction we were bound. But 
our canoe mounted them, and skimmed over the deep 
like a bird of passage. About four o'clock, P. M., 
we neared the Point, passed on about six miles far- 
ther, and pitched our tent on a beautiful mossy beach; 
rejoiced that the first day had landed us more than 
fifty miles from the Saut. While at supper a little 
snake came into our tent and crawled into a tea 
saucer. We rested comfortably, and arose much re- 
freshed the next morning. 

October 2. We did not start early. Our canoe 
had sprung a leak the day before, and must be gum- 
med. But we were ready again by eight o'clock. 
Wind was from land, and we kept near the shore, 
and made slow progress by rowing. At one o'clock 
we reached Two Heart Rivers, and took a lunch. 
Afternoon we gained a few miles by towing and 
rowing, alternately. All of a sudden the heavens, 
in the north and west, became very dark, accompanied 
by a roaring, indicative of an immediate storm. We 
made all possible haste to get to the shore, at a suit- 
able landing. We had scarcely reached it before the 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 65 

waves were dashing with such violence that, with dif- 
ficulty, two men could hold the canoe, while the 
others waded in and out to take out our things. I 
stood in one end and held it with an oar. It was 
about as hard work as I had ever attempted. We 
succeeded to get all on shore, and our goods covered, 
before it commenced to rain. We took shelter under 
umbrellas till it abated sufficiently to pitch the tent. 
The night proved to be a very rainy one, but our 
tent sheltered us. The lake roared terribly all night. 
The next day we were wind-bound all day. To add 
to our comfort we cast up a breastwork of boughs, 
to break the storm from the tent, which we had 
pitched in a ravine. One of the men went out hunt- 
ing, but caught nothing. The following night wind 
continued from the lake, and the roar of the waves, 
dashing against the shore, was like the noise of dis- 
tant thunder. About midnight we became quite un- 
easy, lest the waves should dash over our provisions, 
covered up on the beach. We waked up one of the 
men to examine their condition. He returned, ex- 
claiming, Ka-gah, that is, almost. So we arose and 
carried the things farther back from the water. 

October 4. We were still chained to our encamp- 
ment by adverse weather. Our men went out hunt- 
ing, and returned, in the evening, with four partridges, 
and each a handkerchief full of cranberries, the 
largest we had ever seen. 

Saturday, October 5. We were still wind-bound, 
till eleven o'clock, A. M., when we once more left 



66 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

our encampment. It was hard rowing against the 
wind. We had not gone far when Kah-beege aimed 
at three ducks on the wing, and shot two of them. 
"We coasted along till four o'clock, P. M., making 
only about nine miles. Wind increased so that we 
were obliged to land, which we did with difficulty, on 
account of the heavy swells setting in to the shore. 

We went back some distance, and found a most 
delightful spot for our tent in a pine grove. Kah- 
beege took his gun and went to the woods; the other 
men and myself pitched the tent, secured the stores, 
and prepared wood for the Sabbath, while Mrs. P. 
got the supper in readiness. The evening was spent 
in drying our wet bedding, the effect of rough seas 
occasionally breaking over the canoe. Kah-beege 
returned with a partridge. After family worship, 
which we had regularly morning and evening, we laid 
us down to rest, feeling that God's banner over us 
was love. 

Sunday, October 6th, was a most delightful day. 
Every thing about us wore the garb of loveliness. 
We rested, unmolested, in our camp, spending the 
time in reading, meditation, and prayer; feeling, in 
truth, that God is every-where present to bless, 

"In the void waste as in the city full." 

Monday morning we were up by one o'clock, and 
at three were in our canoe, bidding adieu to our quiet 
Sabbath retreat. We passed, before noon, the " Grand 
Sable" or celebrated sand cliffs, lifting their summit 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 67 

more than three hundred feet above the level of the 
Lake — a natural curiosity only inferior to the neigh- 
boring Pictured Rocks, so renowned in the annals 
of Lake Superior. These we passed during the after- 
noon. As the Lake was calm, we coasted along close 
to them, and had a complete view of the ever-varying 
phases they presented. Their hight is from fifty feet 
to about two hundred above the water, from which 
they rise boldly and perpendicularly. Now they 
present a smooth wall, supporting trees and shrub- 
bery; then a beautiful cascade is formed by a stream 
leaping from the summit. Here is a magnificent 
tower cut loose from the main wall by the action 
of the waves; there we pass numerous deep caverns 
and beautiful arcades, supported by gigantic pillars 
and columns. We passed into some of those caverns 
and under some of the arches with our canoe. The 
rocks in many places are striped and tinged with 
various colors, which is supposed to have been, the 
origin of the name Pictured Rocks. Rut a subse- 
quent view of this wonderful object led me to con- 
clude that it could not have been this close view that 
suggested the name. In the summer of 1852 I saw 
those rocks in the light of the setting sun, some 
miles from land. They appeared like a magnificent 
city, with vast blocks of brick buildings, several 
stories high, presenting bold pillars, columns, and 
arches, relieved with patches of green shrubbery, 
cascades, etc. The picture loomed up in the dis- 
tance, with constantly-varying tints of light and 



68 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

shade, presenting the appearance of a most gorgeous 
panorama. Such a picture as then seen, spread out 
on canvas by a good artist, would be of rare value. 
But mine is not the pencil to give any adequate con- 
ception of this grand display of the wisdom and 
power of God. This wall of rocks extends about 
twelve* miles, and in the whole distance there is, 
as I have been credibly informed, only two or three 
places where a landing could be effected, to afford 
protection from the angry surges. While passing over 
the last four miles before we camped, the wind began 
to breeze up ahead, giving us a rather rough sea. 
About ten o'clock at night we landed on a sand- 
beach, opposite Grand Island; and by the time we 
had pitched our tent and were ready to retire, we 
were well-nigh exhausted, having traveled about forty 
miles, rowing and towing all the way except about a 
mile, where we sailed. 

Tuesday it was ten o'clock before we were ready 
to leave camp. We crossed over to Grand Island, 
against a strong head wind. The Bay became quite 
rough. Touched a few moments at Mr. Williams's, 
a trading-post, and procured some potatoes, and were 
again on our way. We kept under the island for 
some distance, sheltered from the wind. Sailed about 
a mile, in making for the main shore. Here our 



* Messrs. Foster and Whitney say, in their reports, "about five miles," 
embracing doubtless that portion which may more properly be called 
"Pictured." It is common, however, for the natives and others in that 
country to speak of this whole extent of rocks as Pictured Rocks. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 69 

way led us along an exceedingly rocky and danger- 
ous coast. The wind increased so that we could not 
land, and we did not dare to put far out to sea. 
We toiled hard at the oar, the swells occasionally 
dashing into the canoe. About four o'clock, P. M., 
we were thankful to reach a fine sand-beach, and a 
small river, into which we ran, and found safe harbor 
from the noisy billows of the deep. We had only 
traveled about ten miles that day. Found here the 
frame-work of several wigwams, and the bones of 
deer and bear, strung up on the bushes. Our leisure 
was taken up in baking bread and cooking something 
for the journey yet before us. 

October 8. We arose very early, and by five o'clock 
had breakfasted and were ready to start. We had 
the Huron Mountains in view much of the day. 
Reached Dead river, where we camped for the night. 
A bay is formed here by the jutting out of a bold, 
rocky coast, called Bald Head. This is only a few 
miles west of the now flourishing town of Marquette, 
where nothing could then be seen but the solitary 
wigwam. We caught two fine trout on our way, 
which relished well as a change of diet. Here were 
two deserted log-houses, built by Mr. Williams, of 
Grand Island. 

October 9. We were wind-bound all day, and inter- 
ested ourselves as much as possible among the craggy 
rocks along the shore. 

October 10. We were off a little before noon. 
Made a good run for the day, and sailed about five 



70 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

miles. As the Lake had calmed down, we kept on 
all night till about three o'clock, A. M., when we 
went ashore, struck up a fire, and, without pitching 
our tent, we just spread our bedding on the ground, 
and slept a short time. It had been a severe night 
of toil with us. With blistered hands, and painfully- 
weary limbs, and heavy eyes, we could have slept 
almost any where. 

Saturday, 11th, we were off again soon after light, 
and stopped once during the day to take a little 
refreshment. We ate our sad cake before it was 
fairly baked, resumed our oars, and, by the blessing 
of an ever-watchful Providence, we reached the Ke- 
wawenon mission just at dusk in the evening, rejoiced 
to end our wearisome journey and enjoy the society 
of brother Brown and his family around the cheerful 
hearth. The Lord had dealt with us in great mercy, 
and our hearts were filled with grateful emotions. 
After twelve days and nights exposed to the warring 
elements, and subjected to an extraordinary degree 
of fatigue, rest was to us sweet and refreshing. This 
was true especially of the rest of the holy Sabbath, 
which soon dawned upon us. I preached in the 
morning. Brother Brown preached his farewell ser- 
mon in the afternoon. He had labored three years 
at that station, and was beloved by the Indians as 
a devoted Christian and faithful pastor. All of 
Monday and part of Tuesday we were busily em- 
ployed in assisting brother Brown in his prepara- 
tions to go to the Saut. He, his wife, and a little 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 71 

babe, about three months old, were to take our canoe 
and men for this voyage. Out of the small quantity 
of provisions we had brought, we paid back half a 
barrel of borrowed flour and some borrowed pork, 
and furnished brother Brown with provisions for his 
trip. He took leave of the mission October 14th, 
was sixteen days on the way, encountered severe 
storms, and his provisions failed before reaching the 
Saut. This may be added to the numerous instances 
of privation and suffering connected with the mis- 
sionary work on Lake Superior. 



72 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER IV. 

FIRST YEAR AT THE KEWAWENON MISSION. 

This mission is situated near the head of Ke-we- 
naw Bay, one of the finest in the world, on a sightly 
spot, about forty rods back from the water. Near 
the house bursts forth from the side hill a living 
spring, an invaluable treasure any where. From the 
shape of the Bay, this region, for miles around, is 
called by the French L'Anse, which may apply to 
any thing shaped like an arch. Should we use this 
word occasionally, instead of the longer Indian name, 
it will be understood as designating the same place. 
The Indian cabins lined the shore, and were mostly 
those built by order of Bev. John Clark. They bore 
evident marks of age and decay. The mission-house 
was of hewed logs, about twenty-four by sixteen 
feet, one and a half stories high, covered with cedar 
bark, and a little shanty appended, which some of the 
missionaries had used for a study. 

"We had on one side of us, near by, the Govern- 
ment blacksmith, and on the other side the carpenter, 
and off some distance, in another direction, was the 
farmer's family. These constituted our white neigh- 
bors. Across the Bay, directly opposite, was the 
Catholic mission, three miles distant. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 73 

PREPARATIONS FOR WINTER. 

The roof on the mission-house was old and leaked 
badly. We therefore purchased cedar barks of the 
Indians, and put on a new roof. Then we took out 
the old mortar, and pointed the house anew with 
good lime mortar, and whitewashed it inside, which 
very much added to its appearance as well as comfort. 
This cost us a week of hard toil. 

BROTHER AND SISTER MARKSMAN. 

At this time Peter Marksman was not a member 
of the Church. A wily snare had been but too suc- 
cessfully laid for his feet, and he became entangled 
and fell. He was shorn of that strength which had 
characterized him as a youthful preacher among the 
Indians of Saginaw, where he had been instrumental 
in turning many from heathenism to God. Our mis- 
sion sensibly felt the force of such a shock. But 
brother Marksman had the magnanimity to own his 
fault, and he deeply deplored his fall ; and, in process 
of time, that look which had broken a faithless 
Peter's heart moved him to genuine repentance, and 
he was restored again to the favor of Grod and to 
his former standing in the Church. Mrs. Marksman 
had been educated at the mission of the American 
Board at La Pointe, and was, in every respect, an 
intelligent Christian lady, and a very neat house- 
keeper. This union proved to be a very happy one. 
During the winter they occupied a part of the mission 



74 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

building. Brother Marksman was my interpreter, 
and generally took charge of the school. 

PRODUCE FROM THE MISSION GARDEN, 

Brother Brown had raised and stored away about 
fifty bushels of excellent potatoes, and left some fine 
turnips in the ground, which, with our scanty supplies, 
and the unusually hard winter which was just at hand, 
afforded us great relief, and enabled us to feed many 
hungry persons, who looked to us when other sources 
failed. 

OUR FURNITURE. 

There was one old, rickety table; several stools; 
two splint-bottom chairs in their decrepitude; one 
rocking-chair, made of materials taken from the 
woods by one of the missionaries, without form or 
comeliness; and a lounge, the frame of which was 
bass-wood puncheon, and rough enough at that. 
What other furniture we found was about ditto, ex- 
cepting a cooking-stove and a box-stove. 

SCHOOLS. 

In our day school we had from thirty to forty 
scholars. Like most Indian schools, the attendance 
varied much according to circumstances. When the 
Indians were all at the mission, the school was gen- 
erally well attended; but often, in the season for 
hunting, making sugar, etc., the children would accom- 
pany the parents to the woods. This was especially 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 75 

so in sugar-making, when the whole family usually 
removed, and the school for a time had to be discon- 
tinued. The Indians are not fond of confinement, 
and missionaries, uniformly, experience much embar- 
rassment in conducting schools among them, from 
their restless and unsettled habits. In the school at 
Kewawenon, we found that the scholars did not ac- 
quire the English language so readily as the children 
boarded at the mission at Saut Ste. Marie. The 
reason, every person will perceive, was that, in the 
one case, they heard scarcely any thing at home but 
their own language — in the other it was mostly Eng- 
lish. Like most people they prefer their mother 
tongue to any other. When the school could be kept 
up, we did all in our power to advance the children in 
the elementary studies adapted to their capacities. 
And we were permitted to see them make commend- 
able progress. 

As indispensable to every mission, we had also a 
Sabbath school. Besides the children of the day 
school, we sometimes had married persons and such 
as were far advanced in life in attendance. These 
were taught to read the hymn-book, and also the 
word of God in the Ojibwa. 

The Sabbath school, as well as the day school, was 
a work of time as well as of faith. We could not 
look for any marked immediate results. This remark 
holds true of most missions among the heathen. And 
such as can not be satisfied, except with a great show 
of statistics, will meet with disappointment in looking 



76 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

at results; they are but gradually, often slowly de- 
veloped. 

SCARLET FEVER. 

Tn the early part of November, the scarlet fever 
broke out in the settlement. Several of our nearest 
neighbors were attacked — some were quite sick, but 
it did not prove fatal in any case. Brother Marks- 
man and wife, and A. W. B., a young man boarding 
with us, all were prostrated by it, and as they began 
to recover our Carrie was taken; but in her case it 
was light, and soon passed off. We were thankful to 
escape with no farther injury. 

MANUAL LABOR. 

No person is fit to be a missionary who is not will- 
ing to labor with his hands. The apostle Paul was 
not ashamed thus to labor. But there is another 
extreme into which some of our missionaries are 
driven, from necessity — too much and too severe 
manual labor. Ours was a remote station. Hired 
help was, at that time, scarcely to be obtained. And 
if it could, we were out of funds to pay workmen. 
There was much work to be done, and the missionary 
must do it mostly, or every thing must be at loose 
ends. The repairs about the mission have been men- 
tioned. An old hovel had answered for barn and 
stable. This must be torn down and a better one 
built, which was not done without some labor. Our 
fire wood must be chopped in the woods, then drawn 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 77 

and prepared for the fire by the missionary — no small 
chore in that cold region. He must also aid in pro- 
curing wood for the school and the meetings. His 
hay was several miles distant, at a marsh, and must 
be drawn in on a single ox-train, over a narrow, 
crooked trail, through the woods. Considerable fenc- 
ing must be done in the coming spring, and it was 
necessary to go into the cedar swamp, cut and split 
the rails, and draw them to their place. When 
summer came the potatoes must be planted, and the 
sowing done, and the growing crops cultivated, to 
afford us supplies for the coming winter. From such 
numerous and pressing duties we were often in weari- 
ness and pain, and deprived of time needful for study 
and pastoral duties. Our white neighbors afforded us 
much relief in such emergencies ; we changed work, 
and so assisted each other. As an illustration of the 
severe labor it was found necessary to perform, the 
following note, made December 7th, may serve : 

" Since we have been here I have been but illy pre- 
pared to preach. Have been under the necessity of 
laboring so hard in the week, as not only to interfere 
with time necessary for study, but so that, on the 
Sabbath, I have felt jaded down. Have not been 
able to set apart one whole day to study since we 
came. And nearly every week-day have labored 
hard from morning till night with my hands." 

It is not here intimated that such continued to be 
the case all the time ; but it is a fair sample of what 
must often be done, for days and sometimes for 



78 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

weeks, in succession. In the early part of the fol- 
lowing summer, aided by the Indians, who, in this 
instance, did themselves great credit, our school-house 
was renovated. It had been daubed inside and out- 
side with red clay. This had fallen out in places, and 
the house was dirty and uncomfortable. Besides, the 
roof leaked badly. We put on a new roof of cedar 
bark — took out the old mortar, and washed the logs 
clean inside — then pointed it with lime-mortar, and 
whitewashed it inside and outside. After the women 
had finished the scrubbing, we had a place of worship 
that we had no reason to be ashamed of. 

RELIGIOUS ASPECT. 

There had been a time of great religious promise 
at this station. This was soon after the foundation 
of the mission was laid, by the lamented John Clark. 
Then the Indians were collected about the station, 
several hundred in number. Instead of being for- 
tified by a strong force, it was subsequently, for years, 
placed under the charge of single men, who often did 
their own cooking, and who, in that far-off land, felt, 
at times, as if they were expatriated. Generally, 
they would return to visit their parents toward the 
close of the year — perhaps to remain. At such times 
the mission would be left, for two or three months, to 
take care of itself. Taking advantage of such cir- 
cumstances, Catholic emissaries, headed by the priest, 
brought about a division in the band, and induced a 
large portion to cross over to the west side of the 






MISSIONARY LIFE. 79 

bay, where a flourishing mission was established at an 
expense and sacrifice worthy of a better cause. The 
tide of prosperity had changed, and our little society 
was called to pass through sad reverses. 

The Indian membership we found generally at- 
tached to the institutions of the Church. They were 
remarkably punctual in attendance on the public 
worship of God — were attached to the class, and met 
in the prayer meeting. If they were disposed to neg- 
lect any means of grace it was the eucharist. In this 
solemn service there was something which inspired 
them with such feelings of awe, accompanied with 
such a sense of unworthiness, that, at times, they 
would look on with amazement, as if the very scenes 
of Calvary were enacted before them, not daring to 
approach. Exhortation and entreaty had often to be 
used to enforce the observance of this duty. The 
whole congregation kneeled in time of prayer, and 
stood up while we sung. Storms seldom kept them 
from the house of worship, so that our congregations 
were not half as fluctuating as among our own people. 

During the early part of the winter no extraordi- 
nary religious interest was manifest. Preaching once, 
sometimes twice a day, on the Sabbath ; class meeting 
and prayer meeting were our usual services among 
the Indians. Once in two weeks I preached to the 
whites, on Sabbath afternoon. About midwinter we 
commenced prayer meeting at five o'clock Sunday 
mornings, and kept it up the remainder of the winter, 
and part of the summer. These meetings were 



80 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

mostly confined to the whites, including brother and 
sister Marksman, and were often seasons of great 
spiritual profit to us. New-Year's eve we held a 
watch meeting, which was attended with the Divine 
presence and blessing. The services commenced at 
nine o'clock, and continued till the close of the year. 
The new year was ushered in with the voice of prayer. 
The little society covenanted together to live nearer 
to God ; and several expressed, by rising to their feet, 
that they desired to be Christians. 

During the month of January we had frequent 
evening meetings, sometimes occupying nearly every 
evening in the week. The Church was greatly quick- 
ened, but we were favored with no general revival. 

As usual, about the first of March the Indians 
left for the sugar bush, and our meetings, till they 
returned, were thinly attended. We visited them sev- 
eral times in their encampment, and broke to them 
the bread of life. 

In the early part of May our little society was 
favored with a refreshing shower of grace. The fol- 
lowing facts were recorded the 5th : " The Lord 
appears to be favoring us with an outpouring of his 
Spirit upon the Church here. This commenced with 
brother J., who stated, in meeting yesterday, that, 
for some time past, he had lived much in unbelief, 
and at a great distance from God. Last Wednesday 
he was peculiarly drawn out in prayer to God, and 
while in an agony, these words came into his mind, 
' Only believe/ and he exclaimed, ' Lord, I will 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 81 

believe,' and instantly his burden was removed, and 
ever since he had been so blessed that he felt like 
shouting and praising God aloud, wherever he went. 
He immediately told his wife what the Lord had done 
for him, and exhorted her to look for the same bless- 
ing. From her acknowledgment, she also had been 
in a backslidden state. She stated that instead of 
feeling happy at what her husband had related, it 
appeared to make her angry at the Lord, saying 
that she had done all she could. Her husband still 
pressed the case — she yielded — gave herself anew to 
Christ, and has since rejoiced in the liberty of the 
Gospel. Brother J. was the carpenter. 

" Some others of our white brethren and sisters have 
been greatly blessed since. My own soul has shared 
in the general blessing. To-day Peter Marksman 
was brought into the liberty of the Gospel, from 
which he fell last year, and which he has again been 
seeking for some months past. I trust this flame will 
spread not only among the whites but among the 
Indians. They are still, most of them, absent in the 
sugar-camps. This evening was our monthly mission- 
ary prayer meeting, and it proved a truly -refreshing 
season. 

May 25. Things appear more promising in re- 
gard to the spiritual interests of the mission. For 
some two months and a half the Indians have been 
scattered; they are now together again. Our day 
school commenced last week. This morning our Sab- 
bath school opened with some promise. We had five 



82 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

o'clock meeting this morning, both among the white 
people and the Indians, At 10J o'clock, A. M., I 
preached from Isaiah lii, 1. Had the largest con- 
gregation we had seen for some time. Was blessed 
with great enlargement in preaching. Had not ex- 
perienced such an overwhelming sense of the Divine 
presence before since our arrival. My faith in the 
power of God to accompany the preaching of the 
Gospel, by however weak instrumentality, was in- 
creased, and my soul went out in longing desire for 
the Indians. God was present to bless his people." 

In the afternoon, in the midst of our meeting, 
the alarm of fire was given. It had been raging 
fearfully in the woods, and found its way into an old 
slashing close to the mission, and the rest of the 
afternoon and evening we were forced to fight the 
fire desperately to preserve our fences and buildings. 

Many of our meetings during the summer season 
possessed much interest, but, in the midst of many 
pressing duties, no accurate memoranda were kept. 
As our work was here mostly confined to one spot, 
there was, necessarily, much monotony in the routine 
of our duty. 

Brother Carrier, the farmer, and his excellent wife, 
exerted a most wholesome influence among the In- 
dians. They were Congregationalists, educated at the 
Oberlin School, Ohio. They felt that their mission 
was not simply to teach the Indians how to plow and 
plant. Sister C, who possessed a more than common 
degree of intelligence, studied the Indian language, 






MISSIONARY LIFE. 83 

and, taking sister Marksman for interpreter, she used 
to visit the Indians in their houses, read God's word 
to them, pray with them, and instruct them how to 
live as Christians, and as white people. A female 
prayer meeting was established, and a moral reform 
society organized for the benefit of the Indians. If 
the Government should send such families among the 
Indians, instead of supplying those posts with men, 
as is often done, who have no higher claim than that 
their political creed accords with the party in power, 
they would shed light and happiness on the pathway 
of the Indian. If any Government officers should be 
persons of sterling moral character, they are those 
sent among the natives. 

SEVERITY OF THE WINTER. 

The ground was covered with snow about the mid- 
dle of October. This left us, and we had several days 
of very fine weather. The 14th of November several 
inches of snow fell, and winter was soon upon us 
in good earnest. The coldest weather commenced 
about the last of January. We had no thermometer 
to show the exact state of the weather. January 
31st, the bay was frozen over, and as it had been 
calm it was perfectly smooth for miles. This was a 
source of joy to the Indians. They had caught but 
few fish for a month or two before — now the prospect 
was that they could set their nets to advantage. 
Most of the settlement were out on the ice skating 
and fishing. But in less than a week a terrible gale 



84 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

from the north-east broke the ice all to pieces, and 
drove it together edgeways, and in all forms, six or 
eight feet deep, destroying a number of nets, and 
rendering it impossible for the Indians to set others. 
In a time of such scarcity as then existed in the 
provision line, every thing looked gloomy. From 
that on till the last of March, very few fish were 
caught. The potatoes had been mostly consumed, 
and the game taken from the woods was inadequate. 
There was, necessarily, a considerable amount of 
suffering before the winter closed. During sugar- 
making some lived almost entirely on sugar. But 
God mercifully preserved both whites and Indians 
till the opening spring afforded us plenty of the 
most delicious fish, and the whitened sail was seen 
in the distance, which brought us a new recruit from 
below. In this time of want and hunger we set apart 
a day of fasting and prayer among the whites, and 
met during the day for public worship. 

PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE. 

Toward the latter part of March, in company 
with some other men, I was helping to remove some 
hay from a marsh to the shore, near the head of the 
bay. The marsh was about a mile back through the 
woods. Just at the bay our trail crossed a very deep 
creek. We had drawn most of the stack. I had 
just passed over the creek with an ox and train, 
threw off the hay, and was returning for my last load. 
The ice gave way and the ox fell through. Fortu- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 85 

nately the bow-pin came out, and the ox was disen- 
tangled from the yoke and train. I caught a rope 
which we had for binding the hay, and, in an instant, 
made fast to the horns of the ox, which must soon 
have gone under. By this means I kept his head 
out of the water. I next called aloud to the men 
at the marsh, who heard me, and came speedily to 
my assistance. We released the ox without loss or 
damage to any thing ; but it was not till after all was 
done that I realized my own imminent danger. Some 
may regard this as a mere instance of good luck ; I 
rejoice to trace in such events the hand of a kind 
Providence, and to ascribe to his name the glory. 

STUDIES. 

Our opportunity for study was, at best, but limited. 
My library had been left at the Saut during the 
winter. In this interval we had received but one 
mail, and that we had hired an Indian to bring on 
his back from Saut Ste. Marie. The Bible and Greek 
Testament were constant companions. In the spring 
I added a copy of the Septuagint to my course. 
When our books arrived we endeavored, as far as 
practicable, to obey the apostle's injunction, " Give 
attendance to reading," and strove, meanwhile, at 
least, not to forget the use of the pen. Would that 
our profiting had been more apparent ! 



86 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 



CHAPTER V. 

TRIP TO LA POINTE TO ATTEND THE INDIAN 
PAYMENT. 

Our Indians were to receive their annuities at La 
Pointe. It was agreed that a few should go and 
receive the pay, and the rest remain at the mission. 
I had arranged to accompany them. 

Tuesday, August 12. We left in a large bark 
canoe which the chief, David King, had made for 
the purpose. There were four stout Indians, besides 
David, who himself possesses a herculean frame. We 
crossed over to the Entry, into Portage river, and 
camped at night on the shore of Portage Lake. We 
had fallen in company with several canoes from the 
Catholic mission. The next morning we were up by 
three o'clock, and left our camp a little after four. 
Went eight miles and breakfasted. David and G. 
were quite unwell, and took an emetic of alder bark, 
drinking a large quantity of warm water. It did the 
work effectually; for in a few minutes they were 
ready to take down as much bread, pork, potatoes, 
fish, and coffee as any body. We soon reached what 
is called the Portage — a mile and a half of land car- 
riage, where the canoe and all our effects must be 
carried over. One-third of the way we had to wade 






MISSIONARY LIFE, 87 

in water and mud. To me this was quite new busi- 
ness. But we were all over before noon to the shore 
of Lake Superior. Here we were wind-bound the 
remainder of the afternoon. A little after midnight 
we were off again — the day was fine, but the sun 
scorching hot at noon, and the Lake calm. We 
coasted about seventy miles and camped. Friday 
morning we were on our way again by half-past 
four o'clock; but we were baffled most of the day 
by contrary winds. About five o'clock, P. M., we 
ran into Carp river, where we found safe harbor. 
Shortly after James Schoolcraft, sutler from Fort 
Brady, came up with a large canoe and camped. I 
felt concerned lest we should be caught out over the 
Sabbath, and determined to urge our men off as soon 
as the Lake was sufficiently calm. Instead of camping 
on shore with them, I took a blanket and laid down 
in the canoe, which was made fast in the river. At 
eleven o'clock I aroused the men, and. urged them to 
start. The chief said, "Ka-gali Ne-shko-de-ze;" that 
is, " I am almost mad. You know but little about 
the Lake." To this I readily assented, but was well 
assured that we could go, and told him we could try. 
I succeeded in getting them off about midnight. When 
we first started heavy dead swells were rolling, but 
the Lake soon became quite calm, and we had coasted 
about twenty miles by the time it was fairly light, 
and stopped for breakfast at the mouth of Black 
river. Here we found a tent and three copper hunt- 
ers. Breakfast over, we put out again to sea, rowed 



88 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

about four miles from shore, and a most favorable 
breeze sprung up from the north-east. Now we had 
up main, fore, and top-sail, but the wind increasing, 
all were taken down but the fore-sail, and that closely 
reefed. Here was a traverse of about forty miles, 
directly to La Pointe. The heavy seas, which soon 
set into the bay, made it dangerous to effect a landing 
any where short of this. So, heading directly for La 
Pointe, we sailed at a rapid rate. The sea became 
very rough when we were in the midst of this great 
traverse. Now the high land to the left of us was in 
full view, and the Montreal river, dashing and foam- 
ing over falls of about eighty feet in hight ; then all 
was hid in that direction but the blue sky. How frail 
was our craft, and what atoms we ourselves, compared 
with the billows around us! But God was with us, 
and held us in the hollow of his hand. Here we felt 
how good it was to trust in the Lord. By about noon 
on Saturday we landed in safety on Madeline Island, 
at La Pointe. I was very kindly received by the 
missionaries of the American Board, composed of 
Rev. S. Hall and family, Rev. Mr. Wheeler and Mr. 
Sproats and their families. Met here, also, Mr. Ely, 
a missionary from Pokegama, brother P. 0. Johnson, 
from Leach Lake, several Indian preachers, and Rev. 
Mr. Rosseal, from the state of New York. Here 
were, also, traders and visitors from the Saut, Detroit, 
and other parts, and the place swarmed with Indians 
who had come hundreds of miles, out of the dense 
wilderness, to receive their annuity. We were de- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 91 

tained here thirteen days before we could leave, 
during which our time was spent very agreeably 
and profitably with the resident and visiting mis- 
sionaries. It was to us a kind of missionary con- 
ference, and made up for many of our past priva- 
tions. With those devoted missionary brethren we 
lived much in a few days. 

RELIGIOUS EXERCISES. 

Each Sabbath we had four services, two in English 
and two in Ojibwa, in which the resident and visit- 
ing brethren participated. We had also a morning 
prayer meeting each day in the week. Among our 
most hallowed seasons were those spent under the 
mission-roof at family worship. Two of the mission 
families, with their visitors and boarders, met around 
one altar. Among them were several charming sing- 
ers. All present took part in reading the holy Scrip- 
tures. The persons who led the devotions made 
brief remarks on the lesson. This was followed by a 
devotional hymn, in which the different parts were 
carried. Then followed the prayer. The Spirit's 
divine influence seemed to fill the room. We felt as 
Peter, on the Mount of Vision, that it was good to be 
there. These delightful exercises were conducted 
with the spirit and with the understanding also. 
Such a bright spot was like an oasis in the desert. 
We hope never to forget those sacred hours. Our 
seasons of public worship were attended with the 
divine blessing. 



92 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



THE MISSION. 



Rev. S. Hall, the superintendent, had resided here 
about thirteen years, with an interesting family of 
children growing up around him, who were about as 
familiar with the Indian as with their native tongue. 
Mr. Hall has been, in every sense, a laborious mis- 
sionary, working hard with his hands, preaching, 
translating, etc. With the aid of native interpreters, 
he had translated the New Testament into the Ojibwa, 
a work which is invaluable to the missions all through 
that region. Rev. Mr. Wheeler, of whom we could 
say many good things, spent considerable time at Bad 
river, where he has since succeeded in establishing a 
nourishing mission. Two schools were under the di- 
rection of the mission at La Pointe — one taught by 
Mr. Sproats and the other by Miss Spooner, a well- 
qualified Christian lady, who, like the others, had, for 
Christ's sake, volunteered to leave friends and home 
in the east, to be a missionary. The schools were 
reported as in a nourishing condition. Most of our 
missionaries, about Lake Superior, have occasionally 
found shelter under the roof of that mission, and 
there is but one voice from the whole, in regard to 
the unaffected hospitality and dignified Christian bear- 
ing of those missionaries and their families. In com- 
paring the mission here, with our Methodist missions 
among the Indians, I gained the impression that these 
missionaries excelled us in their schools, and en- 
deavored to train the Indians intellectually ; but that 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 93 

we were far in advance, so far as making converts 
from paganism is concerned, and in promoting their 
civilization generally. Each, however, has marked 
out its appropriate sphere of influence, and is accom- 
plishing the one great work.* 

INDIANS FROM THE WOODS. 

Their condition appeared deplorable enough. Many 
of them were disgustingly filthy — they looked as if 
they never pretended to wash either their persons or 
their clothes. Some of them had scarcely a tatter of 
even a filthy garment about them, and were almost 
destitute of provisions. They were painted and dis- 
figured, and decorated in the most grotesque and 
ludicrous manner. Their outward appearance was 
only the counterpart of their minds — ignorant, mor- 
ally polluted, and debased to the level of the brute. 
Their insolent pride gave the finishing stroke to their 
morally depraved condition. They were much ad- 
dicted to gambling — some of them would part with 
all they had, in their strife to win the game. All that 
was wanting to complete their wretchedness was, to 
let them have whisky, which, fortunately, at this pay- 
ment, by untiring vigilance, was kept from them. In 
looking at our Christian Indians, by the side of those, 



* It is due to us to observe, that a large proportion of those in attend- 
ance upon those schools were of a mixed population — few full-blooded 
Indians. They were consequently more settled — less dependent on the 
chase, and better prepared to excel in their studies. Under the direction 
of such teachers they could not but succeed. 



94 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

I wanted no further proof of the power of the Gospel 
to elevate the red man. 

WAR-DANCE AND HEATHEN BURIAL. 

On the evening of the 19th the Indians had a war- 
dance. They made dull music on two drums of their 
own construction. This was accompanied by singing 
and an occasional whoop. They commenced in a 
large lodge and marched out, when they were joined 
by others, till they formed quite a procession. Two 
of them had flags of divers colors. They marched in 
a kind of dance. In those dances some one usually 
makes a speech in which some great exploits are 
recounted. 

On the evening of the 29th we observed a funeral. 
An aged Indian, after he had received his pay, was 
returning to his lodge, and dropped down dead in the 
road. This was about noon. Just before dusk he 
was buried, according to heathen custom. A kettle 
of provision was put in the grave by the head of the 
departed, on which it was supposed his spirit would 
feed. After the grave was closed, the relatives feasted 
on a kettle of boiled pork and " dough-boys ," that is, 
pieces of dough boiled with the pork — a rare treat 
among the wild Indians. They were thus, as they 
supposed, feasting with their departed brother. They 
often place tobacco at the head of their graves, to 
serve for the departed. How gloomy such a burial ! 
Is it wonderful that heathen Indians blacken their 
faces for the dead, and often spend hours of incon- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 95 

solable grief over the graves of their deceased friends ! 
Their grief is that of frenzy and despair. No Christy 
no hope in death I 

RETURN. 

After much delay the payment was made, and we 
took our departure August 29th. It was not con- 
venient to return in the canoe with our Indians, on 
account of the goods, provisions, etc., they had to 
carry. Brother Marksman and his wife, who had 
preceded us to La Pointe, and myself, took passage 
on the Algonquin, which was to take us directly to 
Copper Harbor, where a trader was to wait for us 
with his canoe, and take us to L'Anse. Contrary 
to agreement, and to the great disappointment of 
several traders aboard, the captain steered directly 
for Isle Royal, to pick up some miners, who wished 
a passage down. We were becalmed, and did not 
reach the island till Monday morning, when we ran 
into the delightful harbor, called Rock Harbor. Drop- 
ping down about three miles to an old fishing post, 
we were disappointed again to find, by a card left, 
that the miners were on the opposite side. A gun 
was fired, which they heard, and they reached us just 
before dark. We had the day to hunt agates, and 
stroll among the wild scenery. Here we were forced 
to lay all night, and till one o'clock the next day, 
before we cleared the Harbor. We were then favored 
with a good wind, which brought us into Copper 
Harbor Tuesday, about midnight. 



98 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Landing in the morning, we learned that the trader, 
who was to take us home, became tired waiting, and 
left us. We were now in a fix, mostly among entire 
strangers, our money nearly spent, and, to human 
appearance, no way to reach home, seventy-five miles 
distant. After taking breakfast at a boarding house, 
and before taking any step, I retired to the woods 
and spread out our case before the Lord, and returned 
fully assured that some relief would be afforded us 
in our trying situation. We looked about and found 
a small canoe, for which the owner asked us twelve 
dollars. It was too much, but we did not know any 
better course to pursue, and bought it. Having 
learned something about our disappointment, he came 
afterward and refunded two dollars. A Mr. Hopkins, 
who was, probably, at the head of this movement, 
gave us two dollars. Mr. M. gave us one dollar, and 
some pork for our journey ; and two merchants, 
Messrs. Barbeau and Chapman, gave us a bag of hard 
bread, worth about three dollars. We fell in with 
the lamented Dr. Houghton, who kindly furnished 
us with a tent. Thus were all our wants met by a 
merciful Providence. 

Copper Harbor was, at that time, the central point 
of attraction for all concerned in the mines, which 
had just begun to excite attention. The shore, all 
about the Harbor, was lined with tents, and every 
thing was on the move as if the people were driving 
on to a speedy fortune. 

We were detained here, in our camp, till Thurs- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 99 

day afternoon. The wind blew a gale most of the 
time, and the Lake was all agitation, We left the 
Harbor in our frail bark attached by a rope to the 
large boat of Dr. Houghton. The breakers were 
rolling in, angrily, when we left, and it was not with- 
out risk of running under that we had to resort to 
this expedient. The Doctor would have given us a 
place in his boat, but his own lading was sufficiently 
heavy. After passing fairly out of the Harbor we 
were in little danger, and, with a fine breeze, soon 
reached the end of Point Kewenaw. Rounding the 
Point we came into smooth water, and dropped loose 
from the Doctor's boat. He stopped with his men, 
and we kept on till some time after dark, when we 
reached the opposite shore of Bate du Gris, com- 
monly called Bay Degree. Here we camped in com- 
pany with some Indians, who had left Copper Harbor 
before us. The tent we had left with the Doctor. 
Here we ate our homely meal, and, as was our uniform 
custom, sung and prayed, and laid us down, under 
the open canopy of heaven, and slept sweetly till the 
dawn of day. The morning light was saluted also 
with the voice of prayer and praise. We craved the 
watchful care of God over us, exposed, as we were, 
to the perils of the deep. And the day had not 
passed before we saw our need of this. Early in the 
day we met a canoe from home, which had been 
dispatched to look after us. Finding that we were 
all "right side up with care," Mr. B. went on to Cop- 
per Harbor on his own business. When the wind 



100 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

would allow we carried a small sail, such as our craft 
could bear, and sailing some, and using the paddles 
briskly, we proceeded very well till toward night, 
when a fine breeze sprung up, which was bearing us 
along nicely. But gradually it gathered strength, 
and now the white caps began to appear, and wave 
succeeded wave, till the scene about us looked fright- 
ful. A short distance before us was a point, and on 
from that, for a distance of about eight miles, was a 
high wall of rocks, where we could not have landed. 
As night was approaching it added to the risk of any 
attempt to pass them. About a mile to our right was 
a beautiful sand-beach, but a terrible sea was rolling 
in to the shore. A moment was spent in deciding 
what to do. We agreed that our only hope was to 
try to land. Marskman had the stern of the canoe, 
and I managed the bow. We wheeled for the shore, 
meanwhile throwing off our coats, shoes, and stock- 
ings, to be ready to spring into the water before the 
canoe should strike. The steersman was to give the 
word of command. As we approached the shore we 
paddled with all our might to ride in upon one of 
the huge waves. Just now said Marksman, "make 
ready." No sooner said than I found myself on my 
feet, firmly grasping the bow of the canoe. In an 
instant he was out at the stern, and taking advantage 
of the wave, we ran her as high as possible on the 
beach. Now a large swell broke over the stern, but 
doing us little damage. With the utmost dispatch 
we had every thing safely landed. Our feelings of 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 101 

thankfulness may be more easily imagined than ex- 
pressed. We kindled a fire, and, as it had com- 
menced to rain, constructed a tent out of our sail and 
a coverlet. Then singing a hymn of praise, we im- 
plored God's blessing upon us, and were drawn out 
especially in behalf of the Indians we had camped 
with the night before. Having a larger craft they 
put out further to sea, and the storm was now ahead 
for them. The night was dark and rainy, and much 
doubt hung over their prospect; so we worked about 
half of the night, to keep up a bright fire to serve as 
a beacon. It is enough to say that they found a 
shelter from the storm, and reached home in safety. 
We rested but little that night — the howling of the 
wind — the roaring of the lake — the chilliness of the 
atmosphere — the thought of home — the uneasiness 
of my dear wife and daughter, all conduced more to 
reflection and prayer than to sleep. Saturday the 
wind was in the east, and a heavy sea continued to 
set in to the bay. The following was penned on the 
spot: 

" Unless the tempest should soon subside we shall 
not reach home this week. Blessed be God, I trust 
that this journey, which has been adverse at almost 
every turn since I left La Pointe, has taught me 
many important lessons. I have seen the hand of 
God strikingly exhibited in several instances. My 
soul is fixed trusting in the Lord. I will not fear 
though the sea roar, and the mountains shake, with 
the swelling thereof." 



102 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

After noon the lake measurably calmed down, and 
we might have gone on, but for the heavy breakers 
which still rolled up against the shore. We made an 
ineffectual attempt to get off. Pushing the canoe to 
the water's edge, we put in our things, shoving it out 
gradually as far as we dared. We stood in water 
about half an hour watching a favorable swell. At 
length we shoved off, but were met about as soon 
with a huge Wave, which broke over the canoe, filling 
the bow half full, submerging a box of Indian Testa- 
ments and badly wetting our things. We were now 
in danger of losing the canoe, as from its weight it 
was unmanageable. But making fast to a tree by 
means of a rope, we got out our effects and secured 
the canoe. Making ourselves as comfortable as we 
could, we were compelled to wait more favorable 
auspices. 

We arose early the next morning to hail the light of 
a lovely Sabbath. What should we do ? Our bread 
had become damp and musty. Our other provisions 
were nearly exhausted. Our situation was very un- 
comfortable. With our small canoe we could not go 
when it was rough, and should we neglect the present 
opportunity, we might have to stay for days on that 
dreary shore, when a few hours would take us home. 
We thought of the anxious suspense of our friends, 
to know what had become of us. These and other 
similar reasons led us to think that it was our duty 
to go, especially in the light of Christ's declaration 
respecting the observance of the Sabbath: "I will 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 103 

have mercy and not sacrifice." We therefore coasted 
leisurely along on the placid lake, till we came within 
about six miles of home, when we caught a favorable 
breeze, which soon bore us across to the mission, 
where we landed a little after noon — finding all well 
and rejoicing in God at our deliverance from the 
perils of the deep. 



104 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER VI. 

SECOND YEAR AT THE KEWAWENON MISSION. 

The conference, which had recently been in ses- 
sion, saw fit to continue us at this station. "We shall 
aim to group together what is worthy of notice during 
this year, in as brief a manner as possible. Our work 
was mostly at home, and therefore was more monot- 
onous than some other periods of our connection with 
the missions. 

The summer before we had succeeded in raising a 
good crop of vegetables. Several days were spent in 
digging and taking care of our potato crop. "We had 
not only enough for our own use but a surplus. 
Those I took in a large batteau to the Eagle River 
mine, where I was paid for them, in gold, about forty- 
five dollars. This was the first surplus the mission 
had produced. The avails greatly aided us in our 
work. The batteau had been sold by a Mr. B. to the 
Mining Company, and was to be left at Eagle river. 
We took a small bark canoe in tow, to return home 
with. The tour was the shortest and most successful 
coasting-trip I ever made. We reached Eagle river, 
via Kewenaw Point, in a little more than two days 
and a half. The same afternoon we disposed of our 
vegetables, unloaded the batteau, gummed our canoe, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 105 

and by dark were ready to start for home. I was 
dubbed captain, for the first time, by the receiver 
of our cargo. I had an interview here with the late 
lamented Dr. Houghton, and passed that night — 
Friday — in our frail bark over the spot where he was 
drowned, in a terrible gale, the Monday night fol- 
lowing. The Lake was calm, and we reached the 
Portage, twenty-five miles, by midnight. The next 
night, by ten o'clock, we reached the mission in 
safety. The whole journey, a distance of one hun- 
dred and seventy-five miles, was performed within 
four days. 

We were embarrassed, during the fall and winter, 
by the serious illness of brother Marksman, by which 
he was laid aside from the work.* This threw the 
school on my hands, in addition to the onerous duties 
which already claimed my attention* And till the 
middle of December we had no regular interpreter. 
In this interim we had to depend mostly on two 
females, who spoke both languages well, and rendered 
us good service. G. Bedell arrived from a more dis- 
tant station the 13th of December, and was hired 
to interpret the rest of the winter. With our limited 
help we endeavored to have all the interests of the 
mission cared for to the best of our ability. The 
day school and Sunday school were kept up, except 



* Toward spring sister Marksman was brought to the confines of the 
grave by a most painful affliction. It was a time of fiery trial to brother 
M. and his family. But they found their help in God. 



106 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

in absence of the scholars for sugar-making. But, 
as there was little change in the inhabitants, our 
schools were made up of nearly the same scholars 
as the year before, and the description before given 
may suffice. 

Our religious meetings were attended with many 
discouragements, as well as our educational interests — 
perhaps not proportionately more than among our 
own people. Our native population at the mission 
was less than one hundred and fifty souls, including 
children. Most of the adult population had, at some 
time, professed religion. Backsliding is a sin among 
Indians as well as among white people. Take a 
community of the same size and character, relig- 
iously, among white people, and then ask, would it be 
reasonable to expect sweeping revivals of religion from 
year to year, in which scores would crowd the altar 
as penitents, and go on their way rejoicing as new 
converts? It is no uncommon thing in a community 
of hundreds of white people for the Church, to have 
only an occasional revival. Spiritual declension is 
by no means a rare thing. I speak of this not to 
justify want of revival in either case; but, simply, as 
an existing fact in both cases, and no less notorious 
amono; whites than Indians. It is a false view of 
this very thing which operates to the prejudice of 
our Indian missions. Many are wont to expect re- 
sults, which will tally with successful efforts in a 
dense population, where no hinderance is placed in 
the way by a strange language. The question, whether 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 107 

we ought to abandon such posts because of the pau- 
city of numbers, is another thing, which I shall not 
stop here to answer. All we ask is, that, as long 
as the Church, in her wisdom, shall think best to 
cultivate such ground, our people should not look 
despairingly at the results so long as they equal those 
among the same number of white people. But we 
were not left without witness that God was with us. 
The Church was often quickened, backsliders were 
occasionally reclaimed, and, in some instances, we 
were enabled to rejoice in the conversion of sinners. 
The following was noted December 8th : " After 
mentioning some of our discouragements, on account 
of brother Marksman's illness, etc., I was led to say, 
< Man's extremity is often God's opportunity.' In 
the midst of all these discouragements he has been 
pleased to visit and bless us. Our meetings among 
the Indians have never been so interesting since I 
came here, as for some time past. A week ago last 
Sabbath was our communion season, and a more melt- 
ing time I have never witnessed any where. My 
own soul was so peculiarly drawn out in behalf of 
the Indians, as seemed to dissolve me in tears. My 
interpretress became so deeply affected that she had 
to make occasional pauses to give vent to tears. A 
divine influence seemed to pervade the house, so that 
nearly the whole congregation were melted into ten- 
derness. So far as I was concerned it was not merely 
the effect of the moment, but, for some time before, 
I had communed intimately with God in secret." 



108 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

At night of the same day a backslider was reclaimed 
and united again on trial. Confession was also made 
by others who had been in a backslidden state, who 
expressed a determination to lead a new life. 

The next Sabbath I took for my text, " Therefore 
will the Lord wait that he may be gracious" Our 
meeting was very similar to those of the preceding 
Sabbath. The Church was evidently rising to new- 
ness of spiritual life. 

Christmas eve was, with us, a season owned of God. 
We had our house neatly trimmed with evergreens 
furnished to hand in such abundance, and well lighted. 
The meeting was attended by our own and some of 
the Catholic Indians. We met again the next day 
and had public worship, and baptized two children. 

December 27. After laboring hard all day with 
my hands, I visited, at night, eight families. I found, 
in conversation with them, that, for a time, most of 
them had been in a low state of religion, but that, 
in most cases, of late, they had been making renewed 
efforts to love and serve God. Two or three spoke 
of having the load of sorrow removed from their 
hearts, which were now filled with peace and joy. 
Some who were not yet brought into this liberty 
expressed a determination to continue seeking. I 
was rejoiced to find, in the midst of much back- 
sliding, a hungering and thirsting after righteousness. 

We held a watch meeting New-Year's eve as usual, 
which was well attended and blessed to those present. 
Two backsliders expressed a determination to return 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 109 

again to their Father's house, and most of the pro- 
fessors renewed their covenant with God. After the 
meeting was dismissed a young man desired to speak 
with me. He was so deeply affected that he could 
scarcely speak for sobs and tears. He stated that 
he had been reminded of his unfaithfulness the past 
year. He was troubled on that account. But the 
Lord had been near him during the watch meeting, 
and he was resolved to serve God better for the future. 

Just as we were about leaving the house a person 
came to tell me that my daughter was quite ill. On 
returning to the house I found her severely attacked 
with croup. Using the best means at command we 
were thankful to see her soon convalescent. 

In one of our meetings about this time, the chief, 
David King, arose, so deeply affected that he could 
say but few words at a time. Among other things 
he said, that " while he was talking with his family 
in the morning, and telling them how they should 
live, he thought of his brethren, some of whom were 
cold in their hearts. This overpowered him. He 
sung and prayed, and now exhorted his brethren to 
be more faithful." While he spoke I saw some others 
weeping freely. The Indians are taught to believe 
that it is the greatest weakness for a man to weep. 
Nothing but the love of Jesus can open the fountain 
of tears. In their heathen state they can look on, 
apparently with stoical indifference, when their dear- 
est friends are torn from them by death. They often 
have deep feelings bordering on despair, but it would 



110 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

be unmanly to betray them. To weep would be to 
act like women. But the strong man armed is brought 
to bow, and the adamantine heart to melt, under the 
power of the cross. 

As we were about leaving the house of prayer we 
witnessed a scene in striking contrast with the one 
just mentioned. Several white men in a boat came 
to the shore, singing the song called "The Flowing 
Bowl," and hallooing at the top of their voice, evi- 
dently influenced by liquor. They appeared perfectly 
reckless of all order and decency. They went from 
house to house with their jug, but found no one to 
drink with them. Even our Indians despised them, 
and they soon left for the settlement across the Bay. 

The 4th of January was our communion day. It 
was an occasion of much interest. Christ was pres- 
ent to bless in our love-feast. Thirteen, princi- 
pally youth from ten to sixteen years of age, united 
with the Church on trial, most of them as seekers. 
The scene was delightful and truly affecting, to see 
those children give their hand to the Church while 
tears trickled down their cheeks. Among the parents 
and older members of the Church, some were over- 
come with joyful emotions, and others were agonizing 
for a blessing. Two of those who joined us had been 
members of the Boman Catholic Church, one a mem- 
ber that they prized highly. In the afternoon I 
baptized a young man, who had also been a Papist; 
he united with our Church on trial. At night we 
had a manifest display of the power and mercy of 



MISSIONARY LIFE. Ill 

God. At an invitation for persons cold in religion 
and seekers to come forward, two benches were soon 
filled. As they came to the seats prepared, they 
fell upon their knees, and each seemed deeply en- 
gaged for himself. There was some noise, but no 
extravagance. The agonizing sigh and groan were 
heard to escape the burdened heart; the prayer of 
the believer mingled with that of the penitent seeker; 
an occasional burst of praise was heard, and at times 
the hearty amen, which seemed to speak from the 
heart, " Lord, even so let it be" One, at least, of the 
seekers obtained pardon, and we had reason to believe 
that several cold professors were reclaimed from their 
backslidings. 

FIERY TRIALS. 

Not long after those precious showers of grace 
our spiritual horizon was overcast with dark and 
threatening clouds. Almost every thing had changed 
as it respected the little company of white members 
who had enjoyed such refreshings from the presence 
of God the previous year. One of those brethren 
had removed to Pittsburg. The farmer and his wife, 
who had been such a help to us, had left. His suc- 
cessor made no pretensions to religion. A most un- 
happy difficulty arose among several of the white 
residents, involving two members of the Church, and 
resulted in the expulsion of one and the withdrawal 
of the other from the Church. The dispute was so 
connected with the affairs of the Indians as to involve 



112 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

them also. For a time it really seemed as if the 
powers of darkness would prevail. These were to 
us hours of sadness. Our faith in God was put to 
the severest test. But the cloud at length passed 
over, and the bright Sun of righteousness again shone 
upon us. 

In the early part of the summer the society was 
arranged in three classes — one a juvenile class, con- 
sisting of those who had recently united with the 
Church. I took charge of this class as leader. 

The following facts were noted as occurring on 
Friday, July 10th. It was observed as a day of 
fasting and prayer, preparatory to our communion. 
We met at five o'clock, A. M., for prayer meeting. 
Had a general attendance and a good meeting. In 
the evening I met the juvenile class, most of whose 
members joined the Church last winter. There were 
ten present, and I was glad to find them all enter- 
taining a hope of heaven and a determination to live 
a Christian life. 

• I have been thus particular to show that, with all 
the difficulties and discouragements we had to meet, 
we were still enabled to say, " The best of all is, God 
is with us." 

TRAVELS. 

Though my work was mostly confined to Kewa- 
wenon, I traveled some during the year. Some ac- 
count of a trip made on snow-shoes must suffice. 
It was in some respects one of the most laborious 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 113 

and painful journeys of my life. On the 6th of 
January I left the mission, accompanied by two able- 
bodied Indians, to visit a band of Indians at Grand 
Island, a distance of a hundred and twenty miles. 
The chief Monomonee and his family had embraced 
religion and united with our Church under the labors 
of Rev. George W. Brown. They belonged properly 
to the mission at Saut Ste. Marie, but were farther 
from that station than from us, and were thus mostly 
deprived of the labors of a Christian pastor. The 
Catholic priest told some of our Indians that he had 
received an invitation from Monomonee to come and 
Christianize those Indians. I doubted the correct- 
ness of the report; but, as I was informed that the 
priest was intending to go immediately to Grand 
Island to accomplish this end, and was prepared to 
make the Indians liberal offers, if they would consent 
to settle near his mission and become Catholics, I 
felt it my duty to go before him, and, with the help 
of God, defeat his proselyting attempts. The desired 
end was accomplished. The priest followed me, and 
made but a brief stay with the Indians. Years after 
this I was permitted to see the chief and his family 
settled with our Indians at Naomikong, firmly at- 
tached to Protestant Christianity, and constant wor- 
shipers with us. 

outfit. 

Our outfit for this journey consisted of snow- 
shoes, two small axes, a gun, a cedar snow-shovel to 



114 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

clear away snow for our encampment, a small sail to 
stretch over our camp for covering, blankets, about 
sixty pounds of provisions — mostly pork and flour, 
tea, coffee, sugar, etc. — a camp -kettle, frying-pan, 
tin-cups, etc. This load was all carried by my guides 
except my two blankets, Bible, hymn-book, etc., which 
made up my pack. We had no dog-train — an article 
seldom used in that region. 

Our journey led mostly through a dense forest, 
with not even a trail, and little to guide us, except 
some indistinct marks recognized only by Indians. 
Sometimes we crossed a chain of little lakes, and 
occasionally we clambered along the rocky shore of 
Lake Superior, and then made the detour of deep 
bays, over a sandy and less rugged shore. We forced 
our way through several cedar swamps, where we had 
often either to climb over or creep under fallen brush 
and timber. We usually traveled from twenty to 
thirty-five miles a day; once about forty miles. At 
noon we stopped just long enough to take a cold 
lunch, near some place where we could obtain water, 
and then we continued our march till after sundown. 
The last day on our way down we traveled till mid- 
night by the light of the moon. Our labor was by 
no means ended when we stopped for the night. The 
snow, two to three feet deep, must be shoveled away 
to make a place for our camp; boughs must be cut 
and spread down to serve the double purpose of floor 
and bed; wood must be chopped to keep a good fire 
all night — and, if very cold, we usually burnt a huge 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 115 

pile. Next our supper must be prepared. It was 
generally nine or ten o'clock before we were ready 
to wrap up in our blankets and give our eyes to 
sleep. The next morning we must be up at four 
or five o'clock, cook our breakfast, and perform the 
same arduous toil. 

On the evening of the fourth day we reached 
Carp river, near the now flourishing town of Mar- 
quette. Here was then one solitary wigwam, occu- 
pied by an Indian family. I had worn my mocca- 
sins through; my feet were both badly blistered, 
and my limbs so wearied that I could scarcely drag 
my snow-shoes along. The sight of a human hab- 
itation, though but an Indian lodge, gave me such 
joy that I was involuntarily moved to tears. Here 
we were warmly received. One of the men had just 
taken a deer. Mah-je-ge-zhiti 's wife made us a warm 
cake, cooked venison and some potatoes, and made 
us a dish of tea — all neatly and well served, and 
which had a relish not common at sumptuous feasts. 
Our hostess then dried and mended my moccasins, 
and seemed to take pleasure in doing all she could 
to minister to our wants. The next day was Sat- 
urday. We reached the Island, by traveling forty 
miles, about midnight. This hard day's work was 
too much for me, and I was quite unwell during the 
Sabbath.* I remained at the Island till Tuesday 

* Sunday afternoon we crossed over the Bay, and staid for the night 
with Mr. Williams, of whom we purchased provisions the next morning 
for our return voyage. 



116 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

noon, held several meetings with the Indians, and 
found them in a low state of religion ; but they made 
new vows to lead a more devoted Christian life. We 
were kindly received, and they professed unwavering 
attachment to our Church. I gave them a copy of 
St. John's Gospel and a hymn-book — both in the 
Ojibwa language — exhorted them to faithfulness, and 
set out for Kewawenon. 

By the severe exercise on the way down I had 
lamed my ankle. It was what the Indians call snow- 
shoe-lameness, arising from overstraining of the ten- 
dons. It is very painful when the limb must be 
exercised, and permanent relief can hardly be obtained 
only by rest from the labor that causes it. We had 
traveled only a few miles when I had not strength in 
my ankle to carry the snow-shoe, and yet could not 
walk without. In this emergency I tied a string to 
the fore-end of the snow-shoe, which at every step I 
raised with the left hand. A hard way to walk, but 
it must be that or nothing. The next morning, after 
going about five miles, I was compelled to stop. We 
had scarcely made our camp before the priest passed 
us on his way down. I had a short interview with 
him, and told him that the Indians had not sent for 
him. He was resolved to go on and see them, which 
was his privilege. Here I went through a course of 
Indian treatment. My ankle was lacerated with a 
sharp flint, and rubbed with liniment. I was some- 
what relieved the next morning, and we were off by 
five o'clock. We followed the priest's track, by 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 117 

moonlight, till the day dawned. After the first two 
or three hours of each day I could walk only by aid 
of the string as before. Thursday we made about 
twenty-five miles ; Friday about thirty ; my lameness 
abating but little. Saturday morning we were off 
before day. One of my men now served me a perfect 
Indian trick. W. B. was a great walker. Early in 
the morning he passed Gr. and me, and traveled that 
day within twenty miles of home. He went into the 
mission early on Sabbath morning, and told Mrs. P. 
that he had left us about sixty miles off — which was 
true — that I was so lame as hardly to be able to 
walk, and that we were just out of provisions. The 
impression was made that we were in a sad predica- 
ment, sure enough. 

Saturday evening found us about thirty miles from 
our morning camp. Here we stopped early, and 
chopped wood to last us over the Sabbath, and re- 
solved to rest and await the result. 

The flour we procured of the trader was sour, and 
we had sour, heavy bread all the way, which would 
have been indigestible but for our hard exercise. 
But this was nearly spent, and for meat and drink 
we were on short allowance. We rested in our camp 
till two o'clock, Monday morning, when we were 
again feeling our way through the forest by the aid 
of a bright moonlight. By sunrise we had reached 
Huron Bay, having traveled over half a day's march 
on our way down. About eight o'clock we met two 
Indians, who had been dispatched with a supply of 



118 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

provisions for us. Short as was our allowance, we 
had still a cold lunch left, and could have reached home 
on the strength of that. I felt provoked that W. B. 
should have occasioned my family and friends such 
unnecessary anxiety and trouble. After a wearisome 
forced march of about thirty-five miles, we reached 
home by two o'clock, P. M., having traveled at least 
two hundred and forty miles in less than two weeks, 
including all our delays. We often have accounts 
of the herculean labors performed by our pioneer 
ministers, who have had to travel three or four hun- 
dred miles on horseback in as many weeks. If our 
northern missionaries should only relate their unvar- 
nished story, they might at least claim to know some- 
thing respecting the toil and sacrifice of itinerant 
life, not on horseback, but on foot. Speaking from 
experience, we must be allowed to speak with a 
degree of confidence. 

HANDICRAFT. 

The missionary at so remote a post must be able 
to adapt himself to almost any exigency. We had, 
the previous fall, ordered a box of clothing from 
Detroit, including shoes for the family. The box 
came as far as the Saut, and was there detained all 
winter. Meanwhile Mrs. P. and Carrie were becom- 
ing almost destitute of shoes. I procured sole-leather 
of a neighbor, cut uppers out of some boot-tops, made 
my own lasts, and, being mostly confined to the 
house with lameness for several days, I made shoes 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 119 

for my wife and daughter, modeled after the " latest 
fashion" of Lake Superior. 

During the summer the country swarmed with sur- 
veyors, geologists, and men of all ranks and grades, 
in search of fortunes in the minerals which just began 
to be developed. Several of the Indians were em- 
ployed as guides, packers, and voyageurs, which ma- 
terially abated our forces at the mission. Three miles 
from us, near the head of the Bay, a saw-mill was in 
process of erection — an improvement greatly needed. 
On the third day of August the first election for the 
town of L'Anse was held at our school-house. The 
officers were J. B., moderator; B. F. R., J. K., and 
A. W. D., inspectors; and, in their scarcity of ma- 
terial, I was chosen clerk. Thirty- two votes were 
polled. Most of the voters came out of the woods, 
and returned after the election. Elections were held 
also at other places in the mineral regions; but, 
from some failure to meet the requirements of law, 
the elections were rendered null and void, and the 
country was left again, as it had been, literally with- 
out law. 

At the close of the summer we left the mission to 
attend conference, and make some transient visits 
among esteemed friends below. We coasted in open 
boat to Copper Harbor, thence were conveyed to the 
Saut Ste. Marie by the propeller Independence, and 
by various public conveyances reached our friends in 
Ohio. After a short stay we returned to Michigan. 
Mrs. P. and Carrie remained with our friends in 



120 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Adrian, and I proceeded to Marshall, the seat of our 
conference. Many interesting circumstances were 
connected with those visits, but I must not tax the 
patience of the reader with them. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 121 



CHAPTER VII. 

PERILS ON THE DEEP. 

Having for three years been deprived of the priv- 
ilege of meeting in conference, the interview I had 
enjoyed with my ministerial brethren was one of 
interest and profit. I was reappointed to the Kewa- 
wenon mission, with a roving commission from Bishop 
Janes to explore the mining region, and do what I 
could to establish religious worship among the miners. 
Rev. J. W. Holt was appointed as my assistant to 
teach the school, and attend to the wants of the mis- 
sion in my absence. Conference ended, I repaired 
to Adrian, where I was joined by my family. Mrs. 
P.'s father accompanied us. After a short stay at 
Detroit we soon arrived at the Saut, via Mackinaw. 
During the several days in which we were detained 
at the Saut, embracing one Sabbath, it was our priv- 
ilege to enjoy the genial sunlight of missionary life 
with other missionaries. 

On the morning of the 15th of October the ground 
was covered with snow ; but as the sun arose it soon 
disappeared. 

In the afternoon the wind was fair for going up 
Lake Superior. After dark we were called on board 
the schooner Fur Trader. A very rainy night en- 



122 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

sued. We had soon weighed anchor, and were dis- 
puting our way with the rapid current of the St. 
Mary's. 

Friday, 16th, two o'clock, A. M. Strong wind driv- 
ing us at the rate of ten knots per hour. All were 
cheerful at the thought of a quick trip. But how 
illusive are some of our most joyous hopes ! Like 
the mirage, seen in the distance, hope is only be- 
gotten to add weight to disappointment. We had 
passed White Fish Point, fifty miles from the Saut, 
and all was well. We sat down in the morning to 
breakfast, on homely sailor fare. It was about eight 
o'clock. No one dreamed of being interrupted before 
breakfast was over. Just now one of the sailors cried 
out, " Captain, it looks rather squally !" No sooner 
said than Captain It. dropped his knife and fork, and 
was on deck. Order was given to reef the mainsail. 
It was promptly done. Captain It. cried again, "Reef 
the foresail." "Ay, ay, sir." And the foresail was 
reefed. All interpreted these signs to have an im- 
portant meaning. At ten o'clock the storm had greatly 
increased; hard rain and cold withal. Wind had 
hauled round more to the north. At twelve the seas 
ran very high, raging as if some angry spirit had 
troubled the mighty deep. Our schooner rose upon 
the waves, and then plunged her bows into the foam- 
ing deep, groaning at every plunge. 

She was heavily freighted. Forward she had on 
a quantity of hay, a horse, and other live stock. 
The hay soon became filled with water, from the seas 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 123 

which swept over us. Abaft, her deck was stowed 
with barrels, two deep, even on the top with the rail- 
ing. When a hard squall struck her, it would lay her 
over " on her beam ends" and, much of the time, the 
upper tier of barrels on the larboard deck was under 
water. She consequently made bad weather. Mean- 
while one of the davits, or tackle, to hold up the boat, 
gave way and dropped one end of the yawl. Order 
was given to cut the boat loose, which was done, and 
for some time it was towed with a large rope. But 
soon the rope broke, and now our yawl was seen 
floating, bottom up, with the hay which had just been 
thrown overboard. The pump was kept in operation 
most of the time. Captain R., who stood at the helm 
all the time, was in a most exposed condition ; some- 
times in water up to his knees, and then forced, with 
the violence of the waves, from side to side of the 
steerage deck. We were now in the vicinity of the 
Grand Sable, a little east of the Pictured Rocks, 
about thirty miles from Grand Island. We had hoped 
to reach the Island, where there is a harbor secure 
from all winds, but this was now found to be impossi- 
ble. It only remained for us to be driven ashore, 
with all the peril to which this would expose us, or to 
make the attempt to get back under the lee of White 
Fish Point, about fifty* miles distant. The latter 
alternative the Captain chose. We wore ship, as the 

* In mentioning distances perfect accuracy must not be expected. In 
the Repository this was set down at sixty miles. The last mentioned is 
probably nearer correct. 



124 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

sailors say, and succeeded in clearing the shore ; and, 
sailing at a rapid rate, we rounded White Fish Point 
in safety, and, getting into comparatively smooth 
water, by ten o'clock at night we were very much 
rejoiced to hear the Captain give orders to let go 
the anchor. 

I have given only a faint description of the scene 
without. If all was storm without, all was far from 
being calm within. Most of the crew and passengers 
were irreligious, and the voice of God, which spoke 
amidst the warring elements, was not in soothing ac- 
cents to such as were at enmity with him. It was a 
sober time to all on board. The most daring and pro- 
fane seemed awe-struck. One man who was not in 
the habit of praying in a calm, said he " guessed 
there were none on board but that prayed." Another 
said, "I think I shall not be found at the billiard- 
table very soon again." The cook, a colored man, 
was frightened nearly out of his wits. A female was 
terribly alarmed. " We shall all go to the bottom," 
said she, frequently. Bitterly did she lament having 
left a comfortable home, to suffer such hardships and 

dangers. " 0, Mr. ," said she, " do pray for 

us." Many silent prayers ascended to heaven, but 
it was rather inconvenient to hold a public prayer 
meeting, when each was so sick as scarcely to be able 
to hold up his head. 

Our boat was long, narrow, and flat, setting at 
defiance the symmetry and proportion of the ship- 
builder's art, but, withal, was an admirable sailer. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 125 

Her cabin, if such it may be called, was small — only 
four berths, and not any too neat. The table was 
without legs, and shoved up and down a center-post, 
supported by a wooden pin. When not needed it was 
shoved overhead. A small stove stood in the cor- 
ner near the hatchway. Such was the boat into which 
we were crowded. Two Indian girls had gained ad- 
mittance into one of the berths, the others were 
resigned to those who had women and children. The 
floor as well as the berths was stowed full. And 
those who could find no room here, found such ac- 
commodations as they could in the hold. 

The storm came on so suddenly that there was not 
time to clear away the breakfast dishes; these were 
huddled down on the floor by the stove. Scarcely 
had the storm struck us, before the stove tumbled, 
bottom upward, among the breakfast dishes. The 
violent tossings of the boat, the scent of bilge-water, 
which escaped through a hole in the floor, the strange 
sights and sounds all around us, gave every one a 
disposition to part with his breakfast; and a scene 
ensued so ludicrous as to excite our risibles in the 
midst of all our peril. 

Our situation was extremely uncomfortable; we 

could have no fire, and could not keep dry. "With an 

overcoat on I was wet throughout. Several large 

waves poured down upon us through the hatchway. 

The large seas dashing against the side of the boat, 

forced water through the berths, from one side to the 

other. We were literally drenched, and became much 
11 



126 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

chilled before we could have fire again — not till after 
ten o'clock at night. But praise to an overruling 
Providence for our rescue from the dangers to which 
we were exposed! Several causes conduced to this 
under the blessing of a good God. Our boat had 
recently been fitted up with new sails ; about the time 
we began to wear ship, the wind hauled about two 
points to westward, which enabled us to clear the 
shore; but added to these were the self-possession 
and fidelity of Captain R. and his crew. They will 
ever have the gratitude of the passengers for their 
conduct during this severe storm. 

We lay at anchor till the next morning after break- 
fast. Having lost our boat, it was agreed to run back 
to the Saut and get another. Wind being in our 
favor, we set sail and dropped anchor at the head of 
the Rapids just after dark. We now landed and 
walked through the mud to Fort Brady, a mile dis- 
tant, and put up with the Chaplain. All were sur- 
prised at our speedy return. It will not be thought 
very strange that, after the perils and exposures on 
the deep, just named, the following day, which was 
the holy Sabbath, was to us one of the best Sabbaths 
of all our life. 

While at the Saut, Captain B., of another boat, 
came aboard, either on business or from curiosity. 
He had the audacity to charge our mishaps to the 
preachers and the women. He might also have in- 
cluded the cats, for there was one aboard during the 
storm. He said that he "never knew it to fail — with 






MISSIONARY LIFE. 127 

women and preachers aboard, sailors were sure to 
have storms." It seems that, since the sad affair of 
poor Jonah, preachers must be made the scape-goats, 
to bear off the sins of the Tars. Why the fair sex 
should influence the spirit of storms against our 
friends of the deep, it is hard to conceive, unless it 
be for the many long and painful neglects they have 
suffered from those who have followed the sea. Be 
this as it may, Mr. B. himself, who was a fearless 
sailor and a daring sinner, was not proof against 
storms. He was one of the unfortunate company 
who perished on the schooner Merchant, in the sum- 
mer of 1847. 

After a detention of another week at the Saut, 
trudging back and forth over the muddy Portage, 
now called aboard by the captain, with a prospect 
of fair wind, and then debarking in disappointment, 
really fearing that we must winter at the Saut, we 
left port once more, and till we landed at Grand Is- 
land encountered another storm but little inferior 
to the one above described. Nearly all the passengers 
became desperately seasick. The greatest sufferers 
were, perhaps, my wife and daughter. 

GRAND ISLAND. 

This is a large island, as its name imports, situated 
near the southern shore of Lake Superior, nearly 
midway from the Saut to Kewawenon. The soil is 
generally good. It is well timbered, principally with 
birch, maple, and beech. 



128 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

Mr. W. came here in an early day and took up 
his residence. He had a numerous family growing 
around him. One of his daughters had married and 
settled by him. In the fall of 1845 she came, accom- 
panied by her lover, in a small boat to Kewawenon, 
a hundred and twenty miles, to be sacrificed on the 
hymeneal altar. The writer felt himself not a little 
honored by this visit from his neighbors of the Island, 
especially as he was called upon to perform the 
solemn rite. 

At this island is one of the most beautiful and com- 
modious harbors to be found any where. 

Wednesday, 28th, was a beautiful morning, enliv- 
ened by a bland south breeze. After a good rest 
on shore, where we shared the generous hospitality 
of Mr. W.'s family, at twelve o'clock, M., we were 
again called on board. At four, P. M., we were 
nearly becalmed. At sunset the wind was slightly 
ahead. During the night we beat with some success. 
Thursday morning Presque Isle was south, in sight, 
and Granite Island .several miles ahead. We could 
now lay our course for Kewawenon. We had a rough 
sea all day. But by the blessing of a gracious Prov- 
idence, the same evening we dropped anchor in the 
Bay, near the Methodist mission. We were now soon 
surrounding our own cheerful fire, to recount, with 
gratitude, the goodness of God to us during a long 
and perilous voyage. Never before did home seem 
so sweet. 

November 1st, the Sabbath after our return, was 






MISSIONARY LIFE. 129 

a memorable day to us. The Indians came out in 
the morning, and brother H. preached them a good 
practical sermon. In the afternoon I preached to the 
few white residents, from Hebrews xiii, 12-14, dwell- 
ing particularly on the latter part, " Here we have 
no continuing city." I was blessed with great free- 
dom, and considerable enlargement in speaking. The 
congregation were melted into tears. The subject, 
applicable as it is to men at all times, was especially 
so at this time. Death had, during our absence, in- 
vaded our ranks among the Indians. He had dealt 
a terrible blow upon our small white settlement in 
the very sudden death of Mr. J., the carpenter, who 
was cut down in the prime and vigor of life. He 
died, we trust, not without hope in Christ. The text 
did not tend more to impress us with the past than 
to admonish us of the future. In the congregation 
was a Mr. B., a respectable and worthy member of 
a sister Church. He was the agent of a mine at 
Silver Mountain, as it was called, about fifteen miles 
off. His leisure time he spent at our place. He 
seemed to enjoy much the privilege of worshiping 
with us. The following Sabbath he spoke in our 
class meeting of his strong confidence in God, and 
of his determination to stand, at all times, as a wit- 
ness for the Savior. That week was not half gone 
before I saw the dead body of Mr. B. taken out of 
Sturgeon river, where he had been drowned. He 
had loaded a small bark canoe with vegetables. Ac- 
companied by two men he attempted to reach Silver 



130 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Mountain by water. He had crossed the Bay, entered 
Portage river, passed thence into Sturgeon river, 
where he had gone only a short distance before, run- 
ning upon a large snag, he broke a hole through the 
canoe, and, in attempting to escape, was drowned. 
The two men made their escape, got out the canoe, 
and came down the river in one end, after having 
cut it in two. Such was the sad fate of Mr. B. Nor 
was the fate of the Company any less disastrous than 
that of their worthy agent. The succeeding season 
they rallied afresh to prosecute the work at Silver 
Mountain. They sent on a new agent, and new re- 
cruits of men and means. They all reached the Saut 
de Ste. Marie in safety. They left the Saut, bound 
for the mine, on the schooner Merchant, and have 
never since been heard of. A small fragment of the 
wreck is all that has been discovered of this sad 
catastrophe. Mining has not since been prosecuted 
at Silver Mountain. Indeed it has never been a mine, 
only in prospect. The location was a bone of con- 
tention when first made, and has ended in disappoint- 
ment to all, and in irreparable loss to some. Thus 
does wealth often elude the grasp of those that would 
be rich, and the glory of the world passes away. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 131 



CHAPTER VIII. 

WORK AMONG THE MINERS — KEWAWENON 
MISSION. 

The week after our arrival at Kewawenon we suc- 
ceeded in securing our crop and in arranging affairs 
at the mission preparatory to my expected absence 
among the miners. 

The great show of native copper, at the Cliff Mine, 
had but recently been discovered, which was looked 
upon as one of the world's wonders. Mining at that 
locality was prosecuted very briskly. The brightening 
prospect here gave a new impetus to mining all 
through the mineral region. Companies had been 
formed and mining forces concentrated, in various 
places, scattered over Point Kewenaw, and also in 
the vicinity of the On-to-na-gon river. As yet the 
foundation of Christian institutions had not been laid. 
It was to plant the Rose of Sharon among the craggy 
rocks of that desolate region that such a mission was 
contemplated. 

FIRST VISIT AMONG THE MINERS. 

November the 10th, I left home in company with 
two young men from Point Kewenaw, to visit and 
preach among the miners, as opportunity offered. 



132 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Took with me a heavy Indian blanket and a pair 
of snow-shoes. The young men with whom I took 
passage, had a small Mackinaw boat. In this each 
took his appropriate station, one to steer, the others 
to row. The first day, which turned out to be rainy 
and disagreeable, we crossed over to the mouth of 
Portage river, twelve miles and a half. Here we 
found a number of- miners encamped, all looking seri- 
ous as the grave; word had just reached them that 
Mr. Barber, before mentioned, was drowned. We 
tarried here for the night, and the next morning pur- 
sued our journey up Portage river into Portage Lake, 
thence to the mouth of Sturgeon river, where we 
aided in the search for the body of Mr. Barber. It 
was soon found, and taken to Kewawenon. Turning 
away from this affecting scene, we made our way 
through the eastern arm of Portage Lake ; thence by 
Torch river into and across Torch Lake. A mile and 
a half by land, brought us to the Douglas Houghton 
Company's Works. These were situated in a narrow 
chasm, between two precipitous bluffs, on the banks 
of a delightful brook, like the fountain of life itself, 
ever flowing and clear. A little above it forms a 
beautiful cascade, leaping down from the top of the 
southern bluff, dashing and foaming over its uneven 
bed, keeping up a perpetual roar. Much labor and 
money were spent here to no purpose, and the works 
have since been abandoned. We were comfortably 
and cordially entertained. 

Thursday, the 12th, we traveled on foot to the Cliff 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 133 

Mine, a distance of about sixteen miles. Part of 
our way was a passable road, newly cut through the 
dense forest; the other was a rough trail over hills 
and valleys. It led by several locations where com- 
fortable log-houses had been erected and mining 
briskly prosecuted. But several of these locations 
have been abandoned, and the moldering ruins ad- 
monish us how often men draw blanks from the lot- 
tery of human fortune. I might mention each of 
the stations visited, and at each find something profit- 
able for reflection; but this would perhaps tax un- 
necessarily the reader's patience. Let it suffice that 
I traveled over Point Kewenaw to nearly all the loca- 
tions, making, in this circuit, about one hundred and 
ninety miles — fifty-five by water, and the rest by 
land. I had the privilege of proclaiming the Gospel 
eleven times — in some places where the cross of 
Christ had never before been preached. Every-where 
I met the warmest reception and many marks of 
favor, which I shall always remember and prize. 

On my return home from this trip I lost my way 
in a dreary wilderness, which was to me an occasion 
of much fatigue and peril. As I can not but own 
the hand of a kind Providence in my deliverance, I 
will give a brief account of the circumstances. The 
night of the last day of November I slept at the 
Douglas Houghton location, on my return home. 
Already the ground was covered with snow some 
inches deep. Torch Lake was yet open; but the 
river forming its outlet was frozen over for three 



134 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

miles and a half. Water communication to Kewa- 
wenon was thus interrupted, and I was compelled to 
go by land most of the way. Had hoped here to 
procure company^ but no one could be spared from 
the mines to go any distance. Mr. F. D. and another 
person consented to go with me across Torch Lake, 
and down the river where it was frozen, to a place 
where some of their stores had been left. 

We left about eight o'clock, A. M. It was snow- 
ing very fast, and continued most of the day. We 
had soon crossed the Lake — about three and a half 
miles wide — in a boat; then we walked on the ice till 
we came to the Company's stores. Here my friends 
loaded their hand-train and returned. I went into 
the woods, and attempted to cross the strip of land 
between Portage Lake and Kewenaw Bay. Directly 
across it was only about eight miles; but there was 
neither road, nor trail, nor footprint of a human being 
to be seen. My first search was for a surveyor's 
line. Found several trees blazed, but could trace 
no regular line. I had a small pocket-compass — at 
best an uncertain guide in a mineral region; but it 
was not long before the glass came out, and it was 
useless to me. I was now left to guess out my way, 
without even the semblance of a guide. 

The snow was now about six inches deep, and con- 
tinually falling — enough to make walking hard with- 
out snow-shoes, but not enough for walking with 
them. To carry them was an incumbrance; but I 
dared not leave them, not knowing how soon I might 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 135 

need them. These, together with my blanket and 
other parts of my outfit, weighed about twenty 
pounds. My eatables consisted of six biscuits. I 
had also a small hatchet — too small for any thing but 
to blaze trees and to cut off small limbs. So armed I 
plunged into the forest, climbing hills and plodding 
through valleys and swamps. At noon, seated on a 
log, I dined on a biscuit and a half— net such bis- 
cuits, by the way, as our good sisters often get up 
when visited by the itinerant. Those biscuits had 
never seen a lady's fingers; they were sorry food, 
suitable to the occasion. But they were the best our 
poor bachelors could afford — such as they were accus- 
tomed to eat, freely given, thankfully received, and 
eaten with thanks to Him who has assured us that 
" man shall not live by bread alone." 

Thus refreshed, I addressed myself anew to the 
task before me. From this time I was governed by 
the distant roar of waves ahead. The trees and 
bushes were heavily loaded with snow, so as to make 
it very wet overhead, and the low and swampy land 
was not yet frozen. With my clothes and moccasins 
literally soaked, I had very sensible impressions, if 
not the most agreeable. 

Night overtook me in the midst of a cedar swamp. 
One who has never traveled through such swamps 
can scarcely have an idea with how much difficulty 
this is attended. He must climb over fallen brush 
and timber; often creep on his hands and knees 
under logs and limbs, and press through the thick 



136 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

underwood. Such traveling is fatiguing in the best 
weather and with every possible help; but with the 
obstructions I met it was almost impossible to make 
headway. I looked about for some time for a suit- 
able place to camp. At length I came to a small 
spot of comparativly dry land, on which stood a large 
hemlock, surrounded by smaller trees, mostly balsam. 
With some effort I made a fire at the roots of that 
hemlock. I then cut small poles, and leaned them 
against the tree, covering them with balsam boughs, 
so as to afford temporary shelter; spreading boughs 
on the snow within for floor and carpet. I now 
endeavored to provide wood for the night, which 
gave me no little labor, as good wood was hardly 
to be found, and worse to be cut into pieces with a 
poor tool. It was ten o'clock at night before I fin- 
ished this task, and even then I had not a supply. 
Before morning I had to chop more or be without fire. 
By this time I was forcibly reminded that my sup- 
per hour had arrived. But I was so exhausted that 
I felt little inclined to eat; half a biscuit served my 
turn. As night closed in it commenced raining, and 
continued, with little abatement, through the night. 
The wind howled among the tree-tops, and the roar 
of distant waves fell on my ear. I tried to dry my 
wet clothes; and, commending myself and my all to 
God, wrapped me up in my blanket, and laid me 
down to sleep. But this was nearly out of the ques- 
tion. Without constant attention the rain would put 
out my fire; otherwise I could have slept soundly. 



MISSIONAEY LIFE. 137 

I had now a good opportunity to test the support 
religion can give when all other help is cut off. In 
the possession of that which 



" Gives even affliction a grace, 
And reconciles man to his lot," 

I was enabled to 

u Give to the winds my fears, 
Hope, and be undismayed." 

I felt not the least doubt concerning the final issue; 
nor did the raging elements disturb my inward tran- 
quillity. 

Early on the morning of the 2d I arose, and, after 
offering up praise for past mercies, and imploring 
divine protection for the coming day, I partook of 
such luxury as the place would afford for break- 
fast — a biscuit, ready baked. Now shouldering my 
pack, I left this temporary abode, scarcely knowing 
whither I was bound. The sun was obscured by 
clouds, and considerable rain fell during the forenoon. 
I bent my course toward the roaring of the waves. 
What was my surprise, when I came out, to find 
that I was on the shore of Portage Lake, instead of 
Kewenaw Bay! In bearing too far to the west, I 
added much to the distance and had more swampy 
land. 

Retracing my steps back into the woods, I endeav- 
ored to steer my course more to the south-east. But 
it was, at best, mostly guess-work. Let me turn 
which way I would, almost impassable cedar swamps 



138 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

seemed to beset me. After some time I came in 
sight of a broad sheet of water, which, at first glance, 
I took to be Kewenaw Bay, but soon discovered my 
error. At any rate, I concluded to go to the water, 
if possible, hoping to be able to follow along shore, 
and come out somewhere. But a bad swamp was 
between, which I made three ineffectual attempts to 
cross. It was miry, and matted with brush and 
timber. 

My situation now became very perplexing. I was 
drenched thoroughly with rain and snow-water. Be- 
ing much exhausted from constant and severe exer- 
cise, I became very thirsty, and drank several times 
of water which stood in hollow places. But this 
increased rather than allayed thirst. At one time 
I made a circle, and came again on my own tracks. 
Said I within myself, "What Indian has been along 
here ?" for I took it, at first, to be the track of an 
Indian hunter; but a moment's attention showed me 
that it was the print of my own moccasin. I was 
obliged, at frequent intervals, to stop and rest; found 
it quite burdensome to drag myself along. Lest I 
should become faint and stupid, and perhaps chill to 
death, as many others in similar situations, I stopped 
to make a fire and rest awhile. But, first eating a 
biscuit, I felt somewhat revived, and went on again. 
Now, for the first time since I had entered the woods, 
the sun, for a few moments, looked down on me 
through the opening clouds. It was about two o'clock, 
P. M. I was enabled by this means to lay my course. 






MISSIONARY LIFE, 139 

Walking a little longer brought me to Portage river, 
not far from Kewenaw Bay. I followed down the 
shore till I came to a Pine point, from which to the 
Entry — mouth of Portage river— it was only a mile 
straight across. The beautiful Bay was in full view, 
and the high land in the rear of the mission at Kewa- 
wenon. With the fine prospect ahead, my muscles 
seemed to gather fresh elasticity. 

But I was not yet out. Between me and the Entry 
was a low marsh, at that time full of water. To go 
round this would cost me about four miles' walking. 
Which would be best — to try to wade through, or to 
go round? I chose the first. But I soon found hard 
wading; proceeded perhaps thirty-five rods, by stop- 
ping several times to rest. At length I came to a 
full stop. The further I went the worse it became, 
and I despaired of getting across. Was about to 
turn back, and do the next best thing, but, casting 
my eyes down toward the Entry, I saw two sails. 
With a stiff breeze aft, they were making up the 
river. Hope again revived; help appeared to be 
approaching at a time most needed. I had waited 
only , a few moments till two boats arrived. James 
Tanner was in one; his wife and children in the 
other. They were going up the river after wood. 
They came to my relief. I went aboard the small 
boat, and exchanged wading for rowing, while Mrs. 
Tanner managed the helm. James went on and pro- 
cured his wood. We soon reached the bark-covered 
cabin, and had a good fire. Dry clothes were fur- 



140 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

nishecl, and some warm food soon provided. My 
appetite returned^ and I began once more to feel 
like myself. The past scarcely looked like reality. 
The night following it snowed, and the wind blew 
as if to unroof our cabin. And this might have 
been done, had not my host gone up and nailed the 
barks two or three times. I need make no remarks 
respecting my own feelings, in view of the difference 
between my situation in that humble dwelling, and 
what it would have been out in that storm. 

The next day I had a pretty severe walk of about 
thirteen miles, over a rough trail, to the Catholic 
mission, where I arrived at four o'clock, P. M. Soon 
obtained an Indian and his son, who took me in a small 
bark canoe, and carried me across the Bay, where, 
just at nightfall, I set foot into our own door, and 
realized once more what the poet meant when he said, 

" Home, sweet home ! 
Be it ever so homely, there 's no place like home." 

If the writer of this imperfect sketch, and those into 
whose hands it may fall, shall at last gain that sweet 
home in the skies, we shall never find reason to regret 
the roughness of the way. 



MISSIONARY LIFE 



141 



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142 



LIGHTS AND SHADES 



1 


Thanksgiving sermon from Psalm 
cvii, 1. 

Several companies visited afterward, 
and some not visited, are not in this 
enumeration. The total number of 
persons on Point Kewenaw must have 
been about five hundred, besides those 
at the Ontonagon. There were prob- 
ably one thousand white inhabitants 
about Lake Superior. 




Roman Catholics . . . 


1 CO 

1 CO 


Protestants 


:::::::::: 1 S 


| Profess'rsofRcligion 


:::::::::: | s 


Total Inhabitants.... 


:::::::::: is 

1 tH 


No. of Children under 
twelve years of age. 


::::::::::|3 


No. of Families .... 


I'd 

1 co 


1 

P. 

a 

6 
s 

"a 

So 


Wild beasts • • ■ 




1 

o 
| 

1 


Eagle River 

Cliff Mine...-'..'..'.. 

North American 

Cliff Mine 

Albion 

Douglas Houghton Co. 

Cedar Swamp • 

Entry 

Ke-wa-we-non 


Sermons Preached., l rH ^ ; ! rHfH * I '. '. IllJ 


Miles Traveled 


CO • CO <N •«* >o 00 CO 


© 


1 
I 
1 


Thursday, 26th. • . . 
Friday, 27th. 

a a 

Saturday, 28th. 

Sunday, 29th. 

u a 

Monday, 30th. 

Tuesday, Deo. 1st.- 
Wednesday, 2d. • • • • 
Thursday, 3d. 





MISSIONARY LIFE. 143 

SUBSEQUENT VISITS AMONG THE MINERS. 

December 23. Left Kewawenon to visit the miners 
the second time, and returned in just three weeks, 
having traveled two hundred and twelve miles, nearly 
all on foot — preached twelve times and delivered one 
temperance address, to a crowded and very attentive 
audience, at the Cliff Mine. Quite an interest was 
here waked up on this subject, and rising of thirty 
persons signed the pledge of total abstinence. A 
small class of eight persons was organized at the 
Cliff, with which we enjoyed some precious seasons 
during the year. 

Made three other visits, one in the winter and two 
during the following summer. The first visit I left 
home without scrip or purse, and, unasked, sundry 
persons contributed twenty-four dollars and a half for 
our support. The second visit they raised, of their 
:>wn free will, sixty dollars and twenty cents. And 
so on, in subsequent visits, till it amounted to about 
tvo hundred dollars. And besides, they contributed 
above sixty dollars toward the erection of our new 
church at Kewawenon. 

Tiie names of agents and mining captains, men- 
tioned in the accompanying table, were among the 
foremost in these acts of generosity. In addition to 
persons already named, I was much indebted to Mr. 
Taylor of Albion Mine, Mr. J. Senter of Eagle river, 
Mr. Shaply of Copper Falls, Mr. D. D. Brockway of 
Copper Harbor, and Judge Hawes and his estimable 



144 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

lady of Fort Wilkins, with others too tedious to name. 
Such large-heartedness is worthy of permanent rec- 
ord, as characterizing the hardy pioneers of that vast 
wilderness. May their inheritance be that "which 
maketh rich and addeth no sorrow !" 

Brother Holt visited the miners twice during the 
year. The first time he was taken sick and confined 
to his bed about eight weeks. 

I may add, in substance, what was published at the 
time, in the Western Christian Advocate, that, " after 
many a weary walk alone, through a dense wilderness, 
supported by snow-shoes, on a depth of three or four 
feet of snow, at times wading through swamps, then 
climbing mountains, crossing lakes, or following the 
meanderings of a river, on the ice — often, after such 
seasons of toil, and sometimes of danger, my soul 
has been exceedingly blessed in preaching Christ cru- 
cified to the people. And although little fruit has as 
yet appeared, I trust it will be found, in the great 
day, that our 'labor has not been in vain in the 
Lord.' This circuit, as it might be called, is over twj 
hundred miles in extent, counting the zigzag trals 
across Point Kewenaw. Each tour was generally per- 
formed in three weeks, sometimes less. This made it 
necessary to travel more or less almost every day, 
often twenty-five or thirty and even more miles a day, 
on foot, carrying a pack weighing from twelve to 
twenty pounds. It cost me, in all, about twelve hun- 
dred miles traveling, nearly eight hundred on foot and 
the rest by water. Such are some of the character- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 145 

istics of Methodist itinerancy in this region. These 
things are mentioned, not boastingly, but with the 
most grateful recollections of that Providence who 
gave me such power of endurance." 

STATE OF THINGS AT KEWAWENON. 

So far as the white residents were concerned im- 
portant changes had taken place. An entire change 
had been made in the Government men — the old ones 
had all been displaced by others. Those newly ap- 
pointed, with their families, were kind and obliging 
neighbors,, but made no pretensions to religion. The 
saw-mill near the head of the Bay was now in opera- 
tion, and several white men were there employed in 
lumbering, who often came to the mission to hear 
preaching. Two or three were persons of strict mo- 
rality, and well-wishers to the cause of religion ; but 
the others had little of the fear of God, and, by their 
example, exerted an influence hostile to piety. 

Brother Holt taught the day school and kept up 
the Sunday school and the religious meetings in my 
absence. When at home the other duties, except the 
school, were shared between us. There was much 
manual labor to be done during the year, which de- 
volved mostly on me. In the various departments of 
labor and responsibility, we had evidences of gradual 
improvement, if not of very marked success. And, 
in their place, the gently-distilling dew, the kindly 
shower, and the genial sunlight, are as necessary as 
the drenching rain and scorching sun. Many of our 



146 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

meetings during the year were seasons of refreshing 
from the presence of the Lord. In the month of 
February we were made to rejoice at the apparently- 
marked conversion of J. T. and his wife, who had once 
been Papists. On the 21st I baptized him and his 
family, and received him and his wife into the Church 
on trial. Mr. T. promised great usefulness to the 
cause of Christ. Physically he was equal to almost 
any emergency. He had also strong powers of mind, 
but affording at times pretty clear evidence of partial 
insanity. Such was the opinion of some expressed at 
this time. He spoke fluently Ojibwa, French, and 
English. His experience appeared to be deep, and 
his whole deportment most exemplary, as was also 
that of his wife. One of his little sons also furnished 
good evidence of conversion. I have never witnessed 
any where more genuine evidences of deep and heart- 
felt piety than were to be seen in this family. And 
yet I regret to state that, two or three years after- 
ward, at a remote station, he sadly fell, so as to bring 
great reproach upon the cause of Christ. But the 
details, as involving several persons, whites and In- 
dians, I must omit, as affording nothing either edi- 
fying or profitable to the reader. The fact should 
remind us of the inspired caution, "Let him that 
thinketh he standeth take heed lest he fall." 

ERECTION OF A CHURCH. 

One of the most important movements connected 
with the Kewawenon mission this year, was the build- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 147 

ing of a church. The log school-house, which had 
answered our purpose, had been rendered tolerably 
comfortable by frequent repairs. But we felt that the 
time had fully come when the mission needed a better 
house. Our limited missionary appropriation afforded 
us no help in this direction, and the prospect of 
securing the necessary means to accomplish such a 
work was at best doubtful. But we determined, with 
the help of God, to make the attempt. 

The few white people at our station, together with 
the Indians, pledged something more than a hundred 
dollars toward this object, to be paid mostly in work. 
But this was a small beginning. We called for help 
from abroad, but to this call there was no very liberal 
response, and we were thrown upon our own re- 
sources. But this imposed no little hard toil and 
care on us, in getting out and drawing the timber, 
making the shingles, drawing on the ice and boating 
the lumber from the saw-mill, planing and putting on 
the siding, and putting on the roof, much of which 
work was done with our own hands. But with the 
aid afforded us by the miners, and those at home, and 
a little help from abroad, most of which was sent to 
us by brother A. W. Brockway, of Pittsburg, we 
erected the frame and inclosed and secured it for the 
winter by the time we were called to go to another 
field. When we went to the pinery, three miles dis- 
tant, to cut the timber, before we struck a blow, the 
little company kneeled down upon the snow, and, by 
fervent prayer to God, invoked his guidance and aid, 



148 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

which wc as fully believe he afforded as that we exist. 
It was estimated that one hundred and fifty or two 
hundred dollars would complete the house, when it 
would be worth five or six hundred. Thus far it was 
free from debt. 

While we had reason to believe that the society 
connected with the mission was generally in a healthy 
and prosperous state, two circumstances occurred at 
the close of the year which gave us great pain and 
sorrow. We were obliged to lay aside two of the old 
members of the Church, but in their case there was 
yet hope — they might repent and be restored to God, 
and to the bosom of the Church. But the other evil 
was beyond remedy. On the night of the 27th of 
October three of our Indians went across the Bay to 
a trader's, purchased liquor and became intoxicated. 
They returned late at night, and one of them, too 
drunk to know what he was about, was left in the 
boat. In the morning he was found lying on the 
ground, on his face, near the water, dead! This 
story is soon told; but 0, the dreadful end of the 
drunkard ! and the curse that must fall on the head 
of him who was instrumental in the death and ruin 
of this young man! His name was Joshua Soule. 
He was a youth of fine appearance and promise, and 
an exemplary Christian till he was led into this fatal 
snare. In this fact the reader has one of the leading 
causes why the Indians are a doomed race. 

During our stay at this mission the superintendent, 
Rev. W. H. Brockway, visited us once a year. Those 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 149 

visits, few and far between, and necessarily short, 
were highly prized by us, and the more so as, for 
most of the time, we were cut off from the society 
and salutary counsel and help of our ministerial 
brethren. This remark is due also to our esteemed 
superintendent, who had been so long in labors more 
abundant to evangelize the Indians, and who never 
failed to make his mark. 

13 



150 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER IX. 

APPOINTMENT TO EAGLE RIVER MISSION— PER- 
PLEXITIES— OUR NEW FIELD. 

The Michigan annual conference met this year in 
Ypsilanti, on the 15th of September. It was more 
than a month after before we heard any thing about 
our appointment, and, even then, nothing official. 
We had never before been so comfortably fixed to 
winter at that station as now. On account of our 
new church, which had progressed thus far under our 
supervision, and some other matters not so easily 
managed by strangers, we had hoped to remain an- 
other year; on other accounts we had no special 
reason to regret a change. 

It was near the close of October, when blustering 
winds and occasional snow squalls warned us of the 
near approach of a long winter, that a breeze from 
a warmer clime, chilled in its long passage over the 
lakes, reached us, uttering, in language not to be 
misunderstood, " Arise, for this is not your rest." 
But many and formidable were the obstacles in the 
way of removal. The lateness of the season, the 
dangers of the Lake, rendered appalling by late and 
serious disasters, particularly that which happened to 
the steamer Julia Palmer, which for sixteen days had 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 151 

been at the mercy of storms — all these, aggravated 
by a report directly from Point Kewenaw that, in 
consequence of the great loss* on the Julia Palmer, 
many of the miners were almost exposed to starva- 
tion, and that provisions were not to be obtained; 
added to the fact that our own funds were nearly 
exhausted — these and other circumstances gave a 
gloomy appearance to our future prospect. But while 
reflecting on this aspect of things, I was rebuked 
by that passage from the Savior, "Behold the fowls 
of the air, for they sow not, neither do they reap, 
nor gather into barns, and yet your heavenly Father 
feedeth them." This is enough. Will God feed his 
birds and not his children? 

The want of religious society in our prospective 
field was a serious drawback on our feelings. But 
we had always made it a matter of conscience to go, 
if possible, to an appointment; and, therefore, re- 
solved to venture our all on the goodness of the 
appointing power, and, at least, throw our length 
that way. 

For a long time we had looked, in vain, for some 
vessel to bring winter supplies to the mission. For 
nearly two months, up to the 6th of November, we 
had lived on borrowed provisions, and yet none came, 
and no way seemed to open for us to get away. 

The schooner Fur Trader was expected by the 



*For want of fuel they were obliged to burn the pork, hams, etc., on 
board, to make steam to propel the boat. 



152 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

10th of November, on her way from the Saut to the 
Ontonagon. We put all things in readiness, and 
awaited her arrival with solicitude. November 10th 
came, and true to expectation the old schooner came 
in sight. Night had just dropped her dark brow 
over the face of day, when a rap was heard at the 
door of the mission. Who should be there? Who 
but one of the hardy pioneers of Lake Superior, who 
knew not what it was to shrink from toil and danger? 
Yes, it was a missionary, brother P. 0. Johnson, and 
his delicate wife, who had come about two hundred 
miles, in a bark canoe, to labor in the place of the 
old incumbents. This does not look like an assertion 
I saw some time ago in a Catholic publication, that 
Protestant missionaries did not penetrate into this 
country till "feather beds" etc., had been provided 
for them. No missionaries have labored in the true 
spirit of sacrifice more than some of the Protestant 
missionaries of this region. I need not say that they 
came unexpected, as it was the first hint we had of 
the new arrangement, only so far as we were con- 
cerned. 

November 11. The Fur Trader came to anchor 
opposite the mission. But imagine our disappoint- 
ment when we learned that she had been driven out 
of her course by adverse winds — had been to the 
Ontonagon, and was on her downward course for 
Saut Ste. Marie. Nothing could induce the captain 
to take us to Point Kewenaw. The only alternative 
now left us was to coast. We were now subjected 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 153 

to a series of perplexities and disappointments in 
procuring men, a canoe, etc., which it would be tedious 
to name. 

By the evening of the 15th of November we suc- 
ceeded, with the blessing of a kind Providence, in 
finding a good bark canoe, and two able-bodied voy- 
ageurs. Now our goods, which had been packed for 
shipping, must be overhauled, and the bare indispens- 
ables packed ship-shape for a canoe, and the remain- 
der repacked and left till spring. The whole con- 
stituted no great bulk, as we had no furniture of any 
kind. What little we had once was disposed of on 
leaving the work below. And whether we could get 
chairs, bedsteads, tables, stoves, crockery, etc., where 
we were going, without any thing to buy with, was a 
question that it would not do to try to solve. The 
truth is, means should have been sent us on the start. 
The Missionary Society had appropriated one hundred 
dollars toward our support on condition we failed to 
get our pay from the miners. But had the rigors to 
which we were constantly exposed been fully known, 
the appropriation, small as it was, could have been 
subject to no such contingency. With eight dollars 
loaned us by a friend, after a rough journey of four 
days, in which we were buffeted by the elements, 
having, in one place, for some distance, to force our 
way through ice which had closed up Portage river, 
we succeeded in reaching our new home, adoring 
that kind and merciful Providence which had kept 
us and guarded our way at every step. 



154 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

OUR NEW FIELD. 

After being very uncomfortably situated for some 
time for want of a house to live in, a place was at 
length provided for us by the Company. This would 
have been ready for us on our arrival, but our long 
detention at Kewawenon led the Company to think 
that we were not coming, and all the buildings had 
been leased. On the 29th of November, much to our 
comfort, we took possession of our new home. This 
was a cabin built of round logs, a story and a half 
high, divided below into two apartments by a board 
partition, with a wood-shed made of rough boards. 
There was no cellar, or other conveniences about the 
concern, except what were included within the build- 
ing. During the winter, when a large body of snow 
lay on the roof, as was often the case, the heat of 
the two stove-pipes, passing directly through the roof 
without chimneys, and the rarified air under the roof, 
caused the snow to melt, and the water running down 
the walls on the outside became congealed, which, on 
thawing, often forced its way inside, and made the 
house wet and uncomfortable. Our utmost vigilance 
could not wholly guard against this difficulty. But 
our cabin was a much better one than some of our 
neighbors had, and we have always felt grateful to 
the Company for giving us possession of such a home. 
It is simply mentioned here as a specimen of back- 
woods life. Added to the house, the Company kindly 
furnished us with a cooking-stove and other heavy 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 155 

furniture, which we were to use free of charge, and 
return when done with them. They also filled our 
bill of supplies in the provision line, and charged 
to my account till it could be canceled. Mr. Taylor, 
of the Albion Mine, kindly loaned us a box stove and 
some crockery. Thus all our wants were met in a 
way we had not anticipated. 

The scenes surrounding us were different from any 
to which we had before been accustomed. Mining 
must go on day and night, the constant din and bustle 
of which is often annoying to one unused to such 
business. If you retire at nine o'clock the bell ring- 
ing for a change of shifts, at ten o'clock, will awake 
you. This will be accompanied with the bustle of 
men coming from the mine, and fresh hands taking 
their place. Perhaps before you are fairly asleep 
again, you will be aroused by a car rumbling on a 
track, from the mineral shed to the stamp-house, 
where the mineral is precipitated into a large box, the 
bottom of which is an inclined plane, and thus con- 
ducted to the stamps. And then here are these six 
ponderous stamps, propelled by steam, which are 
crushing the mineral all night. Meanwhile you may 
hear the hammer and anvil and the incessant creak- 
ing of the old whim — a machine for raising copper 
from the mine — and the report of an occasional 
blast like that of cannonade. All these things make 
some noise, but the frequent fighting of several 
mules, in a barn near our dwelling, added to all the 
rest, completes the " confusion worse confounded." 



156 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Such, in substance, were our impressions penned on 
the spot. 

In the period of a year, matters had materially 
changed on Point Kewenaw. The two previous years 
the "copper fever" had raged to a great extent. 
The country swarmed with persons who were explor- 
ing it, and "laying permits," or "making claims." 
If trap rock could be found in any locality, having 
veins of quartz or spar, with or without copper, it 
was thought to be a " good indication," and forthwith 
a permit was laid, a company formed, and the stock 
divided up into shares, and these were thrown into 
the market for the highest bidder. Sometimes gen- 
tlemen from the cities, a little flush with money, but 
green enough, as it regarded the geological forma- 
tions of that region, at the sight of a few rock "speci- 
mens" without ever having seen the prospective mine, 
would eagerly catch the bait thus thrown out. Per- 
haps, on more close inspection, the mine which pre- 
sented such "good indications," was located in some 
cedar swamp or lake. 

But in many places the prospect was sufficiently 
flattering to induce the proprietors to erect buildings 
at considerable cost and prosecute mining. But these 
prospects becoming overhung with doubt, such loca- 
tions had, in many instances, been abandoned. The 
ill-directed attempts of persons who came there and 
expected to grasp an immediate fortune, without 
either capital or labor, and the extreme into which 
speculation had been carried, were now reacting, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 157 

most severely, upon the interests of the country. So 
much so that many persons abroad seriously thought 
mining operations on Lake Superior to be all a " hum- 
bug," undertaken on purpose to swindle men out of 
their money. This change in the condition of the 
country tended materially to circumscribe the sphere 
of our missionary efforts. Several locations were 
visited at different times during the year, and meet- 
ings held among the miners as opportunity offered. 
I made one trip about midwinter, to the Kewawenon 
mission, and administered the ordinances to the peo- 
ple at the request of the missionaries, neither of 
whom was ordained. In my absence Rev. J. W. Holt, 
from this mission, supplied my place. These trips 
were all made on foot, as was the customary mode of 
traveling by land. Excepting those occasional ex- 
cursions abroad, our efforts were mostly confined to 
the Cliff Mine and vicinity. 

The mixed and unsettled character of the inhab- 
itants was not very favorable to evangelical effort. 
The English miners were principally from Cornwall, 
England, and were familiarly known by the title 
"Cornish." Their dialect, though not so barbarous 
as the Yorkshire, is so different from the Anglo- 
Saxon of our own land, that an inexperienced ear is 
often at a loss to determine what is said, especially in 
rapid speech. The letter h, especially, is so much in 
the habit of straying away from home that he is sel- 
dom found where he really belongs. He usually finds 
about the following connections: "Hi will give the 



158 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

orse some floats and ayP In a school which I taught 
at the Cliff, during the winter, there were some 
scholars that I could hardly make give the simple 
sound of i, without the h going before. This must 
serve as a specimen of the manner in which the 
Queen trains her subjects to "murder the King's 
English." 

Many of the miners were German and Irish. 
Among the former a few were Lutherans ; the others, 
with the mass of the Irish population, adhered to the 
Romish Church. There were also a few French who 
were Romanists. Several of the agents, clerks, or 
employes were our own countrymen, and, in general, 
were well educated and shrewd business men. To 
make money was the object which induced most of 
the inhabitants to forego the blessings of home, in a 
better land, and endure the privations and hardships 
of the wilderness. Many favored the institutions of 
religion as a matter of policy, as connected with 
mining, who, so far as their own life and practice 
were concerned, lived in entire neglect of their spir- 
itual interests. It is tacitly acknowledged, even by 
the most skeptical, that without the moral and relig- 
ious restraints of the Church, it would be hard to 
control such men as are generally employed to work 
the mines. 

Many of those miners had families in a distant 
land, some across the great Atlantic, whose society 
they had not enjoyed for years. A few knew what 
it was to rejoice in the liberty of the Gospel. But 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 159 

several had found their way into that region who had 
once tasted of the sweets of redeeming love, but like 
the prodigal had left their Father's house. In this 
wilderness many snares were but too successfully laid 
for their feet. The influences around them tended 
to harden them in their career of backsliding. Some 
abandoned themselves to drinking and gambling, hunt- 
ing and fishing, and other amusements on the Lord's 
day. To such the warning voice of the Gospel 
seemed lifted in vain. Vice and wickedness of va- 
rious kinds and degrees obtained here a luxurious 
growth. 

Our religious meetings were conducted with great 
inconvenience for want of a suitable place. The only 
place we could obtain at the Cliff was a small school- 
room. The class formed the year before had been 
broken up by removals. Soon after our arrival we 
collected another class of about a dozen members, 
with whom, during the year, we enjoyed many pre- 
cious seasons. Our public meetings were often sea- 
sons of interest and profit ; and, in the midst of a far 
too general neglect of divine things, we have reason 
to believe that the efforts put forth at that station, 
in the name of the Lord, were owned by him to the 
edification of his people and the advancement of his 
cause. 

As is the case in many parts of the country, it 
was customary to have dancing parties as an expe- 
dient to avoid the tedium of the long winter nights. 
While living at the Cliff arrangements were made 



160 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

to have a Christmas ball at Eagle river. The mana- 
gers, several of whom, as men of the world, the writer 
and his family had every reason to respect for their 
kind and gentlemanly bearing, sent him a note po- 
litely inviting him and his wife to attend. The case 
was disposed of by the following answer: 

"TO THE MANAGERS OF THE CHRISTMAS BALL, TO BE 
HELD AT EAGLE RIVER: 

" Gentlemen, — I received your compliments to my- 
self and wife, together with an invitation to attend 
the proposed ball. The following considerations com- 
pel me to decline : 

" First. As it would be a beginning with me I should 
cut an awkward figure in a ball-room. 

" Second. In the earlier stages of my religious ex- 
perience I conscientiously abstained from such amuse- 
ments, as in no way conducing to a life of godliness ; 
it could hardly be expected that, after professing to 
be a disciple of Christ more than twenty years, I 
should be less scrupulous. 

" Third. In addition to the solemn vows of a private 
Christian, the increased responsibilities of a Gospel 
minister have entirely unfitted me for such scenes. 

" Fourth and last, though not least, I have been a 
great sinner against Christ; it is, therefore, befitting 
in me to hail the anniversary of his lowly advent 
with sincere and deep penitence for the past; with 
humble and devout acknowledgments of my present 
want of conformity to his will, and with increased 
resolutions, accompanied with prayer for Divine aid, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 161 

to finish my ivork as a Christian and a minister, that 
when death comes to my release I may have no bitter 
reflections on the past, and no cloud to dim my pros- 
pect of the future. Whether I could or could not 
thus salute the approach of Christmas at a ball, judge 
ye. With an unaffected regard for your best good 
for time and eternity, 

"I am, gentlemen, yours, 

most truly and affectionately, etc." 

During my residence among the miners we found 
many large and warm hearts to throb under the rough 
exterior. And while the facts compel us to speak 
of many evils, many things were found worthy of 
high commendation. For frankness, warm and gen- 
erous sympathy, and liberality to relieve the suffering, 
to support the Gospel, to aid the cause of Sunday 
schools, or the missionary cause, we have seldom 
known this people to be excelled. They have been 
trained to acts of liberality and hospitality from chil- 
dren. Convince them that a noble charity is in want, 
and it will here find a ready and generous response. 

One practice as connected with the public worship 
of God among them we could wish was generally in 
use; that is, congregational singing. No people in 
the world are so familiar with the Methodist hymns 
as our English brethren. And they nearly all sing. 
The praises of God as thus sung by the whole con- 
gregation, in which the several parts are generally 
well sustained, come nearest to our notion of the 



162 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

anthems of heaven of any thing we can conceive. 
Some of the singing we have heard at the Cliff Mine 
is often brought to our remembrance. With those 
dear brethren we hope by and by to sing "the song 
of Moses and the Lamb." 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 165 



CHAPTER X. 

SCENERY ABOUT EAGLE RIVER AND THE CLIFF 
MINE — SKETCH OF THE MINE. 

What is embraced in this chapter, with slight 
variations, was penned on the spot in the summer 
of 1848, and published in the "Christian Visitor." 

Eagle river is an inconsiderable stream, except at 
its mouth, emptying into Lake Superior about twenty- 
five miles west of Copper Harbor. It derives its 
name from the Indian Me-ge-zeh — an eagle — and se- 
beh — a river. The small town at the mouth bears 
the same name. The site is an immense sand-bank, 
and has no attractiveness. The special want is a good 
harbor, as it forms the depot for the Cliff Mine and 
several others, is a central rallying-point for all parts 
of the Lake, and necessarily a place of much busi- 
ness. A good pier, built at great expense, supplies, 
in a measure, the want of harbor. Here is a regular 
preaching-place; but no society has been formed, and 
no immediate prospect of one. Mr. Atwood kindly 
opened his dining-hall for religious worship, and, with 
his family, has shown us many marks of favor. A 
mile and a half up stream is what is called Eagle 
River Diggings. Here are the Lake Superior Compa- 
ny's works — now abandoned — our place of residence. 



166 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

From the Lake, going nearly south to the Cliff, we 
ascend gradually till we reach the top of the hill, five 
or six hundred feet above the level of the Lake, two 
and a half miles inland. A road has been constructed 
at much expense — still very rough and uncomfort- 
able. The wet places are bridged with round logs, 
technically termed corduroy. The hill-side is stony 
and uneven. From the top we have a fine view of 
Lake Superior to the north. When the atmosphere 
is clear, Isle Royal can be seen, at a distance of 
fifty miles. The land is heavily timbered with birch, 
maple, hemlock, etc., and well watered with numerous 
springs. The soil is alluvial, and adapted to farming 
purposes. Many people get their living by farming 
in as rigid a climate and on poorer soil. Still it is 
granted that farming can never become a chief source 
of industry or revenue in the Lake Superior region. 

Passing through a defile, we gradually descend, by 
means of a road which winds around the side of the 
bluff, to the south. The natural scenery is here highly 
picturesque. As you descend, to your left is a deep 
chasm, which forms the valley of Eagle river. Here 
you look down on the tops of tall trees, and far 
beyond the land rises to view in mountainous ranges. 
Here a cold spring gurgles from the Cliff, and crosses 
the road; there a delightful little stream tumbles 
down the precipice, and makes music on the ear. To 
your right the Cliff now rises above you in majesty 
and grandeur. At the works the top of the Cliff is 
two hundred and twenty feet above the west branch 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 167 

of Eagle river. Here one would suppose that nature 
in one of her freaks, had attempted to shake down the 
mountain; for in every direction lay broken masses 
and heaps on heaps of the trap rock thrown down 
from the top. Some of these masses are as large as 
good-sized cabins, and have lain in their present posi- 
tion sufficiently long to support the growth of good- 
sized trees. As you look up to the masses which 
crop out* at the summit, you would naturally imagine 
that some were just ready to leap from their fast- 
nesses. And should they do so, woe betide whatever 
was beneath them. 

On the side of this convulsed and rocky cliff, in the 
midst of some of these huge rocks, are situated the 
houses, shops, and works of the miners. There is 
here no appearance of pleasantness for a village, 
environed, as it is, with lofty woodland, which inter- 
cepts the view in all directions. The office and store 
joined together is a pretty good building. Some of 
the dwellings are tolerably comfortable, but not built 
with regard to convenience, or external neatness and 
order. Necessity has been the rule, and was a good 
one to begin with, but the Company has opened on a 
rich treasure, and will probably be disposed to bestow 
more taste on their future improvements. On our 
arrival here we found one hundred and forty persons 
at work at the Cliff Mine, seventy to eighty under 
ground, and about sixty grass hands — a miner's term 



* This geological term was incorrectly printed in the Visitor, cross out. 

14 



168 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

for surface workmen. Captain Jennings, a master at 
mining, was Agent, but succeeded the next summer by 
Mr. L. Hanna, a gentleman well qualified for so im- 
portant a charge. Captain J. still managed the prin- 
cipal mining operations, while Mr. H. took a general 
oversight of the whole business. 

The workmen are generally robust and hardy, but 
rough in their appearance and manners; yet, under 
the rough exterior are some noble minds and gener- 
ous hearts. To get a good view of them as they issue 
from the mine, you should be at a prominent place at 
the ringing of the dinner-bell. You may see them 
coming from the mine, covered with mud and dirt, 
and often drenched from head to foot. Sometimes 
they leave their light behind them, but often you will 
see a small tin lamp fastened to the hat, or a piece of 
candle in a lump of wet clay attached to the hat — all 
burning. The workmen now, generally in single file, 
make a straight wake for their boarding-house, cross- 
ing each other's path in nearly all directions. If one 
did not know better he would suppose them to be in- 
habitants of a world where the sun's rays never 
reached; and they are, eight hours out of twenty-four. 

THE CLIFF MINE AS SEEN IN THE SUMMER OF 1848. 

If the kind reader is disposed to take a peep into 
some of the wonders that are disclosed beneath the 
surface of the earth, he may please accompany me 
through the Cliff Mine. But before doing so we will 
go to the office and form the acquaintance of the 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 169 

Agent, Mr. Hanna, Captain Jennings, and others. 
Thence you will be desirous to visit the stamps, 
where you will see a large bank of mineral, stamped 
through the winter, yielding from ten to twenty per 
cent, of copper. Several persons are here employed 
in washing copper. The stamps have lately been 
somewhat improved. They now stamp about two 
hundred and thirty tuns per month. In one month 
eighty-six barrels of this copper were washed and 
barreled ready for shipping. 

Let us now go partly up the bluff, into a large 
mineral shed, where the stamp-work is first burned 
in a huge fire, then broken to pieces, and conveyed to 
the stamps. Here are also several men engaged in 
cutting huge masses of the pure copper into blocks 
sufficiently small to admit of being transported. This 
part is attended with great labor and expense. A 
wagon is driven along side this shed, where these 
masses are raised by a crane, and thus swung into 
the wagon, and drawn to the Lake. From eighty 
to one hundred tuns of copper, including that which 
is barreled, are taken to the Lake monthly. 

We will now go up a flight of stairs to another 
large level, formed of broken stone taken out of the 
mine. Here is a machine, worked by two horses, to 
pump out the mine. Adjoining this is what is called 
a whim — the Cornish say wim. This is a large per- 
pendicular cylinder, turned by horse power, as tan- 
ners grind bark. A large rope is wound around this 
cylinder, with a large bucket at each end, which 



170 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

connects with shaft No. 1, to raise the rock and min- 
eral. To your right is a blacksmith-shop, used mostly 
for sharpening drills. To the north is another ma- 
chine connected with shaft No. 1, called a sheer; it 
should be sheers. {Vide Webster's Dictionary.) 
This machine gives a power sufficient to raise ten 
tuns weight. With this the large masses of copper 
are taken out of the mine. A little to the left, over- 
head, is another whim, which connects with shaft 
No. 2, twenty-eight yards north of No. 1. You 
may now turn to the right, and follow a rail- track 
through another mineral shed, where all the broken 
rock of a poorer quality is taken, and the pre- 
cious separated from the vile. As we turn about 
to see whence all this treasure is taken, you will 
naturally cast your eyes up the bluff, where you may 
see a large opening which once contained a great 
mass of copper. You will notice also a slide of 
greenstone, dipping to the north at an angle of per- 
haps 45°. This occasions a fault in the vein, at 
which the mineral ceases. 

Before going into the mine we must return to the 
office to get a change of apparel. If you are at all 
careful about your velvet or broadcloth, you must 
doff it before you go under ground. You want a 
complete miner's suit from head to foot. Then you 
must have the safe conduct of Captain Jennings or 
Boss Jones, who will see that each one is furnished 
with a candle, and a lump of wet clay to put around 
it, which you must keep moist. Thus equipped we 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 171 

will now go into drift No. 1, which is on a level with 
most of the works we have been viewing; only be 
careful, in passing by No. 2, not to step off the 
plank into the depths below. Here you may go in 
several hundred feet, where not much is to be seen, 
except the empty space where the mineral has been 
removed. 

We will now return to shaft No. 1, and go below, 
sixty feet, into the Adit This is a drift extending 
from the river nine hundred feet north, and is used 
for draining the mine. Let it now be remembered 
that we must descend by ladders, several of which 
are nearly perpendicular, and one quite so. You 
must now pull off your gloves — if you have any 
on — and do not be afraid of soiling your hands as 
you hold on to the muddy rounds of the ladder. As 
you follow your guide, you must learn this lesson, 
and not forget it for a moment: "Hold fast with 
your hands — never mind your feet." As we go down 
we occasionally come on to a small platform, and, by 
simply turning round, we take hold of another ladder. 
But you must not let go one ladder till you see where 
you are ; a single misstep may precipitate you down 
the main shaft from one hundred to two hundred 
feet. We now find ourselves safely in the Adit. This 
is called the ten fathom level, or drift No. 2. The 
course of the vein is nearly north and south, dipping 
slightly to the east. 

From shaft No. 1 we will now go north, passing 
over a pit fifteen or twenty feet deep, where the 



172 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

mineral has been removed. Soon we shall reach 
shaft No. 2, which we will cross on planks, on one 
side, holding on to an iron bar fastened to the rock 
on each side. At the north extremity of this drift 
is a mass of copper which has been thrown down by 
a sand-blast, which will probably weigh from thirty 
to fifty tuns. This must be cut to pieces with chisels 
before it can be taken out. Overhead you will see, 
in many places, what is called a stull, or pent-house. 
This consists of heavy timbers placed across the mine 
so as to form a scaffold. In this way the lode is all 
approached, and removed from one drift to another, 
ten fathoms, or sixty feet. This stulling is often torn 
down by heavy blasts, and is one source of the 
danger of miners. In going south we will see noth- 
ing very different from what is to be seen north, 
except that there the lode is not so rich as here. 

Finding our way to shaft No. 1, we will again go 
down sixty feet to drift No. 3. The appearance here 
is very similar to that in drift No. 2, Every-where 
you have evidences of an inconceivably rich mine. 
In places you will find the lode entirely removed; 
then you will pass huge masses of mineral not yet 
disturbed. North of shaft No. 2 we pass a chain- 
ladder, which, if you are fond of adventure, you may 
ascend five or six fathoms into a large opening in 
the mine. A little farther on we cross over a winze, 
which is a communication from one drift to another 
to air the mine. This is soon to be used for a third 
shaft. The whole length of this drift, from north to 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 173 

south, is about one hundred and ten yards. If your 
curiosity is not yet satisfied, we may go down sixty 
feet further, into drift No. 4. In the extreme end 
north, after crawling on your hands and knees for 
some distance, over what miners call deads — that is, 
broken rock — you find yourself in a large opening, 
where is the appearance of a large mass of copper. 
The mine in this region is very rich. In this drift, 
among the many things too tedious to name, we 
notice what is called the sump-shaft. This is only 
a continuation of shaft No. 1, eighteen feet below 
the lower level. This, as the others, is to be sunk 
sixty feet before drifting again. The Captain is 
much elated with the prospect here, and promises 
for the next sixty feet to show the richest part of 
the mine. In what is called the country — that is, by 
the side of the vein- — a mass of copper has been 
taken out weighing fifteen hundred pounds. The 
material is here raised to the lower drift by a wind- 
lass. A short time since I was visiting the mine, 
and, being desirous to see the bottom, my friend J. 
let me down in a bucket. But the miners having 
stopped work, water had collected two or three feet 
deep in the bottom. The first warning I had of this 
was the impression of wet feet as the tub was filling 
with water. This Boss Jones called sumpen. 

The most agreeable time to go into the mine is 
Monday morning when the work commences, or Sat- 
urday afternoon after the miners quit work. The 
mine is then free from smoke. But if you choose 



174 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

to go when all are at work, you will see more. Here 
you may see a person holding a huge drill, and an- 
other with a large hammer, making every stroke tell 
on the hard rock. There you may see several men, 
with levers, at work at a mass which has been torn 
loose by a sand-blast. Here you may see one wheel- 
ing the rock, and throwing it down through a mill, 
where it is taken by others, put into buckets, and 
raised to the surface. In different parts of the mine 
you will hear the blast, the report of which rolls 
like thunder through the subterranean vaults. A 
dismal gloom seems to pervade the whole region, 
and at every turn you will be impressed with the 
fact that few men are so exposed to danger as miners. 
But what above every thing else should impress every 
one is the evidence of the wisdom, goodness, and 
power of God, above, beneath, and all around. 

Doubtless you are as ready now to leave the mine 
as you were to enter it. We have now one hundred 
and eighty feet of ladder to climb ; but, by persever- 
ance, stopping a moment occasionally to take breath, 
we shall soon be at the top. Now we emerge from 
a world of darkness into a world of light. We may 
now return to the office, and assume our own attire, 
by which time it would be no very strange thing if a 
good meal would relish well. If the reader thinks 
this description of the Cliff Mine too minute, it may 
be a source of relief that this must suffice for all the 
other mines of Lake Superior — to explore one thor- 
oughly is to see the leading features of all the rest. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 175 



CHAPTER XI. 

INTERVAL OF CONFERENCE-APPOINTMENT 

TO THE INDIAN MISSION DISTRICT, 

AND REMOVAL TO THE SAUT. 

August 18th, we found ourselves at the close of 
another conference year, and on board the propeller 
Independence. I had left to attend the annual con- 
ference which was to meet at Kalamazoo on the 6th 
of September. My family accompanied me as far as 
Copper Harbor, where, at midnight, we parted. They 
would have continued with me but for the extremely 
delicate health of Mrs. P. Mr. D. D. Brockway had 
kindly invited them to remain under his roof, where, 
with Mrs. Brockway, they were sure to have not only 
a hearty welcome, but every necessary attention. I 
feel called upon thus publicly to acknowledge the 
kindness shown to my family in the few weeks of 
their stay at Mrs. Brockway's. 

A DELIGHTFUL SABBATH AT SEA. 

August 20th, Sabbath, was a clear and delightful 

day. The following minute was made at the time: 

"Wind dead ahead ever since we started, but not 

enough to make a rough sea. We are in sight of 

White Fish Point, about twelve miles off. This has 
15 



176 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

been more like Sabbath to me than any I have before 
seen on the Lake. I have seen no ungentlemanly be- 
havior among either crew or passengers. I felt desir- 
ous, and prayed yesterday and this morning, that 
some door of usefulness might be opened to me on 
board. Have put a number of good tracts in circula- 
tion, which, in several instances, were thankfully 
received. At about ten o'clock, A. M., I had the 
privilege of conducting divine worship on board. We 
sung first, 

* From all that dwell below the skies.' 

After prayer and the reading of part of the hundred 
and seventh Psalm, we sung the second part of the 
hymn, 'to be sung at sea,' beginning, 

1 Infinite God, thy greatness spann'd.' 

I strove as well as I could to preach Christ crucified, 
to present the cross in its spiritual import and bear- 
ings. I opened my mouth and the Lord filled it. By 
the serious attention paid I trust it was a word not 
spoken in vain. We then joined in singing the cele- 
brated missionary hymn, 

'From Greenland's icy mountain.' 

Rev. J. W. Holt, from Kewawenon, made an appro- 
priate closing prayer, and the congregation, consist- 
ing of about thirty souls, were dismissed and quietly 
retired. 

"In the afternoon I had an interesting conversation 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 177 

with W. H. B., one of the sailors. He is one who 
was rescued from the wreck of the Barbara. He has 
sailed twenty-five years on salt water and three on 
fresh — has witnessed many perils and dangers. He 
had sailed under Father Taylor, and sat with delight 
under his preaching. He says he is not destitute of 
the comforts of religion. An old backslider, who 
once belonged to the Methodists, B., opened to me 
the state of his mind, while tears ran clown his wrin- 
kled and care-worn cheeks. I gave him such instruc- 
tion as I thought best suited his case. that God 
may lead him to the foot of the cross ! Beside my 
regular Bible lessons, I was edified in the perusal of 
a tract and three of Bishop Morris's sermons. Judge 
Hawes and his excellent wife are on board, who exert 
a commanding influence, happily, in favor of religion." 
For such a Sabbath at sea I felt that I could not be 
sufficiently grateful, especially as I had, in several 
instances, witnessed such shocking desecration of the 
Lord's day on similar occasions. 

On reaching the Saut, I was urged by the super- 
intendent to remain here, instead of going to confer- 
ence, to look after the interests of the mission. There 
were good reasons why the missionaries should not 
all be absent at this time; and, though at the sac- 
rifice of inclination, I abandoned going to conference, 
and remained at the Saut. The families of brothers 
Brockway and Barnum remained at Little Rapids 
during this interval, where I found a most agreeable 
home. 



178 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

My time was spent very pleasantly in reading, 
writing, visiting, and attending to such duties as 
grew out of my calling. Several of those pastoral 
visits among afflicted and poor families on both sides 
of the river were seasons of edification to my own 
soul; for here I saw, in one or two instances espe- 
cially, the support that our holy religion can give 
when earthly refuge fails. 

I spent four Sabbaths here, during which I preached 
to the white citizens of the village part of the day, 
and the other part to the Indians at Little Rapids. 
Much of the time, as is often the case here at this 
season, we had very driving and cold easterly rain- 
storms. The weather was very disagreeable, and our 
meetings were thinly attended. I here formed the 
acquaintance of Colonel M'Nair, the mineral agent, 
Dr. Patterson, Judge Hunt, Mr. Whiting — all con- 
nected in some way with the business of the land- 
office — and Colonel M'Knight, at whose quarters in 
Fort Brady I was made welcome. 

The following thoughts were suggested by our 
meeting at Little Rapids on the evening of Sep- 
tember 10th: "Much is said about the poor Indians; 
their slowness in making improvement. But I was 
led to contrast the actual condition of the natives 
with the whites of this region. At the village the 
Gospel has been preached by different missionaries 
for the last twenty years — some of them talented 
and powerful preachers; but at this time there is 
not a Protestant society in the place, and only a few 



MISSIONAEY LITE. 179 

scattered members to represent several Churches. 
If the Christian desires a spiritual feast, let him 
turn in and visit the mission at Little Rapids. Here 
is a little band decently clad and neat in their ap- 
pearance; but we see no external pomp or parade — 
no artificials or studied decorations to please the eye 
or attract the notice of spectators. Each one, with 
a solemn and reverential step, comes to the house 
of prayer, exhibiting by his demeanor that he is 
entering a place where God manifests his presence. 
A seriousness becoming the time and place is seen 
in each countenance. It is a rare thing to see a 
smile, much less that airy vanity often witnessed in 
white congregations. They sing with the spirit, and 
pray with great simplicity and earnestness. That 
saying of the Savior was forcibly brought to mind, 
as applied to the Jews : " Ye shall see Abraham, and 
Isaac, and Jacob, and all the prophets in the king- 
dom of God, and you yourselves thrust out. And 
they shall come from the east, and from the west, 
and from the north, and from the south, and shall 
sit down in the kingdom of God." 

On the 16th of September I received intelligence 
from conference up to the 11th inst., but no hint 
as to our future destiny. The same day, by an arri- 
val from above, I received word from my family. 
Their situation rendered it necessary for me to return 
to Copper Harbor by the first boat. And this I must 
do, still in the dark as to our appointment. 

Tuesday, September 19th, by propeller, I left the 



180 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Saut. We were out two days, and had to return 
again on account of adverse weather. Friday we 
again went aboard, and were off once more. Our 
boat was heavily laden, and a large number of pas- 
sengers aboard, of almost every description. The 
night following was to the sober part of the com- 
pany a most unpleasant night, on account of some 
"lewd fellows of the baser sort," whose obscene and 
disorderly behavior was scarcely endurable. And 
this the more so because there were aboard gentle- 
men and ladies whose presence, if nothing more, 
should have commanded respect and decent behavior 
from the most abandoned. 

Among the passengers was Mr. Richmond, the 
Indian Agent, and his brother, on their way to La 
Pointe to make the Indian payment. Here was Mr. 
Ramsay Crooks, a noble-looking man, who figures 
largely in Irving's "Astoria." After all his perils 
in and beyond the Rocky Mountains, he appeared to 
possess the vigor and sprightliness of youth. On 
board were the editor of the Lake Superior News 
and lady, and numerous others bound for La Pointe ; 
also brother K. and wife on their way to the Onton- 
agon, with Mr. S., pale and blanched with the ague. 
It had given him a cruel shaking on the lakes. Here 
was also Mrs. L. Hanna, wife of the Agent of the 
Cliff Mine, with her three little children, going to 
meet her husband after a long separation. She had 
just buried her aged mother and her youngest daugh- 
ter, and was to be the bearer of this mournful news 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 181 

to her companion. How sad such a meeting in view 
of the missing ones ! 

Saturday night we had a very rough sea, and the 
boat rolled and tumbled amazingly. But the rough- 
ness of the Lake quieted, in a good degree, the tur- 
bulence of some of the passengers. The Christian 
can much easier endure the raging of the sea than 
the raging of those who are " foaming out their own 
shame." This trip was, in almost every respect, in 
perfect contrast with our downward trip. But just 
at daybreak on Sabbath morning we arrived at Copper 
Harbor, and found all as well as could have been 
expected. 

October 5. We had an arrival at Copper Harbor, 
bringing word that I was appointed superintendent 
of the missions in the district, and was urged by 
brother Brockway to come immediately to the Saut. 
But, on account of the situation of Mrs. P., this was 
impracticable. 

Though not without risk, I took passage for Eagle 
Harbor, where I was landed with difficulty on account 
of a strong south-west wind. The next morning I 
walked nine miles, to the mouth of Eagle river, before 
breakfast; thence to the Diggings, where we had 
resided during the summer; packed up our things, 
and had all down to the Lake, marked and ready for 
shipping, by nine o'clock at night. Much fatigued, I 
relished the kindly influences of 

u Tired nature's sweet restorer, 
Balmy sleep." 



182 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Saturday I obtained a horse, and rode as far as 
Eagle Harbor, and walked the rest of the way to 
Copper Harbor. My feelings in view of the future 
were thus expressed at the time : 

" In looking ahead I see a world, in miniature, of 
labor and responsibility. In Grod alone is my trust. 
Aided by him I shall succeed. And how can I fail 
of his aid, if I hold on to his word and promise! 
Our way looks dark in some respects ; but how often 
have I been consoled by that passage, 'All things 
work together for good to them that love the Lord !' 
I hold on to this promise. Though I can not see the 
end, I am sure it will turn out for the best in some 
way. Here then I rest, and find an inward tran- 
quillity which I would not exchange for an earthly 
crown. 

"Monday 9. This morning Mrs. P. was delivered 
of an interesting little son. I think we have real- 
ized an answer to many prayers. She came out of 
this trial beyond our most sanguine hopes. May we 
ever magnify and praise thee, our heavenly Father, 
who art our ever-present, ever-sufficient help in time 
of need! 

" October 10. The Chippewa arrived from the 
Saut, bound for Fond du Lac, with brother Holt and 
wife, the missionaries for that station; and brother 
P. 0. Johnson and family, bound for Saut Ste. Marie, 
to be helpers with us there." 

This was providential, as I could not yet leave for 
the Saut. Brother Johnson acted as my deputy, in 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 183 

receiving the papers and other things belonging to 
the mission from brother Brockway. 

A sad affair occurred at the Harbor the same day. 
A young man came there a few days before, from the 
mines. He had in his pocket about seventeen dol- 
lars, which he spent in gambling and drinking. 
Monday night he came from a liquor-shop, near by, 
to the Brockway House, where we were stopping, 
crying murder, and calling to Mr. B. to let him in, 
saying that C. was going to kill him. He was 
brought in and sent up stairs to bed. But he raved, 
as most any other person would do under the influ- 
ence of delirium tremens. He quieted down toward 
morning, and nothing unusual was seen in his ap- 
pearance during the forenoon. But about noon he 
started, in front of the Brockway House, and ran 
with all his might, and plunged into the Harbor, 
into deep water, and went to the bottom like a 
stone. Efforts were speedily made to rescue him, 
but, before he could be taken out, his spirit had 
fled to the retributions of eternity! 

October 11th the Fur Trader arrived, bound for 
the Saut, via Kewawenon. Brother Marksman and 
wife, who were to be our associates at the Said, were 
aboard, and a number of our Indian brethren resid- 
ing at Kewawenon. Most of the afternoon was spent 
in conversation with them. Brother Johnson left the 
same day for the Saut. 

During the time I was detained here I went again 
to Eagle river, and spent a Sabbath at the Cliff Mine, 



184 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

preaching and administering the sacrament of the 
Lord's supper. 

October 24th the Independence arrived at Copper 
Harbor, on her downward course to the Saut. Two 
weeks had just elapsed since Mrs. P.'s confinement, 
and it appeared hazardous to commit ourselves to the 
mercy of storms; but trusting that a good Providence 
would "temper the winds to the shorn lamb," we 
went aboard and bade adieu to the Harbor, and 
reached the Saut in safety on the 27th instant. 
Here Mr. J. R. Livingston kindly furnished me with 
horse and a comfortable buggy, with which I con- 
veyed my family to the mission at Little Rapids, 
where, for the present, associated with Rev. P. 0. 
Johnson's family, we made our home* Shortly after 
Mrs. P. was taken suddenly, and, as we then thought, 
dangerously ill. But she was soon relieved and grad- 
ually recovered her strength. 

The change of missionaries all round, as might be 
expected, tended greatly to derange matters for a 
while. But we hoped, with God's blessing, soon to 
bring some kind of order out of the confusion around 
us. Our winter's supplies must yet be ordered from 
Detroit, and we found much to do to prepare for 
winter. 

It seemed not only desirable but indeed necessary, 
in view of the situation of the work, that we should 
reside at the village. The Fort was now without 
troops. Sergeant Gent, to whose care Fort Brady 
was consigned, kindly offered us quarters, rent free, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 185 

during the winter. We gladly embraced his, offer, 
and took possession of our new home on the 27th of 
November, when I made this note : " How transient 
is our stay in any one place ! Well, we shall soon 
be done with earth, and it matters but little, so that 
we have ' a house not made with hands, eternal in the 
heavens.'" 

We had just become settled in the Fort when a 
most sad event occurred near us. An Indian by the 
name of Nahbenaosh, whose residence was at Little 
Eapids, who had never abandoned his heathenism, 
and who had been accustomed to become intoxicated, 
came at last to a dreadful end. On the last night of 
November, a cold wintery night, he had turned away 
from the place where some one, who had the physical 
form and carriage of a man, had filled his bottle with 
the liquid poison. He found his way to a deserted 
wigwam, on the road to Little Rapids. Here, in some 
way, he set the wigwam on fire, which burned down 
over his besotted frame, crisping and shockingly 
mutilating it. The next morning a bottle was found 
by his side, telling, truthfully, the cause of this wreck 
and ruin of another deathless immortal! On the 
2d of December, a windy and snowy day, I saw 
the Indians deposit his remains in the grave, while a 
son, a devoted Christian, wept tears of inconsolable 
grief over one he had once been wont to call father! 
Such melancholy facts are most painful to record, yet 
they are facts, in the midst of which we were called 
to move, and of which we were, at times, eye-wit- 



±86 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

nesses, and without their mention the reader can 
hardly appreciate the influences that operated to 
impoverish and ruin the Indians, soul and body. In 
the light of such speaking facts it is easy to perceive 
who are the true friends of the red man. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 187 



CHAPTER XII. 

TRAVELS AMONG THE INDIANS DURING 
THE WINTER. 

I made one visit, during the winter, to the Indian 
settlement at Garden River, Canada, now under the 
care of Rev. Mr. Anderson, of the Episcopal Church. 
My old friends appeared very glad to see me; and, 
at the request of the missionary, I preached to them. 

I made two very interesting trips to Naomikong, 
Lake Superior, some thirty-five miles from the Saut, 
which I think deserving of a more particular account. 

January 5th, 1849, in company with brother Marks- 
man, I left home after noon. Rode in a one-horse 
cutter eight miles. P. G. returned with the horse 
and cutter, and with our blankets, camp kettle, and 
provisions, we went on afoot. Faced a cold and 
blustery wind, and the ice was very smooth, so that 
we could scarcely keep to our feet. A poor Dutch- 
man, on the same route, with boots instead of moc- 
casins, came near perishing, as we afterward learned. 
He turned aside and spent the night in the woods, 
without fire, and but thinly clad. He made out to 
reach a house the next day, and was thus saved. We 
arrived safely at Waishkees Bay just before dark. 
Found here a tolerably- comfortable cedar-bark wig- 



188 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

warn. The two men who had left the Saut in com- 
pany with the Dutchman were here, and had a fire 
for our accommodation. We immediately went to 
work with our hatchets and provided wood for the 
night. Notwithstanding the cold we should have slept 
pretty well, but for the smoke which drove into the 
lodge. 

January 6. After a hard walk of five hours, 
through woods most of the way, and on snow-shoes, 
we reached Carp river. Here was a saw-mill, a French 
family, two or three Americans, and a few Indians — 
the Waishkees. As they were old acquaintances they 
were very glad to see us, and we must drink with 
them some shah-gah-mit-ta — hot drink, either tea or 
coffee. To this proposal we readily acceded, eating 
with our tea some bread and pork. Then we had 
a season of prayer, and resumed our journey. A 
stiff cold wind was in our faces, and the ice, most 
of the way, was jammed together, nearly perpendic- 
ular like knives, and made it hard walking and trying 
to our feet. Reached Naomikong before night, and 
put up with my old friend, Monomonee, the chief, 
lately from Grand Island. Here were two other quite 
good log-houses, and the Indians, generally, appeared 
comfortably situated. Several called to see us, and 
kept us talking till the evening was spent. 

Sabbath a good congregation collected to hear the 
word of the Lord. They were well clad, and very 
attentive while I preached them a plain, practical 
sermon from "the grace of God that bringeth sal- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 189 

vation to all men hath appeared," etc. The Lord 
was present to bless. After noon brother Marksman 
preached on the parable of "the barren fig tree." 
This was also called a season of spiritual profit. The 
prayer meeting at night was a season owned of God. 
There was no flagging ; both the singing and praying 
were in the spirit. I gave out an appointment for 
the next morning, at the close of which I had designed 
to leave for home. But on dismissing the congre- 
gation I was urged to go on to Te-quah-me-non, some 
five miles farther. It was said that the Indians there 
were very desirous that we should visit them. We 
had three or four members there — several persons 
were sick — one or two desired to be baptized, etc. 
To this call we felt constrained to yield. 

On returning to Monomonee's from the meeting, 
we had an illustration of the manner in which the 
Indians prize a writing. Three years before, when 
I had visited his family at Grand Island, with a copy 
of John's Gospel, I gave him also a small class-book, 
with his own name and the names of his family writ- 
ten with pencil. Both of these he had preserved 
neat and clean. He took them out of his trunk and 
showed them to me. The class paper, though now 
of no use, was kept as a kind of memento. 

Accompanied by five Indians, we went the next 
morning to visit Te-quah-me-non. The second house 
we entered we had a specimen of the supreme self- 
ishness of a heathen Indian. As usual, I passed 
round the house to shake hands with the inmates. 



190 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

I offered my hand to an old woman, who was making 
snow-shoes. She continued her work as though she 
did not see me. After giving her a fair opportunity 
to reciprocate this token of friendship and civility, 
in vain, I turned away, in disappointment, while she 
muttered, "I see your hand, but there is nothing in 
it that will benefit me. I am poor, and you might 
bring me something that would do me some good." 

We next went to the wigwam of O-ge-mah-pe-na- 
sa, or the King-hawJc. Here the people who were 
disposed collected together, to whom I preached a 
short sermon from "behold the Lamb of God," etc., 
and baptized an infant. The erysipelas was prevail- 
ing — a bad type of it, and kept several away. 

Kah-ba-no-den, the old chief, sent an invitation 
for me to visit him in his wigwam. We went im- 
mediately after meeting, and had an interview with 
him and his family. He said that "he was very 
desirous to have us come and preach to his people, 
and that this was not merely his desire, but the gen- 
eral wish of the people there. He said that the 
preacher that occasionally preached to them,* was a 
kind of scolding preacher, and the people would not 
hear him." Again, "he said some of the young peo- 
ple were not members of any Church, and if we 
should labor among them we might do them good." 
I gave him all the encouragement I could, and before 
I parted with him remarked, that I was glad once 

* A native preacher of another persuasion 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 191 

more to meet with his family; that the last time I 
met with them was five years before at Saut Ste. 
Marie, when his son, Beverly Waugh, lay sick in his 
wigwam. Till now he had not recognized me, and, 
looking up, he exclaimed, Me-suh owh Jca-get? Is 
this the very one? Seeming to start up as from a 
reverie, he reached out his hand to me saying, Bushoo, 
hushoo — the word they use as equivalent to our how 
do you do? Poor old man! he had just lost one of 
his fingers from the disease before named. But he 
had a worse disease; he was sometimes overcome 
with intemperance. He was a shrewd, intelligent- 
looking Indian, and, perhaps, but for this besetment, 
would long before have been an active Christian. 

Without stopping for any refreshment, eating sim- 
ply some crackers which we carried in our pockets 
by the way, we returned immediately to Naomikong, 
where, at night, we had another interesting meeting. 
Tuesday went six miles to Carp river, and at ten 
o'clock, A. M., preached to the little band there. 
About noon we left, and, after a walk of about four- 
teen miles, we reached Waishkees Bay and camped 
in the wigwam, which gave us shelter on our way up. 
Two of the Waishkee boys had been here, and a 
small fire was still left. We found here some fine, 
fresh pike, a pretty good pile of wood, some flour 
in a barrel, etc. We commenced getting supper, but 
before it was ready the boys came in with a lynx and 
a rabbit. We all messed together, and spent the 

night very comfortably by keeping a good fire. But 

16 



192 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

the weather was intensely cold, and a very cold day 
followed, but walking on the ice from this was good. 
At ten o'clock we reached T. S.'s, within six miles 
of home. The family were just at breakfast, and 
urged us to partake with them. This we did; and, 
after prayer and conversation on the subject of re- 
ligion, we left, and were at home by noon. Our visit 
was made in an auspicious time — we saw nearly all 
the Indians together, had six public meetings, none 
of which were barren seasons, besides religious ex- 
ercises in several private families. We were per- 
suaded that we were in the work of the Lord, and 
that the angel of mercy had accompanied us. To 
his name alone be the glory forever ! 

A TRIP DURING THE CRUST-MOON. 

The Indians have no months nor years in their 
calendar. They count by moons and winters. The 
month of March is called by them O-nah-bun-a-ge- 
zis — the crust-moon. The name is derived from the 
fact, that during this moon the snow is usually crusted 
over so hard that persons can walk on the crust 
without the aid of snow-shoes. 

The first day of March, accompanied by brother 
Marksman, I left home to visit the Indians at Na- 
omihong. Our team took us six miles, where we 
staid all night with the family of T. S. The next 
morning we left by eight o'clock. Brother M. 
thought we could trust the crust-moon, so we left 
our snow-shoes. We did not need them any of the 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 193 

way. The day was delightful, and walking good, 
except where the ice was too slippery. We had 
soon passed Pointe au Pin. Before us some eight 
miles, across the ice, was Pointe Iroquois. Still fur- 
ther ahead was, in sight, an island called by the 
Indians Nod-o-wa-we-gun-e-min-e-sha — literally, the 
island of the bones of the Nod-o-wag,* a warlike 
tribe of Indians, who were deadly enemies of the 
Ojibwas, and who, as tradition says, were massacred 
by the latter on Pointe Iroquois. 

Their story is that "those Indians had been at 
war with the Ojibwas, and whenever they killed an 
Ojibwa they roasted and ate him. The Ojibwas had 
at that time a large village at Saut Ste. Marie. They 
had heard of the coming of this tribe, and took their 
departure from the Saut, with their wives and chil- 
dren, whom they took to Parisian Island, and there 
concealed them. They sent three Indians to see 
where the JSfodowag should camp. These the JSfod- 
owag caught on the way, killed them, and took them 
to Point Iroquois. Here they «made a huge fire, 
roasted the men they had taken, and feasted and 
danced nearly all night. Their fire was seen by the 



*By Nodowag the Chippeway Indians doubtless meant the Dalcotas 
or Sioux, who from time immemorial have been deadly enemies to each 
other. The term nadowessi has from an early date been applied by the 
Chippeways to the Sioux. Nodowag is probably only another form of 
the same word. Governor Ramsay, of Minnesota territory, thinks that 
the Chippeways used the word nadowessi as synonymous with the term 
enemies, of whatever tribe. See a very elaborate and able document 
from his pen, on the various Indian tribes under his supervision, in the 
Annual Report of the Commissioners of Indian Affairs, for 1849-50, p. 68. 



194 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Ojibwas, who made preparations to fall upon them. 
Just before day the Nodowag all lay down, and fell 
into a sound sleep. The Ojibwas surrounded them, 
and so arranged that two persons should seize on 
each tent simultaneously. By this means, at a given 
signal, each tent was thrown down on its inmates, 
who were all captured and slain, except one, whose 
ears they cut off, and then sent him home to bear 
the news to his friends." Brother M. said that his 
father had often seen the bones which had covered 
this place of slaughter. Hence the name of the 
little island just at the end of the Point. This was 
one subject of conversation as we crossed this long 
icy bridge. 

•Another topic of discourse while making this long 
traverse was about Indian medicine men. Brother 
M. said that " his father had designed him for a med- 
icine man, and, till he was fifteen years of age, he 
was more or less instructed in those mysteries. He 
was taught that the instruction thus given was to be 
kept as a profound* secret — -that it should be known 
by none except those who were members of the fra- 
ternity. At their great Mittas, or medicine feasts, 
persons were initiated into these mysteries. They 
usually had six persons, males, called elders, who 
performed the services of the gods of medicine, and 
one female, for the goddess of medicine. The cere- 
monies were performed in a large wigwam, in the 
shape of the horizon as it appears to the eye. This 
was to resemble the earth, which they considered a 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 195 

great wigwam, with the sky for a covering. Their 
songs were a kind of praise to the Great Spirit 
for the good effects of the medicine. And without 
this praise to the Great Spirit they consider that he 
would be angry, and the medicine be without its 
desired effect. They must handle every kind of med- 
icine as something sacred, and never use harsh lan- 
guage in addressing any god. Old men they were 
taught to respect. They must never be trifling; 
4 for,' said they, 'the eyes of the Great Spirit are 
as large as the sky, and he sees all that we do.' 
These medicine men must be well dressed and appear 
respectably." 

Thus employed time passed pleasantly, and we had 
soon reached the Point, and then the island, near 
which we seated ourselves on a large piece of ice, 
and ate a lunch of crackers and cold pork. So true 
is it that "there is but a step between the sublime 
and the ridiculous." 

A little after noon we reached Carp river, and 
were warmly received by the Waishkee family. They 
went to work immediately to prepare us some warm 
victuals. One of the viands was a great treat — it 
was Cardboo meat, tender and sweet as any venison. 
We could not avoid thinking of patriarchal simplicity 
in eating of a good warm cake and " savory meat" 
taken from the forest. Here we rested awhile, wor- 
shiped together, and were again en route for Naomi- 
hong, where we arrived after a walk of twenty-eight 
miles, but not without weariness. 



196 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

We stopped with Monomonee, who, with the other 
Indians, met us cordially. 

I never witnessed a more beautiful appearance of 
the sky than as seen just about sunset. Not a cloud 
was to be seen, except in the north-west one of milky 
appearance. The sky above and around was of trans- 
parent blue. To the westward it was of a mellow 
golden hue, with a purple tinge. As the sun was 
receding from view, the reflection was like a lambent 
blaze in the tops of the intervening trees. The scene 
was a reflection of the glory of God. " How mani- 
fold are thy works, Lord: in wisdom hast thou 
made them all!" 

March 3d, accompanied by Monomonee, we left to 
visit Tequahmenon. We had not gone far before 
brother Marksman was obliged to turn back. He 
had lamed his feet the day before by walking on the 
hard ice. So I went on without an interpreter. 
Here we visited several families, and had a season 
of worship at the lodge of 0. We also called on 
She-gud, a very devoted Christian Indian, a deacon 
in the Baptist Church, but in a declining state. After 
a short conversation with him I left, craving the 
blessing of God upon him; to which he responded, 
"Ah pa-gish ka-gate" — " This is what I sincerely 
desire" One such monument of the saving power 
of the Gospel is worth years of missionary toil and 
sacrifice. Deacon She-gud has since gone to his 
reward, loved and lamented by all who knew him. 
We now returned to Naomikong, fatigued from our 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 197 

walk on the smooth ice* My feet were blistered 
and sore. 

Just before night the dogs commenced barking 
and running toward the Lake, announcing an arrival 
from abroad. It was old sister Waishkee, from Carp 
river, with her two daughters-in-law, come to enjoy 
the communion with us the next day. She was prob- 
ably sixty or seventy years of age, large and fleshy, 
and could not walk far on the smooth ice, though 
vigorous for her years. Her daughters drew her 
most of the way on a hand-train. This looked like 
old-fashioned Methodist meetings, when people could 
work a little to attend them. 

In the meeting at night we read and explained the 
General Rules of the society. Sabbath morning was 
most lovely — a fair emblem of what it was to be to 
us spiritually. Early in the morning two of sister 
Waishkee's sons arrived. At nine we met for love- 
feast. After the introductory services a most inter- 
esting relation of Christian experiences followed. No 
time was lost. I could with difficulty close the de- 
lightful exercises by eleven o'clock. Others were 
still ready to speak. Nearly all seemed to feel that 
God was in our midst. My attention was attracted 
more particularly by an aged widow, an aunt to 
brother Marksman. She lived about a mile from the 
settlement, in the woods, and could seldom get out. 
Brother M. had visited her on Saturday. She ex- 
pressed great desire to meet with us on Sabbath; 
but she was in charge of two little children, and did 



198 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

not know how to leave them ; besides her daughter 
and little boy had gone to the Saut for provisions. 
How she managed to be there I did not learn. At 
any rate she was in the love-feast in season. She 
was plainly but well clad. She had on a good broad- 
cloth shawl and a clean checkered apron. Her face 
was furrowed with age, but her hair not much turned. 
The expression of her face indicated a serene frame 
of mind and deep devotional feeling. I occasionally 
noticed the moving of her lips ; then with her hand- 
kerchief she would wipe the tears from her eyes. 
After the meeting had progressed at some length, 
she arose. A brother arose at the same time, but 
gave way. She then commenced, in a subdued tone, 
to relate what God had done for her soul, occasion- 
ally pausing to give vent to her overflowing heart in 
tears. Among other things, she said that "she had 
not language to express what she felt in her heart of 
the goodness of God." When done speaking she fell 
on her knees, with her face on the mat on which she 
had been sitting, and continued for a time as if en- 
gaged with God in prayer. Thus passed away this 
most interesting love-feast. It was good to be there. 

The public meeting was one not soon to be for- 
gotten. We administered the sacrament of the Lord's 
supper to twenty-three. The hearts of most, if not 
all, were deeply affected. 

At night brother Marksman preached to a full 
attendance on the " one thing needful." The people 
heard the word gladly. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 199 

After the evening meeting, which closed about 
eight o'clock, we accompanied our friends from Carp 
river to their homes, and tarried with them for the 
night. I was led then to remark: "I sometimes won- 
der how I can endure such continued and hard exer- 
cise, and yet feel no inconvenience, only occasional 
weariness." 

Monday morning, about nine o'clock, we left for 
the Saut. We passed over the first eight or nine 
miles quite comfortably. But after we rounded Point 
Iroquois we encountered a severe snow-storm, driving 
full in our faces the rest of the way. But we reached 
home before night, finding all comfortable but our 
little son, who had been quite unwell during my ab- 
sence. Thus ended our trip during the crust-moon. 



17 



200 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER XIII. 

SUMMER'S TOUR AND THE MISSIONS EN ROUTE. 

On the 8th of June I left the Saut, on the schooner 
, to visit the missions. There were on board 



some eighteen, including crew and passengers — rather 
a motley mixture of Cornish, Belgians, Irish, and 
Americans. Some soon rendered themselves con- 
spicuous by their profanity. Several were seated 
astern, to whom the captain remarked: "Gentlemen, 
we have a very pious man on board; I hope we shall 
hear no profane language." He was not aware that 
the person to whom he alluded was in hearing, who 
immediately responded, "I hope the gentlemen will 
bear in mind that they are in the presence of God;" 
taking the liberty at the same time to expatiate on 
the evil of swearing, even as a social wrong, to say 
nothing of its moral turpitude. All readily acquiesced 
in what was said. But several afterward forgot them- 
selves, among whom was the captain himself. 

We arrived at La Pointe on the evening of the 
14th. We had alternate spells of fair sailing, head 
wind, rain, sunshine, and fog. A sudden squall struck 
us before we came into harbor, which gave all hands 
on board as much as they could attend to for a short 
time. As we were on the Lake during the Sabbath, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 201 

I endeavored once to preach to those on board. 
Whether any good was done or not, both the mes- 
senger and his message were treated with respect. 
At La Pointe I was kindly welcomed and hospitably 
entertained at the mission of the American Board. 

TEIP TO FOND DU LAC. 

I was obliged to lay over one day at La Pointe, to 
procure men and an outfit. "VVe now exchanged a 
schooner for a three-fathom birch-bark canoe. Sat- 
urday, the 16th, with two good voyagers, I left at 
half-past six, A. M., one of the men prepared with 
two small oars, the other and myself with each a pad- 
dle. Went about eight miles and stopped for break- 
fast. While the men were preparing our repast, I 
took out my old and well-tried Bible, and commenced 
reading, with a little surprise, as it was my lesson in 
course, Isaiah xliii, 1, 2: "But now thus saith the 
Lord that created thee, Jacob, and he that formed 
thee, Israel : Pear not ; for I have redeemed thee, 
I have called thee by thy name; thou art mine. 
When thou passest through the waters, I will be 
with thee; and through the rivers, they shall not 
overflow thee," etc. I had afterward, several times, 
occasion to rely on this cheering promise. 

The Lake was calm most of the day. Toward 
night wind was from the north-east, and a heavy sea 
rolling in toward the shore. We were obliged to 
camp rather early on this account. For this purpose 
we found a convenient nook, sheltered by a high sand 



202 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

cliff. In this wild and desolate spot we rested during 
the holy Sabbath. At times we were much annoyed 
by musketoes and black flies. My men were not 
Christians ; I, however, sung and read prayers to them 
in Ojibwa. Fanned by the Lake breeze, and cheered 
by the music of its surf, I spent the day happily in 
reading, meditation, and prayer. 

June 18. It thundered, lightened, and rained very 
hard during the past night. Early in the morning a 
torrent was rushing down from the cliff, just before 
our tent, forcing together great stones, and bearing 
sand and limbs and every thing before it, lacking but 
little of undermining our tent. A tree-top broke off 
and fell across the fire. The contents brought from 
the hill nearly filled up our little harbor. The water 
of the Lake all the rest of the way was turbid, from 
mixture of red sand and clay. We struck our tent 
at six o'clock, in the midst of a heavy fall of rain. 
Lake calm till eleven o'clock, A. M.; but we became, 
as the Indians say, ah-pi-che, sah-bah-we, that is, 
drenched. Now wind sprung up from the north-east. 
We ran into the River Brule — made a sail of an In- 
dian blanket — took some refreshment and put out to 
sea. Before we were out long we had all the wind 
we desired for our little craft. For a time the dense 
fog almost hid the shore, but it gradually disappeared. 
We made fine weather and gained the entrance of the 
St. Louis river before sundown, and camped about 
eight miles up from its mouth. 

June 19th we left our camp at four o'clock, A. M. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 203 

We found the river very high, and the lowland com- 
pletely overflown. It was extremely difficult to tell 
where and w T hich was the main channel. We were 
hemmed in with a dense fog, all around, and the men 
were puzzled to find the way. All the way the cur- 
rent was very rapid. One of the men went ashore 
and ascended a little hill, and saw, at a distance, some 
Indians taking up a net. We went to them and ob- 
tained directions. We had been on our course. The 
fog gradually scattered, and, with hard tugging, we 
reached the Fond du Lac mission at half-past nine 
o'clock, A. M., in good order for our breakfast. We 
passed several canoes w r ith Indians fishing, who called 
to us, "ba-kah chv-bah-qua" that is, stop and cook 
your breakfast. They seemed to feel a deep and 
special interest in the matter. We found brother 
Holt and wife well, and we were glad to meet each 
other again, even on a heathen shore. The native 
missionary, who was a member of the annual confer- 
ence, and his wife, had sadly fallen and left the place, 
doing irreparable injury to our mission. It is justice 
to them to say that they were led astray under the 
strongest and most exciting provocations. But we 
must be excused from entering into the unedifying 
details. 

FOND DU LAO MISSION. 

There was here, during the winter, a prospect of a 
good revival. Things looked more than encouraging; 
but the circumstance just mentioned cast a gloom 



204 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

over the prospect, and tended to dampen the efforts 
of the missionary. A school was taught, numbering 
twenty-eight scholars, and a Sabbath school consist- 
ing of about thirty scholars. Owing to the late 
freshet, things about the mission looked like deso- 
lation. The river had not been known to be so high 
in a long time. Where the wigwams of the Indians 
had stood, they passed with canoes, and they were 
forced to remove their lodges to the upland. The 
mission-garden and several other gardens had been 
submerged, several houses were surrounded with 
water, and nearly the whole looked like a great mor- 
tar-bed. With the exception of a few, the Indians 
here had made but little advancement from heathen- 
ism. But even here there had been good fruit, as a 
result of missionary toil. In some respects this was 
a point of importance ; but without a speedy change 
for the better, we had our serious doubts as to the 
propriety of continuing our efforts here. 

INDIAN COUNCIL. 

While here I met the Indians in council, to hear 
what they had to say about matters in general. The 
head chief, Shingobe, distinguished for nothing but 
his chiefship, was present, and Nah-gah-nup, a sub- 
ordinate chief, but the man of the band, and rather a 
marked character. Doctor Norwood thought him to 
be the most talented man in the Chippeway nation. 
He evidently thought himself to be a great man. He 
came to see me in the morning previous to the coun- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 205 

cil, dressed in a military coat highly ornamented — a 
gift from some one — with a cane in his hand, and 
with airs so lofty that he might have been mistaken 
for the lord of the land. Quite an assembly met, 
most of whom were miserably clad; some with their 
faces painted, others were blackened, and nearly all 
grotesquely ornamented according to Indian custom. 

I told the Indians that I had come as a stranger 
among them, was glad to see them, and, at their 
request, had met with them to hear what they had 
to say about matters connected with the mission. 
Spoke to them respecting the object of missions; 
told them I was anxious to learn what good the labors 
of the missionaries had done among them, and that 
their friends below often inquired after their welfare, 
and their progress in religion and civilization. I then 
gave way for a reply. After a little consultation, 
Nah-gah-nwp blew upon his hands, rolled up his shirt 
sleeves to his elbows, spoke a few words sitting, then 
came up and gave me his hand, and said in substance : 

"My friend, you are from a rich country, where 
every thing is fine and flourishing. You heard about us 
a number of years ago, and thought you would come 
and teach us, and preach the Gospel. As you came 
this way you found things look poorer and poorer. 
Very great difference when you came here. You 
found us very poor people, living in the woods. You 
always speak to us about the name of God. Now 
God is a charitable being. His disciples ought also to 
be charitable. Now I do n't see this charity. Indians 



206 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

are very poor and hungry, but the missionary does 
not feed them. And now I want to know who pays 
the money to support the mission? Do the white 
people below, or does it come from the Indian an- 
nuity? And as for the school-teacher, he does not 
do his work right. When men are hired to work 
they go at it early in the morning, and work all day. 
The missionary waits till the sun is up high, just as 
the farmer. If his boss were here perhaps he would 
do differently. But the teacher does not teach longer 
than one can smoke a pipe.* The Indian is like the 
wild fox in the woods. When we want to catch him 
we put bait in the trap. But you do not put on 
the bait; therefore, you do not succeed with the In- 
dians. And now I will say no more, and when you 
have spoken I will reply/' 

I answered his speech briefly, reminding him that, 
for several years, missionaries were sent to them at 
the expense of the Missionary Society, and that, since 
the treaty, they had drawn a small portion from the 
Indian annuity, but that still the Missionary Society 
bore most of the expense. As to our charity, I told 
him that we endeavored to do what we were sent 
to do — that we were not sent to feed them, but to 
preach the Gospel to them, to teach their children, 
and point out the way for them to be happy — that 
if they would only abandon their heathenism and go 



* The missionary thought this a pretty good eulogium on his services, 
as some of them could smoke a pipe nearly all the time. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 207 

to work as the white people do, they would not be hun- 
gry and go begging about for some one to feed them. 
I pointed them, for example, to the Indians at Kewa- 
wenon, and at Saut Ste. Marie, under the care of 
our missions. As to what he said about the teacher, 
I was not fully informed as to the facts in the case, 
but had reason to believe that, on a little more re- 
flection, he would be disposed to alter his speech. 
Told him what was customary below about teaching — 
that it would not be for the children's good to be 
kept in all day. And more than this, that the teacher 
was often compelled to desist from teaching for want 
of children; that Indians often suffer their children 
to run about and play instead of going to school. 
Sometimes a goodly number came, and sometimes 
very few. And finally, that the bait we put into 
the trap to catch the fox, was to present that before 
him which would improve him every way in body and 
in mind, and raise him up to the same station that the 
white people occupied — that this was the best bait 
we had to present. 

He arose again, and said : " If we employ a man 
to work he expects something to eat, and we feed 
him. If you want the Indians to do something you 
must feed them." He seemed to imply, in what he 
said, that the Indians were conferring a remarkable 
favor on the missionaries to send their children to 
school, and to attend the meetings, and that they 
ought, at least, to be fed, if not well paid for such 
meritorious acts. 



208 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

The head chief, a Catholic, made a few remarks, 
the principal of which were, that "they did not want 
our missionaries there any more ; and that the right 
to cut grass on a piece of wild meadow, for which 
brother Day, a previous missionary, had given him 
a coat, could not be granted any longer — that he 
would return the coat again [after having worn it 
about a year] to the mission." Of course we de- 
clined his generous offer. I told them plainly, in 
conclusion, that if they judged themselves unworthy 
of the Gospel, after having made sufficient trial, we 
should turn to others.* 

Here I became nearly discouraged respecting the 
prospect of going to Sandy Lake. An old and ex- 
perienced voyager told me that I could go, but should 
need the best kind of men; that we must carry canoe 
and all around all the rapids, which, he said, would 
take us seven days, only to ascend. Nearly all the 
Indians spoke very discouragingly. They said, "If 
you go you will drink water." They meant we would 
be drowned. The men who accompanied me from 
La Pointe became frightened, and were for going 
no farther. But I was favored with an interview 
with Dr. Norwood, employed in the geological survey 



* In regard to the kindness of our missionaries in feeding the Indians, 
the sick of some of those very persons, who uttered such loud complaints, 
were visited, almost daily, by brother Holt and his amiable wife, and food 
carried to them. Their hospitality, to the poor around, had a limit, that 
was their means. The other complaints, as I learned from reliable sources, 
were not founded in truth, but in extreme ignorance and selfishness. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 209 

on the north shore of Lake Superior, and well ac- 
quainted with that entire portion of the country, 
which fully satisfied me that the difficulties and dan- 
gers, though not inconsiderable, were magnified. In 
this view I was confirmed by conversation with Nah- 
gah-nup. I employed an additional man, well ac- 
quainted with the rivers. We took a Frenchman 
from Dr. Norwood's party, who desired to work his 
passage through to the Mississippi. Brother Holt 
concluded to accompany us. With a force of six we 
were prepared to oppose a pretty stiff current. But 
by adding to our strength we also increased our 
burden. Thursday, 21st of June, we were ready to 
start at eight o'clock, A. M. 

OUR ROUTE. 

About three miles from Fond du Lac, up the St. 
Louis river, commences what is called the Grand 
Portage. The distance across is called nine miles. 
Here is a succession of rapids, impracticable either 
to ascend or descend. Every thing must be carried 
by land; not in wagons, or on horses, but on men's 
backs. We were favored in being able to leave one 
canoe on this side, and get one of the North Fur 
Company's on the other side. Part of the way walk- 
ing was good; but, in places, quite muddy from re- 
cent powerful rains. We reached the end of this 
Portage at two o'clock, P. M. Here we stopped to 
gum our canoe, but were soon under way, stemming 
the rapid current. After some exertion, moving at 



210 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

a slow rate, we reached Knife Portage. Distance 
across is three and a half miles. The fullness of the 
river enabled us to shorten the portage a mile and a 
half. Here we landed safely, after having ascended 
one of the most dangerous places. We soon had all 
over the portage, and were camped for the night. 

Friday, 22d. We had a succession of rapids till 
we crossed Grand Rapids, at one o'clock, P. M. Some 
of these we had much difficulty in ascending. Poles 
were used when the water was not too deep. At 
times we succeeded by getting hold of bushes and 
limbs of trees, and thus pulling ourselves along. 
Sometimes when our paddles were insufficient we 
found it necessary to cordell; that is, to use a rope. 
But this could seldom be done, except for a- short 
distance, on account of trees, etc. Occasionally large 
trees were found lying in the rapids, which it was 
difficult to get around. We avoided some difficult 
rapids by following channels which the river had 
forced among the trees; but in one of these places 
we came very near breaking our canoe. Even here 
the water was very rapid. Having ascended the 
Grand Rapids, we were over the worst, although the 
current of the St. Louis is very strong all the way. 
We traveled till eight o'clock, P. M., and camped; 
were much annoyed by musketoes. During the night 
we had a heavy thunder-shower; lightning struck 
near us. 

Saturday, 23d. At half-past four o'clock we left 
our camp. At two o'clock, P. M., we had reached 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 211 

the mouth of East Savan river. This river was 
spread over all its bottoms; but we found smooth 
water, and current light, compared with what we had 
passed over. We now made good headway. Be- 
tween five and six o'clock a dark cloud arose before 
us, and distant thunder warned us of an approaching 
storm. As soon as we could find a convenient spot, 
we went ashore, and erected our tent. But this was 
scarcely done before a deafening peal of thunder fell 
near us, and the lurid lightning flashed in our faces, 
and, quick as thought, a hurricane swept by us, 
breaking off a large number of trees as if they were 
rushes. We all forsook the tent, and stood and took 
the driving storm, securing a position on the shore 
where we had no trees in range of the storm. We 
received a fine wetting, but no farther injury. The 
storm was fierce, but soon subsided, and we went on 
again. Just before sundown we reached the head 
of the river, and camped down on the wet grass, 
with water all around us, scarcely affording a place 
suitable for our tent. I thought I had often seen 
musketoes, but will not attempt to describe the salu- 
tations we here met. Supper was prepared, but our 
situation was so uncomfortable that we could scarcely 
eat. Another heavy thunder-shower now poured 
down on us. 

Sabbath, 24:th. We had now some twelve miles of 
land portage, and about four miles across Sandy Lake, 
to reach the mission. Had we been below, with an 
appointment thus near, we should have felt it our 



212 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

duty to go to it. Here we could only meet with our 
brethren once a year, and make a short stay at best, 
and besides were not situated for a quiet observance 
of the Sabbath. Accordingly, obeying the convic- 
tions of duty, we went into the mission in the early 
part of the day, and spent the afternoon with brother 
and sister Spates, our missionaries, in religious exer- 
cises, finding it rest and pleasure both to soul and 
body, to be out of a dismal swamp, and at the end 
of a fatiguing and perilous voyage. At four o'clock 
preached to the little company which assembled. God 
was with us of a truth. We all felt it good to wait 
on the Lord. For want of wine we did not admin- 
ister the sacrament of the Lord's supper either here 
or at Fond du Lac. It had been administered at both 
stations during the winter by brother Spates. 

Monday, 25th, was a very busy day with us. We 
had the temporal business of the mission to arrange; 
many things to talk about respecting the present 
condition and the future operations of the mission, 
and various calls to which attention must be given. 

FEATS OF A CONJURER. 

In the afternoon we were invited to go to the 
lodge of one of the chiefs, whose son was very sick. 
It was announced that an Indian medicine man would 
swallow some bones. The wigwam was spread around 
with blankets, leaving a square in the center for the 
fire. The invalid lay on one side, his father seated 
near him. On the other side were two plates of 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 213 

sugar, and spoons in them. Another plate contained 
water or broth. In this was a piece of horn cut off 
at each end so as to leave it hollow. It was about 
four inches long and perhaps three-quarters of an 
inch in thickness. Beside this was a bear's claw, 
with two brass nails in the large end, and several 
small pieces of bone, two to three inches long, and 
a fourth to a half an inch in thickness. The plate 
was covered with a rattle, made similar to their drum, 
with hieroglyphics painted on each side. It was 
about eight inches in diameter. The conjurer came 
and took his seat by the head of the sick man. An- 
other came in with a drum. The performer took a 
little pail of water and washed his hands — they cer- 
tainly needed it — and then rinsed out his mouth. 
Now he offered a kind of prayer to the Great Spirit. 
He stated that "it was made known to him when a 
little child that he should swallow bones; that his 
mother charged him not to make a show of this, and 
that it was not for the purpose of making a show 
that we had been invited to see the performance." 
He spoke very rapidly, and appeared to be in a kind 
of agony. During this the invalid showed signs of 
great distress, groaning and pressing upon his abdo- 
men with his hands, and changing his position. The 
prayer ended, he took his rattle and began to shake 
it, occasionally beating himself with it on one shoulder, 
then on the other, then on his back and breast in 
rapid succession, bending forward toward the plate, 
and drawing in his breath as if he would take in the 



214 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

bones without touching them. The man with the 
drum meanwhile kept up a constant drumming and 
jingling of little bells. Now he put his mouth to 
the plate, took one of the bones, and made a dreadful 
struggle as if attempting to swallow it, beating his 
back and shoulders with the rattle. Then he would 
spit it out, and take another, and thus he continued 
till he got them all in — bones, bear's claw, horn, and 
all — and, for aught any one could tell, had actually 
swallowed them. Though I watched his throat very 
narrowly, and could not perceive that he swallowed, 
still they had disappeared, and they went into his 
mouth. Then he vomited them all out again, during 
which his face was all contortions, and he writhed 
and sweat as if he had been in the agonies of death. 
Now he would take one of the bones in his mouth, 
and press it upon the body of the invalid, during 
which he appeared tranquil and serene. It acted on 
him like a charm. 

Query: Wherein does this differ essentially from 
modern spiritualism? Is not Satan at the bottom of 
the conjurer's art, and equally so as it respects mod- 
ern necromancy? We felt, at least, as if we were in 
the very precincts of his majesty's darkest domain. 

After this the Indians met in council to deliberate 
on matters concerning the mission. They spoke very 
highly of their missionary, called him their father, 
and said they loved him much. But they had some 
fault to find with him — he did not feed them quite 
enough. They would be glad also if he would give 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 215 

them more clothing; and they were especially desirous 
that he should keep a good supply of medicine on 
hand to doctor their sick. They complained of their 
inability to make their children go to school as they 
desired. They had much to say which amounted to 
but little; and, to close the whole, one of the chiefs 
remarked, " Our father is here, and does not give us 
any thing; if our mother were here, we know she 
would give us something." We left them with such 
instruction as we thought adapted to their case. 

Accompanied by the other missionaries, I went to 
see the Mississippi, distant only a half mile, where we 
bathed in the outlet of Sandy Lake, and returned 
again to the mission. Here we closed the day with a 
family prayer meeting. It is worth all the world to 
be in such a praying circle in a heathen land. I shall 
not soon forget that sweet, refreshing season. 

SANDY LAKE MISSION. 

I was happily disappointed when I came to see 
this spot. Here was the most complete contrast 
I ever beheld between paganism and Christianity, 
barbarism and civilization. On the one hand were 
rude lodges, with inmates rolling in filth, and steeped 
in the moral pollution of heathenism. In the midst 
of scenes the most revolting stood the Methodist mis- 
sion, a plain but comfortable log building. Brother 
S. had paled in a little door-yard, with shrubbery and 
plants tastefully growing within. He had inclosed 

his garden with high pickets, and had a small field 

18 



216 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

adjoining, planted mostly in potatoes, which looked 
very well for the time. Every thing without looked 
thrifty and prosperous. The gardens of most of the 
Indians had shared the same fate as at Fond du Lac; 
they were buried under the freshet. A time of suf- 
fering was anticipated among the Indians as a con- 
sequence, in the destruction of the rice crop. The 
mission had not been without a degree of prosperity, 
though small. There were but six members, and one 
on probation. The school had been better attended 
than any previous year. It numbered, for the year, 
twenty-three male scholars and nineteen female. The 
children had made some advancement in learning, 
but, as they were situated, we could not hope for 
rapid progress. In this survey we felt that our zeal 
should not rise and fall in proportion as our reports 
were full or destitute of glowing statistics, but in 
proportion to the value of one soul truly enlightened 
and saved. 

Tuesday, 26th, we parted with our friends at Sandy 
Lake, at eight o'clock, A. M. At five o'clock, P. M., 
the next day, we were at Fond du Lac. The distance 
between these stations is nearly one hundred miles. 
We passed with great rapidity over the frightful rap- 
ids, which caused us so much toil on our way up. 
Here we spent the night, and preached the next morn- 
ing to the little society. We left the mission at two 
o'clock, P. M., and by traveling all night Friday 
night we arrived at La Pointe on Saturday, before 
noon. Spent the Sabbath here, entertained* as usual, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 217 

at the mission of the American Board. I preached 
once to Bev. Mr. Hall's congregation. Monday we 
were wind-bound. Tuesday we left for Kewawenon, 
where, after hard toiling, we arrived on Friday at ten 
o'clock at night. We met with a happy greeting 
from brother Barnum's family, whose repose we were 
under the necessity of disturbing. Found sister B. 
in a declining state of health, and doubt entertained 
respecting her recovery. She regretted to be des- 
titute of the counsel and aid of a good physician, 
but was waiting, resignedly, the will of God. 

THE KEWAWENON MISSION. 

It was gratifying to witness the degree of pros- 
perity that had attended this mission. The Indians 
were in a high degree of improvement compared with 
those before named. Their crops this year were 
larger than any previous year. They were adding 
to the comforts of their dwellings, and increasing 
their stock of cattle. The Church numbered forty- 
three members, and nine on trial. The school num- 
bered twenty males and thirteen females, which also 
composed mostly the Sabbath school. The Indians 
were all busy on Saturday in making a road. I im- 
proved this time to transact business matters with 
the missionaries. In the evening we had a meeting 
of the Indians to attend to the business of the Church. 
Sabbath morning, at nine o'clock, we met for love- 
feast. It was truly a time of God's power. An 
invitation was given for persons to unite with the 



218 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Church, while we should sing. Several old back- 
sliders came and gave us their hand; one young man, 
also, who had lately renounced heathenism. The 
hymn was named, and all tried to sing, but the sing- 
ing was so interrupted with sobs and cries that we 
could scarcely proceed. At eleven o'clock the house 
was well filled, and I had the privilege of preaching 
to them, while they listened with deep and fixed 
attention to the word spoken. I trust the effort was 
not in vain. 

In the afternoon we baptized the young man who 
had renounced heathenism, and three infants, after 
which we administered the sacrament of the Lord's 
supper. In the evening I endeavored to preach, 
plainly and pointedly, to the white people, on the new 
birth. During the three years I had resided at this 
mission, I enjoyed many precious seasons with my 
Indian brethren, but none more so than this last. 
Nearly all the forenoon Monday was spent in con- 
ference with them, and I had literally to force myself 
away to leave for Eagle river at two o'clock, P. M., 
July 9th. Nearly all, from the least to the greatest, 
were on the dock to shake hands, and say bushoo, 
as we launched our canoe, bade them farewell, and 
departed. 

We arrived at Eagle river the next evening, where 
I took leave of my two voyageurs and the canoe which 
had accompanied me for nearly seven hundred miles. 
The men proved themselves to be trusty and faithful. 
Thev returned to La Pointe. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 219 

EAGLE RIVER MISSION. 

Rev. E. H. Day was the missionary at this station. 
He taught school all the year, and preached two or 
three times on the Sabbath. There was here a class 
of thirteen members, and two Sunday schools, num- 
bering about forty scholars. The missionary was 
indefatigable in his efforts to promote the cause of 
Christ, but counter influences were at work here which 
served to hedge up his way, and impede the work of 
religion. This was especially true of the prevailing 
intemperance. At a public meeting, which was nu- 
merously attended, an individual offered the following 
resolution, that "temperance, on Lake Superior, is 
all a humbug." By taking the business of presi- 
dent into his own hands, and putting the question to 
the crowd, it was carried with a hurra! Several, 
who before had felt themselves pledged to abstain 
from the accursed thing, were found returning to 
their cups. Whisky does most of the mischief at 
the mines. 

Brother Barnum came across from Kewawenon, 
and spent Saturday and Sabbath with us. The meet- 
ings of both Saturday evening and Sabbath were 
seasons of refreshing from God's presence. Sunday 
evening brother B. preached on the subject of mis- 
sions, and we took up a collection to aid the cause. 

I was compelled to remain in the vicinity of the 
Cliff Mine a week before I could obtain a passage 
to the Saut. On the 18th of July I went aboard 



220 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

the Napoleon, and arrived at home on the 20th, 
after an absence of six weeks. I had increasing 
cause of gratitude to an ever-watchful Providence 
for his kind care over myself and family during this 
period. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 221 



CHAPTER XIY. 

SAUT DE STE. MARIE MISSION. 

Little Rapids was still the rallying point for this 
mission, so far as the Indians were concerned. Here 
were the farm, the mission-house, chapel, and other 
buildings and conveniences. Missionary operations 
could have been prosecuted here with increasing ad- 
vantage, but for the fact that our location was on a 
Government Reserve, and the Indians were anxious 
to locate somewhere, in which there was a prospect 
of making a permanent home that they could call 
their own. They could not be persuaded that the 
Government would allow them to do this at Little 
Rapids. Their desire was to buy land and hold it in 
fee simple, without molestation. 

At this station we had a small class, regular preach- 
ing, and other religious exercises, a Sabbath school 
and a day school, numbering twenty-four scholars, 
taught by Rev. P. 0. Johnson, assisted by brother 
Marksman. Seven children were living in the mis- 
sion family, and were rapidly improving in every 
respect. Such was the state of things during the 
winter. 

In the early part of the following summer all the 
Indian families left Little Rapids and went to White 



222 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Fish Point, Lake Superior, to fish, and remained dur- 
ing the summer. Some would have returned sooner 
but for fear of the cholera, which had broken out at 
the Saut. With my advice brother Marksman fol- 
lowed the Indians, took lodging in a wigwam, and 
built a shelter, under which he taught school during 
the week, and preached on the Sabbath. His school- 
list showed fifty-two scholars, thirty-five of whom 
were boys. Owing to their fishing, the attendance 
was not always regular. The average was sixteen 
and a fraction. 

The work of religion seemed to be gradually ad- 
vancing despite the many obstacles which the scat- 
tered state of the Indians cast in the way. In the 
spring considerable repairs were made about the mis- 
sion farm, and the crop yielded well except the grass, 
which was much injured by drought. Our principal 
drawback here was the removal of several families to 
Na-om-i-kong, which made it evident that we must 
follow them to that locality or give up our efforts to 
evangelize them. The Indians desired us to establish 
a school at the place just named. But here was the 
commencement of new labors and increasing respon- 
sibilities. 

When the business of the district did not call the 
superintendent to other parts of the work, he kept up 
regular religious services among the white citizens of 
the village of Ste. Marie. 

In the interval of the previous conference Rev. J. 
D. Bingham, son of the resident Baptist missionary, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 223 

came to the Saut with the intention of ministering to 
the white population of that place, providing there 
should be a suitable opening. He resided in his 
father's family during the winter, and preached every 
Sabbath afternoon in the same house in which our 
meetings were held. We had the privilege usually of 
attending each other's services. Those public meet- 
ings were always agreeable and harmonious, and, we 
trust, beneficial to the community. Mr. B.'s wife is a 
daughter of Elder Knapp, the revivalist, and a well- 
educated and refined Christian lady. In the early 
part of the following summer he took leave of the 
Saut, and went below to find a field of greater 
promise. 

At the commencement of the year our congrega- 
tions were small. But we were encouraged, as the 
year advanced, to have them gradually and constantly 
enlarge, and they were generally characterized by 
seriousness and thoughtful attention to the word 
preached, and occasionally we were favored with 
seasons of melting mercy to the little few who bore 
the Christian name. 

The winter was a very severe one. About the mid- 
dle of February the thermometer fell as low as 35° 
and 40° below zero, and the snow was five feet deep 
on a level. But the river opened about the first of 
May, so that on the 9th we had two arrivals, the 
steamers Tecumseh and Franklin. All was now sud- 
denly changed to a whirl of business. A company 
of troops was sent up to occupy the fort, and we were 



224 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

obliged to give up our quarters and take up our 
abode in a log-cabin in the outskirts of the vil- 
lage, the best we could find, and we were glad to 
obtain that. 

During my absence to visit the upper missions, 
Rev. P. 0. Johnson ministered to the people of the 
village. 

August 3d was the day appointed by the President 
of the United States, to be observed as a day of fast- 
ing and prayer to almighty God, to arrest the ravages 
of that desolating scourge, the cholera. To this the 
attention of the people was called. We met at six 
o'clock, A. M., and held a prayer meeting. At half- 
past ten o'clock I endeavored to preach to the people. 
Rev. Mr. Bingham, the Baptist missionary, preached 
at two o'clock, P. M. The day was rainy and the 
meetings were thinly attended. We felt as though 
the people did not realize, as they should have done, 
the loud call for humiliation before God. 

Is it not a little singular that the very next day the 
fell destroyer appeared in our midst, in the sudden 
death of Mr. Stevens, the proprietor of the Ste. 
Marie's Hotel? On Sabbath I was called to attend 
his funeral. The next day we had four corpses in 
town, three Indians and a Frenchman. 

Wednesday there was one death. Thursday two 
were taken in the morning and died before night. 
One was Captain Daniel Hicks, of Adrian; the other 
was a Frenchman, who had lived an abandoned 
life, and died in most excruciating agony. This was 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 225 

pronounced the most melancholy day that had ever 
been witnessed at the Saut. Three men lay sick in 
the fort, two of whom were in the hospital. During 
the prevalence of the scourge our time was much 
taken up in visiting the sick and dying, attending 
funerals, etc. 

Alarming as were those instances of mortality, the 
epidemic was mercifully restrained in its ravages. 
Many felt symptoms of the disease who were enabled 
to counteract them. Through God's goodness all our 
missionaries, and the Indians connected with us, were 
preserved. 

The conference year was now closing. August 
24th, accompanied by my family, we took steamer for 
Detroit, where we spent the next Sabbath. Thence 
we hastened to Adrian, the seat of the conference, 
the home of several relatives and numerous old and 
tried friends. Here I spent the Sabbath previous to 
the conference, and preached in the morning to a 
large and attentive congregation, and saw many 
familiar faces, but some had gone to the spirit-land. 
Brother Hicky gave us, in the afternoon, one of his 
warm Holy Ghost sermons. The late lamented Hin- 
man thrilled the evening assembly with an eloquent 
and elaborate discourse on "the connection of knowl- 
edge and virtue." The conference began and passed 
along very harmoniously; but the Sabbath it em- 
braced was a season of interest never to be forgotten. 
We met at the Methodist Church at eight o'clock, 
A. M. The Lord's supper was administered, immedi- 



226 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

ately after the ordination of the deacons, by Bishop 
Hamline. Then followed the relation of Christian 
experience. What a heaven below was here realized ! 
In immediate connection with this, the Bishop, in his 
own peculiarly-impressive way, baptized our infant, 
Henry Eugene. The religious services which fol- 
lowed were all signalized by the presence of the 
great Head of the Church. To us it was a most 
memorable conference, but thus much must suffice. 

By the 23d of September we found ourselves at 
our post again at Saut Ste. Marie, and enjoying a 
blessed Sabbath with the missionaries and others, 
bound for Lake Superior. There were with us Rev. 
E. H. Day, of Eagle river, Rev. R. C. Crane, on his 
way to Kewawenon, Rev. P. 0. Johnson and Rev. P. 
Marksman, of the Saut; also, brother Pulsifer and 
wife, going as teachers to La Pointe, under the direc- 
tion of the American Board. Brother P. was de- 
tained with us eight weeks before he could take pas- 
sage to La Pointe. 

At our communion season held at Little Rapids, at 
this time, it was most pleasing to see Mr. Babcock, of 
Detroit, the Indian Agent, and his clerk, Mr. Smith, 
kneeling at the same bench with some of our Indian 
brethren, and partaking with them of the holy com- 
munion. How completely does the love of Christ 
annihilate every principle and feeling of caste, and 
enable all of God's children to meet as brethren! 
Our religious meetings, both at the village and at 
Little Rapids, were seasons of spiritual good. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 227 



CHAPTER XV. 

TRAVELS AND EFFORTS AMONG THE INDIANS 

DURING THE FALL AND WINTER-EFFORTS 

AMONG THE WHITE POPULATION. 

Our missionary brethren, after some detention at 
the Saut, were at their posts doing battle, valiantly, 
for the cause of Christ. With the sanction and en- 
couragement of our Missionary Board, it was thought 
best to build a mission-house at Naomikong. This 
place had been noted as a great fishery, and hence 
the desire of the Indians to concentrate here. Soon 
after our return from conference I employed two 
carpenters to put up the body of a plain hewed-log- 
house, one story and a half high. Brother Marks- 
man and myself, accompanied, as far as the saw-mill, 
by another person, went to Naomikong in a large 
batteau. The first day we encountered adverse winds, 
and just as we neared Point Iroquois, one of those 
whirlwinds, common in that region, swept by us, 
making a terrible roaring, and might have capsized 
us, but brother M.'s instinctive perception of such 
dangers enabled him to take the warning before it 
reached us. By a desperate effort we got out of its 
track in time. It passed us with great force, and 
was over in a moment's time. We had been toiling 



228 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

long — indeed, it was three o'clock at night before we 
had landed on the little island near the point, and 
were ready to rest our weary limbs after our pro- 
tracted toils. 

The next day we reached Naomikong, about four 
o'clock, P. M. Our carpenters arrived the same day. 
The next morning, 26th of October, we selected a 
site for the mission in a beautiful pine grove, on the 
shore of a little cove, or bay. Aided by the chiefs 
we soon cleared a spot for the building, and the car- 
penters had commenced to get out the timber. After 
night, a fine moonlight night, we manned a large 
batteau with six Indians, went to the saw-mill and 
got a load of lumber, and returned just before mid- 
night. Rest, even in a tent, was sweet after such 
exertion. Saturday we went and got another boat- 
load of lumber. This work ended, we were glad to 
lay aside our secular employment and prepare for 
the Sabbath. 

On the Lord's day we had several religious services. 
One thing gave us great pleasure — the Sabbath was 
quietly observed by all the Indians. Although it was 
in the hight of the fishing season, not one was seen 
to go to his nets. Monday and Tuesday we worked 
on the mission premises. Wednesday we left for 
home. After reaching Point Iroquois we had head 
wind, and toiled hard till one o'clock at night before 
we camped. Thursday morning, by eight o'clock, we 
had arrived safely, thankful to our heavenly Father 
for his preserving mercy. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 229 

SECOND TRIP. 

November 13th we left again for Naomikong. 
Had, as usual, great perplexity in getting men, and 
every thing in trim for the journey. We had calm 
most of the way. Thursday and Friday, aided by J. 
M., nailed the shingles on our mission-house. Two 
hard days' work, but, by beginning at daylight and 
working till dark, it was accomplished. We should 
have returned the next day, but were held by adverse 
wind. Sabbath we had religious services, among 
which was the administration of the Lord's supper. 
We were blessed in waiting upon God, but nothing 
unusual characterized the meetings. Monday, by 
eight o'clock at night, we had reached home. 

THIRD TRIP. 

January 3, 1850, Rev. P. 0. Johnson and myself 
went to visit this station. We rode the first six miles, 
and stopped over night, and held meeting with several 
families residing there. Next day, after a snow-shoe 
walk of twenty-two miles, we arrived at the saw-mill. 
At night we held meeting with the Waishkee Indians 
residing here. Saturday we followed a rough trail 
leading through the woods, most of the way, to reach 
the mission — distance some eight miles. On our 
arrival found brother and sister Marksman hard at 
work making preparations for the Sabbath. Our new 
mission-house looked very neat and comfortable. We 
were glad to find such a home in the wilderness, 



230 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

and to share, for a time, in the results of much per- 
plexity and hard toil. We spent the day in visiting 
among the Indians. Brother Johnson preached at 
night. To those present it was a time of spiritual 



Sabbath morning we had a memorable love -feast. 
The Indians are apt to speak too long in the class 
meeting or the love-feast. But not so here. Twenty- 
two spoke in less than an hour. Besides, a full pro- 
portion of the time was occupied in singing. Im- 
mediately after love-feast we administered the Lord's 
supper. Twenty-eight communed. Both rooms of 
the mission-house were filled, and the stairs crowded 
with children. At an invitation thirteen came forward 
to unite with the Church. One had been a Roman 
Catholic — three were children. It was a time of 
God's power in the congregation ; so much so that 
we felt constrained to dispense with the usual sermon 
at that hour, and turn it into a prayer meeting. And 
such was the engagedness of the members and seek- 
ers that the meeting lasted till one o'clock, P. M. 
Like Peter, on the mount of vision, we felt to say, 
"it is good to be here." 

Just now old mother Waishkee arrived, having 
walked all the way from the saw-mill. Finding that 
she was too late she turned about for home, to get 
there, if possible^ to attend the meeting at night, at 
her son's. After getting some refreshment we started 
for the saw-mill, accompanied by brother Marksman. 
Just before our arrival we passed the old lady, who 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 231 

was trudging along, evidently very weary. Now we 
met her youngest son, a youth of some eighteen 
years, going to meet his mother, bearing in his hand 
some shak-gah-mit-ta. " Well/' say you, " what was 
that?" It was nothing less than some tea, which he 
brought in the nee-bish-ah-Jcick f or teapot. An act 
this of great kindness to his aged and infirm mother. 
"What a striking evidence of filial affection! But 
such a mother ought to have loving and dutiful 
children.* 

We met at seven o'clock, P. M., at the chiefs. 
There were about twenty present, mostly Indians. 
After preaching I administered the Lord's supper 
to six persons, besides the preachers. The power of 
God was strikingly manifest. Old sister W. was 
wonderfully blessed. It was some time before she 
could sufficiently restrain her sobs and cries to receive 



* Croesus, the Lydian king, once inquired of Solon "which of man- 
kind, in all his travels, he had found the most truly happy. 'One Tel- 
lus,' replied Solon, 'a citizen of Athens, a very honest and good man, 
who lived all his days without indigence, had always seen his country 
in a flourishing condition,' etc. As he flattered himself of being ranked 
in the second degree of happiness, he asked him, 'who of all those he 
had seen was next in felicity to Tellus ?' Solon answered, ' Cleobis and 
Biton, of Argos, two brothers, who had left behind them a perfect 
pattern of fraternal affection, and of respect due from children to their 
parents. Upon a solemn festival, when their mother, a priestess of 
Juno, was to go to the temple, the oxen that were to draw her not being 
ready, the two sons put themselves to the yoke, and drew their mother's 
chariot thither, which was above five miles distant. All the mothers of 
the place, filled with admiration, congratulated the priestess on the piety 
of her sons/" etc. (Rollin's History, vol. i, pp. 301, 302.) See the 
account above where this old lady was drawn on a hand-train, about six 
miles, to meeting by her daughters-in-law. 



232 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

the cup of blessing. She doubtless felt well paid for 
having walked sixteen miles to worship the Great 
Spirit. Monday, after a walk of about thirty miles, 
as our trail led us, we reached home. Some places 
passed over ice so rough as to render it extremely 
severe and difficult crossing. Brother J. bruised his 
toes badly. But we were safely home, and had much 
cause for thankfulness. 

FOURTH TRIP. 

March 29th brother Johnson and myself went again 
to visit the station at N. What till then was a nov- 
elty, we took a sled and two horses. Indeed, it is 
but rarely that the ice on Lake Superior will admit 
of this. Some places it was heavy going for the 
team, on account of a late fall of snow; but before 
nine o'clock at night we were at Naomikong. We 
found sister Marksman in poor health. 

Saturday was spent in visiting the Indians. They 
were considerably scattered; had just commenced 
sugar-making — a late beginning — evidence of the 
backwardness of the season. We met at night for 
divine worship. On Sabbath we had love-feast, 
preaching, and the sacrament of the Lord's supper. 
The meetings were not so deeply interesting as those 
before mentioned. We had reason to fear that the 
enemy had been at work sowing tares among the 
people. We went over to the saw-mill, and held 
meeting at night. Returned to the Saut the next 
day. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 233 



RELIGIOUS SERVICES AT THE VILLAGE. 

The moral soil here appeared as cold and sterile 
as the physical. Still we endeavored in the discharge 
of duty to hope against hope. In pleasant weather, 
when there was no arrival of mails or steamboats, 
our meetings were well attended, and were often 
seasons of interest and profit. But it frequently 
seemed that the seed sown fell by the wayside, and 
was devoured by the fowls of the air. Balls, pleas- 
ure parties, business, any and every thing else, save 
the concerns of the soul, attracted the attention and 
occupied the time of the great mass of the com- 
munity. As the season advanced our congregations 
enlarged. During my long absence in the summer 
the meetings were kept up by brother Johnson. Min- 
isters from abroad often preached to our people dur- 
ing the traveling season. 

Sabbath, July 21st, I preached to a very attentive 
congregation on occasion of the death of Zachary 
Taylor, late President of the United States, which 
had occurred on the 9th inst., from the words, " The 
fashion of this world passeth away." 

In connection with other duties, I had charge 
when at home of an interesting Bible class. In our 
religious meetings we were favored with mercy drops 
and gently-distilling grace, if not copious showers. 
With all our discouragements, we had reason to be- 
lieve that we were employed in our Master's business, 
and that our labor was "not in vain in the Lord." 



234 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER XVI. 

TRIPTO SANDY LAKE — SCENES AND INCIDENTS. 

Thursday, May 16th, I took passage on board the 
propeller Independence to visit the Lake Superior 
missions. I had as my traveling associate Mr. Saw- 
yer, who was on his way to Bad river as a school- 
teacher, under the direction of the American Board. 
Our boat had been altered from a passenger into a 
freight craft, and was not very comfortable or agree- 
able for passengers. The mate's room was assigned 
to us, though in the worst part of the boat to feel 
the motion. We had, as was too common, annoy- 
ances aboard, arising chiefly from drinking and pro- 
fanity. After we passed Points au Pin a stiff head 
wind gave us a very rough and chopped-up sea, and 
made me quite seasick. We ran into Waishkees 
Bay, and found shelter. Saturday, 18th, we passed 
White Fish Point. At four o'clock, P. M., Michipi- 
coton Island was in sight to the north-west, and the 
Pictured Rocks to the south-west. 

Sabbath, 19//L It commenced blowing from the 
north-west about four o'clock, A. M. At eight 
o'clock it blew very hard, and got up a very rough 
sea. I became very sick. Our ship was badly 
trimmed — too much lading forward. She ran her 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 235 

bows too much under the seas. The captain had de- 
signed to make for Grand Island or Presque Isle; 
but the stern was so much out of water that the 
boat would not mind her helm. At nine o'clock the 
storm was increasing, and we were taking in consid- 
erable water. Our boat rolled like a log. Stoves, 
tables, barrels, boxes, trunks, etc., were thrown about 
in utter confusion. I left my berth, wrapped up in a 
large quilt, and lay on the floor. In this manner I 
avoided farther seasickness. At one o'clock, P. M., 
the boat labored hard and made bad weather. I 
heard the captain say, in a low tone, "She is run- 
ning under as fast as she can ;" four feet of water in 
the hold forward. Five horses and four oxen in the 
bows had a serious time. The horses got loose, and 
were made fast again with much trouble and risk. 
The mate was washed under them two or three times. 
Only one of the oxen survived; the three to lee- 
ward actually drowned; and a more pitiable sight I 
had seldom seen than those three oxen lying dead, 
side by side. And there they still remained to weigh 
us down; they could not be removed. More than 
five tuns of hay were on the upper deck, considerable 
of which was now thrown overboard. But for this 
the captain thought we must have gone to the bot- 
tom. The pump was worked briskly, and several 
were kept bailing near the engine. The water had 
nearly reached the fire. By four o'clock, P. M., the 
wind began to die away; still we had a heavy sea. 
We were soon measurably relieved, being sheltered 



236 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

by Manito Island and Point Kewenaw. Before sun- 
down we took supper, or rather breakfast, as it was 
our first meal for the day ; at the same time doubled 
Point Kewenaw. Evening was delightfully clear, but 
cold. The storm had passed, and all was stillness 
and calm. The land of the Point loomed up to our 
left in grandeur and majesty. The sun bathed his 
golden plumes in the pure blue element, and dis- 
appeared. The light-house from Manito Island shed 
a soft, clear light, which we saw for miles, till it 
seemed to sink in the Lake. Meanwhile light from 
the Copper Harbor light-house was now clearly seen, 
and now it disappeared, alternately, till we came 
abreast. 

By the erection of those light-houses a great ben- 
efit has been conferred on mariners and the traveling 
public generally. We had once before entered this 
harbor in the night — a dark night too — when our 
only beacon was a globe lamp, sent out in a yawl, 
and placed upon a lone rock in the channel. Such 
had been the march of improvement in the brief 
space of a few years, prior to which the cheerful 
light of the camp fire had served as a beacon to the 
Indian in his bark canoe, to give him notice of im- 
pending danger. 

By ten o'clock at night we were all safe within 
harbor. The holy Sabbath had passed without afford- 
ing an opportunity for public worship. But seldom 
had I felt a greater calm within than during this 
stormy day. How good is it at such times to be 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 237 

able, as the "untutored Indian," only more intel- 
ligently, 

u To see God in clouds, 

And hear him in the wind ;" 

and to feel, at all times, that " underneath are the 
everlasting arms." 

Monday visited Fort Wilkins. Every thing still 
looked neat and tasteful, but it was nearly deserted. 
So was also Copper Harbor. Snow was still visible 
along the shore. We ran into Agate Harbor, and 
were detained nearly a whole day to take on wood. 
In the night ran up opposite Eagle river, and at one 
o'clock, A. M., were aground on the reef. We did 
not get loose till nearly ten. Stopped some nine 
hours at the Ontonagon. On the 23d we reached 
La Pointe in time to dine at the mission of the Amer- 
ican Board. 

During the afternoon we made arrangements for 
our coasting voyage. The N. F. Company furnished 
me with two men and a boat. Mr. Carlton, the black- 
smith, from Fond du Lac, was to accompany us as 
far as his home. 

May 24th left La Pointe at six o'clock, A. M., a 
delightful day, and made a pretty good run. We 
reached Cranberry river, some forty-six miles from 
La Pointe, and camped at eight o'clock, P. M. 

Saturday, 25th, we arose between three and four 
o'clock and commenced our journey, hoping to reach 
Fond du Lac before Sabbath; a long pull, some sixty 
miles, before us. It rained part of the forenoon. 



238 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Had wind from nearly all quarters through the day, 
and a heavy rolling sea. But by a vigorous effort 
we had landed at Fond du Lac by half-past twelve 
o'clock at night, and were under the mission roof. 
We were much favored in making so quick a trip. 
Brother Holt and his family were out nine days on 
the same route the fall previous. 

Sabbath preached twice to the Indians that came 
out, few in number, and fewer that seemed to interest 
themselves in the message of the Gospel. Monday 
transacted the business connected with the mission, 
and met the Indians again in council. They appeared 
much more mellow in their feelings, less haughty and 
dictatorial than the previous year. Still they had 
much fault to find about matters so trifling as not 
to be worth naming. 

Tuesday, 28th, was waked very early by the sing- 
ing of a whippowil. Arose before four o'clock, and 
left Fond du Lac by half-past six. At seven com- 
menced crossing Grand Portage. My men went ahead 
on Monday, and carried the things over the Portage. 
John Street, interpreter at Fond du Lac, accompanied 
us. By half-past ten we were over the Grand Port- 
age. At twelve we had crossed Knife Portage. Here 
we dined, gummed our canoe, and left at half-past two, 
P. M. At seven, P. M., we had ascended the Grand 
Rapids, and were camped on a beautiful green, near 
the delightful pine grove which overlooked the Rapids. 

At the end of Knife Portage we overtook Mrs. 
Hughs, daughter of Mr. Oaks, of La Pointe, on her 






MISSIONARY LIFE. 239 

way to the Mississippi. She had lost her husband 
about a year before, and was moving with her two 
little fatherless children. She had a fine large canoe, 
and two excellent voyageurs. We had traveled in 
company for the afternoon, and now our tents stood 
close together, and a bright blazing fire between, an- 
swering for us all. There noted in my journal: "I 
feel great peace within in waiting on Gocl, and great 
confidence in his blessing on the work of my hands. 
Have the assurance that God is with me, and what 
more can I desire? Only a greater manifestation of 
his presence. for grace to love and serve him 
more !" 

Wednesday, 29th, we were up at four o'clock, 
breakfasted, and were ready to leave before six. 
Made a fine run for the day. The two canoes kept 
in company, and in the evening we camped together, 
a short distance up the East Savan river. Our men 
had worked hard, and we pitched our tents in good 
season to be rested for the morrow. It had been a 
cold, windy day, and was followed by a clear, frosty 
night. But all was cheerfulness about our bright 
camp fire. Just at nightfall a little bird was singing 
most sweetly near us. The frogs were making the 
air vocal with their homely song. The stars began 
to light up the heavens — and how rich those countless 
globes of light in the transparency of a northern 
sky! All we saw and heard conspired to declare 
"the glory of God," and ^o show forth "his handy- 
work." 

20 



240 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Thursday, 30th, we were ready to leave our resting- 
place by five o'clock, A. M. A delightful day. We 
proceeded steadily, but slowly, up the Savan, the most 
serpentine river I ever saw. Now we would go to 
the right, then to the left ; now the direction we had 
come, and then the contrary, going a long distance 
to gain a little. But by noon we had reached the 
head of the Savan river, and were crossing the Savan 
Portage. By three o'clock, P. M., we were at Sandy 
Lake, found a canoe, and by making a sail out of a 
quilt, we sailed over, and at four o'clock we were 
happy to meet our missionaries once more, and find 
all well. They were taken by surprise at our getting 
along so early. 

During the evening a goodly number of the Indians 
came out to see me. Among these was an old woman, 
who had renounced heathenism the winter before and 
embraced Christianity. She said that she was very 
glad that No-she-sha, that is, her grandson, as she 
called me, had come to see her. She went by the 
name of JVo-Jco, that is, grandmother. It is an ab- 
breviation of JVo-Jco-mis. 

Friday we observed as a day of fasting and prayer. 
In the morning visited a poor sick Indian, who was 
near death's door. He could say but little. The 
Indian medicine man had performed over him for 
some time, but brother Spates had told him plainly 
of the wickedness of these heathen rites, and he had 
turned him off. Made a few visits in the afternoon. 
At four o'clock, P. M., we called the people together 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 241 

for worship. Quite a congregation assembled, to 
whom I preached. 

WAR-DANCE. 

Previous to our meeting a large company had col- 
lected in another place, and were engaged in a war- 
dance. They were almost naked, and were painted 
most grotesquely. Their heads were dressed with 
painted feathers and trinkets. One danced in a buf- 
falo skin with horns on his head. Four or five were 
drumming while the others danced. Those gymnastics 
were vulgar and most revoltingly unseemly. They 
danced around a grave in the open air. Occasionally 
they would yell like savages ; then they would sit down 
and smoke, and at intervals one would make a speech. 
Before our meeting had progressed far several of 
those wild painted creatures came in to hear the 
word of the Lord. 

This war-dance was gotten up by some of the 
Indians who seemed determined to go to war with 
the Sioux, who a short time previous had murdered 
some fourteen of the Chippeways at Stillwater, and 
one near Sauk Rapids. This massacre was com- 
mitted under the influence of intoxication. Since 
this horrible affair three or four of the Chippeways 
had killed a Sioux in the vicinity of Fort Snelling. 

Saturday I preached again in the forenoon. The 
congregation was not large. I notified them that I 
would meet with them in the afternoon to hear from 
them about matters and things which concerned them. 



242 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

Before the meeting brothers S. and J. were down 
among the lodges. A company of Indians, wrapped 
in their dirty blankets and with their long pipes, 
passed by. They were about to smoke over some 
important subject upon which a decision must be 
made. We soon found out what was to pay, as a 
result of the subject discussed. Now several Indians 
were driving the Government oxen ; many others were 
standing and looking on. There was one running 
with a gun. He fired and the ox dropped. They 
gathered around like a drove of hungry wolves ; took 
large stones and beat the ox in the head till they had 
killed him. In a very short time he was cut into 
pieces and in process of cooking. The ox-killing 
business kept the Indians back from the meeting till 
late. But at length we had a pretty good turn-out, 
and an interview of considerable interest. 

The old chief was not present, although he had 
promised the day before to attend. He was a weak, 
fickle-minded creature, and of but little account, un- 
less it was to discuss the merit of something to be 
appropriated to the stomach from the race of bipeds 
or quadrupeds. 

The position taken by I-ah-be-hva-we-dung, the 
speaker, and who, in point of talent, stood at the 
head of the band, produced a good effect, and is 
worthy of record. He first addressed himself to the 
Indians, substantially as follows : " I want to be civ- 
ilized. Who knows how soon we are going to be 
removed away from this place? Perhaps I will be 






MISSIONARY LIFE. 243 

in one place, and my wife in another, and my chil- 
dren in another. Some of us go to listen to the 
missionaries, and when we go home we say, who are 
these men who come to talk to us? I do not care 
whether you laugh at me or not, I am determined to 
pursue a different course." 

Martin Luther made a short speech, addressed to 
me, in which he expressed his thanks that I had been 
preserved to meet with them once more.. He said 
that "he was poor, but he was not going to do as 
the Indians at Fond du Lac — want the missionary to 
pay him for coming to meeting." He said, "Our 
missionary has too much to do to be left alone; he 
ought to have more help. I hope you will send 
somebody to assist him." Martin was one of our 
Christian Indians, and a worthy man. On one occa- 
sion I felt myself rebuked by his piety. He had 
assisted in carrying our things across the portage. 
We had dined together, and were about to separate. 
Martin proposed that we should pray first, which 
would not have been done had he not been thus 
mindful. Truly religion is the same wherever found. 
Those that love God love the atmosphere of prayer. 

After he sat down I-ah-be-hva-ive-dung arose, and 
made a speech that displayed considerable eloquence. 
But to realize its power the man must be seen and 
heard. He had nothing on but his moccasins, and 
an old dirty blanket drawn around his body, with 
his arms and shoulders bare. He advanced with a 
firm step, and gave me his hand. He commenced : 



244 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

"My friend, I want to say a few words. I am 
going to speak very plainly. What I say does not 
come out of the mouth of a chief. I look behind 
my back, and see what I have done. I am going to 
turn over a new leaf. I am very poor. I have no 
shirt but the black shirt. I shall not ask those who 
have no shirts to go with me.* I am determined to 
go with them that have shirts, [the missionaries and 
other Christians.] I shall look to that stove, [point- 
ing to the stove, as one of the fruits of civilization.] 
If the Great Spirit is willing, he will receive me; 
if not, he will not. I agree with my brother that 
has just spoken, that our missionary has not had 
sufficient help. I hope that the time will come when 
some of my children will be able to write such a 
letter as you read from my cousin, [Peter Ringing 
Sky, who was then attending school at the Albion 
Seminary, Michigan.] This is all I have to say. 
You may depend on my word." 

After the meeting I-ah-be-twa-we-dung came into 
the mission-house. I gave him a shirt. I told him 
I gave him that to cover his body, and I hoped that 
he would pray to the Lord Jesus that he would grant 
him the robe of righteousness to cover his soul. I 
conversed with him also with reference to his being 
baptized and married in a Christian manner. 

Sabbath, June 2. Early in the morning had an 



* The idea here intended is, probably, that he should not select such 
for his associates. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 245 

interview with I. and his wife. She was willing to 
be married, but wanted to wait and listen awhile to 
the missionary before she was fully prepared to 
renounce heathenism. She thought that she should 
soon follow her husband; was willing that he and 
the children should be baptized. She had been a 
great heathen — a medicine woman, and one who ini- 
tiated others into those heathen rites. The conces- 
sions she here made, and the steps she took, were 
quite an advance for her. About 10 o'clock we got 
the Indians out for love-feast — it was an unusually 
interesting time. God's power was displayed in our 
midst. The little company of witnesses for the Savior 
spoke very feelingly. 

It was after noon before we met for public worship. 
At the commencement I married I-ah-be-twa-we-dung, 
and baptized him and his children. Named him Ben- 
jamin F. Tefft. His children, the three present, which 
were baptized, we named Julia, Abby, and Caroline, 
the last two after my wife and daughter. Then read 
the ten commandments* In the evening we met for 
the sacrament of the Lord's supper. No formal ser- 
mon was preached in connection with any of these 
services, but the explanations and remarks inter- 
spersed through the whole amounted to about the 
same thing. This last season was a very precious 
one to all who knew any thing about experimental 
religion. The services were closed and the benedic- 
tion pronounced, but no one made any motion to 
leave the house. They remained, as if waiting for 



246 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

something more. We sung a hymn or two, during 
which time B., one who had been reclaimed from a 
backslidden state, seemed overpowered with the pres- 
ence of God, cried aloud, and got down on his knees 
to weep and pray. We then had a season of prayer 
together, and it was a time of melting mercy. When 
the Indians commenced to leave the house the Chris- 
tian ones came and gave the missionaries their hand. 
The expression was repeated to each other, Ong-wam- 
e-ze, that is, be courageous. I.'s wife brought the little 
children I had baptized to shake hands with me, the 
eldest first, and so on. She took the infant's hand 
and put it into my hand, as a token that it now 
belonged to us. She did not offer her own hand 
because she had not yet been baptized, and she seemed 
to think she was either unworthy, or had no right 
to do so. 

Martin Luther went and took her by the hand, and 
exhorted her not to let her husband and children leave 
her behind. Then he took I-ah-be-twa-we-dung by 
the hand, and gave him a most affectionate exhorta- 
tion to steadfastness. 

During all the exercises of the day a number of 
wild Indians crowded into the house, and looked on 
with astonishment. It began to appear to us as if 
the Lord had commenced a very gracious work, and 
was about to open a great door of usefulness in 
that wilderness after so long sowing the seed. 

Just before our last meeting a company of young 
men, stripped, painted, and decorated with feathers, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 247 

bells, etc., about their heads and arms, were playing 
ball.* Such are the strange contrasts constantly 
meeting the missionary. How ignorant, how de- 
praved and wretched are those poor creatures without 
the Gospel! Their only hope, their only salvation, 
is in this. As they are, they are literally " without 
Christ and without hope in the world." 

Before taking leave of Sandy Lake it may be well 
to name the deep afflictions through which the Indians 
had passed the previous winter. It was anticipated 
the year before that the very high waters would de- 
stroy the rice crop, and, if so, many of the Indians 
must starve. This had now become matter of affect- 
ing history. In fact, famine, with its terrible dis- 
closures, was upon them. Brother and sister Spates 
both wrote us touching accounts of this calamity. 
In view of this fate as approaching, the missionary 
had ordered a larger supply of provisions than usual. 
He had been blessed the previous season with a fine 
potato crop. By this means multitudes were fed, 
and, doubtless, kept from starving. Brother S. wrote 
me that " from ten to fifty a day came to them to get 
something to keep soul and body together." He 
said that a the people came to them for food as the 
Egyptians did to Joseph." Many Indians from the 
far north came to Sandy Lake — some unable to reach 
there without help. The sights which daily met the 
eyes of the missionaries were deeply affecting. What 



* The game called haggattaway ; that which was so artfully played at 
Mackinaw when the British were massacred. 

21 



248 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

a record would it make if the sufferings of this poor 
neglected race were only told ! As an evidence of 
their distress, some of those farther in the interior 
were driven to cannibalism, in its most shocking 
forms, to satisfy the cravings of nature. 

Rev. J. P. Bardwell, Agent of the A. M. A., writ- 
ing from Oberlin, Ohio, November 6, 1852, to the 
Commissioner of Indian Affairs, Washington, D. C, 
mentions a most startling fact as having occurred 
west of Cass Lake, the winter to which we refer. 
See Annual Report of the Commissioner of Indian 
Affairs, 1852, p. 51. He says: "An Indian, with his 
wife, two daughters, and a son-in-law, killed and ate 
fifteen persons, and most of them were their own 
children and grandchildren. Many of the principal 
men among them begin to realize that they must 
change their habits or perish, and are disposed to 
do what they can to improve their condition." 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 249 



CHAPTER XVII. 

RETURN VOYAGE, AND THE MISSIONS EN ROUTE. 

June 3d, Monday, parted with the missionaries 
and Indians at Sandy Lake, and were retracing our 
steps across the portage. It had rained Sabbath 
evening, and we found the bushes along the trail very 
wet. But after a wet and tiresome walk, we were 
over the portage, where we had concealed our canoe 
among the bushes, and by one o'clock, P. M., were 
ready to get aboard. We glided, or rather paddled, 
down the river and entered the St. Louis long before 
night, and -camped several miles below. 

Tuesday we were up by half-past three o'clock, and 
started. By adding our strength to the force of the 
swift current, we made great speed. We breakfasted 
near La Rivier Acluta, so named from a Frenchman 
of this name, who, it is said, once broke his canoe 
here. This is a considerable stream, and for some 
distance before it enters the St. Louis dashes and 
foams madly among the rocks, over extended rapids. 
Soon after breakfast it became very foggy, com- 
menced to rain hard and continued till in the after- 
noon. The men were drenched, and our things, ex- 
cept such as I could shelter with my India rubber 
cloak. But the rain did not stop us. We reached 



250 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

the Grand Portage, where we dined, and then ad- 
dressed ourselves to the arduous task of packing the 
rest of the way. Instead of having a canoe or boat, 
at the end of the portage, as we usually did, we were 
forced to clamber over a succession of high hills, 
some of them so steep and muddy withal, that, but 
for the aid of shrubs and bushes, we could hardly 
have ascended or descended them. But, rain, and 
mud, and hills in the opposition, by four o'clock, 
P. M., we were at Fond du Lac. 

At the previous annual conference the Mission 
Committee determined that, unless "the signs of the 
times" were decidedly more encouraging at Fond du 
Lac, we must pull up stakes there, with a view to 
extending the work to Mille Lac. The Indians, from 
that point, were calling loudly on us for help. A 
good report was brought from that band, showing 
their anxious desire to be Christianized. This place 
is distant about one hundred miles from Sandy Lake, 
and must be reached thence by a chain of lakes. In 
view of this opening, and the favorable indications at 
Sandy Lake, we thought best to have brother Holt 
remove to Sandy Lake, to be associated with brother 
Spates, and, in connection with the work there, if 
possible, to visit and explore the ground at Mille Lac. 
The necessary arrangements were now made, and 
brother Holt and family were to leave soon. 

Wednesday, 5th, afternoon, parted with our friends 
at F. Although the river, to the Entry, is very 
rapid, most of the way, a stiff wind blowing from the 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 251 

east caused a heavy sea to set back into the river, 
and we had to pull hard to get down stream. We 
found a fine place to camp near the Entry, sheltered 
by trees and elevated ground — from the wind — a 
large log to build our fire against, and so situated 
as not to smoke us in the tent. Were quite comfort- 
able on that lone and desolate shore. The following 
night a drenching rain poured upon us, but we kept 
most of our things dry by means of our tent. 

Thursday, 6th, we were wind-bound, and no tell- 
ing for how long a time. Hard wind blowing from 
the eastward, having the rake of the whole Lake. It 
may be imagined how the mighty waves spent their 
fury against our shore. 

REFLECTIONS PENNED ON THIS WIND-BOUND COAST. 

" The rain has ceased and the weather is clearing 
up. The air is cool, but we are not troubled with flies 
and musketoes, and with a good fire we can be very 
comfortable. I have read several chapters in my 
Bible this morning, and have read through Hedding 
on the Discipline. Find enough to do when camped, 
to fill up, profitably, all my time in reading, writing, 
etc.; so that I am enabled, at such seasons, to advance 
in knowledge, and, I trust, in grace, and a preparation 
for usefulness in public. I often enjoy such seasons 
of seclusion from the world, in which I can commune 
with God and my own soul. 

"I was thinking this morning that a person wind- 
bound on a desolate coast resembles a person bound 



252 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

for heaven, while navigating the dangerous sea of life. 
How often does he meet with opposing winds, when 
he can do nothing but 'stand still and see the salva- 
tion of God.' In the midst of a vile world, which is 
no friend to grace, he often finds himself standing 
almost alone and forsaken, with wind and tide against 
him. But his trust is in God. Like the skillful voy- 
ager, he holds himself ready to make the best of every 
hinderance. He keeps every inch of ground he has 
gained. In the calm, or when wind and waves are 
not too strong, he plies his oars, and when the breeze 
is fair spreads his sails, rides over the proudest bil- 
lows, and bids the world adieu. When we are resting 
in camp we are acquiring strength for more arduous 
labor. And often when the child of God seems, to 
himself, to be accomplishing little or nothing for the 
world, he is, in reality, doing the most important 
work. The trial of faith is as necessary as any thing 
else to the Christian. While thus situated I often 
think of my dear companion and the little ones God 
has given us. But they give me no uneasy concern. 
I confidently leave them in the hands of God, believ- 
ing that he will do that which is best, both for them 
and me. Here then is my rock, my strength." 

By six o'clock, the same evening, we were enabled 
to proceed on our journey, and by twelve o'clock at 
night had reached the River Brule. Had sailing most 
of the way, but clouds were dark and threatening — 
thundered to the north and sprinkled, but the storm 
went round us. Here we found three tents. One, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 253 

the Indian Agent, on his way to the Mississippi, to 
aid the Governor of Minnesota territory in locating 
the new agency. One tent was Dr. Norwood's, of 
whom mention has before been made. The other 
tent belonged to Rev. Messrs. Hall and Wheeler, of 
the American Board. They were on an exploring 
tour, to look up a site for a new mission, in view of 
the anticipated removal of the Lake Superior Indians. 

Friday morning my veteran voyageur, Souvra, called 
us up about three o'clock. In a few minutes we 
parted with our friends, and were on our way for La 
Pointe. A very hot day. Wind followed us most 
of the day, and bore us along, so that we rowed but 
little. We arrived at the mission at La Pointe just 
before dark, having coasted sixty-nine miles. We did 
not anticipate reaching here before the next day 
noon. When I got out of the boat I staggered like 
a drunken man, and was quite dizzy, having been 
confined to our small craft from the time we break- 
fasted. I then noted, " In being so remarkably blessed 
I can but own the good hand of my heavenly Father, 
who has made this to me, thus far, one of the most 
prosperous coasting trips I have ever experienced." 

Spent the Sabbath here, and was permitted to 
preach twice to Rev. Mr. Hall's congregation. 

Two Indians had just brought Mr. Oaks from the 
Ontonagon in a bark canoe. Through Mr. Oaks I 
engaged a passage with them when they should 
return. They were to leave early the following 
Monday morning; but, when the time came, they 



254 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

baffled and disappointed me, and it was quite late 
before I could stir them out of their lodges. At 
length they came with the canoe to the mission dock. 
I saw that we were to be burdened with company in 
no way desirable. An old dirty woman was in the 
bow of our canoe. Another small canoe was in 
company, with an Indian, his wife and child. This 
woman was a daughter of the elderly woman. It 
was useless to remonstrate. I had paid Mr. 0. for 
my passage, and he had settled with the Indians. I 
was a mere passenger — had been detained too long 
already — it was "neck or naught." So I took my 
place in the center of the canoe, determined to make 
the best of it. These Indians were related to my 
men, and were bound for Iron river. The sun was 
scorching hot. It was two o'clock when we arrived 
at Bad rive'r, where we took a cold lunch. Here we 
found that our company had no sign of any thing 
in the provision line. Along this fine sand beach 
our young man towed the canoe. When it came to 
rowing he seemed so intolerably lazy that he could 
scarcely move. Meanwhile our hero of the other 
canoe was trying his luck at fishing for trout. He 
caught three. We took supper at the Montreal river. 
The Lake was calm — scarcely a ripple on the sur- 
face. We traveled all night, and made pretty good 
headway. I tried to sleep part of the night, but my 
position was so uncomfortable that I could only doze 
a little. 

Tuesday, 11th, early in the morning, we passed 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 255 

Black river. About daybreak wind sprung up in 
our favor. We breakfasted at Presque Isle, gummed 
our canoe, and were just ready to start, when a canoe 
with Indians came ashore. They had been to On- 
tonagon, and were returning to Bad river, freighted, 
as we soon found out, with whisky. I did not per- 
ceive this till I saw the company into which I had 
fallen drinking. They concealed the bottles under 
their blankets. All I could do, without using vio- 
lence, was to remonstrate with them. This had the 
good effect, at least, to keep my two men from drink- 
ing much ; and even the man in the other canoe made 
out to steer his canoe when not attached to ours. 
Part of the day we had pretty good sailing, and, as 
his canoe was small and he had no sail, he must be 
kept along by being lashed to ours. But they kept 
the old woman in the bow of our canoe drunk all day. 
At times she waxed eloquent, and talked to her chil- 
dren ; then she would sing according to heathen cus- 
tom. Every little while she must have something 
more to drink. I pleaded with them not to give it to 
her; but her son said, " Kit-e-mah-ge-ze" — " Poor — a 
poor old woman." I told him that would make her 
poorer still. To this he replied, " Mah-no ;" that is, 
never mind. Then his wife, who sat in reach of her, in 
the bow of the other canoe, and had the bottle in her 
keeping, would pour out some in a tin-pan — sometimes 
in a small wooden bowl — and hand it to her. Lest 
she should not get every drop, she would turn it up 
the second time. Then she would say, " Me sah ewe, 



256 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

me sah ewe, me sah ewe" — "That is enough, that is 
enough, that is enough." Poor drunken heathen, 
she did not realize but that every want was supplied. 
At one time she sung a kind of song over and over 
in the following strain. I can not give a literal 
translation; it was simply an expression of her joyful 
emotions under the inspiration of the fire-water. 

a Me-sah neen-ga-to-yaun, 
Me-sah neen mah-mo-yaun." 

I felt much concerned lest all the Indians in the 
company should get drunk, and then, if we should 
even escape danger on the Lake, I would be at their 
mercy on the land. I had no fear of their injuring 
me personally ; but they might prevent me from going 
on. As we rounded the Porcupine Mountains, and 
were making for Iron river, our Indian of the other 
canoe became very merry and remarkably garrulous. 
He kept up an incessant talking, and singing, and 
drumming on an empty tin-pan. 

At one o'clock, P. M., we landed at Iron river. 
But I was far from feeling easy. I knew there was 
whisky here. Here was the home of my men and 
their friends. They had been out all the previous 
night, and would gladly have remained here during 
the night. But I would not hear to it for a moment. 
I insisted that we should be off immediately. They 
promised me to go soon. It was two hours before I 
could get them started. Had we gone immediately, 
we might have sailed with a good wind to Ontonagon ; 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 257 

but the wind had died down, and now we must row 
and tow. But we were now rid of our troublesome 
company, and, what was better, we had no whisky 
aboard. Went a few miles and camped. I have, 
probably, never suffered in my feelings more in any 
one day of my life, than during this most trying time. 
Let me be any where else than out at sea, in a frail 
bark canoe, with drunken Indians. This danger will 
be more apparent a little farther on. We are not 
done yet with the results of this whisky drinking. 

We arrived at Ontonagon early the next morning. 
Called at Mr. Beezer's, and what was my surprise 
to learn that the wife of Mr. C. C. Douglas was a 
corpse in the house! She was taken sick several 
miles back in the woods — was brought on a bier to 
the mouth of the river by hand. But no help could 
be obtained; the summons was imperative, and she 
must go. She left her husband and an infant to feel 
the deep pangs of human sorrow. I found Mr. L. 
Hanna's family here, and spent part of the time with 
them. But for them the place would not have seemed 
like home. Preached at night, on the subject of the 
cross of Christ, to a pretty good assembly. The 
people listened attentively. 

On account of the crowd of visiting friends at Mr. 
H.'s I was obliged to find lodging at a public house. 
But such a night ! Several rough fellows were drink- 
ing, swearing, dancing, and singing, all in perfect 
tumult. My bedroom was in close proximity to all 
this disorder and wickedness. In the house adjoining 



258 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

was the deceased wife of Mr. D. What evidences 
here of the most confirmed depravity! And what 
but the intoxicating agent could render men so lost 
to every sense of shame, not to say principle and 
feeling of virtue! 

Thursday, 13th, I was waiting the arrival of a boat 
to go to Eagle river. Spent most of my leisure in 
writing. 

THE FATAL CUP. 

The same morning a small boat and two Indians 
arrived from La Pointe. They were out on the Lake 
the same day on which we came in contact with the 
Indians having whisky. They also fell in with them, 
and, as might be expected, were induced to drink. 
One of their number, whose name was Green, became 
so intoxicated that his companions could not keep 
him still in the boat. He upset the boat and was 
drowned. They were about half a mile from shore, 
near Black river. The two surviving men got on 
the boat and floated ashore with it bottom upward. 
As we afterward learned, young Green had affection- 
ate parents and friends at La Pointe, whose hearts 
must have been wrung with anguish by this painful 
intelligence. Some one at Ontonagon let those In- 
dians have this liquor, and took their money. A 
judgment day will tell the whole story. 

About nine o'clock at night the Napoleon came 
in, and in two hours and a half I left the Ontona- 
gon for Eagle river. The next day, Friday, arrived 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 259 

before breakfast. Walked to the Cliff afterward, and 
found brother Day quite unwell, scarcely able to walk 
about. Things about the Mine appeared to be in 
rather a confused state. Several persons had left, 
and some were about leaving. Spent most of the 
afternoon at the North American. Accompanied Mr. 
Kelsey to witness the removal of the remains of his 
recently-deceased wife. They were now exhumed 
and sent below on the Independence. 

Saturday made a few visits — spent the day at the 
Cliff, and preached in the evening. Sabbath preached 
and administered the sacrament in the new chapel 
built by the Company. Had a class meeting in the 
afternoon, and a missionary meeting at night. The 
meetings were well attended, and we trust profitable. 
Though things here looked unpromising, there was 
the germ of something good to come. Some of our 
best members had left. 

On Saturday two men arrived from Kewawenon. 
This was providential for me. I prevailed on them 
to wait and accompany me, as they had a boat at 
the head of Torch Lake. Monday morning we left, 
and walked sixteen miles to Torch Lake. The sun 
shone very hot, and the musketoes were very annoy- 
ing. We had reached the Lake by half-past one 
o'clock, P. M., much fatigued. The boat had lain 
on the dry sand beach, and leaked badly when put 
into the water. It kept me bailing considerable of 
the time. About sundown we reached the mouth 
of Portage river; stopped at Mr. Sheldon's long 



260 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

enough to eat a bowl of bread and milk — a great 
treat, and the most I had eaten for the day. Again 
we were in the boat making our way for the Meth- 
odist mission. It was two o'clock at night before 
we arrived. Found all as well as could be expected, 
but the deeply-devoted and amiable sister Barnum 
was still wasting away with lingering consumption. 
Brother Crane had buried his youthful companion 
soon after his arrival at the mission. Our mission- 
aries were called to drain the cup of sorrow, but a 
good work had been going on in the Church, and 
thus was their cup again filled with gladness. 

Wednesday, 19th, we met at 11 o'clock, A. M., in 
our new church, which had recently been completed. 
The brethren had delayed occupying it till my arrival. 
We now had the pleasure of dedicating it to the 
worship of the living God. It was a refreshing time 
to our souls. Our new house was neat, commodious, 
for the place, and an honor to our mission. It was 
worth about $550. 

At three o'clock, P. M., we met the Indians to 
consult about their temporal matters. The principal 
topic was in relation to turning over to them the 
lands bought by the Missionary Society. This I was 
authorized to do if it should be thought best. But 
there were circumstances that served to render it 
unadvisable to do so at this time. I advised them 
to let the Missionary Society still retain the title, 
as the safest course for them for the present — told 
them that it would make no difference as to their 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 261 

occupying or using them. To this they all readily 
agreed. John Southwind said: 

" I am getting old and may die suddenly, and my 
son is young, and it may be, that, if my land was in 
my own hands, it might be lost. I am thankful for 
what the Missionary Society has done for us in 
purchasing the land." 

After several had spoken briefly, David King, the 
chief, said, in substance : 

"I wish to say a few words. I have very little 
mind, and know but little. The Indians are just like 
little children; they know but little till they are in- 
structed. I may be told what is for my good, and 
may see differently. It may be after the Indians are 
well trained they will understand better. If the In- 
dians only knew what you have done for them, they 
would be very thankful. The missionaries came 
among us when we were heathens, and have been 
teaching us how to live. And now we are just be- 
ginning to live. But the Indians are very poor. To 
give you an example — if a little child cries and is 
hungry, we give it something to eat. Now, the good 
people, the Missionary Society, have bought us some 
land, which they allow us to keep and replace the 
money when we get able. We have not the money 
to do this now, but we hope the time will come when 
we can replace it all. I am very thankful for what 
has been done for us." 

Not a word of fault or complaint was uttered about 
the missionaries, or any thing else, save a little mis- 



262 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

understanding between them and two persons who 
had married into the band, and wanted to secure 
claims among them. 

At seven o'clock, P. M., we met again for religious 
worship. The people were out as if it had been the 
Sabbath. I preached to them with much freedom. 
The whole congregation praised God aloud in singing, 
and yet there did not seem to be a discordant note. 
Several were deeply affected during the meeting. 

Thursday morning we had love-feast and the sacra- 
ment of the Lord's supper. It was a most melting 
and precious time. We closed by singing a parting 
hymn, when the people all passed before the altar, 
and shook hands with the missionaries, and with each 
other. Seldom have I witnessed a more affecting 
scene. 

Afternoon parted with the brethren and friends at 
K., never expecting to see them all again in this 
world. Accompanied by brother R. C. Crane and 
William Bass, crossed over to the mouth of the Port- 
age river. We were kindly entertained by the family 
of Mr. Sheldon. The musketoes were almost insuf- 
ferable. Friday we reached the head of Torch Lake 
about noon, and, after a fatiguing walk over the trail, 
and a well-fought battle with our mortal insect ene- 
mies, we were at the Cliff Mine, at six o'clock, P. M. 
Saturday went to the Lake and dined with Mr. 
Write's family. Afternoon, via Eagle Harbor, walked 
to the North- West Mine, distant from the Cliff seven- 
teen miles. Found here my old friend D. D. Brock- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 263 

way and family, from Copper Harbor. Mr. B. was 
now Agent of the Mine. Here spent the Sabbath, 
and preached twice to a very respectable congrega- 
tion. In the evening returned to Eagle Harbor, about 
five miles, and stopped for the night at Mr. Boden's. 
Before we were up, Monday morning, the Napoleon 
came into the Harbor, on her way to the Saut. I 
was thankful to get aboard, with my face once more 
turned toward home. On our way down we touched 
at Carp river — now Marquette — ran into Grand Isl- 
and Harbor to wood, and on Wednesday, the 26th 
June, before twelve o'clock, was permitted, through 
much mercy, to meet my family and find all well. 



22 



264 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

BRIEF STATEMENT OF THE CONDITION OF THE 

MISSIONS IN THE D IS TRI C T — RE MIN IS - 

CENCES PLEASING AND SAD. 

The Indian Mission district enjoyed a year of 
prosperity after deducting all our losses from vari- 
ous causes beyond the control of the missionaries. 
At the extreme posts of Fond du Lac and Sandy 
Lake, we had never been able to count much on mem- 
bers. Fond du Lac returned six Indian members, 
four less than at the previous conference. Sandy 
Lake numbered, the year before, sixteen, now re- 
turned but five — nine out of the sixteen were on trial. 
To any one acquainted with those stations and the 
adverse influences which had been at work, these 
fluctuations will not appear surprising. 

At Kewawenon a good revival had been in prog- 
ress during the winter. Fifteen, as a result, were 
added to the society; but by deaths, removals, and 
the necessary exercise of Discipline, the number re- 
turned to conference was fifty-six, the same as the 
year before. 

It was intended that the brethren at Kewawenon 
should visit the miners in the vicinity of Ontonagon, 
and also at Carp river. In the extreme ill health of 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 265 

sister Barnum, this part of the work, for the winter 
months, was committed to brother Crane. He trav- 
eled on foot during the winter nearly seven hundred 
miles; visited the Ontonagon twice, and spent some 
time at the various locations; went once to the Cliff 
Mine and twice to Carp river. At his first visit to 
this last place, things looked very dark and unpromis- 
ing. He received three persons into society on trial, 
as a result of his efforts. The next time a most gra- 
cious work broke out, resulting in the happy conver- 
sion of about twenty-five or more, and the formation 
of a flourishing class. At the time brother C. wrote 
me a detailed account of his efforts and the success 
attending them. I give here an extract or two as 
evincing the character of this work, and also the 
deep sorrows of the missionary, to which allusion 
has been made before: 

" what a work the Lord has wrought here ! This 
wilderness, brother, doth bloom. Our class now num- 
bers twenty-three, and the most of them are bold to 
tell what a dear Savior they have found. 0, they are 
happy in God's pardoning love; and others are seek- 
ing the Savior ! Very different the atmosphere now 
to what it was four weeks ago. Difficulties have been 
settled that could not have been otherwise. 

"You see, brother, from what I have written, that 
the Lord is with us. And, indeed, if he were not my 
stay and staff, 0, how could I endure the deep, deep, 
heart-rending afflictions through which I have been 
called to pass, in being bereft of my dear wife, who 



266 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

was permitted to stay with me so short a time! 
my brother, my feelings are indescribable ! I could 
not tell them were I to attempt. But you appreciate 
them in a measure, and I have your prayers and 
sympathy. My dear Minerva was with me only three 
weeks after we reached L'Anse; then the Savior 
called her. She bade me farewell, and the angels 
quickly flew with her thrice happy spirit to a happier 
and more congenial clime. I think I can see in the 
removal of my wife the workings of my heavenly 
Father's hand. Perhaps it was the only means of 
the salvation of many souls at L'Anse, and, for aught 
I know, at this place too. My Lord is a God of 
providence, and I have always endeavored to trust 
him as such." 

For the reader to appreciate those labors and suf- 
ferings, he must follow the missionary through a 
wintery wilderness, and for five or six successive 
nights camp down with him in his lone and com- 
fortless resting-place. In years yet to come those 
primitive toils to plant the Gospel on that wild and 
desolate shore will be duly appreciated. The time 
draweth nigh. 

At Eagle river but twelve members were returned — 
two less than the previous year, owing to removals. 
The mining population was very floating. 

At the Saut Ste. Marie mission, with all the disad- 
vantages arising from the removal of the Indians to 
Naomikong, and other causes, the number returned was 
fifty-six, an increase of four members. The Minutes 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 267 

show for the district a decrease in the Indian mem- 
bership of eleven, and an increase in the white mem- 
bership of twenty-six. 

The district contributed, during the year, $148.85 
for the missionary cause — an average of more than 
ninety-one cents per member, counting the Indians. 
But it must be remembered that they were not called 
on for any of this. Divided among forty-eight pay- 
ing members, it averages $3.10 each. Besides the 
district raised $31.80 for Sunday schools, It num- 
bered 5 Sunday schools, 141 scholars, 490 volumes 
in library, 2 Bible classes — took 12 Sunday School 
Advocates. These facts go to show a healthy state 
of our societies, and that the missionaries endeav- 
ored to care for all the interests of religion and 
Methodism. 

"Be not forgetful to entertain strangers, for thereby 
some have entertained angels unawares." While liv- 
ing on this great thoroughfare we often realized what 
it meant to comply with the apostle's precept, whether 
we were always so favored as to find our guests angels 
or not. In one instance we had a striking illustra- 
tion of the text at the head of this. Brother John 
Peterson, of Ninth and Arch streets, Philadelphia, 
on his way to visit Lake Superior, had arrived at 
the Saut, and put up at a public house. He had 
invited a special friend, an experienced Methodist 
minister of the same city, Rev. A. Atwood, to accom- 
pany him at his expense. Mr. Atwood had left home 
in poor health, and crossing the lakes had aggravated 



268 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

his complaint, which he feared, if not soon checked, 
would terminate in cholera. We opened our house, 
and took him in, and would gladly have kept brother 
Peterson also, but he refused our invitation. He left 
brother Atwood in our care, and proceeded to Lake 
Superior. We did the best we could with such accom- 
modations as our little domicile could furnish — homely 
at best. Brother Atwood could hardly find terms 
sufficiently expressive of his gratitude; thought he 
should have died had he been left at the tavern. The 
simple means used were blessed, and he began grad- 
ually to improve. After an absence of about a week 
brother Peterson returned, and was much rejoiced at 
the evident improvement of his friend and companion. 
Before taking leave of the Saut he sent us ten dollars 
by the hand of brother Atwood. After this he came 
and took tea with us. While seated in the parlor he 
took out some loose bills from his pocket, and re- 
marked, " I think I have a little more loose change 
than I shall need for traveling expenses/' and passed 
them over to me, requesting me to accept them. On 
opening them I found them to amount to twenty-five 
dollars. Such generosity was embarrassing; but it 
was shown with such earnest good will as seemed to 
say that it must be so. He stepped into the dining- 
room, and, on bidding my wife farewell, left a five 
dollar gold piece in her hand. He had previously 
presented me with a very handsome pocket map of 
the United States. He gave Carrie a gold dollar 
and little Henry a half dollar. So far as our expe- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 269 

rience is concerned, this instance of generosity is 
unique. Our liberal donor afforded us help in a time 
of need. If it be more blessed to give than to 
receive, he received the greater blessing. Our most 
fervent prayer was that God would abundantly reward 
the cheerful giver. Should this incident come under 
the notice of those to whom it relates, they will please 
pardon the liberty I have taken with their names. 

August 16th found me on board the steamer Lon- 
don, en route to attend the annual conference. We 
had a rough time in crossing Lake Huron. We lay 
at anchor most of the day, Sunday, under an island 
in the vicinity of Thunder Bay. The Sabbath passed 
away quietly. I preached once to those aboard, and 
Rev. Peter Jacobs, the Indian preacher, who had 
spent the last thirteen years at Hudson's Bay, and 
was just returning to Canada, closed the services 
with a very interesting account of his conversion, 
life, and labors. 

We arrived at Detroit on Monday, about nine 
o'clock at night. Tuesday we spent in attending to 
business in the city. The same evening we took 
boat for Sandusky City, Ohio; thence by railroad 
went to Tiffin City, and thence to visit an aged 
mother in Crawford county, now pressed down with 
a weight of infirmities. Here I preached several 
times, and met with many old friends and acquaint- 
ances. I preached once in the elegant new church 
in Tiffin City, which had supplanted the old brick, 
in which some of my most notable boyhood hours 



270 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

had been spent. Every thing here had changed. 
Twenty-one years had passed and gone since mother, 
with her six children, had been ferried across the 
Sandusky river in a log canoe, to take up their resi- 
dence in Tiffin, after the recent death of a dear 
father, which had occurred in Licking county. Then 
Tiffin was a small county town, much of it situated 
among the stumps and logs, and much of the surround- 
ing country a dense wilderness ; now a city — a teeming 
population, and all the evidences of thrift and prog- 
ress. But many of the old familiar faces were not to 
be seen. A brother H., under whose roof I had spent 
more than five years, was of that number. Death 
had aimed at them his unerring darts, and they had 
fallen. I should exceed the limit within which these 
stray leaves should fall, if I were to pen here the 
vivid boyhood scenes that rushed before me, and were 
uneffaceably daguerreotyped upon my mind. Thus 
much by the way. 

From Tiffin I proceeded to Adrian, Michigan, and 
spent a Sabbath with old friends there; thence re- 
paired to Albion, the seat of the conference, which 
commenced the next Wednesday, September 5th, and 
closed on the 10th. The session was one of much 
interest to me, as such seasons have almost invari- 
ably been. 

From the seat of the conference we went to De- 
troit, where we procured our winter supplies for the 
missions, and were again accompanied by several of 
the missionaries on our way to the Saut. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 271 

September 20th landed on M'Knight's wharf, at 
the Saut, and was instantly hailed by Carrie, whose 
first expression was that her little brother was very 
sick. This was to me the first announcement, and 
found its way like an arrow to my heart. I was 
soon by his couch — but what a change! The evi- 
dences were too apparent to be mistaken — death was 
doing his mysterious work. About the time of my 
arrival he became unconscious ; he did not know me. 
Four days and nights of nearly sleepless anxiety 
had passed, and some heavenly messenger came and 
kissed away his infant breath, and on golden pinions 
bore his unsinning spirit up to the bosom of its God. 
Could it be that our sweet Henry had been snatched 
so suddenly away? We could hardly realize it, and 
yet we knew it was a stern reality. We had lost 
friends before — the dearest friends — but no more 
tender cords had ever been entwined about our hearts 
than those which bound us to this dear boy. Carrie's 
heart was nearly broken, and her eyes were turned 
into channels of grief and sorrow. But while the 
stroke fell so heavily upon us, we could but realize 
that the chastening rod was in a Father's hand. Our 
soul submissively responded, "The Lord gave, and 
the Lord hath taken away, and blessed be the name 
of the Lord." 

During those trying hours we had with us brother 

and sister Barnum and brother Stacey, bound for 

Kewawenon ; and brother and sister Benson, on their 

way to the Eagle River mission. Brother Barnum 

23 



272 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

preached the funeral, and wrote a note addressed to 
Dr. Durbin, which was published in the Missionary 
Advocate. The following is an extract, with the 
editor's — Dr. Durbin's, I suppose — note of kind sym- 
pathy with us in our affliction : 

ai Ye know not what shall he on the morrow? — 
Brother Pitezel very unexpectedly found his little 
son, an interesting child, a little less than two years 
old, sick. Disease, congestion of the brain. All 
efforts of physicians, and fond parents, and kind 
friends proved unavailing ; and on the 24th, at half- 
past eight o'clock, P. M., he left us, and took his 
exit to the world of spirits. The parents feel their 
affliction deeply, as little Henry Eugene was an only 
son; but they have grace in their affliction to say, 
< The Lord gave, and the Lord hath taken away, and 
blessed be the name of the Lord.'* 

"Brother Steele and family have just arrived. 
"Yours, in the Gospel, 

"Nelson Barnum. 

* " We are afflicted with our dear brother Pitezel, having trav- 
eled the same road four different times. Next to the precious 
word of God, we commend to him and his bereaved companion 
the perusal of the 637th and 639th hymns in our New Collection. — 
Editor." 

Brother Salmon Steele, who had just arrived with 
his family, had been passing through the furnace of 
affliction. Death had made a sure aim at one of his 
own dear friends. Himself and several of his family 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 273 

looked like walking shadows when they landed. They 
had come to take charge of the station at Naomi- 
kong, and were with us about a week before going 
to their new home. In the midst of our afflictions 
so many active duties constantly pressed upon us, 
that we had little time to indulge in gloomy appre- 
hensions, had we even been tempted to do so. I 
made this note on the 1st of November : 

"For two months I have made no record in my 
journal. They have been eventful months, but filled 
with active duties. To-day I preached the funeral 
of a little boy — Mr. Godfrey's — that died with scrof- 
ula. Thus are our blooming prospects of life cut 
off by death." 



274 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER XIX. 

SAUT DE STE. MARIE MISSION-PASSING 
EVENTS. 

After the missionaries had left us for their ap- 
propriate fields we found, as usual, much to do pre- 
paratory to the approaching winter. 

Besides the necessary business and care connected 
with a general oversight of the missions in the dis- 
trict, the mission farm at Little Rapids required no 
small attention. Up to this time one of the mission 
families lived there. The place was now leased, and 
thus lessened very much our care and perplexity. 

On the 22d of November I went to Naomikong 
to hold our first quarterly meeting. The ground was 
covered with snow. It was cold and wintery, but we 
were favored with a good wind to sail, and arrived 
before night. Found brother Steele on the school- 
house, in true mason-like style, topping out the chim- 
ney. He and his family had recovered their health, 
and were in "labors more abundant." We had a good 
quarterly meeting, but nothing extraordinary. I was 
chained here till Thursday afternoon following, by 
contrary wind. The snow was several inches deep, 
and I concluded that I should have to walk home — 
a hard undertaking at that season. I took leave of 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 275 

the mission and walked to the mill, some eight miles, 
by the coast. Part of the way I walked in snow 
water, by which means I took a severe cold, and it 
laid the foundation of a pretty serious illness soon 
afterward. At the saw-mill we remained all night. 
Friday morning the wind sprung up in our favor. 
Our boat was sent to us from Naomikong, as I had 
ordered if the wind should become favorable, and 
before night we had reached home. 

IMPROVEMENTS. 

At Naomikong we had purchased rising of sixty 
acres of land for the mission. The Indians had 
bought all around us, and were building considerably. 
We had built since conference a comfortable school- 
house, and made an addition to the mission-house. 
Had also fitted up a comfortable dwelling for the 
interpreter. The school was opened on the 27th 
of November, numbering twenty-four Indian children, 
most of whom could read in the Testament; nine 
were writing, five studying arithmetic, and two geog- 
raphy. 

"Religious Prospects. — "Brother Steele says, 'Our 
religious prospects are of decided improvement.' 
Meetings of all kinds well attended, and interesting. 
Brother Marksman says, in a letter received the same 
time, 'the Lord is now troubling the careless and 
hard-hearted sinners here. Last evening after the 
exhortation of brother Isaac, brother Steele told me 
that I might speak also, and immediately I lifted my 



276 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

cries to God in prayer: '0 Lord, thou hast permitted 
thy poor servant to see sinners converted to thee in 
former times! let us see sinners coming to thee 
this evening!' In the name of God I got up and 
exhorted sinners to come to Jesus and be saved. 
Four persons came forward to the mourner's bench. 
We labored till nearly ten o'clock — had a most ex- 
cellent meeting. They all prayed till the tears rolled 
down their cheeks; every soul in the house was in 
prayer. One of brother Steele's boys prayed with 
all his might." (Missionary Report.) 

The state of religion was very encouraging most 
of the winter. Early in March I visited Naomikong 
again. It was then fine going on the ice. Went in 
a two-horse sled, accompanied by my wife and daugh- 
ter. This jaunt was pleasantly executed, as it took 
us only one day each way, and is the more worthy 
of note as it was very seldom that we could travel 
so comfortably. We had a good meeting with the 
missionaries and the Indians that were at home — sev- 
eral were off hunting. The conveniences for boarding 
native children were limited at our new station. Still 
four or five children were supported under the mission 
roof. One of the greatest disadvantages here was 
the isolated position of our missionaries, and the 
difficulty of transporting supplies from the Saut 
mostly in small boats. It required no small degree 
of self-sacrifice to live in so secluded a spot, shut out 
from the world mostly, and deprived of the endear- 
ments of such society as the missionaries had been 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 277 

wont to gather around them. Still this was a more 
desirable residence than several of the remoter sta- 
tions. 

Soon after the visit to Naomikong mentioned above, 
my health was, for a time, much impaired by that 
most painful and debilitating disease — piles. At no 
time during my connection with the missions was I 
so completely prostrated. But I soon obtained relief, 
and gradually recovered my strength through the 
good providence of God. 

During this winter I added to my other duties the 
charge of a school. I did this in compliance with 
an urgent request of some of the leading citizens, 
who had failed to secure the services of a teacher 
from beiow before the close of navigation prevented 
them. 

We still continued preaching at the village, with 
variable signs of prosperity. During most of the 
winter and spring we had excellent congregations, 
and often deep and serious attention to the word 
preached. "We were visited by brother Steele occa- 
sionally, who preached several very excellent sermons 
to the people. Our sacramental seasons were gen- 
erally seasons of heart-felt interest. The hearts of 
the few, representatives of several different Churches, 
were blended as the members of a common family. 
But there were times when the general neglect of 
divine things led me almost to adopt the words of 
the sorrowing Psalmist: "Woe is me that I sojourn 
in Mesech, and dwell in the tents of Kedar." 



278 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



TEMPERANCE. 

In a place like this any thing that could conduce 
to roll back the tide of intemperance, and avert its 
untold evils, was to be hailed as the harbinger of 
good. In the fall of 1849 the Sons of Temperance 
organized a Division — "Algic Chippeway Division, 
No. 107." This Division soon increased in num- 
bers, and was steadily gaining in the confidence of 
the people. Several persons, who had been far gone 
in intemperance, were by this means reclaimed. In 
the spring of 1850 I entered heartily into this re- 
form, and lectured soon after to very crowded aud- 
iences. The meetings in the hall were very orderly 
and business-like seasons, exerting a most wnolesome 
influence over several of the soldiers, who were mem- 
bers, and were thus kept away from drinking and 
gambling saloons. The public lectures were invaria- 
bly well attended, and many home-darts were there 
thrown, not at random, among the mixed multitude. 
It is with pleasure that I call to mind my association 
with this Division of the Sons of Temperance. Its 
members are now scattered; some have gone to their 
long home. There are several that I have hope of 
meeting on a better shore, which the fell destroyer, 
intemperance, will never approach. 

SICKNESS AND DEATH AMONG THE INHABITANTS. 

In the spring we had a number of very sudden 
deaths. There seemed to be something mysterious 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 279 

in the manner of several of these deaths. Persons 
would be taken sick, but not considered dangerous, 
and yet the next word would, perhaps, be that they 
were no more. These cases did not all originate in 
the same disease, evidently, though there was pre- 
vailing at the time a kind of influenza, which was, 
no doubt, the exciting cause in most cases. Myself 
and family were attacked, and I did not fully recover 
till I reached Sandy Lake the following summer. 
There was some interest attached to some of these 
occurrences, as noted in my journal, a brief mention 
of which may not be amiss. They were interwoven 
with our missionary life. The following was penned 
on the 23d of March: 

"This afternoon I preached a funeral discourse 
on occasion of the sudden death of one of the mem- 
bers of the Division of the Sons of Temperance. 
The members were all in attendance, and such a 
crowd flocked out as I have never seen in this place 
to a Protestant meeting. The house was filled, and 
the doors were crowded with persons standing, and 
a number went away that could not be accommodated. 
I was blessed with more than usual freedom in speak- 
ing from 2 Samuel xiv, 14. There was fixed atten- 
tion, and many wept under the word preached. 

"Mr. D. had lived in sin, and died, it was to be 
feared, without hope in Christ. He was taken last 
Thursday evening and died yesterday — Saturday — 
morning, about four o'clock. I knew nothing of his 
being sick till requested to attend his funeral. After 



280 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

he was taken sick his wife asked him if she should 
send for me to come and talk with him. He replied, 
that 'people would think it a whim/ She told me 
that these were the last words he uttered. How ter- 
rible for death to come and find any one thus un- 
prepared ! I endeavored faithfully to warn the people 
of the absolute necessity of a preparation for death." 

On the 20th of April another of the members 
of the Division died, a Mr. W. He had been one 
of the best mechanics that ever had been at the Saut. 
But he was enticed and led away by strong drink, 
till he brought upon himself that horrible disease 
of mania a potu. At that time he could scarcely 
have drawn a sober breath. By this destructive 
poison his constitution became shattered, and he was 
dragging out a living death. He had, some time 
before, united with the Sons, and totally abandoned 
his cups. As a result an entire change came over 
him for the better. 

I visited him daily for several days, conversed with 
him about his spiritual state, gave him a Bible and 
some tracts, read the holy Scriptures and prayed with 
him. He told me, on Thursday before his death, that 
"he was resolved, from that time onward, to serve 
God; that he had endeavored to be religious in days 
gone by, but had strayed far off; that he believed 
in the dear Redeemer, and that in him was his only 
hope and consolation." He had been baptized in 
infancy, and brought up under the influence of the 
Presbyterian Church. At his request, that evening 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 281 

I administered the sacrament of the Lord's supper 
to him, to his evident comfort. Friday he appeared 
much better — spoke of the sweet rest he had enjoyed 
the night before. Saturday he did not appear so 
well, but neither he nor myself thought his end to 
be so nigh. After reading and prayer with him I 
urged him to cast all his care on the Lord. Thus 
I left him, and before midnight his spirit had left 
the clay tenement. On Monday, 21st, I preached his 
funeral from " Then shall the dust return to the earth 
as it was, and the spirit unto God who gave it." The 
people could not all get into the body of the house. 
The Division of Sons attended in a body. Several 
were present not accustomed to listen to Protestant 
preaching. 

We had a number of similarly-crowded funerals, 
some of which occurred in the summer. But I have 
given the two above as a little out of the ordinary 
course, and they must suffice. According to an old 
proverb, "straws show which way the wind blows;'' 
these seemingly-unimportant events tend to throw 
some light on the influence at work among us. Their 
voice to the living is that of warning. 

The last day of July, about midnight, a sad cas- 
ualty occurred on Lake Superior, near White Fish 
Point. The Monticello ran into the Manhattan on 
her larboard quarter. She began to sink, and, it was 
said, in five minutes was under water to her guards 
on the upper deck. By the dexterity, self-possession, 
and heroism of Captain Wilson and several others, 



282 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

on board the Monticello, all the passengers and others 
were taken from the sinking vessel, and every life 
saved. We were told that the passengers on the 
Monticello had just been dancing, a thing of common 
occurrence on the Lake Superior boats, and, at the 
time of the collision, were partaking of an oyster 
supper. Thus are people often, in the hight of con- 
viviality, intoxicated by trifling amusements and sin- 
ful diversions; as thoughtless about their souls as 
though they had none, and indifferent about the ret- 
ributions of eternity as if such things were idle 
dreams, when " there is but a step between them and 
death." 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 283 



CHAPTER XX. 

ANNUAL TOUR AMONG THE MISSIONS. 

With all our increased facilities for travel on Lake 
Superior, by the increased number of boats, we were 
often subject to great detention. I had expected to 
leave the Saut by the 21st of May, to visit the mis- 
sions, but was detained till the 29th, when I left on 
the propeller Manhattan. I was accompanied by my 
wife and daughter as far as Eagle river, where I left 
them to visit old acquaintances and friends, and pro- 
ceeded on my journey. After various detentions at 
Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle river, and the 
Ontonagon, we landed at La Pointe early in the 
morning of June 4th, having been on the way nearly 
a week. The day was spent in making arrangements 
for the coasting voyage ahead. 

Thursday, 5th, accompanied by three voyagers, I 
left La Pointe at eight o'clock, A. M. A little before 
eight o'clock, P. M., we pitched our tent by a small 
river emptying into Siskowet Bay. 

Friday, 6th, after a comfortable night's rest, I was 
awakened between three and four o'clock by the 
sweet music of some little birds. We left our camp 
at five o'clock; Lake delightfully calm. At twelve 
o'clock we had a fine sailing breeze, which continued 



• 



284 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

to blow steadily from the north-east till we entered 
the St. Louis river. As we drew near the entrance, 
the Lake presented the most angry and terrific ap- 
pearance, owing to the meeting of opposing currents. 
The water for miles was very turbid, as if torn up 
from the bottom, and resembled the boiling of a vast 
caldron. To ride in over the foaming breakers, to all 
appearance, looked hazardous; but we succeeded in 
making the entrance, and before night had camped on 
a point to our left. While seated in the boat, and 
looking out upon the angry waters, I wrote with pencil 
the following lines, which are here inserted, not as a 
specimen of poetry — we pretend to no intimacy with 
the Muses — but simply as expressive of our feel- 
ings at the time : 

" Great Maker of the earth and sea, 
Preserver of all things that be, 
Where shall a worm, an heir of dust, 
In aught but thee repose his trust ? 
While toss'd upon the turbid wave, 
Thine arm, we know, is strong to save ; 
Keep then, ' and bring us safe to land,' 
Held ' in the hollow of thy hand.' " 

Saturday morning we had occasional showers. We 
arrived at Fond du Lac a little after noon ; stopped 
with Mr. Carlton, the Government blacksmith. We 
missed our missionaries very much, and were inclined 
to wish, in view of the shape of things, that we again 
had a missionary on the ground. 

On Sunday the people were called together at the 
mission-house for religious worship. Just as we were 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 285 

on our way a large boat from La Pointe arrived -with 
Indian provisions, and, of course, became the center 
of attraction for some time. But few were at meet- 
ing on this account. Baptized an infant of Stephen 
Bungo, a colored interpreter. It was quite rainy 
during the afternoon. In the evening I preached 
to a few Indians — S. B. interpreted. 

Monday morning, in pretty good season, we were 
en route for Sandy Lake, At half-past six o'clock, 
P. M., we were over Knife Portage, and had camped. 
Our canoe had been badly broken, and must now be 
mended. Another canoe full of Indians was in com- 
pany, some looking quite respectable, but one, a 
Sandy Lake Indian, was grease and dirt from top to 
toe — a perfect specimen of a lazy, worthless fellow. 
When my men were getting our dinner he said he 
would eat with us, and drew up near to us. But 
he received no encouragement, and so crept back 
and messed with his comrades. 

I had suffered considerably all the way from in- 
fluenza, which attacked me at the Saut — was slowly 
recovering. The river was at a good stage, neither 
too high nor too low. 

Just below our tent the water of the St. Louis falls 
about ten feet nearly perpendicular, and, for a long 
distance, dashes and foams among the rocks. Tues- 
day, 10th, we contended successfully against the long 
succession of rapids, and camped at night, some dis- 
tance above the Grand Bapids, near a place called 
by the Indians Che-ba-gah-me-goons, or little grave. 



286 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

Here a Mr. Aitken, brother to the Sub-Agent at the 
Saut, once lost a little child as he was passing over 
this route. The lone grave is pointed out by some 
cedar pickets which inclose it. 

Wednesday, at half-past ten o'clock, we were at 
the mouth of the East Savan river. In following 
the devious windings of this stream our way was 
often obstructed by trees, which had fallen across, 
and by flood wood, which must be removed. By 
eight o'clock, P. M., we were at the head of the river 
and camped for the night. 

Thursday we arrived at the Sandy Lake mission 
a little after noon. Found sister Spates in poor 
health; the rest of the missionaries were well. Found 
things about the mission in a better condition than 
I had anticipated, in view of the troubles through 
which the missionaries and Indians had passed, a 
particular account of which will be found farther on. 
Our great lack here, at this time, was a good inter- 
preter. There was no person that we could rely 
on to attend to this duty. I was, therefore, compelled, 
during this visit, to conduct our meetings among the 
Indians in my own broken style of speaking Ojibwa, 
without any interpreter. 

Friday was spent in the transaction of business. 
Saturday afternoon we had public worship. Sabbath, 
at half-past nine o'clock, we had prayer meeting. 
At the close of this I related to the Indians, as well 
as I could, something of my religious experience, 
and gave them an exhortation. I succeeded much 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 287 

better than I could have anticipated. At eleven 
o'clock the house was well filled with whites and 
Indians. We sung in Indian. Then I read appro- 
priate prayers in Ojibwa, including the Lord's prayer. 
After this, a part of the second chapter to the He- 
brews was read. I then read my text in Ojibwa, and 
offered, in broken Indian, some remarks on man's 
original purity as God made him ; how he sinned and 
brought upon himself guilt, pain, and death; how 
God loved man in his fallen state, and sent his Son 
to die on the cross, and by this means procured a 
great salvation for us; that if we embraced Christ 
and his Gospel it would make us happier every way 
in our condition here, and make us happy forever 
in heaven; but that if we rejected this Gospel we 
must perish forever. I exhorted them to cast aside 
their heathenism and embrace the truth. The Indians 
were very attentive, and I thought the most of them 
understood what I endeavored to say to them. Af- 
terward read my text in English — Hebrews ii, 3 — and 
spoke with more than common point and freedom 
to the whites present. In the afternoon commemo- 
rated the dying sorrows of our Lord. It was a deeply- 
solemn and interesting time to the small company 
who partook. At night we had a refreshing prayer 
meeting with the missionaries. We never all expected 
to meet again on earth. But we felt as if we could 
antedate a better meeting in the skies. We could 
but think, at the time, that if the Church could only 

witness the holy fervor which seemed to characterize 

24 



288 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

our missionaries in this heathen land, they would not 
despair though they should be compelled to labor 
long without apparent fruit. 

In the month of the March previous one of the 
heathen Indians had killed an ox, belonging to the 
mission, under the eyes of the missionaries, and in 
a most aggravating manner. Brother Spates was 
absent at the time. The Agent was called upon to 
interpose his authority. He came and forbade the 
Indian to take any of the meat. Brother Holt got 
the ox into the stable, closed the door, and was about 
dressing it when the Indian broke open the door with 
an ax, and was determined to have the meat. Brother 
Holt again went to call the Agent, and while gone 
the Indian cut off the head and one of the fore-quar- 
ters, and took them away. Brother H. returned and 
put the rest on a hand-train to get it into the house. 
The Indian took hold of it, and determined that the 
missionary should not have it. The missionary per- 
sisted, and took it away, to the great chagrin of the 
savage, who brandished his butcher-knife in brother 
H.'s face. The Agent had threatened to take this 
Indian into custody and have him punished for this 
outrage, but nothing had yet been done. 

Monday morning, before I left Sandy Lake, the 
Indians must have an interview with me to know 
what was to be done with the transgressor. They 
were anxious to have the matter settled on the spot. 
But I told them that this was the business of the 
Agent, and that they must wait till payment time to 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 289 

have it adjusted. Told them that I hoped the Gov- 
ernment would punish this man as his crime deserved. 
During this same season our mission lost a fine horse, 
valued at one hundred and fifty dollars. It was sus- 
pected that a half-breed from Fond du Lac had killed 
and eaten him. Thus was our best mission property 
exposed to the depredations of lawless savages, and 
even the lives of the missionaries were often in 
jeopardy. 

We left the mission before ten o'clock, A. M., and 
got pretty well down the East Savan river before 
night. My influenza had now left me, and my health 
was every way greatly improved. We camped the 
next night at Knife Portage. It rained nearly all 
night, accompanied with loud thunder. Wednesday 
we were at Fond du Lac early in the afternoon. 
Stopped here an hour or so, and were again on our 
way. As it was quite rainy we camped about four 
o'clock, P. M. Thursday we coasted about forty 
miles, and camped early at the Brule river, much 
fatigued. Three large batteaux arrived here from La 
Pointe, on their way to Fond du Lac, with Indian 
provisions, in the employ of the Fur Company — a 
merry company of men, about thirty in number. Fri- 
day we had a rough sea and a pretty hard day's toil, 
and were forced to camp in a very close and uncom- 
fortable spot, near the water's edge. Saturday we 
were chained to our camp till four o'clock, P. M. 
Rainy and uncomfortable weather; wind ahead and a 
very rough sea. We then removed our camp and 



290 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

traveled till near midnight, and camped not far from 
Raspberry river. Sunday morning my men called 
me up very early. A stiff breeze was blowing in the 
direction of La Pointe. We hoisted sail, and before 
nine o'clock were at the Fur Company's establish- 
ment; breakfasted at Mr. Oaks's, and had the privi- 
lege once more of uniting with the missionaries of 
the American Board in the worship of God. 

Monday 23c?. The morning was spent in transact- 
ing business. In the afternoon, accompanied by Rev. 
Mr. Hall and wife went to Bad river to visit the 
station there, under the supervision of Rev. L. H. 
Wheeler. The Indians had made very considerable 
improvements here in clearing land, building, etc. A 
school and religious meetings were kept, and much 
had been done, by the self-sacrificing missionaries, to 
better the condition of the natives, and with appar- 
ent evidences of success. Tuesday morning, after a 
pleasant night spent with our friends at the mission, 
returned with brother Hall to the mouth of the river, 
where my men and boat from La Pointe were waiting. 
Camped that night five or six miles west of Black 
river. 

Wednesday, 25th, about half-past two o'clock were 
aroused by swarms of musketoes and gnats. We got 
ready, started immediately, and found good sailing. 
Breakfasted at Presque Isle, and were soon on our 
way with a fresh wind from the south-west, and were 
sailing very fast. Wind had increased considerably 
by nine o'clock — sea became quite rough — wind rather 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 291 

flawy — bad to lessen sail. "We had a good Mackinaw 
boat, a fine sailer, or we should have been in a bad 
fix. We seemed to pass the land like a streak. As 
we rounded the points of the Porcupine Mountains, 
we had a very rough sea. We paid little attention to 
the deep bays on our route; generally made a straight 
wake across them. By noon we were opposite Iron 
river. Here we laid our course direct for the Onton- 
agon. By two o'clock, P. M., we were there, having 
sailed about fifty miles from the time we left camp. 
Such sailing, in open boat, is of rare occurrence. I 
had never before sailed so far in the same time ; 
twice had nearly equaled it in a bark canoe, sailing 
faster, perhaps, but not so far at a time. Here I ex- 
pected to have met with my family, but they had 
waited for the next boat. Every house and hovel in 
the place was crowded, and scarcely any thing like 
appropriate or comfortable accommodations could be 
found. Every boat that arrived was crowded with 
passengers. Houses could not be built to supply the 
demand for want of lumber. 

Friday the Manhattan arrived, having on board 
Rev. W. Benson and wife, from Eagle river, and my 
family. The captain ran into the river — quite an 
era in the history of Ontonagon — the first steam 
craft that had ever made the experiment. The citi- 
zens expressed their gratification on the occasion, by 
crowding upon the dock, and by loud and enthusiastic 
cheering. After discharging freight, the captain ran 
some distance up the river, but, getting aground, was 



292 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

forced to retreat. The Ontonagon river might have 
been navigated for several miles, but for obstructions 
lodged in places on the bottom. I could get no 
promise of entertainment for my family, on shore, 
and we were compelled to find lodgings on board 
the Manhattan for the night. 

Saturday, 28th, we all went ashore. My wife and 
daughter and sister Benson remained at the mouth of 
the river with sister Day, while brother Day, brother 
Benson, and myself, went to the Minnesota Mine to 
spend the Sabbath. The trail was now exceedingly 
muddy — much of the way we waded nearly knee- 
deep in mud and water — distance, fourteen miles. 
We arrived about three o'clock, P. M., and were 
kindly received by Mr. Roberts, the Agent. 

Sabbath morning I preached in the upper part of 
the whim house, to a respectable congregation of 
men — but one female. Brother Benson preached in 
the afternoon, after which we administered the Lord's 
supper to six or seven persons; and at night I 
preached again to a good congregation of men — not 
a woman present. A good influence pervaded these 
seasons of worship; but this was as yet the day of 
small things, religiously, for the Minnesota location. 

Monday we returned to the mouth of the river, 
where Mr. T. Hanna kindly entertained me and my 
family. Wednesday morning the Monticello came 
into the river, on which boat we left the Ontonagon 
the same evening. Thursday morning we arrived 
at Eagle river before day. Here I parted with my 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 293 

family at nine o'clock, A. M.; they bound for Copper 
Harbor, to await my return from the Kewawenon 
mission. The day I spent in the vicinity of the 
Cliff Mine, and the night with brother Benson at 
the Phoenix Mine. 

INDEPENDENCE. 

Every true American must hail with patriotic de- 
light the birthday of the independence of the United 
States. This must be so, whether surrounded by the 
pomp and glitter of a regular celebration, or, like an 
exile, shut out from such exciting scenes, and left a 
lone wanderer in the wilderness. Friday morning, 
July 4th, I started for Kewawenon. Two men were 
to meet me at the Cliff, or at the North American, to 
accompany me. I called at each place, and was 
detained in waiting an hour and a half; then went 
some eight miles to the Forsythe Mine, and waited 
again four hours. My disappointment being now 
confirmed, I shouldered my sachel and started, re- 
solved to make the best of it alone. Eight miles 
over a hilly trail brought me out of the woods, to 
the head of Torch Lake. A Dutchman was living 
here in an old, dilapidated storehouse, which more 
resembled a filthy stable than a human habitation. I 
took a lunch to stay my stomach. There was nothing 
here peculiarly interesting for a Fourth of July enter- 
tainment. At half-past six o'clock, P. M., I left in a 
small log canoe. 

The Lake fortunately was calm. Soon after I had 



294 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

crossed Torch Lake night shut in around me. I fol- 
lowed the meanderings of Torch river till it led into 
Portage Lake, and still kept on my course till after 
midnight, having paddled some fifteen miles. It now 
became very dark, and the clouds were threatening. 
For some distance the shore was fringed with tangled 
bushes, logs, and grassy bogs. Several times I ran 
the canoe into these obstructions, and had to back 
out, and feel my way along as well as I could. I 
was near an Indian cabin, but could not tell where 
was the landing, which was in a little cove. I called 
out several times, and as often heard a voice dis- 
tinctly from the opposite shore of Portage Lake — 
the echo doubtless of my own. Now the dogs barked, 
by which means I found the landing. On going to 
the cabin I found it locked, and no person about. I 
had perspired freely from such severe exercise. My 
clothes were quite wet from the water splashing over 
my little dug-out, and, from my cramped position for 
more than six hours, my limbs were sore, and I felt 
exhausted. Without bed or blanket, and with the 
dogs for companions, I kindled a fire, took the soft 
side of a piece of puncheon, which I had placed 
before the fire, occasionally changing sides to dry my 
wet clothes and relieve my aching limbs. I rested 
some, but did not sleep. At day dawn it seemed as 
if I should be devoured by the sanguinary swarms 
of insect tribes, which gathered around for a morning 
repast. I arose and prepared my breakfast. My 
store was a little hard bread, some tea and sugar. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 295 

I had a little tin-cup, which sister Benson thought- 
fully had put into my sachel to drink out of. How 
I made it answer for tea-kettle, tea-pot, cup, saucer, 
and all, the reader must guess. Braced up for the 
toils of the day with such a repast, I was again in 
the canoe, headed for the Entry, or mouth of the 
Portage, some five miles farther. On my arrival I 
found the Indian and his son at whose cabin I had 
sought shelter. In the afternoon they took a boat 
and conveyed me over to the Kewawenon mission. 
For want of sleep I could scarcely keep my eyes 
open sufficiently to steer our boat. We arrived at 
the mission just before sundown. But I felt rather 
worse for the wear, owing to my independent way of 
spending " the glorious Fourth" 

The Sabbath spent at the mission was, as usual, a 
time of interest and profit. Sister Barnum was still 
lingering on the shores of time, ripening for heaven. 
When I left the mission each of the two preceding 
seasons, I did not expect to see her again in time ; 
but God had kindly prolonged her stay. 

I will not detain the reader with particulars of our 
consultation with the Indians on Monday, except to 
give a brief speech made by Kog-wa-on, a very sen- 
sible and, in many respects, exemplary man, though 
not a professed Christian: "I wish to say a few 
words, and I do not wish you to throw them out of 
doors. I wish that my grandfather had embraced 
the Gospel. If the Gospel had come among us first, 

then we would not have had the fire-water; but the 
25 



296 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

fire-water came among us before the Gospel, and we 
received it, and it was the strongest and overcame 
us. I do not blame the Indians for drinking the fire- 
water. If the white people did not make it and 
bring it to us, we should not have it." 

I replied that "it was not good white men who 
made and brought them the fire-water ; that this was 
done by bad men ; that all good white men hated this 
business, and would be glad to put it down if they 
could ; and that the only way for the Indians was not 
to touch the accursed poison — they could let it alone 
if they would. If you put your hand into the fire, 
it will burn you ; and if you drink this fire-water, it 
will burn and consume your souls." 

Tuesday, on account of head wind, I did not get 
away from the mission till three o'clock, P. M.; 
reached the Phoenix Mine, at Eagle river, Thursday 
morning, in time to breakfast with the family of 
brother Benson. I spent the rest of the day and 
the day following in the vicinity of Eagle river. 
Saturday afternoon we attended to the business of 
the quarterly conference; preached in the evening. 
Sabbath morning some twenty-six were in attendance 
at the love-feast. God was in the midst to bless. I 
preached to a respectable congregation at half-past 
ten o'clock, and baptized two children. I preached 
again at half-past two, P. M., and administered the 
sacrament of the Lord's supper. Afterward I went 
to the North American, and baptized Captain Paul's 
little daughter. At night I preached again at the 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 297 

Cliff; the house was well filled with attentive hearers. 
I took up a collection of $10.81 for the support of 
the Gospel. After the meeting had closed I walked 
with brother Benson and his wife some three miles, 
to their residence at the Phoenix Mine. After a day 
so filled up with active duties, rest was most welcome. 
Monday walked to Eagle river; here got an Indian 
to take me in his canoe, some eight miles, to Agate 
Harbor. Thence I endeavored to follow the old trail 
to Copper Harbor, which, since I had traveled it 
last, had grown up with grass, and was obstructed 
by fallen timber and bushes, so that in one place 
I missed my way, and traveled a considerable dis- 
tance before I got into the trail again. When I 
reached the Harbor I was wet, cap-a-pie, from the 
dripping bushes and grass. Here I was rejoiced to 
unite once more with my family. Wednesday we 
took passage on the Monticello for the Saut. We were 
out only nineteen hours till we were at M'Knight's 
wharf at the Saut — probably the quickest trip ever 
before made from Copper Harbor. After the vicis- 
situdes of a tour of seven weeks, lacking a few 
hours, it was grateful to our feelings to set foot 
again in our unpretending home. 



298 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER XXI. 

CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF THE MISSIONS. 

With the exception of some slight amendments, 
the following statement of the condition and pros- 
pects of the missions in the Indian Mission district 
was penned near the close of the summer of 1851 : 

I. Indian Missions. — Impediments have been 
thrown in the way of our efforts to evangelize the 
Indians in the western part of this district, by the 
efforts of the Government to effect their removal. 
The Indians have already suffered much. They have 
felt, in consequence, chafed in their minds, and, to 
a considerable extent, they are jealous of their best 
friends, because of the wrongs they have suffered. 
To give a brief detail of facts. 

Removal of the Payment to Sandy Lake. — Since 
the treaty the payment had been made at La Pointe. 
This place was quite central, so far as the Indians 
connected with our missions were concerned, and 
easy of access. But with a view to effecting the 
removal of the Indians west the payment was removed 
to Sandy Lake, and a refusal to go there to receive 
it amounted to a forfeiture. The Indians about Ke- 
wawenon did not go, and, as a result, got nothing. 
A large band of Indians at Lake Vieux Desert also 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 299 

suffered the loss of their payment before they would 
consent to go to Sandy Lake. If I was correctly 
informed none of them went. Many, however, from 
different points did convene at the call of the Agent. 
Troubles after their arrival at Sandy Lake. — They 
were in a most destitute situation. As their route 
led across land portages, some of them miles in ex- 
tent, they could not take with them bark to construct 
lodges. Nor could any thing be obtained at Sandy 
Lake to afford even a tolerable shelter for several 
hundred Indians from the pelting rain and snows 
of autumn. Their clothing was scarcely a circum- 
stance. The wood they burned, as the missionaries 
informed me, they carried on their backs the distance 
of a mile to a mile and a half. Nor were they any 
better off for food. They waited a long time for the 
arrival of the Agent — threatened to force open the 
provision store and help themselves, and would have 
done so but for the resolute manner in which it had 
been guarded. Their provisions they must and did 
get, which were nearly or quite consumed while wait- 
ing for their pay. Another aggravating circumstance 
was connected with their provisions. The contractors 
had stored a large quantity of the flour near the Mis- 
sissippi. The river rose, and, for some time, the 
flour was submerged, and consequently badly dam- 
aged. But, such as it was, it was fed out to the hun- 
gry Indians. Almost incited to insurrection by past 
grievances, they were measurably quieted in hope of 
being paid off on the arrival of the Agent. After 



300 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

waiting about two months, what must have been their 
disappointment to be met with the cold comfort that 
their Great Father (f) was not yet ready to pay them ; 
they must wait another year for their money! 

Sickness and Death. — Meanwhile disease had been 
making terrible ravages among them. It assumed 
the form of dysentery ; some thought it to be a mod- 
ification of cholera. Simultaneously the measles was 
prevailing. As a result of the malignant diseases 
abroad, there were about two hundred deaths. Fre- 
quently seven or eight died in a day. So alarming 
was the mortality that the Indians complained that 
they could not bury their dead. Coffins could not 
be procured, and often the body of the deceased was 
wrapped up in a piece of bark and buried slightly 
under ground. At times a hole was dug and several 
corpses together thrown in and covered up. Often 
when one died in a wigwam, the surviving friends 
would dig a grave in the center, bury their dead, and 
remove their lodge. All over the cleared land graves 
were to be seen in every direction, for miles distant, 
from Sandy Lake; they were to be found in the 
woods. Some, it is not known how many, were in- 
terred by their friends on their way home. I was 
credibly informed that there were instances in which 
the sick were unable to accompany their relatives, 
and were left alone to perish in the wilderness. One 
man, it is said, importuned his wife to remain with 
him and not to suffer him to die alone. She replied 
that if she should remain she must die too, and thus 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 301 

left him. On my way to Sandy Lake I saw a number 
of those recent graves, and, in some places, there 
were remaining racks or frames constructed for the 
support of the sick. The evidences of a terrible 
calamity every-where met the eye. 

Destruction of Canoes. — The Indians who went to 
payment via the St. Louis river, left their canoes 
at the confluence of the East Savan and the St. 
Louis, thinking that it would not be safe to take them 
to the head of the Savan, as that might be frozen 
over before they returned. But they did not dream 
of being detained till the large and rapid St. Louis 
should be frozen over. Such, however, was the fact. 
.Finding the rivers closed on their return, and all a 
snowy wilderness around, some were so enraged that 
they broke their canoes in pieces for fuel, others were 
purposely broken to prevent them from being stolen; 
many more were simply left in the snow, and, on the 
opening of spring, some were stolen, many were car- 
ried down the St. Louis and lodged among the flood- 
wood, or against the banks. I saw quite a number 
in this situation. A few were still remaining, when 
I passed, where they had been left. The number 
of the canoes thus sacrificed is not known. The 
Indians said a hundred or more. They were worth 
from eight to twenty dollars each, which shows a 
heavy destruction of property, besides the inconven- 
ience and hardship to which the Indians were sub- 
jected in being compelled to walk home, and carry 
their effects on their backs. 



302 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

With this chain of distressing evils, the cause of 
which the Indians charge upon the Government, it 
is not to be wondered at that many should have been 
driven almost to desperation. And, as it is difficult 
for the Indians to distinguish between friends and 
enemies ; as they can not be expected to make due 
allowance for the unavoidable failures of the Govern- 
ment, it is no great wonder that they should feel 
jealous even of the missionaries; rank them with 
others as enemies and treat them accordingly. This 
may account for the treatment received by our mis- 
sionaries at Sandy Lake the past winter. It must, 
however, be set down to the credit of the Indians 
that the ill treatment suffered by the missionaries is 
to be charged, not to the Indians en masse, but to 
a few of the most abandoned. 

My report, which was forwarded to the Corres- 
ponding Secretary of the Missionary Society some 
time near the close of the summer, and published 
in the Missionary Advocate, will give a succinct view 
of the condition and prospects of our missions. It 
is here given entire, with Dr. Durbin's brief notice 
at the head: 

INDIAN MISSIONS. 

Michigan Conference. — The following is the re- 
port of the Rev. J. H. Pitezel, Superintendent of the 
Indian Missionary District, dated August 25th. It 
is made up of sunshine and clouds, yet we discern 
in it the promise of blessed fruit. The reader at 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 303 

home will not read without reflecting on the toils and 
dangers of the missionaries and their families : 

"Saut Ste. Marie Mission — J. H. Pitezel, S. 
Steele, and P. Marksman, Missionaries. — This mis- 
sion embraces two places where religious services 
are kept up regularly on the Sabbath ; and occasion- 
ally we have meetings at two other places, at each 
of which are a few Indians. 

" Saut Ste. Marie Village. — Here our labors are 
confined to the white population. In the summer 
this is the great thoroughfare to Lake Superior, and 
persons of all ranks pass through, from most parts 
of the world. Many of these travelers, from time to 
time, attend upon the worship of God with us, and ob- 
tain, we trust, a passing benefit. It is in this respect, 
more than in view of any very permanent religious 
society, that this place is important, and continues to 
be occupied by us. Even here we are not without 
tokens of Divine favor, and feel that we are doing 
something at least to extend the kingdom of our 
Master. 

"Naomikong. — This has been the residence of 
brothers Steele and Marksman, and most of our 
Indians live here. These Indians, as a body, are 
sober and respectable. Intemperance is only occa- 
sional among them, though they are brought into 
frequent contact with the destructive fire-water. Now 
owners of good land, and in the vicinity of a saw- 
mill, they are building houses and cultivating the 
soil as fast as their means will allow. They are 



304 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

gradually, but certainly, improving in the arts of 
civilized life. A day school has been kept up most 
of the time, numbering twenty-one boys and seven 
girls. Five children have been boarded in the mis- 
sion family. Most of the children were quite regular 
in their attendance; some not so. They are reported 
as having made good proficiency in the common Eng- 
lish branches. 

"The Church has been decidedly prospered and 
blessed this year. It numbers — white members, five ; 
Indians, fifty-eight; and probationers among the In- 
dians, ten. We have an increase of twenty-eight 
members over last year. This is a large increase 
among a small Indian community. A meeting was 
commenced the 13th inst., and closed last Sabbath 
evening. I was present the first two days. While 
there we were blessed in waiting upon the Lord to- 
gether. Brother Steele informed me that the meet- 
ing increased in interest to the close; they had the 
best of the wine at the close of the feast. On Sab- 
bath the school-house would not hold all the people. 
When built we supposed it would hold all the people 
in the settlement ; but others are gathering in around 
us, and if we are only suffered quietly to pursue our 
work, we have reason to believe that much good will 
yet be accomplished. 

"At Shaw's place, six miles above this, we have 
meetings occasionally. 

"Waishkees Bay is the name of the other place 
occasionally visited by the missionaries. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 305 

" Kewawenon Mission — JV. Barnum and Ira Stacy, 
Missionaries; Joseph Bushay, Interpreter. — At this 
station we number forty-four Indian members and 
one probationer ; two whites. This shows a decrease 
of seven during the year. We are not surprised at 
this. The small-pox and other diseases broke out last 
winter, and operated much against the public meetings. 
And then the unsettled state of Indian affairs gener- 
ally — the fear of having to remove, more than any- 
thing else — operated against the religious prosperity 
of these Indians. The school has been small, num- 
bering only eighteen scholars. The children belong- 
ing to the band are not numerous. Brother I. Stacy 
has taught the school. The children in general have 
learned well. The temporal condition of the mis- 
sion was never as good as now. We have a good 
church, and every convenience to prosecute our labors 
successfully ; more so than at any other point in this 
district. Will the Government force us to pull up 
stakes here? 

" Carp River. — This place is situated on the south 
shore of Lake Superior, about forty miles west of 
Grand Island, the depot of the iron mines. Some 
three or four companies are working in the vicinity. 
The settlers are mostly Americans, intelligent and 
enterprising. It is destined to be one of the most 
important points on the Lake; it has opened already 
a large trade. Brother Barnum recently visited the 
people, and spent some time among them. He was 
very kindly received, and they insist on having a 



306 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Methodist preacher next year. They must have one, 
if one is to be had. We have, in the vicinity, twenty- 
eight members. Union meetings and a union Sab- 
bath school are kept up by the representatives of 
different Churches in the absence of a preacher. 

" Sandy Lake and Mill Lac Missions — S. Spates 
and J. W. Holt, Missionaries. — No flattering report 
can be made of this mission for the past year. It 
has been a year unparalleled in its history for deep 
and sore trials among the missionaries, and scarcely 
ever have such calamities befallen the Indians. To 
them it has been a year of mourning and woe. They 
carry this in their countenances and upon their black- 
ened skins. The infrequency of their accustomed 
mittas, the few dances they celebrate, and the com- 
parative silence and gloom that has seemed to settle 
down upon them, are proofs of this. We have among 
them only four members and two whites, but even in 
these we see the effects of the power of the Gospel. 
They stand as a beacon to others. In the midst of 
the sorest trials, the little few have experienced the 
greatest Divine support. 

" The school, taught by brother Holt, has numbered 
thirty scholars. Their attendance has not been very 
regular, nor have they made as much progress as the 
children at other stations. There is a cause for this : 
they are just emerging from the dense darkness of 
heathenism, and with a succession of calamities, they 
have been ill prepared to learn. 

"The afflictions the missionaries were called to 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 307 

endure, and the hostile demonstrations of some of 
the Indians, prevented the former from visiting Mill 
Lac. They still call to us for help ; and, if possible, a 
missionary should be appointed among them. Brother 
Spates is inclined to go there next fall if it is in 
accordance with the will of the appointing power. 

"Fond du Lac has been unoccupied the last year; 
but there are important reasons why this station 
should be reoccupied. About four hundred Indians 
are now there, and their number will, doubtless, be 
much increased soon, if the Government succeeds in 
coaxing the Indians that way. We have a tolerable 
mission-house and garden well inclosed, and a log- 
house, which with small expense could be finished off. 
This would be comfortable for school and meetings. 

"Eagle River Mission — Wm. Benson, Mission- 
ary. — The work here is among the copper mines, and 
has been prospered the past year. From twelve, the 
membership has increased to forty-two. The appro- 
priation from the Missionary Society was one hundred 
dollars. The brethren and friends there have sent 
you back sixty dollars, missionary collection, and 
nobly sustained their missionary and his family. A 
flourishing Sabbath school is kept up at the Cliff 
Mine. A church has been built, which we use; but 
it is owned by the Pittsburg and Boston Company. 
The work here is greatly enlarging, and will need 
next year two missionaries. Thus the people who 
were not a people, have become the people of God. 
Our quarterly meeting at the Cliff, a short time since, 



308 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

was a most blessed season. Seldom have I witnessed 
a more deeply-impressive meeting, especially the love- 
feast. Our hearts were strangely warmed while we 
listened to the heart-felt experience of our brethren 
from across the Atlantic. Five joined us on the 
occasion. 

"Ontonagon Mission — U. IT. Day, Missionary. — 
This is one of the most prominent points on the Lake. 
It has about twenty mines, which make the mouth 
of the river of this name their depot. Other mines 
will be constantly opening. This section is superior 
to almost all others about the Lake for fine agricul- 
tural land. From its natural resources it is capable 
of supporting a dense population. It must and will 
be occupied. It forms already a large and laborious 
circuit. The missionary has traveled afoot round a 
circuit of one hundred and sixty or one hundred and 
seventy miles, once in four weeks — in winter on snow- 
shoes, and in summer over trails, wading often in 
water knee-deep, annoyed by flies and musketoes, 
enduring all the fatigues of the most severe physical 
labor. It was an experiment to send a man there 
last fall, not knowing where he was to take shelter, 
or whether he would be sustained; but, with one 
hundred dollars' appropriation from the Missionary 
Society, the people have generously given him his 
support. There is now work in this field ample for 
two men, if they could be sustained. We have twelve 
members. I might say many more things about the 
station among the miners, but it would extend my 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 309 

report to an undue length. I will simply say that 
Eagle River mission is the first branch from the 
Kewawenon mission; Ontonagon is the second branch 
from the same stem; Carp River, among the iron 
mines, will, we hope, next year constitute its third 
branch. Thus it will be seen that Providence has 
been accomplishing an important work by means of 
our Indian mission at Kewawenon. The Lord's name 
have all the praise!" 

Several scattering mines in the vicinity of Portage 
Lake had recommenced work with flattering prospects 
of success. An additional field was here opening, 
inviting the missionary to new toils and successes. 

As evidences of the general prosperity of the work 
in the district the following statistics will speak for 
themselves : We numbered 6 Sunday schools, 32 offi- 
cers and teachers, 170 scholars, 560 volumes in li- 
brary, 2 Bible classes; raised $26.38 to defray ex- 
penses of schools, and $15 for benevolent purposes. 
•Seventeen Sunday School Advocates were taken. One 
conversion connected with this department. For the 
missionary cause there was raised $106.81, a falling 
off here of $42.04 from the previous year. 

The Indian membership returned to conference was 
one hundred and seventeen — two less than the pre- 
vious year, owing to falling off at Fond du Lac, Sandy 
Lake, and Kewawenon. Among the white population 
there was an increase of forty-eight, and one local 
preacher over the previous year. Total white mem- 
bers, ninety-two. 



310 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

With all the mutations above stated we think the 
reader will perceive unmistakable evidences of pros- 
perity as connected with the missions of Lake Su- 
perior. If there were fluctuations in the Church, the 
same may be said of the state of society outside of 
the Church; the one is sufficient to account for the 
other. "The wilderness and the solitary place" was 
gladdening, and "the desert" was beginning "to blos- 
som as the rose." Toward the close of the summer 
of 1851 our missionaries at Sandy Lake were again 
sorely afflicted. The following account is taken from 
one of my reports published in the Missionary Ad- 
vocate : 

"Sandy Lake and Mill Lac. — In the latter part 
of the summer the scarlet fever broke out here, and 
among the victims of its rage were the children of 
the Rev. S. Spates, the missionary. Brother Spates 
writes, that, for a time, it was doubtful whether they 
would live or die. 'But,' he says, 'God had mercy 
on us, lest we should have sorrow upon sorrow.' 
This letter was dated July 29th. He writes again, 
August 9th : i Our health has greatly improved since 
my last: still the little girl, Imogen, is not well; her 
neck is much swollen. I was quite sick for about 
two weeks with sore throat.' It seems that nearly 
all the white people were similarly affected. Let it be 
remembered that while those missionaries are thus 
attacked with the most fatal diseases, they are more 
than two hundred miles distant from the aid of a 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 311 

"physician! The few deaths that have occurred among 
the missionaries about Lake Superior, during the last 
sixteen years, either from disease or accident, is 
striking evidence of Divine interposition." 

26 



312 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER XXII. 

TRAVELS AND MISSIONARY EFFORTS IN THE 
WINTER OF 1851-2. 

The Michigan annual conference had once more 
been in session, and the preachers had repaired to 
their various fields of labor and responsibility. Once 
more, in company with several other missionaries, we 
were on our way to the Saut. As we were borne 
along on the bosom of the deep the following note 
was penned: 

"We are just about to enter upon our work for 
another year. There is much in the past to humble 
us — our want of devotedness to God — our want of 
usefulness. for a fresh baptism from heaven for 
the work! 'Not by might nor by power, but by my 
Spirit, saith the Lord of hosts.' 

' Give us thy strength, thou God of power, 
Then let winds blow or thunders roar.' 

All will be well if God be with us." 

After our arrival, the missionaries bound for Lake 
Superior were, for some time, detained with us till 
they could leave for their respective fields. Some of 
the time we had ten besides our own family under our 
roof. After a lapse of more than two weeks, all had 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 313 

left except brother Marksman and family, whose 
appointment was to the Fond du Lac mission. 

Word just now reached us of the wreck of the 
Monticello, on the rocky coast between Eagle river 
and the Ontonagon ; providentially, no lives were lost. 
But this disaster tended greatly to derange business 
about the Lake. Owing to this, brother Marksman 
was detained for the winter, which he spent at Naom- 
ikong. This was, in the end, providential, as the 
interpreter for this station, whose residence was near 
Saginaw, did not arrive. To have been left in this 
condition our mission must have suffered greatly. I 
may as well add here, that circumstances did not jus- 
tify brother M.'s leaving in the spring for Fond du 
Lac ; that post was, consequently, not reoccupied. 

About the middle of October I accompanied brother 
Marksman and his family to ISTaomikohg. A day was 
spent in procuring lumber to add to our mission im- 
provements. Sabbath day was filled up with relig- 
ious exercises. Monday, assisted by only one man, I 
sailed home in the large batteau in which we had 
boated up supplies to the mission. We arrived be- 
fore three o'clock, P. M., highly favored with such a 
fine run. 

The Episcopal missionary, Rev. Mr. Anderson, who 
had been stationed at Garden river, Canada West, 
had left. The Wesleyan Methodist Missionary So- 
ciety sent a very active and devoted man, Rev. Mr. 
M'Dougall, to this place, taking into his field the 
Bruce Mine. Brother M'D. was not an ordained 



314 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

preacher, and had solicited my aid in administering 
the ordinances to his people, which was cheerfully 
rendered, and for which, in return, we received val- 
uable help from him. It was exceedingly gratifying 
to have such a neighbor in the mission field. 

On the 31st of December I went, with my family, to 
Garden river, to aid brother M'D. in holding a watch 
meeting. It was a season of interest and profit. 
During its progress I had the privilege of baptizing 
an infant of the missionaries, and administering the 
sacrament of the Lord's supper to the Indian mem- 
bership and others. Sugar Island here forms the 
American shore of the Ste. Marie's river. Some 
two miles below, on this island, is the residence of 
Mr. S. P. Church, who, with his excellent lady, be- 
longed to the Congregational Church at Detroit. Mr. 
Church is making a fortune here at farming and 
making raspberry jamb, out of this delicious fruit, 
which grows so abundantly in all that region. While 
at Garden river we had a delightful visit with this 
Christian family, who accompanied us on the 2d of 
January to Rev. Mr. M'DougalPs, where I adminis- 
tered the sacrament of the Lord's supper to a little 
group of eight persons — all white but one. In those 
delightful services we had proof not only of the unity 
of Methodism, but of the essential unity of Chris- 
tians of every name. 

Early in January I visited again the station at 
Naomikong. I employed a cutter to carry me to 
Waishkees Bay; thence walked to the saw-mill. It 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 315 

was a fatiguing walk of four hours and a half. On 
the way I lamed one of my knees badly, and became 
much exhausted. I was kindly entertained at Mrs. 
P.'s. But when I sat down to the supper table, I 
became so faint that I had to go out in the open air. 
I finally took some refreshment, and, after a good 
night's rest, was all right, except the lameness. 

Friday, 9th, my brother J., who was then at the 
mill, accompanied me to the mission. We had meet- 
ing at night — a good religious feeling seemed to 
prevail. The ice had but recently formed, and most 
of the Indians were engaged in fishing on Satur- 
day. At night we had preaching again. The word 
was heard attentively. Our meetings on Sabbath 
were well attended, and generally spiritual. On Mon- 
day, accompanied by J. 0., I walked to Waishkees 
Bay, via the saw-mill. By this time my lame knee 
was quite stiff. I took a short rest here and some 
refreshment; walked on about an hour more, and 
met W. J., who had come after me with horse and 
cutter. It was six o'clock, P. M., when we reached 
home. Having no overcoat with me, I became much 
chilled from riding in the cold. 

TRIP TO THE BRUCE MINE. 

Thursday, February 19th, I left the Saut to accom- 
pany brother M'Dougall to the Bruce Mine, Canada. 
The day was fine. After about four hours walking 
we reached Garden river. Here I preached at night, 
and administered the sacrament of the Lord's supper. 



316 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

After the meeting I went with brother Church to his 
residence on Sugar Island, and spent the night with 
his kind family. 

Friday, 20th, about eight o'clock, A. M., brother 
M'Dougall came along with an Indian pony and 
cutter. We had another fine day, but the going was 
hard. The upper crust was not sufficient to bear, 
which made it slow and fatiguing work for the pony. 
We went about ten miles, and stopped at an Indian 
shanty to feed and take a lunch. We then traveled 
about eight miles farther, and put up for the night 
with Belonzha, a Frenchman. We should have rested 
comfortably but for two things — our bedstead was too 
short and the covering light. Saturday, about half- 
past one o'clock, P. M., we had reached the Bruce 
Mine, after a cold ride of eighteen miles — wind strong 
in our faces all the time. We were cordially wel- 
comed, and every attention bestowed upon us to 
render us comfortable. 

At night we had an interesting and profitable tem- 
perance meeting, well attended. Brother M'Dougall 
offered the following resolution, to which he spoke at 
some length and with good effect : 

"Resolved, That the temperance cause is the cause 
of humanity, and deserves the support of every phi- 
lanthropist, and especially of every Christian." 

I seconded the resolution, and spoke at some length 
and with much freedom. Twenty-two signed the 
pledge of total abstinence, and several others prom- 
ised to do the same. Great attention was paid 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 317 

throughout the meeting to what was said. No op- 
position was offered to any thing except by a Scotch- 
man, the pedagogue of the village. On being asked 
to sign the pledge, he replied, " I am not going to do 

any thing to hurt my ," alias, stomach. 

Sunday, 22d, was a gracious day to the people of 
Bruce Mine. The small class, consisting of seven 
members, met together before preaching ; and a melt- 
ing time it was to those present. At half-past ten 
o'clock I had the privilege of preaching to a very 
attentive congregation. I felt that the word of God 
was not bound. At two o'clock, P. M., we met 
again. I baptized five children. The congregation 
was larger than in the morning, to whom brother 
M'Dougall preached a good sermon from Matthew 
xvi, 26. Preaching was followed by the love-feast — 
another time of heavenly influence. One female con- 
fessed her sins and cried aloud to God for mercy. A 
backslider who had fallen, through strong drink, and 
who had signed the pledge the evening before, con- 
fessed his wanderings, and was resolved to return to 
God. I saAV some weeping who did not speak. At 
night the congregation was larger than it had been 
before, and was deeply solemn and attentive while 
I strove again to proclaim the truth of God. After- 
ward we partook of the eucharist together, during 
which we felt that the Lord of the feast was present 
to sup with us. There appeared among the little 
few much of the revival spirit, and we saw no reason 
why a good revival would not be the result of a little 



318 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

extra effort. I hope ever to retain in my remem- 
brance the seasons of heavenly communion I enjoyed 
with our English brethren at the Bruce Mine. 

Monday afternoon we left the Bruce Mine — wind 
in our face. We reached the Frenchman's, where we 
spent the night. Tuesday was a snowy and stormy 
day. The wind blew hard, and snow fell so thick as 
at times to darken our prospect. We returned by 
the way of Hay Lake — a route different from the 
one we went — and reached Little Rapids by one 
o'clock, P. M., where we fed our horse and got some- 
thing to eat. At three o'clock, P. M., we had reached 
home in safety. In the evening brother M. left us 
for his home at Garden river. The following night 
was exceedingly stormy. The next morning our 
door-yard was nearly filled with the drifting snow, 
and the storm still increasing. It was reason for 
thankfulness that we were not exposed to the pelting 
storm. 

Thursday, March 11th, Rev. Mr. M'Dougall and 
his interpreter arrived at our place, to accompany 
me to Naomikong. He preached to our people at 
night. Friday we took a horse and cutter, and set 
out on our journey. The snow and water on the 
ice rendered it very bad going, and we were forced 
to walk much of the way. At ten o'clock at night 
we reached the saw-mill, twenty-eight miles. Mr. 
P.'s family were in bed, but arose and got us some 
refreshment, and kindly entertained us. Saturday 
we walked the rest of the way; had very wet feet 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 319 

from constantly breaking through the upper crust. 
Most of the day was spent in visiting the Indians. 
At night brother Blaker — brother M'DougalPs inter- 
preter — preached to the Indians. The meeting was 
well attended, and all seemed interested. Sabbath 
morning we had a precious love-feast, at the close of 
which four united with the society on trial. Brother 
M'Dougall preached afterward from Isaiah xlv, 22. 
His sermon was listened to by the Indians with 
marked attention. This was followed by the sacra- 
ment of the Lord's supper. Brother M'D. preached 
again at night; after which seekers of religion were 
invited forward for prayers. Nine came, and among 
them three of the mission boys. Two or three pro- 
fessed to have received comfort. One Catholic Indian 
came, and said that he was now convinced of his 
error. One young man in the congregation was 
much affected, but did not venture forward. He 
kneeled down and prayed where he was. 

Monday we left the mission, and walked to the 
mill. Here we got some refreshments and dried our 
wet moccasins. We now left the mill, and rode about 
two miles, when it commenced to storm terribly — for- 
tunately it was on our backs. The horse got along 
so tardily that we left it with brother B., and brother 
M'D. and myself went on foot, till we reached Waish- 
kees Bay, a little before night. Our moccasins and 
pants, from the knees down, were thickly crusted over 
with ice, from constant wading, and became quite cum- 
bersome. But we had a good meeting here with the 

27 



320 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Indians at night, and were comfortably entertained. 
Tuesday the ice bore up the horse well, and we rode 
most of the way to the Saut, which we reached about 
noon. While those missionary exchanges were most 
agreeable to all concerned, they exerted a quickening 
influence on our mission stations on both sides of the 
line which divided the two governments. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 321 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

REVIVAL AT THE SAUT — THE INEBRIATE- 
MELANCHOLY CASUALTY. 

During the fall and early part of the winter the 
prospect at the Saut de Ste. Marie seemed dark and 
unpromising. The sacredness of the holy Sabbath 
was often violated by the arrival and departure of 
boats, and the tumult and business which ensued. 
As a specimen, on the 9th of November three steam- 
ers left for the lower ports, two American and one 
British. Sometimes those arrivals and departures 
were just about the hour of public worship, and made 
our congregations fluctuating. But " the sound of 
the church-going bell" faithfully warned the people 
of the hour of prayer, and a constant use of the 
stated public means of grace was as a beacon-light 
amid the surrounding darkness. 

Our winter commenced quite early. By the 16th 
of November snow was several inches deep, and 
sleighing good. November 27th was the day set 
apart for thanksgiving by the Governor of the state. 
It was arranged to have a sermon on the occasion. 
One of our steamers advertised to leave at twelve 
o'clock, M., which, as in many other instances, made 
our attendance at Church small. 



322 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Our last mail for the fall arrived the same day 
on the steamer London. 

As the winter progressed things became more set- 
tled, our congregations increased, and a religious in- 
terest began to be manifest among the people. The 
hand of Providence was clearly traceable in this 
movement, and a somewhat particular account may 
not be unacceptable to the reader. 

In 1832 a very gracious revival of religion broke 
out here, under the labors of Rev. Mr. Porter, of the 
Congregational Church, and Rev. A. Bingham, the 
resident Baptist missionary. This was confined mostly 
to Fort Brady. Two years after a very precious 
work again broke out in the Fort, under the labors 
of Rev. John Clark, of precious memory. See the 
account given in Hall's Life of Rev. John Clark, 
pp. 110, 111. But, from numerous changes in the 
army, if from no other cause, no fruit of those re- 
vivals was to be found at the Saut. 

On our arrival at the Saut we found no class among 
the whites. How long before this was the case I can 
not say. We need not wonder at this when we re- 
flect that the masses are Roman Catholic; that the 
few of the nominally-Protestant population have been 
fluctuating, differing much every season ; and that the 
place has been noted for intemperance and kindred 
vices. It has only been by spells that half a dozen 
praying persons of different persuasions could be 
convened for prayer. 

On returning from conference in the fall we re- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 323 

solved to make one more trial in the strength of the 
Lord, and, if no change could be effected, to recom- 
mend a discontinuance of effort here. Notice was 
given that a prayer meeting would be conducted at 
our house every Thursday evening, whether any one 
should meet with us or not. If we could do no 
better we could make it a family prayer meeting. 
These meetings were, accordingly, strictly kept up, 
and, with the exception of an evening or two, for a 
long time, there was but one person besides myself 
and wife to take part in them. In the month of 
December Mrs. M., wife of one of the sergeants of 
the Fort, became powerfully convicted under the 
preaching of the word. She came to the prayer 
meeting, but did not make known her feelings. Her 
convictions became deeper, and the sense of her con- 
dition more alarming the more she heard the Gospel 
preached. After attending two or three of the prayer 
meetings her exercise of mind became so great that 
she thought she could attend them no more. When 
preaching one day from 2 Peter i, 5-7, she said that 
her mind was greatly enlightened. She referred to 
this as the time when her burden was removed. She 
desired to converse with some one, but dared not to 
open her mind to any person previous to her happy 
release. Now she felt an indescribable inward peace 
and happiness. 

At length she made known her feelings to a pious 
lady in the place, and expressed a wish to converse 
with me on the subject. This lady proposed to 



824 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

mention it to me, but Mrs. M. wished her not to do 
so. The cross appeared too great for her to make 
an open profession. 

At this time I was at Naomikong. Measurably 
conquering her fears, she came and told Mrs. Pitezel 
the state of her mind. On my return I went to see 
her, and found her in the happy frame of mind before 
described. She said, "I am very weak, but I hang 
upon Jesus, from whom I derive continual support." 
She read the word of God much, which was to her 
very precious. She immediately erected the family 
altar. I found her husband very serious as a result 
of his wife's conversion. What she had already 
experienced she said she would not exchange for 
all the world. She wanted to tell to every one what 
the Lord had done for her. While speaking of 
God's goodness her eyes were suffused with tears, 
and a heavenly joy seemed to light up her counte- 
nance. After a truly- edifying conversation with her 
and her husband I read a portion of Scripture, and 
in prayer commended them to God. 

An incident connected with this conversion should 
serve as a lesson to all who preach the Gospel. We 
are too apt to judge of the good effect of preaching 
by our own feelings ; that we accomplish most when 
we have most liberty. In my journal for that occa- 
sion I noted: "Did not preach with even my usual 
freedom." Yet God approved, and this woman was 
released from the burden of her sins. To him be 
the glory! 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 325 

One evening I called to see the sergeant's family 
in the Fort. I found them and two other soldiers 
surrounding a cheerful fire, one of the number read- 
ing Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress — a book Mrs. P. 
had loaned them — and the rest listening with deep 
interest. Mr. M. told me that "he had frequently 
formed vows to serve God, and had broken them ; 
that he had fallen into bad habits, which had strength- 
ened with his years ; that, in particular, he was pas- 
sionate, and often used profane language. He was 
now striving to leave off all these. He could not 
muster courage to attempt to pray in public; but he 
sought God in secret prayer." I conversed with the 
other two soldiers, who spoke seriously and ration- 
ally on the subject, and seemed desirous to be par- 
takers of this great salvation* They spoke of the 
difficulty of being Christians in the army — said that 
"it was the school of vice." I endeavored to show 
them that religion does not unfit us for any neces- 
sary duty in the station in which our lot is cast; 
that, on the contrary, it enabled us to perform it 
the better. This interview was closed by reading a 
chapter from the Holy Scriptures, accompanied by 
prayer. The following was recorded at the time in 
my journal: 

" Mr. M. accompanied me when I left to the gate 
of the Fort, speaking all the way about his situation. 
Just as we left the house he exclaimed, ' There is 
a great change in that woman/ meaning his wife. 
What a blessed change has this one conversion made 



326 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

in this family ! for a shower of grace to transform 
this wicked village ! 

" Thursday night, 22d. We have just closed the 
best prayer meeting I have ever attended at the 
Saut. Several were present besides our own family, 
and all were induced to pray. Mr. M., husband of 
the converted lady, prayed with humility and fer- 
vency. He has experienced a degree of comfort. 
Mr. R., a soldier, confessed the downward course he 
had been pursuing, and prayed for strength to live a 
new life. A woman prayed for God to change her 
wicked heart, to give her a new heart, and make her 
clean in the blood of Christ. 

"Sabbath, 25th. Our meetings during the day were 
pretty well attended. This evening our prayer meet- 
ing was a blessed season. One backslider has, I 
trust, been reclaimed. He testified that he had once 
indulged a hope in Christ, but never came out and 
united with any Church. He prayed in public to- 
night for the first time, and prayed and spoke very 
feelingly. Mrs. R. testified that for a long time she 
had read her Bible and prayed, but that she never 
had felt as she did last Thursday night at the prayer 
meeting. After she went home and had retired to 
rest, the words of the hymn came into her mind, 

1 Come hither, soul, I am the way.' 

She felt a change in her mind from that thne." 

The same evening I organized a class of ten 
members. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 327 

" Thursday, 29th. We had another blessed season 
with the little flock God has recently raised up among 
us. I read the General Rules of our societies. Then 
we prayed round, and spoke with each other respect- 
ing God's dealings with our souls, mingling our exer- 
cises with the songs of Zion. Some time ago we had 
none among us to sing; now the Lord hath put a new 
song into the mouth of several. Two joined us — 
one of these, a soldier, has been noted for Sabbath- 
breaking. He mentioned one instance. I give this 
as an illustration of the proverb that 'the way of 
the transgressor is hard.'' 

" ' Last spring early, while it was yet cold, I took 
my gun and went out to hunt ducks. I went to Mr. 
B., the Baptist missionary, and asked him for his 
boat to go down to Little Rapids, two miles below. 
Mr. B. replied, "I am astonished; this is the Sab- 
bath." He endeavored to dissuade me from my 
purpose. I went away much ashamed, but did not 
follow his advice. With my comrade, I succeeded in 
getting another boat. We glided down the river 
very nicely to Little Rapids. There we picked up 
a duck which I shot the other day, but could not get 
for want of a boat. We then went among the islands 
in front of the mission. Here I got thrown out of 
the boat into the water, which was exceedingly cold. 
I got into the boat again, and crossed over to an 
island, where I made a fire, and had to strip off and 
dry my clothes. I had on a pair of new boots which 
had cost me four dollars. While drying my clothes 



328 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

I burned one of the boots, and spoiled it. With con- 
siderable difficulty, as well as suffering from the cold, 
we worked our way up stream, and returned home. 
This was the last of my Sabbath-hunting.' 

".Now, for the first time, he met with us. He 
confessed what a miserable sinner he had been, and 
prayed earnestly to God to have mercy on him. He 
stated that he was much relieved before he left. 
Thus, of late, at every meeting the Lord gives us 
some fresh token of his favor. 

"Sabbath, February 1. One of the most delightful 
days we have had this winter. But, from the severe 
storm of the two previous days, the snow was much 
drifted, and the road, in places, filled. But for all 
this, our congregation was much larger than usual, 
both in the forenoon and afternoon. In the morning 
I preached with an unction I have seldom felt on the 
"Immutability of Christ," from Hebrews xiii, 8. In 
the afternoon my subject was "God's Poor," from 
James ii, 5. I was amazingly blessed in trying to 
proclaim the truth. Throughout the day there was 
deep emotion evident in the congregation. 

"Before going to the house of worship, my soul 
was much drawn out in prayer for that faith by which 
I might preach w T ith success. I felt an uncommon 
struggle in prayer, and an assurance that I was heard 
and owned of God. 

"At night our room was comfortably filled for 
class meeting; and a gracious season it was. We 
had several prayers. All spoke, and in nearly every 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 329 

case a great change appears evident. Two more 
united with us. The Lord's name be glorified for 
his boundless goodness ! How truly may it be said, 
that ' the people who were not a people are become the 
people of God." 

Thus had the Lord wrought a very gracious work 
among us, and a class of some fourteen was formed. 
It was confined mostly to the Fort. The sergeant's 
quarters became a house of prayer. Here the other 
soldiers who were seriously inclined were accustomed 
to meet every morning before breakfast for prayer. 
Five of the persons thus brought in were of the 
native or mixed population. It was not for us to 
predict how far this might tend to a permanent es- 
tablishment of religious society in the place. At all 
events we felt to say that, "as long as souls are 
converted and saved we rejoice, yea, and will rejoice!" 

THE INEBRIATE, 

Toward the close of February we had extreme cold 
weather, frequent hard wind, and driving snow-storms. 
The night of the 28th had been of this character. 
About three o'clock of the same night we were awak- 
ened by a rapping at the door. It was a Garden 
River Indian, who had become intoxicated, and the 
only wonder was that he had not perished in the cold. 
He had lost his cap, was covered with snow, and was 
much chilled. I took him into the kitchen, built a 
good fire, gave him a blanket, and told him to wrap 
up and go to sleep. I left a light burning and retired 



330 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

to rest again, but I had scarcely gotten in bed before 
he began to knock at the door separating our apart- 
ments, and calling out, Nee-je, nee-je, that is, friend, 
friend. I told him he must lie down and be quiet, 
or I could not keep him. He laid him down again, 
and, for some time, sung as drunken Indians usually 
do, till at length he fell asleep. In the morning we 
gave him a warm breakfast and a hat, and sent him 
off nearly sober, and quite comfortable. He soon 
came back and returned the hat, having gotten a cap 
at one of the stores. The day had not passed before 
I saw him staggering again in the street. He was 
ten miles from home, and the following was one of 
the stormiest nights of the winter. We were appre- 
hensive that he would perish, but he reached home 
without serious injury, except that inflicted by drunk- 
enness itself — injury enough surely. Had we not 
taken him in the night before he would, in all prob- 
ability, have perished. Such are the tender mercies 
of this miserable business ! What is human life when 
offset against the cupidity of the liquor-dealer? A 
small matter surely. 

MELANCHOLY CASUALTY. 

Wednesday, 28th of April, a sad event occurred 
at the head of the Portage, connected with the launch- 
ing of the steamer Baltimore. Several persons were 
at work at the capstan, which was placed on the end 
of one of the docks. The beam by which the capstan 
was turned, by horse power, broke, and flew back 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 331 

suddenly, instantly killing two men, seriously wound- 
ing two others, slightly injuring the fifth; the sixth 
in the group, when he heard the beam crack, dropped 
instantly, and it passed over him without harm. The 
survivors all soon recovered. One of the unfortunate 
men killed was a Catholic, and was here without 
relatives. The other left a wife and five children to 
mourn his loss. He was said to be daringly wicked, 
and among his last utterances was the heaven-insult- 
ing oath. I was requested to preach the funeral of 
this man the next Sabbath, but this arrangement was 
soon after changed, and I was called on Friday, a few 
minutes before the time, and requested to preach 
immediately. So with scarcely any preparation I 
went to the school-house, which was soon thronged. 
I spoke with great plainness, about twenty-five min- 
utes, from the words, "Because there is wrath, beware 
lest He take thee away with his stroke: and then 
a great ransom shall not deliver thee." Job xxxvi, 18. 

"How shocking must thy summons be, death, 
To him that is at ease in his possessions, 
"Who, counting on long years of pleasure here, 
Is quite unfurnished for the world to come !" 



332 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

ANNUAL TOUR. 

The following record was made in my journal, 
Tuesday, May 25th: 

"I have been for some time making preparations 
to visit our missions above. The Algonquin for 
about two weeks has been advertised to go to Fond 
du Lac, and I had concluded to go on her. Satur- 
day evening she took on her last barrel of freight. 
The captain said that if the wind should be fair, of 
which he thought there was every appearance, he 
should leave the next day, Sabbath. I told him that 
he had better hold on till Monday; but that, if he 
must go, he need not expect me to accompany him, 
though it would add some hundreds of miles to my 
coasting. I told him, however, that I thought he 
would be here on Monday — that I should pray for 
head wind if he attempted to go. He said that he 
would pray for fair wind, and we w T ould see w T ho 
would be answered. 

" Sabbath proved to be a lovely day — calm nearly 
all day ; part of the time a fair breeze, but not enough 
to spread sails ; part of the day quite a breeze ahead, 
so that the captain did not move from the spot. Mon- 
day all day wind blew strong ahead. This morning 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 333 

wind fair, the captain got off, and has no doubt made 
a good run; but I am not with him. Having been so 
much longer detained than I anticipated, I can not 
visit Fond du Lac, Sandy Lake, and all the other 
places in the round, and get back for our camp meet- 
ing. I have, therefore, arranged my business with 
brother Spates at Sandy Lake by letter communica- 
tion. There is nothing of sufficient importance to 
call me to Fond du Lac, as we have no missionary 
there. I shall, therefore, the Lord willing, visit the 
missions among the miners, which are assuming prom- 
inence and importance, and the Kewawenon mission. 
In all this I believe I am directed by Providence. It 
will save the Missionary Society about seventy dol- 
lars and myself about five hundred miles of coasting ; 
will give me ample time to spend among the missions 
about the Lake, and I doubt not more good will be 
accomplished than if I had gone to Sandy Lake. It 
is also probable that by this time our General con- 
ference has set off Sandy Lake into another con- 
ference." 

The steamer Baltimore was just about to make 
her first trip up Lake Superior. On the evening 
of the 25th I went aboard, bound for Kewawenon. 
Here we found ourselves very comfortably situated. 
Our boat had excellent accommodations, and every 
thing was conducted in a quiet and orderly manner ; 
not crowded with passengers — day delightful — almost 
a dead calm. I busied myself during this pleasant 
trip in reading the doings of our General conference, 



334 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 

which I had up to the 12th inst., and in perusing 
Larrabee's Evidences of Natural and Revealed Relig- 
ion, which work I read with much interest. I could 
but contrast, thankfully, the agreeableness of this 
voyage with the rough and perilous one made over 
the same route on the Fur Trader, in 1846. At four 
o'clock, P. M., the 26th inst., we were opposite the 
Pictured Rocks. It was at this time that we had 
such a sublime view of this great natural curiosity, 
delineated in another place. 

Just after dark we reached Carp river, now Mar- 
quette, where we stopped about half an hour. Had 
just time to go ashore and see our missionary, brother 
Benson, and wife, whom I found well and in good 
spirits. 

Thursday morning, about six o'clock, we anchored 
at the mouth of Portage river, where we were de- 
tained most of the day. Just before night we reached 
the Kewawenon mission. Found all in usual health. 
Sister Barnum still lingered on the shore of time, 
to the astonishment of every body. For five or six 
years wasting disease had been feeling after her heart- 
strings, but her time had not yet come. As the 
gentle disappearing of the unclouded sun such was 
to be her exit from this world of conflict and pain.* 

Temporally things looked flourishing about the 
mission — never more so* Spiritually some of the 
old members had recently proved unfaithful to the 

* Since this she and her husband have both left the world in triumph. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 335 

trust committed to them; by falling into known and 
open sin they had brought reproach upon the cause 
of Christ. The boat also brought trouble among us 
by furnishing liquor to some Indians, who became 
intoxicated in a short time. No tongue can tell the 
evils arising from this one source at our missions. 
Their name is legion. But that the mission through 
the year had been blessed with a good degree of 
religious prosperity is evident from brother Barnum's 
report, published in the Missionary Advocate, dated 
January 1, 1852, as follows : 

"TO THE CORRESPONDING SECRETARY: 

" Dear Brother, — Again would we record the good- 
ness of God for the preservation of our lives through 
another year with thankfulness. The past quarter, 
with afflictions — an unusual amount of sickness among 
the Indians and a few deaths — we have had the Divine 
blessing, very much to our encouragement. The In- 
dians I mentioned in a former communication, who 
came among us and had the small-pox last winter, 
have again come in from the woods, accompanied 
by some of their relatives and friends. They came 
this time last fall for the avowed purpose of taking 
up their abode with us, and becoming Christians. 
They have been for several weeks listening with 
marked attention to the word, which has been 
preached, mainly, with special reference to their case. 
Now they are members of our Church. Last Sab- 
bath they came — old and young — renounced their 
23 



336 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

heathenism, and then received Christian baptism. I 
baptized twenty then, which, with two previously 
baptized, makes twenty-two the last quarter, nineteen 
of whom were from the woods. Our congregations 
are good, and our schools, both Sunday and week- 
day, though small, are larger than they were last 
year. With our troubles we will not trouble you 
further — for our blessings you will help us to praise 
the Giver. 

" Yours in the Gospel, 

"Nelson Barnum." 

The Indians referred to in brother Barnum's report 
were from Lake Vieux Desert, distant some three 
or more days' march in the wilderness from Kewa- 
wenon. Till quite recently they had adhered to their 
heathen customs and superstitions; now they were 
disposed to abandon them for the faith that is in 
Jesus. 

Saturday and Sabbath we held our quarterly meet- 
ing here — a season of some interest. Especially on 
the Sabbath there was great solemnity, and much 
deep feeling in the congregation. Our sacramental 
occasion in the afternoon was deeply solemn and im- 
pressive. The meetings throughout the day afforded 
proof that God was still with our people at Kewa- 
wenon. 

On Monday we had a very tedious council, in which 
sundry matters, important and unimportant, were con- 
sidered. But the details I pass over. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 337 

Tuesday, June 1st, I was prevented from making 
an early start for Eagle river by rain. Left about 
ten o'clock, A. M., accompanied by David King and 
N., and reached Wim-e-te-go-zhenses, or the Little 
Frenchman's, as this name imports, some seventeen 
miles distant, where we spent the night. 

Wednesday we were up at three o'clock, and in 
half an hour were again on our way. We break- 
fasted at the head of Torch Lake. Thence we walked 
nineteen miles to the Phoenix Mine, where we arrived 
at five o'clock, P. M., and were kindly entertained 
by the missionary, Rev. S. Steele. 

Thursday, 3d, left Eagle river, on the steamer Bal- 
timore, for Ontonagon, where we were anchored at 
four o'clock on Friday morning. The day was spent 
in business, making calls, etc. 

Saturday, accompanied by the missionary, Rev. E. 
H. Day, I walked over the trail to the Minnesota 
Mine, where we arrived about five o'clock, P. M. 
The trail was not so wet as the year before, but was 
bad enough at best. Sabbath I preached twice to 
the people, and administered the sacrament to two 
persons, besides the preachers. The state of religion 
at the mine was low. There were but five or six 
professors of religion, and some of them were back- 
ward in using the means of grace. 

Monday we traveled over a muddy, rugged, and 
mountainous trail, some fourteen miles, to the Trap 
Rock Mine. In our way we passed the Forest, the 
United States, the Cushman, the Plummer, and Nor- 



338 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

wich mines. Two of these had been abandoned, the 
others were encouraged by flattering prospects. At 
the Trap Rock Rev. J. Buzzo, a very intelligent local 
preacher, was agent. I preached at night to some 
fifty or sixty men — quite a company for such a wil- 
derness. 

Tuesday, 8th, after a fatiguing walk of about 
eighteen miles, over an intolerably-muddy trail, we 
were again at the mouth of the Ontonagon. Preached 
here at night. Wednesday and Thursday I was de- 
tained in waiting for a boat. 

Friday morning the Baltimore came in before we 
were up. About ten o'clock I left for Eagle river, 
where we arrived at half-past five o'clock, P. M. 
Shared again brother Steele's hospitality. 

Saturday went with brother Steele to the Cliff. Met 
at the chapel and held our quarterly conference. 
Thence went to the North American, where brother 
Steele attended to the funeral obsequies of an un- 
fortunate man, who was killed the day before by 
falling into a shaft of the South Cliff, a depth of 
some forty feet. The poor man died — without leaving 
an evidence behind of his conversion — having in Eng- 
land a wife and seven children. The funeral was 
numerously attended. 

In the evening I preached at the Cliff to a pretty 
good attendance. Sabbath morning I was taken quite 
ill with diarrhea, and felt indisposed for the labors 
of the day. A faintness came over me during the 
love-feast. I was obliged to stop in the midst of the 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 339 

opening prayer before preaching. Brother Steele 
gave out the hymn. After singing I arose, not know- 
ing whether I should be able to preach. But the 
Lord strengthened me for the work, and I was en- 
abled to speak with more than usual freedom, on the 
cross of Christ, Galatians vi, 14. But in proceeding 
to administer the sacrament I was barely able to con- 
clude the consecratory prayer, and was obliged to 
call on brother Steele to conclude the service. After 
meeting I went to the North American, where Dr. 
Senter gave me an opiate. His kind lady furnished 
me with a comfortable bed. After two or three 
hours' rest, and a cup of tea, and a little boiled rice, 
which I ate at the Doctor's, I felt much refreshed. 
With the Doctor's family I then repaired to the 
chapel for our evening meeting. A fine congrega- 
tion came out, to whom God gave me strength to 
preach, with at least usual freedom. This quarterly 
meeting was, on the whole, the best one I had wit- 
nessed on Lake Superior. When the meeting had 
closed I accompanied the family of brother Steele 
to their residence, at the Phoenix Mine, much fatigued 
of course. I never felt more fully than during this 
day, of great bodily weakness, that Christ was my 
strength. The Church was quickened by this quar- 
terly meeting, and the effect did not cease when the 
meeting closed. Reference is made to this farther on. 
Monday felt the effects of the illness of Sabbath; 
rested most of the day, waiting the return of the 
Napoleon; left on this boat in the evening for the 



340 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Saut; crossed over to Isle Royal, about fifty miles, 
during the night. Half the day Tuesday was spent at 
Rock Harbor, discharging freight. Thence went to 
Siskowit Bay, about eighteen miles west, where we 
were detained till after night. Returned to Rock 
Harbor again before morning. 

Wednesday, the 16th, we took our leave of Isle 
Royal, early in the morning, and after being in the 
fog most of the time for two days, arrived safely at 
the Saut Thursday evening. What was a little re- 
markable, we had had no rough sea from the time I 
left till my return. I was happy to find all well at 
home. 

TRIP TO CARP RIVER. 

Friday, the 25th, left the Saut in the evening on 
the propeller Manhattan, to visit the mission at Mar- 
quette. We had a pleasant and quick passage, and 
arrived Saturday at noon. Spent the afternoon in 
making calls. Preached in the evening to a pretty 
good congregation, considering that they were called 
out without any previous warning. 

Sabbath morning our love-feast was a precious 
season. An intelligent congregation assembled at 
half-past ten o'clock, A. M., to whom I proclaimed 
the counsel of God. At two o'clock, P. M., the peo- 
ple came out again — preached again, and administered 
the sacrament of the Lord's supper. Felt liberty 
both times in preaching. The congregation were not 
only very attentive to the word spoken, but several 






MISSIONARY LIFE. 341 

gave evidence of considerable emotion. We realized 
the presence of God in the breaking of bread. A 
Presbyterian minister was present who was traveling 
for the benefit of his health. He communed with us 
and aided in the services. About thirty communed. 
In the evening we had a prayer meeting, in which 
several prayed with great fervency. God was in the 
midst to bless. Brother Babb, the minister referred 
to, oifered some very appropriate remarks. Before 
the meeting closed I spoke with reference to the 
great change God had wrought about Lake Superior, 
since I had become acquainted with the country. 
" Stated that, in the fall of 1844, I had coasted along 
the shore, near the place where we were worshiping, 
with my family, on our way to Kewawenon; that, a 
short distance to the west, we were wind-bound two 
days and a half; that, at that time, no traces of civili- 
zation were to be seen where we now are; and that, 
from Saut Ste. Marie to La Pointe, there was but one 
station — Protestant — where God was statedly wor- 
shiped, in public, and that one was Kewawenon. I 
stated, also, that, in January, 1846, I passed on 
snow-shoes over the ground where we now wor- 
shiped, to visit a band of Indians at Grand Island, 
and that then there was no trace of civilization at 
Carp river. Remarked that I could never forget the 
day of my arrival at this place. I was excessively 
fatigued. My feet were badly blistered, and when I 
had reached the wigwam of Mah-je-ge-zhik, I was so 
rejoiced that tears involuntarily crowded to my eyes. 



342 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

That I was much refreshed on a repast of small po- 
tatoes and fresh venison. Now behold the change ! 
We have several congregations at Ontonagon, who 
delight to worship God. On Point Kewenaw there 
are several interesting congregations. Stated that, 
two weeks before, I had enjoyed a refreshing quar- 
terly meeting at the Cliff Mine, when we were per- 
mitted to see about fifty in the love-feast, and a large 
and respectable congregation in attendance upon 
preaching. And, with reference to Carp river, we 
could but say, 'what hath God wrought!' The 
Yankee had found his way here and begun to level 
the forest. A village had sprung up as if by magic ; 
and here the banner of the cross had been unfurled, 
and we had this day sat together in a heavenly 
place in Christ Jesus." 

This train of thought awakened grateful feelings 
in my own mind, and from the attention of the audi- 
ence, we judged that they were deeply interested in 
these buddings of hope and promise. Thus closed 
the Sabbath and our quarterly meeting, a season 
owned of God, and which will doubtless be remem- 
bered in eternity. 

Monday morning, before I was up, the Napoleon 
came up to the wharf, on her way to the Saut. I was 
thus remarkably favored, to be able to return so soon. 
I then noted in my journal: "It has seemed to me 
this whole season, as if God was leading me along in 
the way of his peculiar providence. My mind has 
seemed to be constantly staid by faith on him, and 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 343 

such an abiding sense of his presence — such tran- 
quillity of mind I have seldom felt. He has also 
made my way smooth across the great deep. Not 
the first rough sea have I had in all my journeyings 
this summer. 0, how great is his goodness! My 
soul, praise the Lord!" 

Toward evening of this day, the sky became very 
dark and threatening ; clouds flew in different direc- 
tions ; it thundered ; the heavens were now in a blaze ; 
then all was dense darkness again, and anon the light- 
ning, in a zigzag track, would part the sky. God 
" spoke in thunder and breathed in lightning." I 
stood upon the deck, and gazed as upon the Eternal, 
revealed in fire — I heard his voice in the thunder. 
In the dark wave now lit up with the lightning's 
glare — then nearly shut out from vision by the dense 
cloud which hung over us; in the vast expanse of 
waters, scarcely disturbed except by the rotary force 
of the screw by which we were propelled, leaving 
behind us a foaming wake ; overhead and all around 
were displayed the wisdom, power, and goodness of 
God, seeing which I could but adore. It rained 
through the night; but, farther than this, the dark 
clouds only threatened. We had calm sea to the 
Saut, which we reached by four o'clock the next 
morning. 

On the way I read the life of Summerfield, much 
to my edification. " Wonderful man !" as I then ex- 
claimed. "How meek, how humble, how much like 

the beloved disciple! How much did he commune 

29 



344 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

with God ! What a career of usefulness did he run ! 
But how soon was he taken from the Church ! Surely 
he lived a long life in a few years; gathered many 
laurels, all of which he hung upon the cross of Christ; 
and after having suffered, as well as done the will of 
God, he died in peace, and in hope of a glorious 
immortality. for a measure of the flame by which 
he was consumed!" 

The following Sabbath, being the Fourth of July, 
I had the privilege of delivering a national discourse 
to a large audience for the place, who heard atten- 
tively the word addressed to them, founded on Psalm 
cxlvii, 20: "He hath not dealt so with any nation" 
In this I endeavored to delineate some of the strik- 
ing evidences of the guiding hand of Providence, in 
the birth and progress of our nation, as clearly trace- 
able in the pages of her history. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 345 



CHAPTER XXV. 

LAKE SUPERIOR INDIAN CAMP MEETING. 

On the 12th of July we had quite an arrival at our 
place, of Indians and ministerial brethren from Can- 
ada, to unite with us in a camp meeting to be held at 
White Fish Point, about fifty miles distant, on the 
shore of Lake Superior. Most of the next day was 
spent in procuring supplies and arranging prelimina- 
ries. We arrived at the encampment early on Wed- 
nesday morning the 14th, a day in advance of the 
time, and were happy to find several tents already on 
the ground, among which were those of Rev. E. 
Steele and Rev. P. Marksman, from Naomikong, 
whose families were with them. 

The following account of this camp meeting, with 
slight additions from my journal, was published in the 
Christian Advocate and Journal, and in the Mission- 
ary Advocate. It is dated Saut Ste. Marie, Michi- 
gan, 27th July, 1852 : 

"TO THE CORRESPONDING SECRETARY: 

" Rev. and Dear Brother, — In my last I apprised 
you of our intention to hold a camp meeting at White 
Fish Point, Lake Superior, to commence on the 15th 
instant. As this is the first thing of the kind, per- 



346 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

haps, ever held north of Lower Michigan, in the 
vicinity of the Great Lakes, and this is certainly the 
case so far as Lake Superior is concerned, it may be 
acceptable to the friends of missions to learn the 
result. 

"It was a union meeting. Rev. Mr. M'Dougall, 
from Garden river, Canada, united with us, and 
brought with him forty Indians, from his mission. 

" Through his influence we were favored with other 
very valuable help from Canada, for which we can not 
in too strong terms express our sense of gratitude. 
Their labors were greatly blessed to the good of our 
people. These were — 

"Hev. L. Warner, chairman of the Barrie district, 
Canada West, a large and laborious mission district, 
including eighteen stations. Mr. Warner is a gentle- 
man of a large robust frame, a broad and full English 
face, the very picture of perfect health. From the 
cast of his cranium a stranger would award to him a 
high degree of intellectual prominence. There is in 
his carriage an air of hauteur, but this is only in ap- 
pearance. If the discourses he preached while among 
us were a fair specimen, he ranks considerably above 
mediocrity as a preacher. They were excellent, not 
as specimens of pulpit oratory in the popular sense, 
but as clear, full, Scriptural exhibitions of Gospel 
truth, practically applied to the hearers, and accom- 
panied with the unction and power of the Holy Ghost. 
Blessed with uncommon strength of lungs and great 
compass of voice, he made the encampment resound 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 347 

with his thundering appeals to the hearts of sinners. 
Nor was he any where more at home, or more active, 
than in the prayer meeting. This last remark is true 
of all our English brethren who were with us. While 
in their sermons they cast into the deep the Gospel 
net, by the fervency of their prayers they helped to 
draw it ashore, and gather up the fishes. 

"But much as we prized the services of Mr. War- 
ner, we were, if possible, still more rejoiced to have 
with us the experienced, venerable, and much-beloved 
Indian preacher, Rev. Peter Jones, whose praise is 
in all the Churches. . His dignified appearance, holy 
walk and conversation, the sweetness of his spirit, 
the holy fervor of his soul, and the persuasive elo- 
quence with which he preached Jesus and the resur- 
rection, won the hearts and affections of all on the 
ground. We esteemed him not only as a brother 
beloved, but were constantly reminded by his deport- 
ment of some of our venerable bishops — an office 
which, de facto, he fills among his Indian brethren, 
though untitled and not in the line of the woidd-be 
succession. Long may he yet live to bless the 
Church! And may his crown in heaven be filled 
with stars, as seals of his ministry on earth ! 

"Next we had with us Rev. Mr. Sallows, lately 
stationed at the Bruce Mine — a man of a delicate 
constitution, of fair preaching abilities, and an ardent 
devotion to the interests of his Master's kingdom. 
These were our visitors from abroad. 

"Rev., Mr. M'Dougall, who is our neighbor, we 



348 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

6 esteem very highly for his work's sake,' as a devoted, 
untiring, and successful missionary. And his assist- 
ant, Rev. brother Blaker, is a good helper. 

" As to the preachers on our own side, I will only 
say, that, ' by the grace of God, we are what we are.' 

"We had, in all, nine preachers, and Jesus in the 
midst. We had throughout the meeting a demonstra- 
tion that Methodism is one, and Methodist preachers 
are one, the world over. 

"Commencement. — As the missionaries and a goodly 
number of Indians were on the ground on the 14th 
inst., we commenced on the afternoon of that day, 
instead of the next, the time appointed. We had, 
in all, twenty tents on the ground, two of which were 
connected with our mission — one for the preachers, 
and the other, a large tent, occupied by Rev. E. 
Steele's family from Naomikong, where, in connec- 
tion with brother M'Dougall's tent, the kind sis- 
ters, with much hospitality, ministered to our wants. 
About two hundred Indians attended the meeting; 
not as many as we had expected; many were provi- 
dentially hindered. There were four tents from Ke- 
wawenon, a distance of two hundred miles. 

"Divine blessing. — From first to last we were con- 
strained to own the hand of a kind Providence. We 
were much blessed in getting to and from the ground. 
We were remarkably preserved from sickness, though 
we had no small ground to fear that the small-pox 
might make its appearance among the Indians, as 
some had been exposed. Some from Garden river, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 349 

after having come as far as the Saut, returned home 
again for fear of this. We were favored with ex- 
cellent weather, and with no disturbance from any 
source. There was not a dog to move his tongue 
against us. A more orderly camp meeting was prob- 
ably never held. The Indians who had been on the 
ground before us, fishing, caught abundance of fish, 
and came and threw them on the shore for common 
use; so that, with the bread we took from home, we 
had a good supply of the same food to eat on which 
Christ fed the hungry multitudes. And the best of 
all is, we were fed spiritually; sinners were power- 
fully converted, backsliders reclaimed, the Church 
greatly quickened, and God's name glorified, in the 
salvation of souls. Under the very first sermon a 
shower of melting mercy was poured down upon us, 
while brother Jones, who preached, gave us an ac- 
count of the work of God among the Indians in 
Canada, and then related his own Christian experience. 
''-The meeting a novelty to the Indians. — But, though 
an unction and power attended the word preached, it 
was with some difficulty that the Indians were led to 
drink into the camp-meeting spirit. All was new. 
They had only heard about these meetings. But at 
last, en masse, they threw off the shackles. With 
the mighty weapon of prayer they besieged the 
eternal throne. In the hand of omnipotent faith it 
became the hey to unlock the door of mercy and 
salvation, and the healing stream flowed plenteously 
all around. There was seen the wounded penitent, 



350 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

whose conscience had been transfixed by the arrow 
from Jehovah's quiver, crying for mercy. There lay 
prostrate the soul, smitten to earth, under the mighty 
power of God. There was seen the prodigal return- 
ing again to his father's house. Mingled with the 
cries and groans of penitents were heard the shouts 
and praises of souls redeemed and saved. Parents 
were seen bending over their weeping children, to 
point them to Jesus, and children were seen weeping 
and praying over unconverted parents ; brother inter- 
ceded in behalf of brother, and sister in behalf of 
sister. Here was a struggle which, to a thoughtless 
world, might have appeared like disorder. But it 
was with each a struggle for salvation, and, in the 
view of heaven, presented a scene of greater moral 
sublimity than all the boasted pageantry of earth. 
* There is joy in heaven among the angels of God' 
when sinners repent. We do not know how many 
were converted; we think at least thirty, besides 
those reclaimed. And among those converted it was 
matter of rejoicing to see an old heathen woman, 
perhaps eighty years old, the mother of David King, 
chief, from Kewawenon. She, with several others, 
infants and adults, was baptized in the name of the 
holy Trinity. About thirty united with the Church, 
to be enrolled at their respective residences. We 
think there are others who will unite at their homes. 
"Marriage. — A wedding took place on Sabbath 
evening in the altar. The couple were from Garden 
river. They appeared very young, and the mother 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 351 

held in her arms a sprightly infant. Their mis- 
sionary held the child in his arms, while brother 
Jones performed the solemn service, after which the 
child and its mother were dedicated to God in bap- 
tism. One of our clerical friends present, not under- 
standing much Indian, and supposing the whole to 
be a baptismal ceremony, and noticing that the offi- 
ciating minister paid almost exclusive attention to 
this couple, to the neglect of some candidates for 
baptism standing near, exclaimed, 'Brother Jones, 
you have forgot them/ the persons above alluded to. 
Who ever witnessed such a scene before ! 

"Missionary meeting. — Saturday afternoon we had 
a deeply-interesting missionary meeting. An Indian 
brother — Rev. Mr. Blaker — was called to the chair, 
and, after a pithy opening speech, presided with much 
dignity. Short speeches were made by several min- 
isters and Indians, and a very cheering missionary 
spirit pervaded the meeting. As time had advanced, 
and much remained to be done preparatory to the 
holy Sabbath, no collection was taken up on the 
spot. But this was done privately, by brother Blaker 
among the Indians from Canada, and by brother 
Marksman among our own. The result was an- 
nounced on the Sabbath, which proved good, for 
our people pledged and paid over forty dollars ; all 
of which we hope to have ready by conference. The 
Indians from Canada contributed liberally, according 
to their numbers — over thirteen dollars, I think. On 
account of the poverty of our Indians, we have made 



352 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF' 

no attempt of this kind before; but we judged that 
the time had come to inculcate more fully the truth 
that ' it is more blessed to give than to receive.' , An 
Indian from Kewawenon gave three dollars in money; 
and a pious widow came into our tent, and said that 
she had not much to give, but left, as a testimonial 
of her love to the cause, fifty-six cents. The widow's 
mite will have its reward. 

" The love-feast and sacrament of the Lord's sup- 
per. — We spent the Sabbath till afternoon in these 
delightful exercises. Thirty-three persons spoke of 
the dealings of God with their souls. While so doing 
our hearts were strangely warmed with God's love. 
The day was beautifully clear; the very atmosphere 
seemed benignant with the smile of heaven. The 
slight rustling among the forest pines was only in- 
dicative of the heavenly zephyrs which were fanning 
our spirits. The bright sun reminded us how brightly 
the Sun of righteousness was shining into our hearts. 
The surrounding stillness seemed to say that the dove 
of mercy was poised over the congregation, to wit- 
ness the confession of sinners saved. Angels, with 
intense interest, were gazing upon the scene. All 
things conspired to say, \ How dreadful is this place ! 
This is the house of God, and this is the gate of 
heaven.' Many who would gladly have spoken could 
not for want of time. At the sacrament, which im- 
mediately followed, seventy-nine persons communed. 
Many will in heaven, we trust, remember this blessed 
season. At the risk of extending this sketch, I copy 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 353 

the testimony of several of our Indian brethren given 
in the love-feast. I am enabled to do this through 
the kindness of Rev. Peter Jones, who interpreted 
what they said. There are some whose remarks we 
did not get; and of others, only a part was obtained: 

"Rev. P. Marksman said: 'I will tell a little what 
God has done for my soul. I am happy in my heart. 
I love God and my brethren. I desire my Indian 
brethren to be converted. The day is clear.* I 
know that trials are ahead, but I will overcome all 
through Christ. I hope to receive a crown of glory. 
It is a high day to us all. May God in Christ bring 
us all to meet in heaven !' 

" Rev. Mr. Rlaker, from Garden river, said : ' It 
is seven years since my father died, who exhorted 
me, on his death-bed, to serve God. Joseph Skunk 
was the means of my conversion, five years ago. I 
will fight my passage through till death/ 

"Rev. Joseph Taunchey said: 'The sun shines in 
my heart. I am in poor health. Am resolved to 
serve God. I was rejoiced to see some converted 
to God last night.' 

" Thomas Nah-ben-a-osh said : 6 1 am young.f I 
gave my heart to God while young. I have passed 
through many trials. Many of my relatives have 
gone to heaven. I hope to meet all in glory. I 
desire the prayers of all God's people." 



* He meant spiritually as well as literally. 

+ He is, doubtless, over thirty years of age, but ho felt young. 



354 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

" Pi-ah-be-dah-sing, one of the chiefs from Garden 
river, said: 'I would be glad if the weather — sun 
of the Great Spirit — would stop to allow the meeting 
to continue longer. I am thankful for the labors 
of brother M'Dougall. I am very happy in my heart. 
I know that God has changed my heart/ 

"John Ogishta, once a boarding-scholar at our 
mission, "said: < Since I heard brother Pitezel I have 
been trying to serve God. I was converted last 
spring, in the sugar-bush, under brother Marksman's 
preaching.' 

" Ah-be-tah-ge-zhik said: <I was converted to God, 
in the sugar-bush, last spring — same time as the one 
above. I was very happy. I long for the conversion 
of my relatives. I am very happy now, and ever 
since I came here.' 

" G. Bedell, from Kewawenon, said: 'I think I 
have just come to life. I am very happy. Last 
night, while praying for sinners, it was like heaven 
on earth. The singing was heavenly. I feel as if 
I must go and tell all the Indians how good Jesus is.' 

"Johnson S "ky said: 'I feel that I must give thanks 
to God. Seven years since I was told that I was 
a sinner. I felt sick in my heart and prayed. By 
and by my wife left me, and, on her dying bed, 
exhorted me to serve God. When I heard last win- 
ter that this camp meeting was going to be held, I 
was glad. I have been greatly blessed since I came 
here.' 

"Moses O-mon-o-mon-ee said: <I have been a stum- 



MISSIONAEY LIFE. 355 

bling Christian; I rose up, and then fell; I found 
that I was not soundly converted. But since I came 
here my soul has been blessed, and now the sun 
shines very bright and clear.' 

" Mother Waishkee said : 'I am very happy. One 
of my sons died, and on his death-bed exhorted me 
to be faithful. I am glad that I am here. I know 
that God loves me. I am thankful to see my chil- 
dren turning to God. I hope to meet my brethren 
and sisters in heaven.' 

"Ruth Nah-ben-a-osh said: 'I am glad in my heart. 
I am glad to feast with my brethren. Religion is 
very good for me. I will try to meet all in heaven.' 

"Sarah Pwaun said: 'I feel very small in my 
heart. By faith I see my children in heaven, who 
exhorted me to be faithful. I often shed tears of 
joy. I am very happy now, and want the prayers 
of the brethren.' 

"David King, chief, from Kewawenon, said: 'It 
has been ten years since I began to pray. I am very 
glad to be here to unite with the people of God in 
this feast. I am thankful that I have heard the words 
of the Great Spirit which were brought to me from 
the east.' 

"Adam Ah-nun-goo, from Lake Vieux Desert, con- 
verted from heathenism last winter, at Kewawenon, 
said: <I feel the good feeling in my heart. As the 
sun now shines so does the heavenly sun now shine 
in my heart. I feel as if I could now arise and go 
to my Father.' 



356 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

"Nancy Asher said that she was happy in the 
Lord. 

" William Pwaun, one of the chiefs from. Naomi- 
kong, said: ' About ten years ago John Kah-beege 
came here. I then began to pray. I was converted 
in the woods when alone. I was very happy all the 
night. I could not sleep, I was so happy. When 
the morning came I felt as if a host of angels were 
around me. I looked up to heaven and saw, by faith, 
the glory of heaven. I went and told my family 
what God had done for my soul.' 

"Metash, from Garden river, said: 'I have Jesus 
for my sun.' 

" Louis Waishkee, chief, from Waishkees Bay, said: 
' I have been taught in all the arts of the old Indian 
ways ; but I have cast them all away. Religion grows 
better and better.' 

" Henri/ KaJcakoons said : 'lam well known by my 
Indian brethren, and what I have been — a great sin- 
ner. I am very poor.' This is all I got of what 
he said, though he was evidently much blessed. 

"Isaac KaJcakoons, who had apparently been a long 
time waiting for an opportunity to speak, said: "I 
know that my mind centers on Christ. It goes right 
to God; for this reason I am very thankful.' 

" Ogishta, chief, from Garden river, arose and 
stood upon a bench in the altar, and said: 'I put 
myself in a conspicuous place, that you may look at 
a poor Indian who has a very heavy load. I want 
to tell what is the state of my poor body and heart. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 357 

I am almost fifty years old. I have seen a good deal 
of earthly pleasure. And these things now make 
me cry. Nothing formerly could make me cry, only 
when my children were called away from me. I have 
lost several. My eyes have often wept; I have lost 
my brothers and sisters; I have seen them die. Now 
since I have come here I rejoice to hear the words 
that I have heard, and to see what I have seen. I 
am glad that brother M'Dougall was determined to 
bring me along. About twenty years ago I heard 
about the Great Spirit. Rev. Mr. M'Murray — of the 
Protestant Episcopal Church — continued with us about 
six years. I then exhorted the Indiaus to become 
Christians. Metash joined in with me. But I found 
that I was only deceiving myself. Now I have found 
out what the true religion is. My eyes weep and 
my heart shakes. When I lost my children I felt 
very sorry. I was very anxious that they should 
all do well. When I was young I was accustomed 
to fast, and to blacken my face with charcoal. Some 
years ago I gave my son John to the mission school — 
at Saut Ste. Marie. He did not do right when he 
ran away from the school; but now he is weeping 
on account of the goodness of God. I wish him to 
be useful. When I heard of the fast* I set apart 
the whole day, that my soul might he fed. I desire 



* Saturday, till afternoon, was set apart for fasting and prayer. Ogishta 
did not break his fast till Sunday evening ! and then was urged to eat ! 
Christian, here learn self-denial. The body was unfed for two days, 
" that the soul might be fed." 



358 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

to walk with my brethren, and go on with them in 
the good way, and met them in heaven.' 

" Close. — The camp meeting — formally — closed on 
Monday afternoon. A sermon was preached by 
brother Jones, and we then marched around the 
ground and sung, while each gave to the other the 
hand in affectionate farewell; but, in truth, though 
most orderly, it was the driest farewell I ever wit- 
nessed. The wind was ahead, and, much as our 
brethren from abroad wanted to leave the ground 
that day, the Indians were sagacious enough to know 
that this was out of the question; they, therefore, 
rather smiled than wept, at being so hoaxed. 

"Well, camp meeting was now over, but we were 
all as firmly fixed as ever. Something must be done. 
The first thing we knew the Indians were collecting 
about the stand, and we soon discovered that the rite 
of Indian christening was about to be performed. 

[In the published account of this meeting I did 
not give the particulars of this naming process. Its 
novelty was interesting to us, and may be equally so 
to the reader, and is, therefore, here briefly described. 

The chief, from Garden river, made an opening 
speech, in which he mentioned a the benefits which 
the Indians had received from the labors of the min- 
isters, and that they wished to remember them, but 
they had names that it was difficult for them to 
speak. He was going to give Mr. Warner a name 
that any child could understand." He then named 
him so that all could hear — " Shing-wauk" the "Pine- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 359 

Tree" by the way, the name of the aged Garden 
river chief, O-gish-ta's father. He then said that, 
" when Shing-wauk should come among them the next 
year, and should lift up his voice, they must all 
gather around him as chickens around an old hen;" 
to which all heartily responded, u Saiah!" 

They next named the writer through Wm. Pwaun, 
who acted as speaker. The name " Wa-zah-wa7i-wa- 
doong" the " Yellow Beard" is an old family name, 
and was the name of one of the best Indians ever 
connected with the Te-quah-me-nah band, who died a 
few years since, in the faith of the Christian, lamented 
by all who knew him. I was then addressed as a 
brother by the acting chief, Pwaun. 

Rev. E. Steele was next named, " I-ah-be-wa-dic" 
which signifies " Male- Elk." He was warmly greeted 
afterward, as were the rest, as a brother now adopted 
by the Indians. 

The other ministerial brethren having had this 
honor conferred on them before, were now left out of 
the list. Thus closed this novel performance.] 

"At night we had a famous temperance meeting. 

This, we hope, in its future bearing upon the Indians, 

will prove as beneficial as any meeting we had. 

Louis Waishkee, an Indian chief, made us a dignified 

president. The meeting was addressed by several 

speakers. Marked attention was paid to all that was 

said. Meanwhile a pledge of total abstinence was 

presented, and one hundred and five persons signed — 

most of the Indians then on the ground. 
30 



360 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

" Tuesday morning, after breakfast, we left the en- 
campment, in a large batteau, with the Indians from 
Garden river, and the preachers from Canada, amidst 
abundant cheers, the firing of guns, etc. 

"Now, my dear brother, I have given you a hastily- 
written account of this first, and, to us, interesting, 
Lake Superior camp meeting. You can only get a 
glimpse through this imperfect sketch. But I hope 
that at least it will be seen and felt, that true religion 
is the same, 

* In the void waste as in the city full f 

the same in the heart of a poor northern Indian as 
in the heart of an Anglo-Saxon; that the name of 
Jesus is that which charms the fears and soothes the 
sorrows of the heathen; and that, 

'Where He vital breathes there must be joy/ 

" That souls have been saved and God glorified, is 
to us cause of rejoicing; 'yea, and we will rejoice.' 
Pray for our continued prosperity. 

"Affectionately yours, J. H. Pitezel." 

After Rev. Peter Jones returned home, he wrote a 
very interesting account of his missionary tour to 
Lakes Huron and Superior, which was published in 
the Christian Guardian, Toronto, in which our camp 
meeting was described quite minutely. Mr. Jones's 
complete acquaintance with the Ojibwa, enabled him 
to seize upon the peculiar expression of the language, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 361 

so as to present it with great force. I can not bet- 
ter close this chapter than by giving a brief extract 
from this account. It thus describes our temperance 
meeting: 

"The wind being contrary, we were obliged to 
tarry on the ground another night. In the evening 
we held a temperance meeting. Chief Waubojeig 
Washkee was called to the chair, and made a short 
speech, after which the following brethren addressed 
the meeting: Warner, Pitezel, Steele, Gregory, B. 
Shing-wauk and myself. The usual pledge was then 
readily signed by one hundred and five Indians. 
Chief Ogestaih was then requested to proclaim the 
number who had given their names to the cause of 
temperance, which he did in a masterly manner, caus- 
ing his powerful voice to resound through the woods 
and along the shore of the Lake to a great distance. 
He rose up and said, 'Hear me, hear me, Ogestaih 
has been chosen to proclaim the result of this meet- 
ing; the number of Indians who now say that they 
will never again drink the fire-water, is one hundred 
and five. These one hundred and five Indians now 
say, that there shall be no more deaths by drowning 
in the water — no more burning to death — no more 
quarreling nor fighting — no more bruised eyes — no 
more dragging the wife by the hair of her head — no 
more murders — and you who are husbands now say, 
you will no more be jealous of your wives, and you 
wives say you will be no more jealous of your hus- 
bands — and last of all, Ogestaih says, that he also 



362 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

will no more be jealous of his wife. This is all I 
have to say.' At the conclusion of each sentence, 
the usual Indian exclamation of l Kaih } '* was shouted 
from many voices throughout the camp-ground." 



* This is evidently a misprint — it should be ' Haiah.' 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 363 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

A GENERAL VIEW OF LAKE SUPERIOR MISSIONS. 

A full account has before been given of the re- 
vival which was in progress at the village of the Ste. 
Marie, during the winter. Toward the close of the 
summer we had to record with pain that some, who 
gave promise of better things, measured their steps 
back again to the world; but most of the converts 
went on their way rejoicing. A message was received 
at the Fort from the War Department, by which the 
troops were ordered to California. This broke in 
upon our ranks. Sergeant M. and his family, of 
whom such particular mention has been made, re- 
ceived an honorable discharge from the army. I 
gave them certificates of their standing in the Church, 
which they took with them into Wisconsin, where 
they located, and again united with the Church. In 
the fall I had the privilege of seeing the minister 
at the Wisconsin conference who received them into 
the Church. After these removals we had left eight 
members, six of whom were on probation. We con- 
tinued to have an intelligent and interesting con- 
gregation to attend upon the preached word, and had 
reason to believe that, though much of the seed sown 
fell upon a floating community, it was not all lost. 



364 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Our Sunday school was kept up with a good degree 
of interest. 

Naomikong. — The signs of progress were very en- 
couraging at this Indian station most of the year. 
A letter from Rev. E. Steele, of December 6th, 
speaks on this wise: "Our congregations are large 
considering the population. The house is frequently 
crowded to overflowing. The Indians are attentive 
to the preached word. They all, saint and sinner, 
male and female, old and young, kneel in time of 
prayer. We have had some interesting meetings, in 
which the presence of Christ was realized among his 
people." 

In the following, which I take from my report, 
published in the Annual Report of the Missionary 
Society for 1852, we have the ripe Gospel fruit in 
death of the seed which was sown in life : 

"Since the last report two members have died — 
one, a young man, whose name was Francis Bangs.* 
He not only died in great peace, but in the triumphs 
of faith, praising God, and exhorting all to meet him 
in heaven. The other was a man somewhat advanced 
in life. His name was Henry O-ge-mah-be-nas, which 
signifies king of birds. He embraced Christianity 
about two years since, and we trust he now rests in 
Abraham's bosom. There is now a sister in the last 
stages of consumption, and, from all appearance, near 



*"See a tribute to the memory of this young man, by Rev. S. Steele, in 
the 'Ladies' Repository for January, 1852/ under ' The Dying Indian,'" 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 365 

the spirit-world. She is resigned — willing to die — 
says Christ is precious, and believes she shall go to 
heaven." The sister has since died, leaving a family 
of nine children with her husband to mourn their loss. 

Brother Steele, in a letter dated January 30th, 
1852, gives an account of a pagan woman who has 
recently embraced the Gospel. I think it well worthy 
a place in a missionary report. In a conversation 
with brother Marksman, she said, "'My husband, 
who is a pagan, went to Grand Island to live last fall. 
I told him I would not go, but stay at Naomikong 
with my daughter, that I might have an opportunity 
to hear the word of the Lord preached. And now I 
can understand the preached word better than ever 
before. The light has broken into my mind gradually. 
Some time since I was very sick — thought I should 
die — could not bear the thought of dying and being 
buried as a heathen, but felt a strong desire to die 
and be buried in a Christian manner. When I felt 
unhappy in my heart I went and prayed, and my 
mind became calm and happy; and for some time past 
I have felt a desire to unite with this people — Meth- 
odists — but last Sabbath evening I became more con- 
vinced of my duty than ever before. I now present 
myself. I am now willing to be baptized.' 

" The next Sabbath she was baptized, and received 
into the Church on probation." 

I copy the following from the same letter : 

"Sabbath evening, the 25th instant, after a warm 
exhortation, and an invitation, seven kneeled at the 



366 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

altar of prayer, and cried aloud for mercy. Praise 
God! Lord, carry on thy blessed work! 

" Tuesday evening, January 27th, we had meeting 
again, and twelve came forward as seekers of religion, 
among them three of the mission boys. A young 
woman spoke. She said, ' The Lord blessed me last 
Sabbath evening when I came forward for prayers, 
and I have been happy ever since; and, by the grace 
of God assisting me, I will live faithful till death.' 

"Thursday evening, January 29th, we assembled 
for our usual prayer meeting, and ten came forward 
for prayers. One young man was converted. He 
arose and said, * While I was wrestling in prayer with 
God, I felt joy in my heart, and my heart arose up 
to meet God. And now I know that Jesus is pre- 
cious to my soul.' 

"We hope that what we have seen is but the drop- 
ping from the cloud which precedes the sweeping 
shower. pray for us, that God may bring all these 
children of the forest to a knowledge of his sal- 
vation." 

We have lost and gained some members, so that 
the statistics are about the same as before reported — 
sixty-three — of whom four are whites and eighteen 
on probation. The day school numbers twenty-eight 
scholars, eight of whom are girls. They are reported 
as progressing well in their studies. The Sabbath 
school is also doing well. The children are succeed- 
ing well in committing Scripture to memory; seven-i 
teen children in six weeks had recited four hundred 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 367 

and seventy-six verses. This seems small to such as 
are accustomed to the recitations of white children; 
but let white children commit Scripture to memory in 
Indian, then compare them with Indian beginners. 
The school is comprised of twenty-one scholars, and 
four officers and teachers. 

Four children board in the mission family; and, 
since the death of his sister, brother Marksman has 
taken into his family two of her children. 

The property of the station, including land pur- 
chased, mission-house, school-house, etc., is estimated 
at four hundred dollars. 

Within one year these Indians had built eight or 
ten comfortable log-houses. They were gradually 
laying aside the chase and turning their attention to 
agriculture and other industrial pursuits. From their 
proximity to the Lake, and their superior skill as 
fishermen, fishing must always be one of the pur- 
suits of this people, and one which, if properly fol- 
lowed, may be made lucrative. It must be to them 
what the farm and the trade is to many others. Our 
camp meeting was made a great blessing to this sta- 
tion. The Indians spent much of the summer at 
White Fish Point, engaged in fishing. They re- 
mained longer than they would have done on account 
of the small-pox which broke out at the Saut, and 
had been conveyed to the saw-mill, within six miles 
of the mission. Though some of them had been ex- 
posed to this dreadful scourge, up to the time of my 

latest intelligence, none of them had taken it. One 

31 



368 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

woman had the varioloid. We see and own in this 
the hand of Providence. 

Keivawenon. — The following is from my report sent 
to the Corresponding Secretary, dated Aug. 23, 1852: 

"This mission has shared its usual prosperity. 
During the year, several heathen Indians luxve be- 
come the subjects of converting grace. As an evi- 
dence of the genuineness of their faith, they brought 
their bad medicines, and various instruments of sor- 
cery and idolatry, and delivered them to the mis- 
sionary, who has them now in his possession. These 
Indians are continuing to improve in civilization, and 
we look forward to the time when they shall stand 
forth — not white men, but Indians renovated and 
saved — elevated far above what they once were phys- 
ically, intellectually, in their moral and social condi- 
tion. According to the latest account I have re- 
ceived, the Church numbers fifty-three members, of 
whom thirteen are on probation. 

" The day school has numbered eighteen male and 
nine female scholars — average attendance, thirteen. 
The children have been instructed by brother Bar- 
num, and are reported as progressing in their studies. 

"There is one Sabbath school, six officers and 
teachers, thirty-eight scholars, and one hundred vol- 
umes in library, a good supply of primers, tracts, 
question books, hymn-books and Testaments. If suf- 
fered to remain, and properly encouraged by the 
Government, I think these Indians must continue 
to improve." 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 369 

Eagle River Mission. — This was a laborious field, 
embracing work enough for two men. It comprised 
most of the mining stations on Point Kewenaw, 
which were visited, as far as possible, by the mission- 
ary. Rev. S. Steele was warmly received by the peo- 
ple, and well sustained in his efforts to build up the 
cause of Christ. This was the most prosperous year 
since the mission commenced. The following state- 
ment from my report of July 7th, including a post- 
script, will show the condition of this charge : 

"Eagle River. — The labors of Rev. S. Steele have 
been blessed in the conversion of souls and the build- 
ing up of the Church. The people have done nobly 
in defraying the expenses of the mission. They have 
raised seventy -five dollars, missionary money, for the 
purpose of commencing a German mission among 
them. This is a mission evidently demanded. The 
German population is more numerous than any other, 
and the labors of a good German missionary would 
tend greatly to advance the cause of religion about 
the Lake. I hope the Missionary Society will give 
us encouragement in this matter, and that the object 
may be brought about at our next conference. The 
Church numbers fifty members and fifteen probation- 
ers; the Sabbath school, fifteen officers and teachers, 
sixty-five scholars, and one hundred and fifty volumes 
in library. 

" P. S. I have just received a letter from Rev. S. 
Steele, at Eagle river, in which he says : 'lam happy 



370 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

to inform you that the work of grace, which has been 
steadily increasing at the Cliff Mine for months, was 
quickened by our quarterly meeting exercises. On 
the following Sabbath evening, under the preaching 
of the word, there was a general weeping all over 
the house, and the house was literally jammed to 
overflowing; several cried aloud for mercy, and one 
professed conversion at the time. Prayer meetings 
have been held nearly every night during the week, 
and several are converted. Last Sabbath I was at 
the north-west, and there is an unusual manifestation 
of religious feeling in that location.' 

"Let not the friends of missions despair. We shall 
yet gather a harvest of souls on the shores of the 
Great Lake. J. H. P." 

Ontonagon. — The society connected with this mis- 
sion is fluctuating. It numbers about twenty-five 
members. No special outpouring of the Spirit has 
been witnessed on the mission; and yet the labors 
of the missionary, Rev. E. H. Day, which have been 
arduous, have been every-where encouraged by the 
people. He has been well sustained in his work. 
The people there will want next year, it is thought, 
three men, instead of one; two, at any rate. Brother 
Day reports three Sunday schools, six officers an$ 
teachers, fifty scholars, and two hundred volumes in 
library. 

Carp River. — This was the first year of sending 
a missionary to this station. Here are the great iron 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 371 

mines of Lake Superior. Rev. William Benson was 
appointed to this charge, and went directly on with 
his family. But the failure in getting up supplies 
had reduced the people to great straits. Several 
persons left, and went through to Bay de Noquette 
for fear of starvation. One company sent most of 
their horses through for want of feed. Brother Ben- 
son had been advised to leave, and had about con- 
cluded so to do, but determined finally to stay. He 
says that, "after doing so, one man came and said 
I need take no thought; he had enough for me." 
The letter bringing this intelligence was dated No- 
vember 19th. After that, very late in the season, 
providentially, abundant supplies were sent to Carp 
river. Our missionary thought that he found Meth- 
odists here of the " old stamp," all of whom seemed 
disposed to aid in advancing the cause. 

Another call. — "Why don't conference send us a 
minister?" Brother Benson took passage on the 
Napoleon in moving from Eagle river to Carp river. 
The boat touched at Isle Royal. Several of the 
miners situated on this lonely spot met him, and 
asked the question at the head of this. Comment 
is needless. Toward the close of the year the society 
numbered rising of forty members, including fifteen 
probationers. A very encouraging degree of success 
had attended the labors of brother Benson. Be- 
tween the Lake shore and Bay de Noquette there 
were about five hundred lumbermen, whom he had 
visited twice during the winter. They were calling 



372 



LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 



loudly for help. A missionary was greatly needed 
among them. Thus it is seen that the work was 
gradually enlarging on all sides. Carp River re- 
ported one Sunday school, eight officers and teachers, 
thirty scholars, and two hundred and fifty volumes in 
library. 

STATISTICS. 







jj 


12 
11 
15 
15 

53 


DAY SCHOOLS. 


SUNDAY SCHOOLS. 


1 

3 

O 
CO 

1 


> 


13 
1 


Q 

5 


MISSIONS. 






co 

S 

1 
1 

2 


r 3 

19 
18 

37 


"9 
3 

CO 

o_ 

8 
9 

17 


CO 

1 

1 
1 
1 

2 
3 
1 

9 


3 

s. 
H 

p 




* 


< 


I 




60 
6 

47 
3 
51 
25 
29 


4 
5 
6 

J5 

6 
8 

"~ 
44 


34 

20 
45 

65 
50 
30 

244 


175 
100 

150 
200 
250 

875 




2 












Eagle River — Whites 

Ontonagon — Whites 

Carp River — Whites 




$17 00 


4 






IS 




Total 


2! 


H 


$17 00 


2 



P. S. These statistics will be found to differ slightly from the estimate 
made in the written report. These last have been corrected by the 
returns from the missionaries, presented at the close of the conference 
year. 

In the above report it will be seen that Fond dn Lac and Sandy Lake 
are not enumerated. The Sandy Lake mission, by the decision of the 
General conference which sat in May of this year, fell into the Wisconsin 
conference. Fond du Lac was unavoidably left unsupplied, and hence no 
report was made. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 



373 



STATISTICS 

OF THE INDIAN MISSION DISTRICT, EMBRACING THE 
QUADRENNIAL TERM JUST CLOSING. 



1849 Indians 
| Whites 

1850 Indians 
| Whites 

1851 1 Indians 
I Whites 

1852 Indians 
! Whites 



2130 



SUNDAY SCHOOLS. 



18 






141 



490 



560 
1,210 



$31 80 



12 



10 26 38 17 



601 65 00 18 



$50 54 
148 85 



106 81 



157 25 



In this statistical account I have followed the 
printed Minutes of the Michigan conference, except 
in the membership of Carp Kiver, for 1852. An 
error was here committed, probably typographical, 
in printing "9" for "29," as found in the table con- 
nected with my report of August 23d, as given 
above. 

In the year 1848 the Indian membership for the 
district, including probationers, was one hundred and 
thirty-three. From this it appears that we lost three 
Indian members during the four years. But it must 
be remembered that thirty-two of these were counted 
for Fond du Lac and Sandy Lake in 1848. Most 
of these were on trial and were soon dropped. And 
from the calamities and fluctuations connected with 



374 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

those outposts they were now left out of the account. 
The mission at Kewawenon and the Indian station, 
near the Saut, were favored with several seasons of 
spiritual growth and prosperity, as the reader has seen 
in our narrative. That we, at times, suffered losses 
is no less a fact, though painful to record. I have 
taken pains to state facts as I find them, leaving the 
indulgent reader to his own reflections as to their 
bearing. 

Amid all the fluctuations in the mining population, 
and the obstacles in the way of cultivating this new 
and wild region, our white membership had increased 
from thirteen to one hundred and forty-four. As 
it regards other particulars the facts and statistics 
above given speak for themselves. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 375 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

JOURNEY TO THE WISCONSIN CONFERENCE- 
LEAVE OF THE INDIAN MISSION 
DISTRICT. 

I HAD received a communication from the Corre- 
sponding Secretary of the Missionary Society, Dr. 
Durbin, calling me to attend the Wisconsin confer- 
ence on business connected with the missions. It 
had reference to the transfer made by the General 
conference of Fond du Lac and Sandy Lake missions 
to this conference. Monday, 23d, with my wife and 
daughter, I took passage on the steamer London for 
Detroit. We were detained nearly all night at brother 
Church's, near Garden river, to wood. Rev. Mr. 
M'Dougall and his wife, missionaries at Garden river, 
came to see us, and spent two or three hours — a 
delightful interview, and, perhaps, the last we were 
to enjoy together in this world, where the fondest ties 
are often riven. Tuesday, at two o'clock, P. M., we 
touched at Mackinaw, and were again on our way, 
with just breeze enough to cool the air a little, which 
had been uncomfortably warm. The following record 
was made Wednesday, 25th: "Lake calm all night. 
We had a comfortable night's rest. Very foggy 
this morning. We are across Saginaw Bay, ten 



376 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

o'clock, A. M., and the fog is disappearing. We 
have a fair prospect of getting over Lake Huron 
without a blow. How wonderfully have I been fa- 
vored all summer, thus far, in traveling on the 
Lakes! This seems to call loudly for gratitude, es- 
pecially at a time when such serious accidents are 
constantly occurring. We just received word before 
leaving that the steamer Atlantic was run into by a 
propeller, and sunk, with a loss of three or four hun- 
dred lives. How dreadful such a calamity ! 

"Another conference year, with its labors and re- 
sponsibilities, is about closed. I have experienced 
much of the Divine goodness the past year. No 
year of my life has been, I think, more serene. The 
light of God's countenance, in the midst of surround- 
ing darkness, has, in general, shone brightly upon 
my pathway. While I have cause for devout grati- 
tude, I have reason to mourn over my own unfaith- 
fulness, and want of more extended usefulness. Eut 
I feel fully resolved to be God's for time and for 
eternity. for a new consecration to the work 
whereunto God has called me !" 

Thursday we reached Detroit, and spent one night 
in the city. Friday went to Toledo on the steamer 
John Owen, and stopped at Mrs. Allen's, sister to 
my wife. The cholera was raging in the place, and 
some twenty dying daily. It was confined mostly 
to emigrants, and persons of intemperate habits. 

Saturday we reached Adrian. Here found our 
friends in pretty good health. My family were to 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 377 

remain here till after conference. Rev. J. F. David- 
son, pastor of the First Charge, was confined to his 
bed by a violent attack of bilious colic. Some of 
the brethren greeted me warmly, and requested me 
to supply his pulpit on the coming Sabbath, which 
I did, not very satisfactorily to myself. But the peo- 
ple were attentive, and I trust some good was done. 
Great changes had taken place here since my first 
acquaintance with the people, in the fall of 1836. 
Many of the old inhabitants had either died or gone 
to other parts. Some who were then children, that 
I had often dandled upon my knees, were now grown 
up and married. From a thriving village the place 
had grown up to a city. The Church had also greatly 
enlarged her borders. But those early days were 
halcyon days for the Methodist Church in Adrian, 
the bright traces of which were still left in the mem- 
ory of several of the older members, and to which 
they referred with delight. Left Adrian Tuesday 
morning, August 31st. Passed over the S. M. and 
N. I. railroad to Chicago. Wednesday morning, 
September 1st, left Chicago on the steamer Baltic for 
Sheboygan, where we arrived safely about midnight. 
Here six of us hired a private express for Fond du 
Lac, the seat of the conference, where we arrived 
before eight o'clock, A. M., on Thursday. After 
breakfast I found my way to the conference, which 
was in session in the new Methodist church — Bishop 
Ames presiding. The conference was made up of a 
hundred or more members — a fine-looking set of men. 



878 LIGHTS AND. SHADES OP 

Almost without exception they appeared in good 
health, and carried in their bearing the marks of 
sterling men for the itinerant work. I soon recog- 
nized in the company my old friend and brother from 
Ohio, Rev. E. Yocum, one of the presiding elders, 
by whom, before the session closed, I was introduced 
to the Bishop, who introduced me to the conference. 
I was glad also to meet here Rev. W. H. Sampson, 
whose acquaintance I had made in 1838. During 
my sojourn at Fond du Lac I was very kindly enter- 
tained in the pleasant family of Dr. Adams, who had 
under his roof, among others, Rev. C. Hobert, a 
leading and influential member of the conference. 
Brother Hobert was now in the pioneer work in 
Minnesota. 

The time spent at this conference, which was till 
the next Thursday morning, passed very agreeably, 
part of which I was permitted to be in the cabinet. 
The business of the conference, in general, moved 
on harmoniously. The anniversaries and seasons of 
public worship were, some of them, seasons of much 
interest, to detail which is not my business. 

Two of the Sabbath meetings were seasons of spir- 
itual profit, not soon to be forgotten. The one was 
the conference love-feast, remarkable for the number 
of preachers who bore a clear testimony to the great 
blessing of perfect love. Methodism has nothing to 
fear so long as her preachers preach holiness, and 
exemplify it in their experience and deportment. 

The other occasion, which proved so interesting and 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 379 

profitable to many, was the sermon preached in the 
morning by Bishop Ames. His text was, " Have 
faith in God.''' It was a masterly effort, full of 
heavenly unction and mighty power. It was a com- 
bination of convincing argument and happy illustra- 
tion from first to last — the most lucid illustration of 
Christian faith it had ever been my privilege to hear. 
Infidelity was driven from its retreat back to its 
native hell, and Christianity stood forth in strength 
and grandeur, robed in habiliments of loveliness and 
attraction. 

The Catholic priest was making quite a stir here 
among his deluded followers. He held meeting all 
day Thursday and Friday after our arrival. He had 
erected a huge cross, which stood in the center of a 
platform about eight feet high and five or six feet 
square. The cross was adorned with ribbons and 
tassels. From this elevated platform he harangued 
the people in English and French on the superior 
claims of the Romish faith, performing all kinds of 
gyrations and manipulations, and appeared to be as 
much in earnest as if the destiny of his Church 
hinged upon this effort. It was a complete Jesuitical 
maneuver to keep his people — as it seemed to some 
of the spectators — from under the influence of Meth- 
odism, which was evidently annoying to him. A 
religion which needs such flummery to keep it in 
countenance, is in striking contrast with the simple 
and unostentatious religion taught by Christ and his 
apostles. 



380 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

I left the seat of the conference in company with 
brother Cox, acting agent for the New York Book 
Concern, via Chicago. I arrived at Niles, the seat 
of the Michigan conference, by noon the next Satur- 
day. Here I had a most pleasant home assigned me, 
in the intelligent and kind Christian family of Mr. 
Laramour, of the Presbyterian Church. My home 
was rendered the more agreeable by having Dr. Kid- 
der for room-mate two or three days. 

The next day, at the request of my ministerial 
brethren, I preached in the Congregational, Meth- 
odist, and Baptist churches — once in each. I was 
blessed in bearing the standard of Christ before the 
people, who seemed to appreciate the blessings of 
the sanctuary. 

Conference opened on the following Wednesday. 
Bishop Scott presided. It closed on Wednesday 
evening of the 22d. It was one of the most har- 
monious and agreeable sessions that we had ever 
attended. For the Bishop and presiding elders it 
was a very laborious session. We had to work night 
and day. Toward the close I began to feel the 
effects of such incessant toil and want of regular 
and sufficient sleep. We received our appointment 
to the Kalamazoo station. I knew but little about 
the state of things there, except a hint which the 
presiding elder gave me. He said that he desired 
me to go there, and "pour oil on the troubled waters." 
My predecessor had left the Methodist Episcopal 
Church in the midst of the year, and had been in- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 381 

ducted, by the imposition of Episcopal hands, into 
the true (?) apostolical (?) succession! 

I noted then in my journal: "I feel much relieved 
in mind to think of being released from so responsi- 
ble and laborious a district as that of the Indian 
mission. I have prayed earnestly to God to be qual- 
ified for my new charge. for grace to help!" 

The evening on which conference closed I crossed 
over to the Southern railroad to South Bend, Indiana. 
I here took the cars at eleven o'clock at night, and 
reached Adrian by nine o'clock the next morning. 
It seemed desirable that we should spend the next 
Sabbath at our new charge. On Friday morning, 
accompanied by my family, I went by railroad to 
Jonesville. Here I hired an express to take us 
across to Albion, where we arrived at five o'clock, 
P. M., and were hospitably entertained under the 
roof of my old friend, Rev. W. H. Brockway. Sat- 
urday morning I was permitted to visit the seminary, 
and open the school by prayer. I had the privilege 
of meeting a number of old acquaintances, whom I 
had not seen in some years. That afternoon, in the 
midst of a cold, disagreeable rain, we reached Kala- 
mazoo, and were kindly cared for under the roof of 
brother T. Paige. 

Sabbath I was introduced to my new charge, and 
preached twice with a good degree of liberty, met 
the general class, and attended the Sunday school. 

Monday, September 27th, at one o'clock, A M., 
I took leave of my family to go to the jSaut jSte. 



382 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Marie after our things. I was detained in Detroit 
till Wednesday before I could get a boat. I met here 
my brother Joshua, on his way to Lake Superior, 
who was company for me to the Saut. We left 
Detroit on the Northerner, and arrived at the Saut 
on Friday about noon. We had a rough time in 
crossing Saginaw Bay. I became seasick, the effects 
of which I felt more after I landed than while on the 
water. . That afternoon I packed my books, and did 
what I could to get our things ready for removal. 
Brother Measures and wife, missionaries on their 
way to Ontonagon, brother Marksman, my brother, 
and myself were stopping together in our all but 
deserted homestead, with coarse living and every thing 
in a confused and transition state. At night I was 
quite sick — my appetite gone, and a feeling of 
faintness. 

Sabbath was to us a day of quiet rest. Rev. S. 
Steele preached to us in the morning, from, " 0, taste 
and see that the Lord is good !" The food was sweet 
to our taste. I preached my farewell sermon in the 
afternoon, from Acts xx, 22-24, to an attentive audi- 
ence. Here closed our efforts in this interesting 
field. Rev. James Shaw was appointed on the dis- 
trict in our stead. 

Monday I had our things all boxed up and down 
to the warehouse shortly after noon. I now parted 
with my brother and the missionaries bound up Lake 
Superior, who left on the Manhattan. 

Having emptied the house of our movables, I fell 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 383 

down upon my knees, and for some time held a season 
of hallowed communion with God. 0, what scenes 
rushed into my mind ! The events of the four years 
spent on the district all seemed to be present. My 
own want of faithfulness tended deeply to humble 
me. The trials through which we had passed — the 
scenes of the last hours with our dear little Henry, 
were fresh as of yesterday. But, 0, what a heavenly 
peace, and love, and joy filled my soul! I could real- 
ize that "God is love." I felt that my ransomed 
powers were consecrated to him. Arising from my 
knees, I took my small trunk and sachel and went 
to the aS^. Marie House, where Mr. N., the landlord, 
treated me with every attention that could subserve 
my comfort or convenience. 

Thursday made several calls, and took leave of old 
acquaintances. Went once more to the cemetery, 
where repose the ashes of our dear Henry. I went 
there not to repine at that Providence which had 
bereaved us, but to contemplate the glorious resur- 
rection morning, when the mortal of our dear babe 
should be clad with immortality, and when our kin- 
dred, having died in the Lord, "though sundered far," 
and scarcely two buried in one graveyard, should be 
reunited, and be forever with the Lord. Sweet and 
hallowed were my reflections as I gazed, it may be 
for the last time, on the tomb of our little innocent. 

Before noon we left the Saut on the London. 
We were favored with delightful weather. Beached 
Detroit Thursday morning before nine o'clock, just 

£0 



884 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

in time to take the cars for Kalamazoo, where I 
arrived at four o'clock, P. M., grateful to that 
Providence who had kept me in my recent journey- 
ings, by land and water, of more than two thousand 
miles. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 385 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

WIFE AND CHILDREN OF THE MISSIONARY 
AMONG THE INDIANS. 

Woman has been found generally to bear her equal 
share of the toils, responsibilities, privations, and dan- 
gers connected with the struggles of the nation or of 
the Church. A work professing to delineate the 
phases of mission life among our aboriginal tribes, 
would be defective without at least a chapter on the 
part which woman, surrounded by her children, is 
called to act in so noble an undertaking as the evan- 
gelization of this interesting portion of the human race. 

There is much of romance in the first interviews of 
a stranger with the Indians. The Christian lady — 
which we must take to be true of the missionary's 
wife — in taking up her residence at an Indian mission, 
finds herself environed by sights, and sounds, and 
influences, to her entirely new and strange. The con- 
versation of the inhabitants is about as intelligible to 
her as the chattering of birds. She may have half 
a dozen associates of her own language and manner 
of life. Perhaps she is alone, except the members of 
her own family. Often she finds herself the only 
white female in the house of worship. At first there 
is a peculiar charm about all the exercises of the 



386 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

sanctuary. The preaching through an interpreter — 
the songs of praise which well up out of warm 
Christian hearts, in an unknown tongue — the devout 
prayer, though unintelligible, except by the magnetic 
power of the Spirit's influence, which, when it moves 
one heart, by a well-known sympathetic influence, 
touches a spring which causes every other devout 
heart to vibrate in unison, whatever be the lan- 
guage — the story of the cross, as related by these 
children of nature — the subdued meekness of ex- 
pression, and the scalding tears, which often chase 
each other down over brawny faces — all these, and 
many other things, operate like a charm, and move 
the tender sympathies of the female heart. 

But the spell is at length broken. With all the 
holy influences connected with such scenes, they be- 
gin to wear an aspect of monotony. Thought is 
busy within, as she casts around her and feels like a 
speckled bird, in the midst of a strange people. 
With the speed of lightning, thought wings its flight 
across lakes, forests, and plains. Her body is on 
mission ground, but her mind is with loved ones "far, 
far away." The influences of the sanctuary, in her 
native land, where every thing had free course, in her 
own tongue, rush into her mind unbidden, and uncon- 
sciously she falls into the pious moanings of the 
royal Psalmist : " How can we sing the Lord's song 
in a strange land? If I forget thee, Jerusalem, let 
my right hand forget her cunning. If I do not re- 
member thee, let my tongue cleave to the roof of 



MISSIONAKY LIFE. 387 

my mouth; if I prefer not Jerusalem above my 
chief joy." 

Her domestic cares are onerous and trying. In 
the nature of things she must often be left to serve 
alone. But, if every thing else differs about her, she 
must have her household regulations as much after 
the old sort as possible. She has, it may be, just 
performed her kitchen duties. With the complai- 
sance wont to characterize woman, after her floor is 
well scoured and every thing in trim, she catches up 
her knitting or sewing, and is just about to have a 
little respite from more active toil. But just now 
half a dozen, perhaps a dozen, Indians come to the 
door, and, without knocking, open the door and walk 
in as though they were lords of the concern. The 
men usually become seated in a chair. Often the 
women, with their papooses, squat upon the floor, 
where it is most convenient. The men fill their long 
pipes with tobacco, and Mn-i-Jcm-icJc, a leaf which 
they use for smoking, or, as a substitute, they often 
use the bark of red alder. Now, for some time, it 
is puff and spit. The lady of the house must screw 
up her olfactories to the utmost, and then if she do 
not cast some meaning side glances at her insulted 
floor, as though she sympathized with it, it is because 
she do n't know how. 

But now comes the important part of the scene 
before us. One of these consequential personages 
volunteers to become the speaker for the rest. He 
begins : " Ka-gaie. y nee-je, ah-pi-che ne-buk-a-da-min. 



388 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Kah-ga-go ko-koosh,kauJi-ga-gopah-qua-zhe-gun y kali- 
ga-go mon-dah-min, kah-ga-go kee-go, me suh ah-noge 
Jca-go mej-e-um, kah-we-ah. Ka-gate ah-pi-clie sun- 
ah-gut! Ah-pa-gish, nee-je, pun-ge pah-qua-zhe-gun, 
ki-ya ko-koosh" etc. In plain English : " Indeed, my 
friend, we are very hungry. We have no pork, no 
bread, no potatoes, no corn, no fish, and so of every 
thing else. We have no provision of any kind. In- 
deed this is very hard! I desire, friend, that you 
would give us some bread and pork." If this can 
not be afforded, something else is desired as a sub- 
stitute. What is to be done now? In sympathy to 
the hungry, the missionary's wife brings forth what 
is left of the last baking, something else is added, 
to stop this clamor for a morsel of food, and the 
hungry are sent away with a glad heart. As they 
take their leave their benefactress bethinks herself 
that her domestic cares were not lessened by the short 
stay of these visitors. The picture here drawn does 
not apply to those Indians who have availed them- 
selves of the benefits of missionary teaching to any 
considerable degree. These are mostly honorable ex- 
ceptions. But this sketch is neither overdrawn nor 
of rare occurrence. 

The Christian matron finds it a difficult thing to 
train up her children aright surrounded by such in- 
fluences. Her little ones are at the very age when 
impressions are indelibly made. In the school there 
is nothing to excite to emulation. The missionary's 
children, having the advantage of their mother tongue, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 389 

are generally in advance of the other scholars, and 
are rather held in check than aided by their asso- 
ciates. Children must have playmates. If they can 
have no others, they soon contract an intimacy for 
the Indian children, rapidly learn their language, 
and slide imperceptibly into many of their habits. 
To guard against such an evil, and to secure, as far 
as possible, a correct training, imposes no small 
charge on the wife of the missionary. 

With her husband she becomes a partner in the 
great field of evangelical labor, and, to the extent 
of her ability, becomes a teacher of civilization in the 
management of her domestic relations. A stranger 
will soon be struck with the difference between the 
progress made in housewifery by the Indian women 
at our stations and those at Catholic stations. The 
comparison is greatly in favor of the former. This 
is owing, in a very great degree, to the example set 
the natives by our female missionaries. 

Not the least of her privations are the seasons 
of her husband's often long absence. Her condition is 
most lonely, having often scarcely any about her but 
natives, and, perchance, many of these untamed and 
ferocious in their appearance — enough to frighten a 
delicate female, unless possessed of undaunted cour- 
age. Added to this, she can not be — she is not — 
unmindful of exposures and perils of her husband, 
as he spends wearisome days and nights in the wintery 
forest, or encounters storms on the raging deep. A 
missionary's wife thus writes to her husband when 



390 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

many miles had separated them: u Dear Husband, — 
I received yours from Eagle River, and also from 
La Pointe. We are all well, and feel thankful for 
the blessing of health. Never did I spend a more 
anxious Sabbath than the one after you left. I knew 
you must have a very hard time, which proved to 
be true. I can assure you that night ^was a very 
lonely one to me. I went to bed, but not to sleep. 
My prayer was that the Lord would deliver you. 
How good the Lord is to those that put their trust 
in him! Brother J. said I might rest assured you 
were under White Fish Point. It was not any con- 
solation to me. I never saw the river [Ste. Marie] 
in such motion as it was that day." * 

The feelings of a missionary's wife in her lonely 
hours may be seen in the following brief extract from 
a letter to her husband: "I have never missed you 
as much as I have this time. I felt very uneasy 
about you after your leaving. Every thing looked 
gloomy." 

What made those hours more lonely was, that 
at such times disease stealthily found its way occa- 
sionally into the family circle, piercing loved ones 
with painful, if not fatal, darts. 

But she whose position we are now viewing be- 
comes the traveler. Her sphere is not local, at least 
for any length of time. If you would test her reso- 



* Reference is here made to the stormy Sabbath I spent on the pro- 
peller Independence described above. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 393 

lution, her courage in danger, and her fortitude in 
the hour of suffering, you must accompany her, per- 
haps with the infant in her arms, as she coasts, for 
days and weeks together, in the frail birchen canoe, 
over noisy waves, beneath the scalding sun, the 
drenching rain, or falling snow; view her as she 
sits thoughtfully beside her camp-fire, amid the wild 
scenes around her. It may be her fortune to meet 
the fury of the dashing and foaming rapids, or to be 
hurried down them with wild excitement, amid dan- 
gerous rocks or jutting crags. And, anon, she is 
seen trudging in mud knee-deep across land port- 
ages. Old Humphry sets down as an exaggerated 
expression, wading in mud " knee-deep." His re- 
mark is doubtless true where it was designed to ap- 
ply ; but if any person will cross the Savan Portage, 
without getting knee-deep in the slough, he must be 
remarkable for dexterity as a pedestrian. 

We must view our heroine — for such she may be 
justly styled, in the best sense of the term — from 
one or two other stand-points. We must go to some 
of the remoter inland stations. Here heathenism is 
seen yielding its legitimate fruits in abundance. 
Here are scenes so revolting that the eye of hu- 
manity turns away and weeps. Here are sights that 
move to pity and yearning commiseration; cold, na- 
kedness, and hunger — sickness, pain, and anguish. 
Death strews his victims around, without pity, and 
the grave opens to receive them, if perchance their 

bones are not left bleaching on the ground. Some 

33 



394 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

such scenes have been before given. Here is added 
an extract from a letter, written to my wife by Mrs. 
Rev. S. Spates, of Sandy Lake mission, dated Janu- 
ary 31, 1850. If the reader can peruse it unmoved, 
he is more of a stoic than the writer : 

"Dear Sister Pitezel, — I have long been want- 
ing to write to you, but have never taken my pen in 
hand to do so till now. We are all well at present; 
and truly, I think, I feel thankful to the Giver of 
every good and perfect gift for this great blessing; 
for never was there a time when it was more import- 
ant for us to have good health for the performance of 
the duties that devolve on us than at present. 

"The Indians, or at least many of them,, at this 
place, lost all their gardens last summer by the great 
freshet, and, from the same cause, the wild rice crop 
was entirely destroyed in this region, and, conse- 
quently, there is quite a famine among them. There 
are several large families here who have not a pound 
of provision, and their only chance to get any thing 
is to cut holes in the ice and try to take fish with a 
hook, for the water is not clear enough to spear them. 
If they succeed, they have something to eat; if not, 
they must wrap up in their blankets, and lie down, 
amid the cries of their hungry children, to pass the 
night without food. 

" Formerly, when the rice crop was cut off, they 
could live by hunting. But this winter they all say 
there are very few tracks of any kind of animals to 



# 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 395 



be seen, so few that they have almost entirely given 
up hunting. But the Indians at this place are not 
alone in their suffering. All the Indians north of 
us, as far as we have been able to learn, are in a still 
worse condition. They are not only hungry, but are 
almost naked. The rabbits, previous to this winter, 
have always been very numerous in that part of the 
country, and, as their lands have not been purchased 
by Government, they, of course, have no annuities 
from that source^ and their principal clothing has 
been made of the skins of rabbits, and their flesh 
was their main dependence for food. But this winter 
there were no rabbits to be had, and it is to be feared 
that a great many of these poor Indians must perish 
with hunger and cold before spring. You can better 
imagine than I can describe our feelings, when, a 
few days since, a whole band of these poor, starving, 
naked creatures made their appearance among us. 
They were scarcely able to walk. A few of the 
strongest ones came several days before the others. 
They said they had eaten nothing for eight days. 
After recruiting a day or two, they procured a little 
provision, and started back to meet the others. When 
they reached them, they were so far gone that they 
would walk a few steps and fall down. After eating, 
however, they gathered strength, and all reached here 
alive. But how all the Indians that are here now are 
to live till spring I can not tell. To all human ap- 
pearance, some of them must starve to death. The 
Lord blessed us with a fine crop of potatoes last 



396 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

fall, amounting to nearly three hundred bushels. By 
cooking potatoes, we are able to feed a good many 
of them. We generally give away from ten to thirty 
portions a day, besides what we let them have to 
take away with them. Within the past month we 
have thus fed between three and four hundred In- 
dians. 

"But this seems to effect but little toward reliev- 
ing their sufferings. I frequently think if our good 
Christian brethren could be with us, and witness with 
what gratitude they receive a little food, and have 
them beg for every thing in their sight, even to the 
potato peelings, and see with what eagerness they 
gather up the smallest pieces — could they see how 
stupid, ignorant, filthy, and degraded they are — could 
they, in a word, behold the image of their blessed 
Lord in such ruins, such dreadful ruins, as we here 
behold it, their purse-strings would be unloosed, tears 
of sympathy would flow freely from their eyes, their 
interest for the cause of missions among the heathen 
would be greatly increased, and the burden of their 
prayer would be, Lord, send forth speedily more 
laborers into thy harvest ! There are hundreds, per- 
haps thousands, of poor Indians in this wilderness 
who have never heard the name of Jesus. My eyes 
overflow with tears at this thought ; and unless they 
are soon Christianized and taught to cultivate the 
soil, they must soon become extinct; for game, which 
is their principal source of subsistence, is becoming 
scarcer every year." 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 397 

This lengthy and touching extract shows with what 
feelings the missionary's wife looks upon the phys- 
ical, intellectual, and moral destitution around her; 
how her noble and generous sympathies bound to 
meet those crying wants, and how her hands act in 
concert to deal out bread to the hungry; thus to be- 
come eyes to the blind, and feet to the lame. I think 
of several female missionaries, who have spent years 
in that remote region, a delineation of whose labors 
and sufferings for the cause of Christ would be in- 
valuable to the Church. Their own pen could make 
the record. 

THE FAMINE. 

" the long, the dreary winter ! 
the cold and cruel winter ! 
Ever thicker, thicker, thicker, 
Froze the ice on lake and river, 
Ever deeper, deeper, deeper, 
Fell the snow o'er all the landscape, 
Fell the covering snow, and drifted 
Through the forest — round the village ; 
Hardly from his buried wigwam 
Could the hunter force a passage ; 
With his mittens and his snow-shoes 
Vainly walked he through the forest, 
Sought for bird, or beast, and found none, 
Saw no track of deer or rabbit, 
In the snow beheld no foot-prints ; 
In the ghastly, gleaming forest 
Fell, and could not rise from weakness — 
Perished there from cold and hunger." 

Song op Hiawatha, pp. 262-3. . 



398 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

INDIAN CHARACTERISTICS. 

The reader may be disappointed if he should not 
find, in a work of this kind, a chapter, at least, devoted 
to some of the leading features which indelibly stamp 
the Indian character. It must be confessed that the 
subject is a difficult one to treat properly, and this is 
the more so within the narrow limits assigned to 
these remarks. 

The Indian is wont to look back to palmy days, in 
his traditional history, when his people could boast of 
numbers and of prowess; when, comparatively free 
from diseases, they were rapidly increasing; when 
they could rally numerous braves, fitted, by training, 
for the chase, or for war. They think of their once 
vast forests, rich and luxuriant, and abounding with 
game — of their lakes and rivers, filled with the finny 
tribes. They contemplate, with sorrow and dejection, 
the joyous days, when contact with the "pale faces" 
had not introduced among them various pestilences 
and epidemics, by which their thriving settlements 
were fast depopulated — of those days when they had 
not come in contact with the worse pestilence of 
their peculiar vices, to fill up the measure of their 
already corrupt and sinful moral being. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 399 

To form a correct view of Indian character some- 
thing more is requisite than the passing glance of 
the traveler. There is danger here of forming a 
hasty judgment, and drawing "pen and ink sketches," 
life-like though they may be, as imaginary portraits, 
yet fail to reflect the original. We look in vain into 
the dense shades of the wilderness, the home of the 
red man, for those marks of greatness to be found 
among many other nations. We see not smiling fields 
waving with golden harvests. Vainly do we look for 
thrifty villages and populous cities, with the din and 
bustle of business, and the ebbing and flowing tide 
of commerce. The school, the college, the church, 
and the legislative assembly greet not the eye of the 
beholder. All is the wildness and ruggedness of na- 
ture, untamed and unsubdued. The highest achieve- 
ment of skill in the mechanic art is to construct the 
rude wigwam, the snow-shoe, or the birchen canoe. 
The steamboat has not found its way into the deep 
and broad river, nor has the flying locomotive, the 
ish-hu-ta-o-dau-bon, the fire-wagon, sped its way over 
the wide domain. The printing-press, Herschel's 
telescope, and the electric telegraph would be alike 
useless to this rude people. Vainly we look for the 
philosopher, the historian, the discoverer, the inventor, 
the man of genius. 

It would seem to be a natural inference, from such 
evidences, that the Indians are a very inferior race ; 
that, intellectually, they are far below most other 
nations. As an existing and general fact, it can not 



400 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

be called in question that, in many respects, they 
are inferior to their white neighbors. In point of 
knowledge they confess themselves to be but mere 
children compared with others. As men, they would 
be slow to admit that they were inferior to the proud- 
est monarch. 

But this admission is not sufficient proof of real 
inferiority in native talent and capability. It has re- 
sulted rather from want of opportunity to develop 
existing talent. Powers of body or mind unused 
soon become imbecile. It can not be doubted that 
the tendency of all the scenes and associations sur- 
rounding the untutored Indian is to barbarism, to a 
savage state. It is a tendency downward. Every 
thing tends to depress and degrade fallen humanity 
to a deeper degradation, socially, intellectually, and 
morally. Let these opposing influences operate unre- 
strained for untold ages, and what must be the nec- 
essary result? 

The tendency of these influences is demonstrated 
in the fact that, in numerous instances, where people 
of other nations have taken up their abode with the 
Indians, they have gradually adopted their manners 
and customs. It requires, in such cases, only two or 
three generations to bring them down to the level 
of their barbarous neighbors. What then can we 
expect of the Indian in the midst of his darkness and 
barbarism ? 

But with such names to enliven the page of Indian 
history as Pontiac, Blue Jacket, Osceola, Logan, Te- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 401 

cumseh, and Black-Hawk,* who can question the high 
intellectual capability of the tribes they represent? 
Under more favorable auspices, many of them would 
have been the patrons of the arts and sciences, their 
eloquence would have resounded in the forum, and 
the wisdom of their statesmen would have rendered 
venerable their legislative assemblies. The lines of 
the poet may apply truthfully to the untutored 
Indian : 

" Full many a flower is born to blush unseen, 
And waste its fragrance on the desert air." 

In many examples in Indian history we have some 
of the finest specimens of impassioned eloquence on 
record. For striking and beautiful imagery, terse and 
forcible illustration, and deep pathos, where shall we 
look for better examples? Than this fact alone no 
better evidence could be afforded of a high order 
of intellect. The book of the Indian orator is al- 
ways spread out before him. He draws his illustra- 
tions from the sun, moon, and stars, and the firmament 
which environs him like a great wigwam. Forests 
and mountains, beasts, birds, fishes, and reptiles, riv- 
ers, lakes, and oceans, furnish him with appropriate 
metaphors and striking comparisons. A few brief 
specimens must suffice. 



*To this list may be added such names as Mononcue, Between-the- 
Logs, John Sunday, and Peter Jones, among the Christianized Indians. 
These were men capable of standing in the presence of governors and 
king3. 



402 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

The following brief speech was made by Sastarexy, 
chief of the Hurons, to La Motte, the French com- 
mandant at Detroit. It had reference to the giving 
up, on the part of the Outawas, of Le Pesant, called 
The Bear, to atone for his murderous acts among 
the Miamis. Sastarexy did not believe that this 
great bear, so dreaded by the Indians, would be given 
into their hands. He was for wreaking his vengeance 
on some of the enemy that were at hand. Le Pesant 
was at Mackinaw. He addressed La Motte as fol- 
lows: 

"My Father, — Let us say to you that we can 
not believe that the Outawas will do what they have 
promised; for who is he that can overturn so great 
a tree, [Le Pesant] whose roots, they themselves 
say, are so deep in the earth, and whose branches 
extend over all the lakes ? There is meat here ; why 
go farther to seek it? One is certain, the other is 
uncertain." (Sheldon's Early Hist. Mich., p. 225.) 

The following is the closing of a speech made by 
Logan, a chief of the Cayugas, after all his relatives 
had been murdered in cold blood, without provocation, 
by Colonel Cresap, a white man : 

"There runs not a drop of my blood in the veins 
of any living creature. This called on me for re- 
venge. I have sought it. I have killed many. I 
have fully glutted my vengeance. For my country I 
rejoice at the beams of peace; but do not harbor a 
thought that mine is the joy of fear. Logan never 
felt fear. He will not turn on his heel to save his 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 403 

life. Who is there to mourn for Logan? Not one!" 
(Frost's Indian Wars, page 153.) 

The following is Black-Hawk's speech, after he 
had failed to effect the deliverance of his people: 
"Farewell, my nation! Black-Hawk tried to save 
you, and revenge your wrongs. He drank the blood 
of some of the whites. He has been taken prisoner, 
and his names are stopped. He can do no more. 
He is near his end. His sun is setting, and he will 
rise no more. Farewell to Black-Hawk." (Ibid., 
page 267.) 

The Indians are imitative beings. The ingenuity 
and skill they display in making their nets, snow- 
shoes, and birch canoes, under proper tuition, will 
enable them to excel as mechanics. The skill of the 
women in weaving mats and sacks and making fancy 
articles of birch bark, which they ornament with col- 
ored porcupine quills and painted figures, and their 
fine specimens of bead-work, show that they can 
readily learn to manufacture clothes and fancy arti- 
cles with the needle. Their susceptible progress in 
the various arts of civilization might be shown by 
numerous interesting facts, which it would be tedious 
to relate here. 

Some of the most striking features of Indian char- 
acter, as all their history attests, are love of liberty 
and independence, intrepidity in the chase or in war, 
generosity to strangers, patient endurance of fatigue, 
cold, and hunger, feelings of revenge for wrongs suf- 
fered, fortitude in the midst of perils, and contempt 



404 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

of death. See this last remark illustrated in Logan's 
speech. 

But a picture of Indian character can not be drawn 
without some dark lines. Much of Indian history is 
a history of wars. These are marked, in many in- 
stances, by savage ferocity and by acts of cruelty 
and inhumanity almost without parallel, unless it is 
to be found in the treatment they have received from 
their enemies. Mr. Frost, in speaking of the Indian 
wars in the time of the American Revolution, says, 
" The whole course of the contest maintained between 
the Indians and the Americans, had been marked by 
an excess of cruelty almost unparalleled in the annals 
of war. Women and children were put to death as 
mercilessly as those in arms." (Page 181.) The 
Indians have often proved treacherous to their best 
friends. And yet it would be hard to prove from 
this that treachery characterizes them as a people. 
They have often, at such times, been influenced by 
their more knowing false friends and ill advisers, to 
whom they have looked for counsel. In extenuation 
of the cruelty of the Indians toward others, it may 
be stated that they have seldom been the aggressors, 
and have often suffered much before they have sought 
for revenge. But when once the fires of revenge 
have been kindled, they have exhibited more of the 
rage of demons than the reason of men. 

Among the Indians, woman is degraded far beneath 
her appropriate sphere. The term woman is one of 
reproach. To act meanly and cowardly is to act the 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 405 

woman. To be called a woman is an insult scarcely 
to be endured. To be clad in woman's dress and 
treated like a woman, as a punishment, is the climax 
of public disgrace. See an interesting case related 
in Hall's Life of Rev. John Clark, where Gov. Cass 
" decided to make a woman" of an Indian who had 
been guilty of a high misdemeanor. The Governor 
caused him to be divested of his own clothing, instead 
of which he was invested with "an old, greasy petti- 
coat." "It is said that he never recovered his posi- 
tion with his tribe, but was ever after considered as 
disfranchised and degraded." (Page 82.) 

The women cultivate the patches of corn and pota- 
toes, besides doing the other drudgery about home. 

But respecting this Mr. Schoolcraft says: "It is 
not generally known that this labor is not compul- 
sory, and that it is assumed by the females as a just 
equivalent, in their view, for the onerous and contin- 
uous labor of the other sex, in providing meats and 
skins for clothing by the chase, and in defending their 
villages against their enemies, and in keeping intru- 
ders off their territories." (Notes to the Song of 
Hiawatha, page 307.) 

For all this, it is an undoubted fact that the men 
very willingly avoid this labor, when they are far 
more able to do it than those upon whom the burden 
falls. The lordly head of the family, in his prime 
and vigor, and the active youth of sixteen, often 
lounge about the wigwam for days together, and see 
aged and decrepit mothers and grandmothers, and 



406 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

superannuated old men, bending under the weight 
of burdens " grievous to be borne," without lending 
a helping hand. 

There is much of primitive simplicity embodied in 
their language and hieroglyphics. Like the Hebrew 
language, their names are highly significant, and are 
usually given, not arbitrarily, but to express some 
quality or trait in the person or thing to which they 
are applied. The fire-water for whisky, the fire- 
wagon for the locomotive, the Great Knife for the 
American people, in allusion to the terrible use they 
made of the sword in the Indian wars, may serve as 
examples. Men and women are named after trees, 
birds, beasts, and other objects animate or inani- 
mate, to suit their fancy. Tecumseh was appropri- 
ately named the " Crouching Panther" 

The Indians, like the ancient Israelites, have their 
totems, or family coat of arms. These are preserved 
in hieroglyphics carved in wood or painted on bark. 
The totem may be the bear, the eagle, the fox, or any 
other animal. At the decease of a relative, the totem 
is placed at the head of the grave. Generations may 
have passed away, and near relatives may have been 
scattered far and wide, but wherever they find the 
same coat of arms, they know that they belong to the 
same original stock and are descended from the same 
parents. They thus preserve the identity of their 
tribes with great care. 

The mythology and religion of the Indians is in- 
vested with much interest to such as would study 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 407 

Indian character. I find a paragraph so appropri- 
ately written on this subject in Hall's Life of Rev. 
John Clark, that the reader will be gratified at its 
insertion here : 

" The Indians believed in the Great Spirit, whom 
they always located in the sky, and to whom they 
ascribed many of his attributes. They always regard 
him as omniscient and the hearer of prayer; he is 
supreme in power and infinite in goodness. But they 
were at the same time polytheists; they clothed the 
fields, forests, and waters with divinities, and re- 
garded every part of creation as animated by spirits 
visible and invisible. Some were malignant and some 
benign, and they presided over the affairs and desti- 
nies of men. These must be propitiated by sacrifice, 
and their offerings must be followed by fasts to ren- 
der them acceptable, and by feasts to express grati- 
tude. Such is the ground-work of their religion ; but 
superstition has grafted upon the original stock, till 
it has become monstrous with demonology, witch- 
craft, and necromancy. They have no succession in 
the priesthood, but, like the office of war-captain, it 
is assumed and exercised by men of more than ordi- 
nary acuteness and cunning. It is conferred by the 
election of opinion, but not of votes. While they 
regard the Great Spirit as having his residence in the 
sky, they invariably locate their minor divinities in 
the earth. The idea of a universal deluge is fully 
entertained by all the Indians, and it is found in their 
tales and legends, even at the greatest distance from 



408 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

civilization and Christianity. They have also some 
crude notions of the incarnation, as is evident from 
legends gathered and translated by Mr. Schoolcraft." 
(Pages 78, 79.) 

A few facts may not be amiss here, as illustrative 
of their idolatrous and polytheistic worship. Some 
years since, Rev. P. Marksman found at Naomikong, 
Lake Superior, a singular-shaped stone, evidently 
worn by the action of water, which he presented me 
as one of their gods. Many of the islands are desig- 
nated by the words manito minis, which mean spirit 
island. The island of Mackinaw, according to Mr. 
Schoolcraft, signifies " place of the dancing spirits." 
A lofty rock islet stands, like a lone monument, in 
the St. Louis river, near the head of Grand Portage, 
which the Indians regard with superstitious venera- 
tion. Many of them think it daring presumption to 
attempt to scale its summit. They often coast along 
it, and lay their grateful offerings of tobacco on its 
ledges, to propitiate the presiding divinity. 

All who have ever spent much time among the 
Ojibwa Indians, have heard something about the won- 
drous tutelar divinity, "of mysterious birth" and 
wondrous achievements, designated by several titles, 
but commonly called Ma-ne-bu-zho. When at Kewa- 
wenon, John Southwind presented me with a small 
image of an old man carved in wood, designed to 
represent this divinity, which, I was told, had de- 
scended through four generations. Some of the 
greatest blessings enjoyed by the Indians are by 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 409 

them attributed to the agency of Ma-ne-bu-zho, 
whose very name is a synonym of wisdom. Several 
of the legends of this personage, combined with some 
others of similar character, form the outline of the 
very singular and attractive poem by Longfellow, en- 
titled " The Song of Hiawatha." Many phases of 
Indian character are here painted with the hand of 
the master. The production is a fine addition to the 
classic literature of American authors, and will be 
read with great interest by every student of the In- 
dian. Poetic license has been taken with some In- 
dian words and phrases, which might be expected. 
But whatever the critics may say, his poem will live 
and be admired as a monument of the author's ge- 
nius and a beautiful tribute to the fast-fading and 
disappearing tribes of the wilderness. 

From numerous incidents before given in this work, 
it is but too apparent that the moral traits of heathen 
Indians give a dark coloring to the picture. Igno- 
rance and stupidity, superstition, idolatry, sorcery, 
and necromancy, with the long and dark train of 
heathen vices and abominations, are to be found 
here. If the apostle Paul had spent years among 
this people, he could not have traced their moral lin- 
eaments into a more complete life-likeness than he 
has done in the first chapter to the Romans, from 
which one brief clause is enough: "Filled with all 
unrighteousness" Here is God's image "in dreadful 
ruins." Without the Gospel, as a people they are 

"without hope." 

34 



410 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP 



CHAPTER XXX. 

PLEA FOR INDIAN MISSIONS. 

The Christianization and civilization of the abo- 
riginal tribes of North America have enlisted the 
warm Christian sympathy and enlarged benevolence 
of many of the wisest and best men. Such, evi- 
dently, do not look upon the efforts of the Church 
and the nation, in this direction, as visionary and 
impracticable, but as founded upon reason and the 
higher demands of revelation. Still it is not to be 
questioned that skepticism prevails widely among men 
whose influence is felt, and felt, too, even within the 
pale of the Church, and the energies of many thus 
become paralyzed, and the streams of benevolence 
are dried up or turned out of their course. 

When traveling on Lake Superior I fell in com- 
pany with a gentleman of learning and talent — a 
statesman — a man of influence as a popular orator, 
who evinced, in general, great respect for religion, 
but who considered that "the attempts of mission- 
aries to better the condition of Indians had hitherto 
proved an utter failure, and that it was to fight against 
Providence to attempt, under existing circumstances, 
to better their condition." 

In the very able and important reports of Messrs. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 411 

Foster and Whitney on the Geology and Topography 
of the Lake Superior region, after an interesting and 
highly-appreciatory sketch of the labors and suffer- 
ings of Jesuit missionaries, in the vicinity of the 
lakes, we have the following statement, which, if we 
understand it, is intended to apply to all missionary 
efforts bestowed upon the Indians. The idea is, that 
they have proved a failure. The statement, without 
qualification, is copied into Sheldon's Early History of 
Michigan, and is thus embalmed in the history of our 
country. It is as follows : " The effect of the contact 
of the two races has been to afford the Indian addi- 
tional incentives to vice, while his intellectual and 
moral elevation has been little advanced; and, at this 
day, it can not be said that he stands higher in the 
scale of civilization than when first known by the 
white man." (Part I, page 10.) Here, by a single 
sweep of the pen, the labors, sacrifices, and, in many 
instances, eminent successes of missionaries in this 
field, are scattered to the winds and covered with 
oblivion. But they may well afford to suffer such a 
fate when it is remembered that "their record is on 
high, and their memorial with their God." 

These statements may be considered in the light 
of objections to missionary effort among the Indians. 
Let us examine them briefly. The first assumes, as 
true, that missionary efforts among the Indians have 
proved an utter failure. The assumption we deny 
as unfounded, and rest the matter here for the pres- 
ent. It is said to be "to fight against Providence 



412 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

to attempt, under existing circumstances, to better 
their condition." If to attempt to carry into effect 
the authoritative command of Providence, to go into 
all the world and preach the Gospel to every creature, 
is to fight against Providence, then the Christian 
Church may plead guilty to the charge. If, on the 
contrary, the mandate of Heaven is to he obeyed, it 
is not only to acquiesce in, but to act in harmony 
with the will of Providence, to labor with a view to 
the elevation of the red man. 

The statement taken from the reports we may ad- 
mit, in part, what is here affirmed, that "the effect 
of the contact of the two races has been to afford the 
Indian additional incentives to vice." But has it not 
afforded him also limitless incentives to virtue, which 
were beyond his reach? On the same principle of 
reasoning, we might say that the means of human 
progress open up incentives and furnish occasions 
for the spread of vice among white people; there- 
fore, the means of progress have not bettered the 
condition of the white people. The progress of vice 
has evidently kept pace with the march of improve- 
ment, if it has not far outstripped it. 

Mr. Frost, in the preface to his Indian Wars, makes 
the following statement as a fact, gathered from In- 
dian history: "Their wars among themselves, in 
which they persist, thin their numbers from year to 
year, and their habits of life are by no means favora- 
ble to an increase of population, or even to the pres- 
ervation of their race. Whole tribes have already 



MISSIONARY LIFE, 413 

disappeared, from causes independent of the hostility 
of the people ; and similar causes now in operation 
threaten their total extermination, even if they should 
suffer no more from the fatal rifle, or the destroying 
influence of intoxicating liquors." He adds, "It is 
hoped that Christian benevolence may yet devise 
some means by which this interesting and brave 
people may be preserved, and become instructed in 
the arts of civilized life." The fact is, the doom of 
the red man was sealed by causes growing wholly out 
of his heathen condition. Contact with the white 
people threw open the gate of knowledge before him, 
and bid him enter. If the knowledge necessary to 
point out the path of virtue, opened up new in- 
centives to vice, it is to be viewed as an accident 
rather than a necessary result. But for the cupidity 
of those whose efforts have been opposed to the be- 
nevolent attempts to elevate the Indian, he would 
have stood far higher to-day than he does in the 
scale of civilization. 

That the Indian's "intellectual and moral elevation 
has been little advanced," compared with the desires 
of the Church, is a painful fact. But we must hesi- 
tate before adopting the following: "At this day it 
can not be said that he stands higher in the scale 
of civilization than when first known by the white 
man." 

If we should throw aside entirely the reports of 
missionaries, as not entitled to credit, any one may 
satisfy himself by consulting the statements of agents 



414 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

and officers of the Government, found in the reports 
of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, that great ad- 
vances have been made among many of these tribes 
in civilization and Christianity. I will not burden 
these pages with extracts which might be made from 
these reports; but against such assertions as the 
above, generally made without proof, I offer the fol- 
lowing statement of a President of the United States, 
Mr. Tyler, in his message of 1842 — Frost's Indian 
Wars, page 284 — "With several of the tribes great 
progress in civilizing them has already been made. 
The schoolmaster and the missionary are found side 
by side, and the remains of what were once numerous 
and powerful nations, may yet be preserved as the 
builders up of a new name for themselves and their 
posterity." 

The argument against the elevation of the Indian, 
from the comparatively few who have been actually 
Christianized, and partially or wholly civilized, may 
be as legitimately opposed to the Christian religion 
in its influence over the nations of the earth. Though 
eighteen hundred years have elapsed since it was first 
introduced, it is confined within narrow limits yet, 
compared with the entire population of the globe. 
" The whole number of Indians within the states and 
territories," says Dr. Durbin, " does not exceed four 
hundred thousand." Admitting that the number of 
Protestant Church members among these does not 
exceed eight or ten thousand in the United States 
and the territories, of which the Methodist Episcopal 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 415 

Church, and the Methodist Episcopal Church South, 
embrace between five and six thousand: compare 
even this number with the whole number of Indians, 
making allowance for the numbers thus Christianized 
who have died annually, in holy triumph, and the re- 
sults tell favorably for the cause; especially when 
we remember that it has not been half a century since 
our first Indian missions were commenced, the formi- 
dable obstacles to be overcome before those missions 
could obtain a firm footing, and the adverse influences 
which have operated since. Hand in hand with this 
Christianizing process, have been the shop, the farm, 
the school, and other means of social, civil, and relig- 
ious elevation. The theorist may conclude that these 
things have not bettered the condition of the Indian, 
but the Indian himself knows to the contrary, and 
testifies to the contrary. Do you say that all this 
forms only the exception to a general rule ? I deny 
the application of this principle here. The world 
was bettered by the introduction of Christianity, be- 
fore a millionth part had actually tested its virtue. 
The civilizing influences of Christianity can not be 
introduced into any barbarous or savage nation, with- 
out conferring a benefit on the whole. All the North 
American Indians are bound together by many ties 
of affinity. Christianity has been introduced among 
them — it is the leaven hid in the meal, and must 
affect, more or less, the entire lump. Its work may 
be slow and gradual, but it must go on and increase. 
The Wesleyan missionaries in Canada have been 



416 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

among the most successful in their missionary efforts 
among the Indians. The flame which first broke out 
among them, extended to the distant shore of Lake 
Superior. The following speeches, published some 
years ago, in the Christian Advocate and Journal, 
show the influence of this work on the Canada In- 
dians, and the sympathy they felt for their distant 
brethren yet without the Gospel. The touching and 
heart-felt response made by the chief at Kewawenon 
to the speech of Yellow Head, shows how much those 
Indians felt their need of the same purifying and 
elevating Gospel: 

SPEECH OF YELLOW HEAD, HEAD CHIEF OF THE CHIP- 
PEWA TKIBE AT LAKE SIMCOE, UPPER CAN- 
ADA, IN BEHALF OF ALL THE 
CANADIAN CHIPPEWAS. 

"TO ALL THE CHIPPEWAS IN THE UNITED STATES 

of America, — my nation! My eldest brother! 
Hear ye what I have to say to you. We have re- 
ceived a great blessing from the Great Spirit. It is 
the word of the Great Spirit which teaches his holy 
religion, and which our forefathers never had. This 
is a good religion for us. I am now old and gray- 
headed, but I find this to be a very good religion. 

"Once I was blind, but the Great Spirit made me 
see when his light shined upon me through the thick 
mist that covered me up. When in this evil state of 
darkness, we had no comfort at all, but were in a most 
wretched condition. We were lying about taverns 
and in the streets, or before the doors in the mud, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 417 

where the white people threw out their dirty slops; 
while our wives and children, living in huts made of 
boughs of trees, were naked, cold, and starving. 
This is the work of the evil spirit, in giving us the 
fire-water to drink, and this is the way he serves his 
children and gives them no happiness. We then 
thought we were living ; but we were all dead in sin ; 
and when we think of what we have been it makes us 
feel miserable. Therefore we speak to you, and tell 
you to take the religion of the Great Spirit. 

" When we embraced this religion it made us happy 
in our hearts, and we were no longer lying drunk in 
the streets, but lived in houses like the white men, 
and our women and children were comfortable and 
happy. We drank no more fire-water, which makes 
men act like fools — like the hogs that live in the mud. 
Hear this, my nation, and take the true religion of 
the Bible, which will make you happy, and drink no 
more fire-water, and let me hear from you then, and 
tell me how you like my words. Now we shake 
hands with you in all our hearts; also with your 
women and children. We love you all much in our 
hearts. This is all I have to say. 

"Me Shukeence." 

SPEECH OF PENASHE, CHIEF AT KEWAWENON, IN 
BEPLY TO THE FOREGOING. 

"I feel truly thankful to hear from our brethren at 

the east, and that they have found the true religion, 

and received a blessing from the Great Spirit. I 

85 



418 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

have taken the wampum which they sent us in my 
hand, and looked at it. It is all white. But the 
string is red, which tells us that the Son of God came 
into the world and spilled his blood. Now we must 
all listen to the words of the Great Spirit. I have 
now given my answer. We shake hands with you all 
in our hearts. This is all I have to say. 

"Penashe Quemezhan Shis Shaanwabetoo." 

The facts in the above speeches speak volumes in 
behalf of the power of the Gospel to elevate the red 
man. Several similar testimonials from individuals 
have been before given in our narrative. 

But it was not my design to enter into a labored 
argument on this point. The brief answer made to 
objections, which have been placed in a strong light, 
must suffice. If the professing Christian has been 
skeptical, let him banish his doubts, and come up 
nobly to his part of this great work. As surely as 
Christ hath tasted death for every man, is it the will 
of God that the Indians should share in the inherit- 
ance of the purchased possession. But this is a 
"work of faith," as well as a "labor of love." These 
missions must, to accomplish their object, live in the 
heart of the Church. They must share in her warm- 
est sympathies and prayers, and receive her liberal 
gifts of men and means, not in proportion to the 
number of converts, but in proportion to the value of 
a single soul savingly enlightened. 

The claims of the Indian upon the Christian sym- 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 419 

pathies of the nation are great beyond measure. 
Christianity makes us the debtor to this people. But, 
added to this, we are the inheritors of their once vast 
forests, broad rivers, and lakes. As a result of the 
contest between the victors and the conquered, many 
of their noblest sons have bathed the ground with 
their blood. Their history is one of aggression of 
the stronger on the domain of the weaker — a history 
of wrong, of cruelty, of blood. It is not here inti- 
mated that our Government has intended to inflict 
wrong upon the Indian tribes. It has, doubtless, 
aimed to adopt a policy which, in the end, would 
elevate the Indian. That the policy adopted was not 
always the best, is what might have been expected of 
erring mortals. Many of the wrongs suffered by the 
Indians have been despite the well-meant aims of the 
Department. But, from whatever source they may 
have arisen, the Indians have been the sufferers, and 
the only recompense we can make them is to give 
them the joy, the undying hope, imnarted by the 
Gospel. 

One other motive should prompt us to duty here; 
that is, the present strait of the Indian. His choice 
is between two alternatives; he must be elevated by 
means of a Christian civilization, or he must become 
extinct at no distant day. His fisheries are monopo- 
lized by others, and his hunting-grounds have been 
mostly destroyed. He can live but little longer by 
the chase. He never can become truly civilized with- 
out the entering wedge of Christianity. The pagan 



420 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

religion is interwoven with all the relations of the 
Indian, and is in direct conflict with civilization. 
This false prop must be removed before he will lean 
upon the true one. Unenlightened and uninfluenced 
by the Gospel, the doom of prophecy hangs, with 
fearful portent, over the Indian tribes: "For the 
nation and kingdom that will not serve thee shall per- 
ish; yea, those nations shall be utterly wasted" Isaiah 

lx-; 12. 

" I beheld, too, in that vision 
All the secrets of the future, 
Of the distant days that shall be. 
I beheld the westward marches 
Of the unknown crowded nations. 
All the land was full of people, 
Restless, struggling, toiling, striving, 
Speaking many tongues, yet feeling 
But one heart beat in their bosoms. 
In the woodland rang their axes, 
Smoked their towns in all the valleys ; 
Over all the lakes and rivers 
Rushed their great canoes of thunder. 
Then a darker, drearier vision 
Passed before me, vague and cloud-like j 
I beheld our nations scattered, 
All forgetful of my counsels, 
Weakened, warring with each other; 
Saw the remnants of our people 
Sweeping westward, wild and woeful, 
Like the cloud-rack of a tempest, 
Like the withered leaves of autumn !" 

Song op Hiawatha. 

Such a song was fitting to be put into the mouth 
of the wisest man that ever was given to the Indian 
tribes. But, looking hopefully into the scheme of 
redemption, we are encouraged by words of wisdom, 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 



421 



such as no fabled oracle has ever uttered : " The 
wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for 
them; and the desert shall rejoice and blossom as 
the rose. It shall blossom abundantly, and rejoice, 
even with joy and singing: the glory of Lebanon 
shall be given unto it, the excellency of Carmel and 
Sharon, they shall see the glory of the Lord, and the 
excellency of our God." 



" Let thrones, and powers, and kingdoms, bo 
Obedient, mighty God, to thee ; 
And over land, and stream, and main, 
Now wave the scepter of thy reign." 



422 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

LAKE SUPERIOR REGION-DESTINY— CONCLUSION. 

This region is an interesting portion of our great 
and growing country. Rich in exhaustless stores of 
mineral wealth, and scarcely less so in its capabilities 
of enriching us- in science and art, it opens a wide 
field for industry and enterprise, as well as for scien- 
tific research. But till recently it has hardly been 
known. The pearly waters of the vast lake, for ages 
on ages, had been shut in by dense woodlands and 
mountain ranges, hardly disturbed, unless by the 
gambols of the finny tribe and the birchen canoe, 
fanned by gentle summer breezes, or lashed to fury 
by the wild sweep of Boreas. But those days are 
numbered. The lake now bears on her broad bosom 
the schooner, with whitened sail, and echoes the puff 
of the steamer as she plows majestically the crested 
billows, bearing the fruits of commercial industry 
and thrift to destined ports. The wilderness, untrav- 
ersed but by the native and the trader, is now dotted 
with cabins of miners. The prowling of wild beasts 
and the savage war-whoop have given way to the wood- 
man's ax and the blast from the miner's shaft, which 
rends the air. The uncultivated forest is here and 
there turned into a garden. Villages begin to line 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 423 

the wild shores and the rugged cliffs, and already the 
vision of crowded cities, with all the moving tides 
of commerce and fortune, begin to flit across the 
imagination as though they were reality. As it re- 
gards the geological structure of Lake Superior and 
the various phenomena laid open by scientific explo- 
ration and research, we must take little notice of 
them here, as not falling within the plan or aim of 
these unpretending pages. Scientific gentlemen, who 
were every way qualified for such a work, have be- 
stowed vast labor and much patient investigation on 
these themes, and the results have been given to the 
world as a rich legacy. These must be consulted by 
such as would study minutely the developments of 
the Lake Superior region. They may be found in 
the able reports of Messrs. Foster and Whitney. In 
looking into the facts here detailed, no one will over- 
look our vast indebtedness to the late lamented Dr. 
Houghton, through whose influence and scientific la- 
bors, more than those of any other person, this re- 
gion was brought into favorable notice. Had he lived 
to consummate his own comprehensive plans, his 
country would have been, greatly enriched by his 
contributions to science; but, mysteriously, he was 
suddenly removed from earth in the midst of his 
achievements and hard-earned fame, and the result 
of much of his labor perished with him. 

Although the first explorations of white men in 
this region are comparatively recent, still we are led 
back nearly two hundred years to the time when 



424 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Jesuit missionaries, some of them learned, talented, 
and refined, and well fitted for any station, traversed 
the Lake Superior region, and became missionaries 
among the Indians. The names of Rene Mesnard, 
Claude Allouez, Claude Dablon, and James Marquette, 
are embalmed in the history of our country as pio- 
neers into that, then especially, inhospitable clime. 

An interesting fact is given us as connected with 
those early explorations ; that is, the evidences of the 
existence of native copper. In several places large 
bowlders of this mineral were found, some of them 
weighing a hundred pounds. This pure virgin cop- 
per was regarded by the Indians with superstitious 
veneration, and some of the specimens preserved by 
them were worshiped as gods. After New France 
had been ceded to the British crown, an Englishman 
by the name of Alexander Henry, who had escaped 
the horrible massacre of Mackinaw, headed a mining 
expedition, which was prosecuted for a time near the 
forks of the Ontonagon river. But the effort was 
ill-directed and soon abandoned. Up to the year 
1844 no successful effort had been made to develop 
the mineral resources of the country. Since that 
period the wonderful discoveries and the untold 
wealth which have been revealed have been published 
to the world. 

In those mining explorations a very interesting 
fact has been brought to light — the works of a rude 
people, who had been engaged in mining, certainly 
not less than four hundred years ago, probably much 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 425 

earlier. Those evidences may be seen on Isle Royal, 
at Eagle river, at the North-West Mine, and other 
places. But the most interesting discoveries of this 
kind were made at the Minnesota Mine, at the Onton- 
agon. Mr. Samuel 0. Knapp, the then intelligent 
agent of the Minnesota Mining Company, in the 
spring of 1848, laid open one of these ancient 
works. The following is an extract from Messrs. 
Foster and Whitney's Reports: "The depression 
was twenty-six feet deep, filled with clay and a 
matted mass of moldering vegetable matter. When 
he had penetrated to the depth of eighteen feet, he 
came to a mass of native copper, ten feet long, three 
feet wide, and nearly two feet thick, and weighing 
over six tuns. On digging around it the mass was 
found to rest on billets of oak, supported by sleepers 
of the same material. This wood, specimens of 
which have been preserved, by its long exposure to 
moisture is dark-colored, and has lost all its con- 
sistency. A knife-blade may be thrust into it as 
easily as into a peat-bog. The earth was so packed 
around the copper as to give it a firm support. The 
ancient miners had evidently raised it about five feet, 
and then abandoned the work as too laborious. They 
had taken off every projecting point which was ac- 
cessible, so that the exposed surface was smooth." 
(Part I, page 159.) 

Proof of the high antiquity of these works is found 
in the fact that trees growing over these works are 

as aged as the forest trees around them. Messrs. 
36 



426 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

Foster and Whitney speak of a pine stump, thus situ- 
ated, "broken fifteen feet from the ground, ten feet 
in circumference, which must have grown, flourished, 
and died since the earth in which it had taken root 
was thrown out." Mr. Knapp counted, say they, 
"three hundred and ninety-five annular rings, on a 
hemlock, growing under similar circumstances, which 
he felled near one of his shafts. Thus it would ap- 
pear, that these explorations were made before Colum- 
bus started on his voyage of discovery." (Ibid.) 

Ancient stone hammers have been found, in large 
quantities, in connection with these works. Those 
taken out of the Minnesota works exceed ten cart- 
loads, and weighed from five to thirty-nine pounds 
each. "A copper gad, with the head much battered, 
and a copper chisel, with a socket for the reception 
of a wooden handle, were brought to light." These 
I saw myself, in the possession of Dr. Hickock, of 
New York, in the summer of 1848. Messrs. Foster 
and Whitney suppose that this ancient mining was 
performed chiefly with these stone hammers, with the 
aid of fire to soften the rock and separate it from 
the copper. 

All is involved in conjecture respecting who were 
those rude miners. The Indians of the country have 
no traditionary accounts of this matter. Our authors, 
quoted above, mention the fact, that copper rings, 
designed for bracelets, are frequently met with in the 
western mounds. And they more than intimate that 
these copper rings are "a strong link in the chain 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 427 

of evidence to connect the ancient mining of this 
region with the earth works of the Mississippi Val- 
ley." (Ibid.) 

But with a simple statement of these facts we must 
leave the reader to his own speculations, respecting 
the people who, long ago, delved into the mines of 
Lake Superior, for hidden treasure. 

The high latitude of Lake Superior is proof that it 
can never be a resort for farming purposes. Fort 
Wilkins is in latitude 47° 27 r . Point Kewenaw is 
less adapted to agriculture than the vicinity of Onton- 
agon or Grand Island. Yet all along the southern 
shore of the lake are immense bodies of rich alluvial 
land, timbered mostly with maple and birch, adapted 
to the growth of most of the staple commodities of 
the farmer. The season is short; but vegetation 
matures with surprising rapidity. The country is 
good for grazing — oats produce abundantly. Per- 
haps in no place can field peas be found to do better. 
"Wheat has never been fairly tested. The only doubt 
is with reference to the deep snows of so long con- 
tinuance. When at Kewawenon, I planted some 
eight-rowed Michigan corn one season, which grew 
thriftily, filled well and matured. But this, perhaps, 
was an exception to a general rule. No great de- 
pendence can be made on corn-growing. The escu- 
lent roots grow most thriftily, and produce abund- 
antly; and they usually possess rare culinary prop- 
erties. Farmers may make their avocation lucrative, 
so far as may be needed to supply the mines. But 



428 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

for general farming purposes, choice must always be 
made of farms where the growing season is longer, 
and the winters less severe. 

The fisheries and pineries must form an important 
item in the commerce of Lake Superior. Now that 
the Ste. Marie's canal, a magnificent national work, 
so long demanded, has connected the great chain of 
lakes, a ready market will always be afforded for fish 
and lumber, as well as other products of the country. 

The Lake Superior region has many natural ad- 
vantages and attractions, to offset against its rugged 
and forbidding features. Its pure and invigorating 
atmosphere, pearly waters, savory fishes, and its pro- 
verbial healthfulness, must make it a chosen resort 
for invalids and a fond home for actual residents. 
The traveler will make it a resort who desires to 
study nature in her loveliest and wildest aspects. 
A view of the rising or setting sun on the wide lake, 
or as his rays kindle the landscape into a picture of 
loveliness, or are thrown in flecks of light against 
the perpendicular walls of sand-rock, which here and 
there form the bold shore, is indescribably beautiful. 
What can exceed, in grandeur, the coruscations of 
light, as seen in the Aurora Borealis, or Northern 
Lights, of a Lake Superior sky? Mirage is often 
seen on the lake in the form of trees, islands, and 
landscapes. These representations are often beauti- 
ful, but by their sudden disappearance show that 
they are but optical illusions. I have often witnessed 
this phenomena on the water, and once on land. On 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 429 

my way to Sandy Lake one season, and when "within 
a few miles of the place, there appeared just ahead 
of us a beautiful little lake. I mistook it at first for 
Sandy Lake. But as we went on it vanished, and 
proved to be an illusion. The extreme length of a 
summer's day is a fact with which all voyagers are 
familiar. In the longest days, when the sky is clear, 
morning begins to dawn at two o'clock, and the light 
of day does not fairly disappear till ten o'clock at 
night. 

In this land, interesting in so many of its features, 
the hardy pioneer has made his home. The wilder- 
ness' is no longer to remain a rugged waste, but is to 
be made tributary to human progress and the wants 
of man. Thus it is yet to answer the design of a 
beneficent Creator. The first settlers were a mixed 
multitude, representing several nations. The miners, 
chiefly English, German, and Irish. Many of the 
agents and managers of the mines, and persons in 
other branches of business, were our own countrymen. 
Many of those hardy and enterprising backwoods- 
men were rough in their appearance as the wild 
scenes around them. The absence of female society 
may account for this in part. But there were other 
reasons which produced carelessness and often reck- 
lessness in personal appearance and manners. In 
many places a company of bachelors, or widowers, 
for the time being, many of whose families were be- 
yond the Atlantic, were huddled together in mining 
cabins and shanties, free from the restraints of civil- 



430 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF 

ized life — every one at liberty to do that which was 
right in his own eyes. The razor was seldom used. 
But it would hardly do to set this down as a relic of 
barbarism, at a time when many devote more atten- 
tion to the development of a mustache than to the 
development of the mind. Red flannel shirts were 
generally worn, and laboring men, when at work, 
even in the coldest weather, seldom wore a coat. 

The long winters afforded great opportunities for 
reading and study. These were well improved by 
some who were quite extensive readers. Many choice 
books were found in the libraries of intelligent min- 
ing agents. But many read little or nothing, and, 
with the majority of readers, the books that were 
eagerly devoured were novels and vapid and trashy 
literature. 

It is not wonderful, that with this state of things a 
generally confessed laxity prevailed in the morals of 
the great mass, that gambling, drunkenness, Sabbath- 
breaking, and kindred vices, found here a fruitful soil, 
on which to grow and thrive. 

But with all that has been in conflict with the real 
progress of the Lake Superior region, recent indica- 
tions foreshadow a proud destiny as at hand. Bound 
now to the great east, by a vast chain of lakes and 
rivers, soon to be connected by railroad to the vast 
west and the far south, instead of being a barbarous 
verge, fringing the outskirts of civilization, it is to 
become the center of eastern and western civilization, 
drawing from the moral and intellectual resources of 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 431 

both, and enriching both, in turn, by the fruits of in- 
dustry and enterprise. Her towns and cities must 
multiply — her population greatly increase, and the 
vast riches of her mines be rendered more and more 
available. 

Thank God, the institutions of the Church have 
already a footing among the people, and we trust a 
firm hold on their generous sympathies. Now is the 
time of planting. The season for fruit-gathering is 
at hand. Our schools and churches are destined yet 
to dot that land — the trees of the forest to "clap 
their hands." " The inhabitants of the rocks " begin 
already to " sing and to shout from the top of the 
mountains." 

The writer may be allowed, in conclusion, to ex- 
press his ardent desire for the continued prosperity 
of this interesting region; and that the institutions 
of the Church, as conducing to this result, may keep 
pace with the progress of the country. His prayer 
is, that enlarged prosperity may attend the missions 
among the Indians and the miners, and that the 
Church may yet have abundant cause of joy, and 
none of regret, at the expense and pains she has 
bestowed on the cultivation of this field. 



THE END. 



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